tapping sound

I have a 1996 chevy blazer LS with 97k miles. Yesterday, when I started it up, it made a tapping sound. when i stepped on gas, the tapping got quicker, as the revolutions increased. Took it to a shop and they said forst it was timing belt...then it was oil pump...then they wanted to change the oil, and ended up just changing oil and telling me there was metal shavings in the oil. the screen on the oil pan had a bunch of junk, and they tried blowing it out and cleaning it up to sto prestricting the flow of oil. Then gave it back to me and said they didnt want to do the oil pump since it appeared there was engine problem inside.
Mentioned selling a jasper rebuilt motor for over 4k dollars.
I just had this truck since october, and changed oil every 2500 miles. Someone said the s10 type engines usually blow around 100k and they arent very strong or lasting.
Anyone have any similiar problems? Im taking to another mechanic tomorrow. wanted to know if anyone has any comments or suggestions.
thanks.

1st off, I doubt he pulled the oil pan off.. You basically have to remove the entire engine to drop the pan..(that includes disconnecting it from the transmission) So I think he may be handing you a load of shit... I would take it to another garage and get their take on it... These engines can last 150-200k easily... They're a very hardy engine if taken care of. It may be nothing more than a sticking or collaped lifter.

Yip, go to a different mechanic, that guy is full of crap.

So you changed the oil and the sound has gone away?

I have a 1996 chevy blazer LS with 97k miles. Yesterday, when I started it up, it made a tapping sound. when i stepped on gas, the tapping got quicker, as the revolutions increased. Took it to a shop and they said forst it was timing belt...then it was oil pump...then they wanted to change the oil, and ended up just changing oil and telling me there was metal shavings in the oil. the screen on the oil pan had a bunch of junk, and they tried blowing it out and cleaning it up to sto prestricting the flow of oil. Then gave it back to me and said they didnt want to do the oil pump since it appeared there was engine problem inside.
Mentioned selling a jasper rebuilt motor for over 4k dollars.
I just had this truck since october, and changed oil every 2500 miles. Someone said the s10 type engines usually blow around 100k and they arent very strong or lasting.
Anyone have any similiar problems? Im taking to another mechanic tomorrow. wanted to know if anyone has any comments or suggestions.
thanks.

Your "MECHANIC" is feeding you a line of crap! I wouldn't believe the crap about the shavings in the oil, or the removal of the oil pan unless you know that they pulled the motor. How long did they have the truck?

I had the same basic problem with a loud lifter knock, here is what I did and my problem is solved. If you try it, you have nothing to loose. Even if you do have the internal problems (which I doubt) this procedure shouldn't make it any worse.

Buy the "Gunk" brand engine cleaner and the cheapest 5W-30 oil on the shelf. Drain the oil and install a new (Cheap) filter and add the new cheap oil and the Gunk flush being carefull not to overfill the system. Start and run the engine 30 minutes AT IDLE. Drain the the system again and dump a 1/2 qt. of castrol GTX 5W-30 to flush any remaining cheap oil/flush out. Install the oil pan drain plug, then fill the system with Castrol 5W-30 and a brand new AC-Delco Filter. You should not have any more lifter noise.

They had the truck roughly a couple hours. I just got back from dropping it off to another mechanic that had same impression stated here...these engines are reliable and pretty tough. Only downside is I dont know how reliable prior owner was in maintenance on the vehicle. It ran really well for last few months.
The oil pressure guage drops between 20 and 40 at idle, and barely hits 60 when on highway. Old mechanic said this was not good leading him to oil pan screen being clogged.
the lifter idea sounds pretty reasonable. Ill find out more in the am from new mechanic and give an update here. Thanks very much for the help and pointers.

At operating temp your oil pressure sounds perfect... As long as you don't drop below 7psi you will be fine. but 20-25 at idle is good with it jumping to 40 or so on acceleration.... So you're all good on that front.

Yip, go to a different mechanic, that guy is full of crap.

So you changed the oil and the sound has gone away?


Oil was said to have been changed at first mechanic shop, but sound is definitely still there. Took to new mechanic shop and left there to be looked at in am. Im going to call and see if he mentions anything bout lifters in am. Ill give an update tomorrow when I hear from him. Have a great evening.

At this point I wouldn't believe the oil was changed. That as an aside, they need to use a stethescope (sic?) and see if the can pinpoint the noise.

Oil was said to have been changed at first mechanic shop, but sound is definitely still there. Took to new mechanic shop and left there to be looked at in am. Im going to call and see if he mentions anything bout lifters in am. Ill give an update tomorrow when I hear from him. Have a great evening.

When I flushed my engine as I previously described, it cost me approx. $25.00 USD total for both of the filters, all of the oil, and the flush. Don't get ripped off! If they come back with much more than the price of an oil change, it is just plain wrong.

They had the truck roughly a couple hours. I just got back from dropping it off to another mechanic that had same impression stated here...these engines are reliable and pretty tough. Only downside is I dont know how reliable prior owner was in maintenance on the vehicle. It ran really well for last few months.
The oil pressure guage drops between 20 and 40 at idle, and barely hits 60 when on highway. Old mechanic said this was not good leading him to oil pan screen being clogged.
the lifter idea sounds pretty reasonable. Ill find out more in the am from new mechanic and give an update here. Thanks very much for the help and pointers.

Your mechanic is a moron.

Do yourself a favor and STOP going to him. You are getting fed a line of bullshit a mile long.

Those are perfectly normal oil pressure values.

Do yourself a favor and do an engine flush.

If you keep on going back to the same ifiot mechanic, I am checking myself out of this thread. I don't have the time to constantly explain how much bullshit the guy is giving to you.

I did not go back to the same mechanic. I brought the truck to another shop, and they took valve cover off, and said there is a ton of sludge in there. Said the prior owner must not have ever changed oil its that bad.
Suggested new motor, as even if they tried flushing engine, there would stil be a great deal of sludge inside.
Trans oil is dark, and not red, and they say the truck wasnt maintained at all. They wouldnt want to do anything with it. suggested getting new or rebuilt motor.
Tapping is still there. A co worker said if I got it on highway, it might blow whatever is clogging lifter out. 2nd mechanic said it could be worth a shot. worse that could happen is it blows, which appears to be not far from anyway. I just need to get another thousand or two miles which should give me time to save up for new motor. Any suggestions?




Your mechanic is a moron.

Do yourself a favor and STOP going to him. You are getting fed a line of bullshit a mile long.

Those are perfectly normal oil pressure values.

Do yourself a favor and do an engine flush.

If you keep on going back to the same ifiot mechanic, I am checking myself out of this thread. I don't have the time to constantly explain how much bullshit the guy is giving to you.

just my 2 cents, but I'm willing to bet a good full tranny flush at a respectable shop will fix the tranny from being abused any more. As far as the engine, AutoRx would probably be a good solution and will more than likely solve your problems. It doesn't sound like your Blazer is in that bad of shape, just needs a little TLC and to be cleaned up. Bet you could spend less than $200-$300 dollars all the way around for getting the tranny flushed and doing an AutoRx engine flush yourself. And that's a hell of alot less than $2-$4 grand for a Jasper "quality" engine.

It's probably just lifter knock. Does it stop when you're warmed up?

Replace the tranny fluid.
Do an engine oil flush and you're set.

I'd follow with Rick says about the flush....at least try and flush out the oil galley's ...may require more than one treatment, but figure that it's never been done and all you can do is improve your situation.

Additionally, I'd change every fluid in your truck, coolant, diff's , transfer case, tranny and start with a fresh load....

Far as comments made about these motor not lasting long...that's a crock....there are folks on this forum who have taken care and feeding of the motor and have over 200K on the motor...

I have a 99 with 159,000 on it and runs like a champ .......

It is a major deal to drop the pan in these as stated above, and I'd say that what your former mechanic said was bull shit.....

If you like the truck, which is sounds like you do, try going over it and changing all these fluids and get a fresh start....

Too bad the previous owner didn't take as much care as you want to....

I'd flush that motor out BEFORE I put the 'pedal-to-da-metal' as lubrication is important........

I bought an 1989 S-10 Blazer with 100,000 miles on it and sold it when it had 196,000 miles and it was still running strong when I sold it. (Went out and bought my 2000 Jimmy.)

I have actual owned 4 different S-10/Jimmy trucks and wouldn't want any other vehicle. Don't believe for a minute that these trucks have anything but tough good long running engines.

Do the flush like I recommended earlier and see if that helps you. It is worth the $25 to see. If we save you $4000. we'll all be glad to spit it with you!

Far as comments made about these motor not lasting long...that's a crock....there are folks on this forum who have taken care and feeding of the motor and have over 200K on the motor...


Yeah, what about that guy that "went only 318k" before his engine blew? LOL!

Yeah, what about that guy that "went only 318k" before his engine blew? LOL!

He deleted that thread I sent BlazerLT a PM and asked him to bring it back....we'll see. :)

He deleted that thread I sent BlazerLT a PM and asked him to bring it back....we'll see. :)

Too bad, it was sorta funny. The thread kept lingering on and wouldn't die, but it was fun like that.

Wow! A sludged up motor means you should replace the engine?

WTF is up with the mechanics in that area?

1.) Do a transmission flush and a tranny filter replacement ASAP.

2.) Do an engine flush.

My 99 Jimmy with 78,000 miles has the ticking noise on startup also, I have fresh oil and a Napa Gold filter.
I find that when I let the fuel Pump prime for the few seconds before I start, it does not tick.
I do have a stethoscope and the noise is coming from the intake manifold...the black plastic ontop.
Both valve covers are silent with the scope, I pecked around different areas of the engine and the only ticking noise is intake.
I just finished a tank of Prestone injector cleaner, but did not change anything. The noise does go away after reaching normal temps and its intermittent. My gas mileage is normal. I might have a slight coolant leak from the intake also.
Could it be a bad Injector?
Thanks
David

Check/replace tensioner assembly/tensioner pulley. Had one with a bad bearing in it that sounded like a bad/sticking valve. Since you hear it around the top of the engine with your stethescope - probe around the tensioner's body. If it gets louder there, chances are it is a bearing in the pulley if the tensioner arm is not smacking and flopping back and forth like a rag doll.

I will at the the tensioner, It did look like it was wiggling somewhat but I did not scope it. Will check it today.
Thanks

My 99 Jimmy with 78,000 miles has the ticking noise on startup also, I have fresh oil and a Napa Gold filter.
I find that when I let the fuel Pump prime for the few seconds before I start, it does not tick.
I do have a stethoscope and the noise is coming from the intake manifold...the black plastic ontop.
Both valve covers are silent with the scope, I pecked around different areas of the engine and the only ticking noise is intake.
I just finished a tank of Prestone injector cleaner, but did not change anything. The noise does go away after reaching normal temps and its intermittent. My gas mileage is normal. I might have a slight coolant leak from the intake also.
Could it be a bad Injector?
Thanks
David

That is the injector assembly clicking.

You might want to replace your fuel filter ASAP.

Sounds like it is not getting fuel it wants.

Even though this has been advised already don't let those "mechanics" c talk you into a new motor / transmission. 97K is not that much on a transmission, even if it never been serviced. Have the pan dropped, new filter, cleaned, and have it flushed. Will be fine. Flush the engine, then run with a 5-30 oil, and maybe change again at 2000 miles or so, if it was really that bad. Heck, even if you still have a clacking lifter get it replaced when you can find someone you can trust to fix it. I have only owned one vehicle that had been so poorly taken care of prior that it required a motor rebuild, and if yours runs Ok, oil pressure OK you probably could drive it for a long time as is. Most vehicles I have ever owned had over 100,000 miles on them when I got them. Bring all the stuff up to date, PCV valve, fuel filter, air filter, trans filter,fluids, belts, hoses and most likely you will be fine. If the oil pressure is bad then maybe I would worry a bit but don't rush into a new motor.

When I change the fuel filter should I reset the computer also?

Thanks

Wouldn't hurt.

I changed the fuel filter and the ticking is still there.
The tensioner/pully is making some noise with the stethoscope and it does shake like its nervous, but its not the ticking sound.
Hate to change parts for no reason.

David

fuel filter should have been changed anyways so don't think it was a wasteful replacement.

my jimmys got 350000 km on it and it runs great.Keep cooling system in good shap and this trucks run fine

ive got a 86 jimmy with 420,000 km on it and runs like a top..
but i just bought a 90' blazer 4x4 for $50cdn the body is great.. came with an alpine deck, and a 6disc changer. only problem is after again 400,000 + km on this one i have heavy knocking from both top and bottom ends of the engine.. i did the engine flush and all that but notta..
its a 4.3l and im looking at just replacing this one, when i drained the oil after i brought it home the guy b4 me had just kept adding oil.. was over 10L of oil in it... anyways.. if anyone has any other ideas on what to do or if you have a cheap engine please msg me.. thanks

Change the PCV valve.

Change the PCV valve.
what effect does this have on it? i hope it works :)

probably ruined it.

do you think this will help my engine at all???
or do i still need a new one / rebuild

do you think this will help my engine at all???
or do i still need a new one / rebuild

First off, can you post a sound clip of this knock?

Also, what and filter are you using?

First off, can you post a sound clip of this knock?

Also, what and filter are you using?

i can try to get a sound clip.. oil is pennzoil 15w40 fram double gaurd
i just changed the pcv valve.. $6.51cdn its a fram pcv valve.. the old one was messed bad.. almost completly caked.. the sound is almost like a rod hitting the valve cover.. im gonna check under the vlave cover when i get it off.. the sound depleted alot once the pcv valve was changed.. but not gone.. maybe a tappit..
again tho.. sounds like there is a knocking near the exhaust manifold.. but no echo's ta the end of the exhaust.. i was just looking around for any noises. when i hit the accelerator, it knocks louder, and faster obviously (rpms)
thanks a bunch so far

i can try to get a sound clip.. oil is pennzoil 15w40 fram double gaurd
i just changed the pcv valve.. $6.51cdn its a fram pcv valve.. the old one was messed bad.. almost completly caked.. the sound is almost like a rod hitting the valve cover.. im gonna check under the vlave cover when i get it off.. the sound depleted alot once the pcv valve was changed.. but not gone.. maybe a tappit..
again tho.. sounds like there is a knocking near the exhaust manifold.. but no echo's ta the end of the exhaust.. i was just looking around for any noises. when i hit the accelerator, it knocks louder, and faster obviously (rpms)
thanks a bunch so far


You should stay away from fram double guard filters, I think they're the ones with teflon additive :(

You're oil may be the problem too, I would stick with 5w30

I get a slight tap that I think may be my injectors. It sounds like an electrical pulse and I think it's coming from the top of my intake manifold behind the intake bonnet.

i put the thick stuff in to do the flush, then added an engine treatment to it.. i still think it may be the main bearing.. either way.. i hope i can fix it

i put the thick stuff in to do the flush, then added an engine treatment to it.. i still think it may be the main bearing.. either way.. i hope i can fix it

#1: Learn to use the proper grade of oil. 5w30 ONLY I have no clue wh you somehow thought that 15w40 belonged in our engine.

#2: Fram filters are garbage. Go to canadian tire and get the new white quaker state ones and install it.

#3 I HOPE YOU ARE NOT RUNNING WITH THE FLUSH IN IT!!!!!!

#4 What additive did you add?

15-40 in the winter time in canada...you would be lucky if that oil thinned out enough to get through the engine. For sure get to either 5-30 or (what I use),10-30. I prefer 10-30 because your engine is a little older and many kms on it. Whats your oil pressure? If your mains are loose or knocking, you'll loose some prssure. How about compression, are all cylinders ok and somewhat even compression? Also check the return line for the PCV system that goes from the valve cover to the back of the TBI unit. If your PCV valve was bad, chances are that plastic line is restriced of clogged, causing problems. With 400+ on that 4.3, chances are its time for a rebuilt or a good used engine.

15-40 in the winter time in canada...you would be lucky if that oil thinned out enough to get through the engine. For sure get to either 5-30 or (what I use),10-30. I prefer 10-30 because your engine is a little older and many kms on it. Whats your oil pressure? If your mains are loose or knocking, you'll loose some prssure. How about compression, are all cylinders ok and somewhat even compression? Also check the return line for the PCV system that goes from the valve cover to the back of the TBI unit. If your PCV valve was bad, chances are that plastic line is restriced of clogged, causing problems. With 400+ on that 4.3, chances are its time for a rebuilt or a good used engine.

Your understanding of oil is also flawed.

10w30 is the same grade as 5w30 at operating temperature.

The only difference is that 5w30 is thinner when cold and pumps easier.

15-40 in the winter time in canada...you would be lucky if that oil thinned out enough to get through the engine. For sure get to either 5-30 or (what I use),10-30. I prefer 10-30 because your engine is a little older and many kms on it.

If he's in Canada he could probably even go 0w30 in the wintertime. I know it's March, but if you're in Canada you have a couple months of it left anyways.
I'd just run 5w30.

i can try to get a sound clip.. oil is pennzoil 15w40 fram double gaurd
i just changed the pcv valve.. $6.51cdn its a fram pcv valve.. the old one was messed bad.. almost completly caked.. the sound is almost like a rod hitting the valve cover.. im gonna check under the vlave cover when i get it off.. the sound depleted alot once the pcv valve was changed.. but not gone.. maybe a tappit..
again tho.. sounds like there is a knocking near the exhaust manifold.. but no echo's ta the end of the exhaust.. i was just looking around for any noises. when i hit the accelerator, it knocks louder, and faster obviously (rpms)
thanks a bunch so far

OMGWTFBBQ!!!!11one?!
:eek2:

Duuuuuude. If you have an owner's manual, start reading. It states clearly what type of oil to put in your machine. And listen to the other guys, especially BlazerLT, he's said more than enough on the matter already. Unbelievable...

Your understanding of oil is also flawed.

10w30 is the same grade as 5w30 at operating temperature.

The only difference is that 5w30 is thinner when cold and pumps easier.

Why is it flawed? 10-30 is not the same as 5-30. The difference you said in that 5-30(which is totally true) pumps faster because is thinnner totally proves my point....not the same. Oil does not always stay heated at one single temperature all the time as does the cooling system. Oil tempatures change with engine speed/load. The harder the engine is working the hotter/thinner the oil gets until its reaches its operating temp which then both weights of oil are about the same(30 weight). This has to do with viscosity imrovers etc, and yes synthetics are different(better). Heavier oils provide more bearing film(oil between the metal parts). So if we can keep more film between the bearings at cooler and about the same in hotter operating tempatures, you are already doing better for the engine. Since most engine wear occurs at startup, the thinner oil (5-30) will get to all the engine parts faster, having less wear. With an older engine with many well broken in miles, you have more bearing clearence, giving the 10-30 more space(so to speak) to get through the engine. With more space in the bearings, you want as much oil film as possible between engine parts. That is why I use synthetic 10-30 in both my trucks. If I had a new truck, with anything less than 100,000 kms, I would without a question use the 5-30. The clearences would be tighter. This is not "flawed" thinking, its information I have gathered both through personal experience and through actual research in this area. I am not preaching on anyone as to whats better, nor am I preaching "flawed" information, just the facts.

i have a 95 that used to have a tap and now a knock. when i used standard motor or not syn it had a loud valve tap on sart up and until the enginge was warmed up completly it would be there. i switched to syn and the valve tap is almost complely gone. you have to be listening for it and be close to the #1 head the hear it. but other then that its gone. the only thing is that after driving it for about 2,000 miles. i noticed it started to get a knock to it. its really loud in the winter and sounds like its going to blow a rod but after about 30 seconds its gone for the most part but you can still hear it a little but after its warmed up you can't hear it. i thionk this is what you might be hearing. i have a 98 pick up with the 4.3 with 133,000 highway miles and it does it. i know another person who has a 95 blazer and theres also knocks. i talked to a friend of mine who works in a shop and he said not to worry about itsince you don't know if you'll get 10 miles out of it or 50,000 miles. you just don't know. so know i'm just waiting for it to die and then do a complete rebuild myself.



P.S. no oil shaveings. i think it might just be one of the rods hitting the crank and once oil gets in between it makes quites it and when it warms up the rod expands and fills in the gap.

i ment that i did the flush with the thicker stuff (my mechanic friend sed it was better) and drained it and used 5w30 after.. i went back to check the receipts, i just went out and bought a hanes manual for this.. only $21.00cdn the oil pressure is a little bit lower then normal, but still in the green. aswell, when i took off the valve cover i found a bit of crap in it.. not metal. i want to drop the oilpan and see how things look from below oh yea.. i tightend the top end.. no more ticking there.. but still a knocking... i really think its time to buy a new motor lol...btw.. i bought this truck for $50.00cdn
www.cardomain.com/id/604jimmy look at the black one

i have a 95 that used to have a tap and now a knock. when i used standard motor or not syn it had a loud valve tap on sart up and until the enginge was warmed up completly it would be there. i switched to syn and the valve tap is almost complely gone. you have to be listening for it and be close to the #1 head the hear it. but other then that its gone. the only thing is that after driving it for about 2,000 miles. i noticed it started to get a knock to it. its really loud in the winter and sounds like its going to blow a rod but after about 30 seconds its gone for the most part but you can still hear it a little but after its warmed up you can't hear it. i thionk this is what you might be hearing. i have a 98 pick up with the 4.3 with 133,000 highway miles and it does it. i know another person who has a 95 blazer and theres also knocks. i talked to a friend of mine who works in a shop and he said not to worry about itsince you don't know if you'll get 10 miles out of it or 50,000 miles. you just don't know. so know i'm just waiting for it to die and then do a complete rebuild myself.



P.S. no oil shaveings. i think it might just be one of the rods hitting the crank and once oil gets in between it makes quites it and when it warms up the rod expands and fills in the gap.

No offense Bro, but that's just plain Wrong. If you read my thread on Loud lifter knock, it tells you how to properly do a crank case flush, and your tapping noise will go away.

Waiting for the Engine to die instead of doing proper maintenance is just plain stupid. :screwy:

It cost me less than $25 USD to do a proper Crank Case Flush. I did it at home in under an hour. If you like, I'll post the procedure again.

Why is it flawed? 10-30 is not the same as 5-30. The difference you said in that 5-30(which is totally true) pumps faster because is thinnner totally proves my point....not the same. Oil does not always stay heated at one single temperature all the time as does the cooling system. Oil tempatures change with engine speed/load. The harder the engine is working the hotter/thinner the oil gets until its reaches its operating temp which then both weights of oil are about the same(30 weight). This has to do with viscosity imrovers etc, and yes synthetics are different(better). Heavier oils provide more bearing film(oil between the metal parts). So if we can keep more film between the bearings at cooler and about the same in hotter operating tempatures, you are already doing better for the engine. Since most engine wear occurs at startup, the thinner oil (5-30) will get to all the engine parts faster, having less wear. With an older engine with many well broken in miles, you have more bearing clearence, giving the 10-30 more space(so to speak) to get through the engine. With more space in the bearings, you want as much oil film as possible between engine parts. That is why I use synthetic 10-30 in both my trucks. If I had a new truck, with anything less than 100,000 kms, I would without a question use the 5-30. The clearences would be tighter. This is not "flawed" thinking, its information I have gathered both through personal experience and through actual research in this area. I am not preaching on anyone as to whats better, nor am I preaching "flawed" information, just the facts.

You said that because the engine is older, he should use 10w30, why is that?

Because of bearing clearences. Engines - no matter what you do to it- will wear, it can't be avoided. As they wear, the clearences get wider, and thats were thicker oil comes into play. Since thicker oil can provide more oil film between parts, it can do this while keeping a better pressure, because of its resistance to flow, when compared to thinner oils. More oil film between engine bearings, and rod bearings for instance, means a better chance of reducing engine noise and less wear. Why do you think he used 15-40 in the first place. But, as everyone knows, the downside to thicker oil is at startup when its cold, it takes longer to get to important engine parts. 10-30 though in my opinion is an alright trade off between start-ups, and long term use. More oil film between bearings also provides a wider operating range (higher,longer high rpm or highway use), especially in high perfornmace engines. Its a factory fill for Corvettes, Vipers, and a few other vehicles.

So you are saying 15w40 will get into the bearsing and protect better right?

So you are saying 15w40 will get into the bearsing and protect better right?

No not really, what I am saying is that thicker oil will protect better, but there are limitations of course.

No not really, what I am saying is that thicker oil will protect better, but there are limitations of course.

Yes, and those limitations are lower pump rates and starving the top end for oil at startup.

Our engines are made for 5w30 or even 10w30 pending how cold it is.

15w40 will not flow as well and seeing 80% of engine wear comes at startup, that is where I would like to have my protection.

Now, if you wanted a slightly thicker oil. I would go to a 5w40 or even a 0w40 where there will be perfect startup protection and excellent protection when at operating speed.

i talked to a friend of mine whos been working on cars for about 30 years and he said that whats coming from mine is piston slap. nothing to worry about and it can go on for years.if it goes away once its hot.

i talked to a friend of mine whos been working on cars for about 30 years and he said that whats coming from mine is piston slap. nothing to worry about and it can go on for years.if it goes away once its hot.

4.3L don't have a piston slap problem.

why not? it sounds alot like it and i'm not getting any metal shavings when i drain the oil.

why not? it sounds alot like it and i'm not getting any metal shavings when i drain the oil.

listen, post a sound clip of this noise.

i have a 95 that used to have a tap and now a knock. when i used standard motor or not syn it had a loud valve tap on sart up and until the enginge was warmed up completly it would be there. i switched to syn and the valve tap is almost complely gone. you have to be listening for it and be close to the #1 head the hear it. but other then that its gone. the only thing is that after driving it for about 2,000 miles. i noticed it started to get a knock to it. its really loud in the winter and sounds like its going to blow a rod but after about 30 seconds its gone for the most part but you can still hear it a little but after its warmed up you can't hear it. i thionk this is what you might be hearing. i have a 98 pick up with the 4.3 with 133,000 highway miles and it does it. i know another person who has a 95 blazer and theres also knocks. i talked to a friend of mine who works in a shop and he said not to worry about itsince you don't know if you'll get 10 miles out of it or 50,000 miles. you just don't know. so know i'm just waiting for it to die and then do a complete rebuild myself.



P.S. no oil shaveings. i think it might just be one of the rods hitting the crank and once oil gets in between it makes quites it and when it warms up the rod expands and fills in the gap.

What kind of oil filter do you use?

i'll try but know if i can. i'm using a wick right now but i had a hastings on it before the auto parts store by me stoped selling them.

If you mean WIX they're real good. I just wanted to make sure it wasn't a FRAM, they cause all kinds of noise at start-up. It has been preached on this site so much most people already know, though.

dum d dum... guess ill have to get rid of my fram.. lol.. im gonna strip the engine down and try for a rebuild myself.. wish me luck lol