rear wheel bearing replacement

anyone know anything about the rear wheel bearings on an '00 blazer lt 4x4? i want to check and probly replace them (since they are only $8 each) to see if it cures my vibration problem, but i dont know how much is involved and the haynes doesnt help much. what all exactly do i need to disassemble? is it simply removing the rotors and replacing the bearings like normal, or something more complicated?? any and all help would be appreciated, there was another guy here who said his rear bearings were the cause of his vibration that was just exactly as mine is, but he hasnt been here in a while so i need your help. thanks!!!!!

Jack the back of the car up... Remove wheels. Remove calipers (leave hose attach and move them off to the side) remove the discs.. Put a drain pan under the pumpkin... Loosen the bolts on the diff cover starting with the bottom and work your way out... let fluid drain.... Remove cover completely... Remove the main pin bolt (8mm, USE A 6 POINT NOT A 12 POINT box wrench) Pull pin... Now push an axel in slightly. Pull the c-clip and put it somewhere clean. Pull the axel out SLOWLY... You can now inspect the axel bearing on that side... If need to be replace, pull the old bearing using a seal puller, install the new bearing by lightly tapping it into place with a socket on top of it... Do the same for the other side... Spray the inside of the diff with a full can of brake klean... Scrape ALL of the old gasket off of the diff cover, put new gasket in, put cover on, hand crank on the bolts in a cross fasion... Hand tight only! Put calipers, disc, wheels back on..

Besides removing the rear rotors, the axle itself will have to be removed.

Remove the differential cover. Remove the pinion shaft locking bolt in carrier (5/16 head). Remove the pinion shaft. Remove the lock (horse shoe shaped) from the button end of the axle shaft. Remove the axle shaft from the housing. Now you can remove the axle shaft seal and the bearing from the axle housing. The bearing is pressed into the housing, so you will need a slide hammer to remove.

Besides removing the rear rotors, the axle itself will have to be removed.

Remove the differential cover. Remove the pinion shaft locking bolt in carrier (5/16 head). Remove the pinion shaft. Remove the lock (horse shoe shaped) from the button end of the axle shaft. Remove the axle shaft from the housing. Now you can remove the axle shaft seal and the bearing from the axle housing. The bearing is pressed into the housing, so you will need a slide hammer to remove.

Umm, didn't I say that?

Umm, didn't I say that?

Sorry, slow fingers :comprage1

Sorry, slow fingers :comprage1

LOL

Before changing the bearings, I would check to see if the rear rotors are warped.

the rear rotors are brand new

Did the vibration occur before the swap.

Also, just because rotors are new doesn't not mean they are warped.

what swap

anybody know where i can find the axle code for my truck? autozone says there are 2 different ones, a "chevrolet buffalo" (code c) axle and a "mckinnon" axle (code k), but they dont know where to find the code. ay ideas? this code is required for me to get the 2 new rear wheel bearings. thanks.

what swap

The new rotor installation.

yes, replacing the rotors was another attempt at stopping the vibration

The code is usually stamped on top of the axle tube on the passenger side. They're small (about 3/8"), sometimes stamped very lightly. With all the dirt and rust buildup, it's usually hard to find. At that price, I would just pick up all four and return the two I didn't need.
Usually bad bearings will make a noise a long time before they start causing a vibration. Before you get involved with the bearings, I would make all the basic checks such as the tire balance, u-joints, bent rim, shifted tire belt, or bent axle. Run the vehicle up on jack stands and see where the vibration is coming from. Does it start and get worse or come in at one speed and then go away at a higher speed?

well, changing the driveshaft did make a little bit of a difference actually! the vibration is still there, just not as pronounced. its somewhat more tolerable now, but i still know its there and want to get rid of it once and for all.
i really dont think its bearings either, and have already replaced u joints, replaced driveshaft, and rotated and balanced tires. i am actually going to re-balance the tires again because it appears i have lost a weight already on a front tire, gotta love upstate ny potholes!
the vibration does start at 45mph, and as i go faster it gets less audible, but between 55 and 65mph i can feel it in the steering wheel too which is strange as well. but after 70mph it all seems to go away and its quiet.
rims are all fine too, and i dont know how to check for a bent axle. also how do i check for a shifted tire belt?? they are fairly new tires, but i will still check them if i know how.
and also i did run the truck up on jackstands to see where the vibe is coming from, found that its more noticeable with the tires on and the wheels spinning at 50mph than with the tires off and just the axle and rotors spinning.
ill keep feeding you details and you keep feeding me ideas so i can gradually eliminate every possible problem area here, thanks so much for the input thus far!

From what you're describing, it sounds like a balance problem. The vibration in the steering wheel would be the front tires while the vibration in the seat would be the rear. Are you getting the tires spin balanced? When you get the tires balanced again, if you can, watch and see if you have a wobble in one or more of the tires. You might have two problems. If all else fails, try to swap wheels and tires with someone else for a test drive.

ok so the drivetrain cant possibly vibrate the steering wheel then? it feels like a really high speed vibration in the steering wheel, could that be a bearing? cuz i really dont feel it in my butt anymore, im definitely going to get the tires balanced and rotated and if it still does it i will get new tires. :( any recommendations on a good brand thats cheap? also, i thought all the shops did spin balancing... dont they? its this computerized thing that spins the tires from what i can see... i have them done at wal mart cuz they do a great job. thanks!!!

At this point what you should do is to take it over to the dealer and pay for a 1/2 hour diagnostic (about 30 bux). You keep throwing more and more parts at this thing without succsess.

Have you checked the engine and transmission mounts yet?

what can i do to check them? im not really sure where they are located

what can i do to check them? im not really sure where they are located

Where the engine and transmission mount on the frame.

Actually it's a single transmission mount... the mount pad is on the cross member going underneath the tranny.

Actually it's a single transmission mount... the mount bad is on the cross member going underneath the tranny.

Yes, that could cause the vibration.

Could be a broken belt in a tire...I had the samething happen to another car i owned and it was a single broken blet in the tire..

well believe it or not it was my drivers side engine mount! after 6 garages and 2 dealerships, the last dealership was awesome and they guy knew what he was looking for and he found it and the truck rides like new. thanks for all the help!!

well believe it or not it was my drivers side engine mount! after 6 garages and 2 dealerships, the last dealership was awesome and they guy knew what he was looking for and he found it and the truck rides like new. thanks for all the help!!

yea well vibration is back, and its now a bad humming between 65 and 75mph. i get to 43mph and i can hear the "resonating" throughout the truck, the 50mph comes and i feel it in the wheel and just gets worse up to 75mph, which is as high as i have gone, and at those speeds it feels like i am getting a massage through the steering wheel, thats how high speed the vibration is. the 65-75mph humming is bad though, im concerned now that something is really wrong. i never did get to replace that passenger side engine mount when i got the drivers side mount done, maybe both mounts are bad again? any ideas here? i am really tired of paying on this truck every month and it still not being right... i always thought blazers werent supposed to ride like shit all the time, especially a 2000 with less than 100,000 miles on it!

Check to see that the bolts on the new motor mount didn't come loose...Did you put them in or did a mechanic?

Check to see that the bolts on the new motor mount didn't come loose...Did you put them in or did a mechanic?
the mount was installed by a gm tech at the dealership.

I would take it back then and have them check it again under warranty. That way it won't cost you anything.

i didnt know i had a warranty...

i didnt know i had a warranty...

If they put it in they have to warranty it for a year