1994 S10 4X4 will not start

When I came home yesterday, I came in the house for a few things. When I came back out, and tried to start the blazer it wouldnt start.

The lights, instrament panel, door buzzer, etc all work.

When I turn the key, I don't even hear the starter "click" or even try to turn. Nor to I hear any noise in the engine compartment when I turn the key.

I have checked all the fuses, battery connections...but I am stumped.

Does anyone have any ideas?

Thanks,
Skeeter6755

Sounds like a bad starter relay....

check your battery voltage with a voltmeter.

if the battery was weak....the starter would still be clicking

if the battery was weak....the starter would still be clicking

Please don't start correcting me.

I know what I am talking about.

lol ok sorry....i was just giving my input from past experience :-p....no hard feelings. :-D

check your battery voltage with a voltmeter.


I went ahead and checked the voltage. It is at 12 volts.

Another note: When I tunred the key on/off multiple times, I did manage to hear the starter click once. Now I am thinking the ignition switch.

If it is, I see a lot of threads on the "1997 ignition switch". Is this procedure going to be similar for my year?

Thanks

Check your starter relay first....

When you turn the key to start do all the lights fade out or stay bright?

If they stay bright, before I went through the trouble of changing the switch, I would have the starter tested, it sounds like the solenoid went out. If you turn the key to start rapidly a few times you may be able to get it to start.

When you turn the key to start do all the lights fade out or stay bright?

If they stay bright, before I went through the trouble of changing the switch, I would have the starter tested, it sounds like the solenoid went out. If you turn the key to start rapidly a few times you may be able to get it to start.


Yeah they stay bright. Sounds like the solenoid went out. I guess I have my time set out for me.

Thanks for the info

**EDIT**

The solenoid is part of the starter, so if it is bad the starter will have to be replaced.

A bad ignition switch, bad solenoid (on the starter), or a loose wire would cause your symptoms, you can put a volt meter on the solenoid and have someone turn the key if you get 12v then the starter is the most likely candidate, but before buy or replace anything you should have the starter tested. Most parts stores will do this for free, but you have to take it off and take it to them.

**EDIT**

The solenoid is part of the starter, so if it is bad the starter will have to be replaced.

A bad ignition switch, bad solenoid (on the starter), or a loose wire would cause your symptoms, you can put a volt meter on the solenoid and have someone turn the key if you get 12v then the starter is the most likely candidate, but before buy or replace anything you should have the starter tested. Most parts stores will do this for free, but you have to take it off and take it to them.


I areally appreciate the help from this forum. As far as taking off the starter and taking it to them, that could be a problem. I heard that for a 1994 S10 Blazer 4X4, that it is a pain in the ass. Not to mention that I am in a apartment building and don't have the jack stands to do all the work. Unfortunatly, I may just have to pony-up and bring the whlle vehicle to the shop. Drag, push, pull it somehow.

If I do that though, I will find out the exact problem and post it back on this forum, just in case this happens to others.

Thanks again!
Slkeeter6755

I recently replaced the starter in my 95 4x4 Blazer. Jack stands are cheap. I bought a pair of 3 ton AC/Delcos at a local parts dealer for $20. And if taken care of, will last a lifetime. Use the trucks normal jack in the back compartment to raise it one side at a time and then support it on the jack stand. Move the jack to the other side, jack it up and put the other stand underneath the truck so it sits level. A landlord cannot complain much about this, as it is NOT messy work. (I deal with an apartment situation too)

Once the truck is up, you are going to have to get underneath it, and clear out some room to get to the starter though it looks like you can just reach up and grab it. Mark and unbolt the front driveshaft from the differential by removing the 9mm bolts that hold the clip retainers over the joint. Just tuck the drive shaft up and to the side, resting on the frame rail. You will have to remove the strut that connects the transmission bell housing cover from both sides. (Housing and the block), lay that aside somewhere safe too. Remove the housing bolts to loosen up the bell housing cover and then tilt and sliiiiide it out of the way completely towards the side that has more breathing room from shifting the drive axle aside. While you have the cover off - might as well get a look at the teeth on your fly-wheel to see if your starter ate that up on it's way out. Missing or gouged teeth are a no-no! Putting in a new starter will just make problems worse and it will have to be taken to a shop to get the fly-wheel changed if this is the case - but chances are you will be just fine. Once you have freed up the room, go back topside and disconnect both of your battery leads, as battery current is directly shunted to the starter through one huge cable. Get back underneath the truck and loosen up the two bolts that hold the starter to the transmission housing. They are going to be long, so patience here will pay off. When the last bolt is removed, support the motor and pull the bolt free, then slide the motor down and forward. Reach behind it with a wrench or socket to disconnect the solenoid wires FIRST. The thick main cable is large enough to supprot the bulk of the starter, but the solenoid wire(s) are not! Then lastly, remove the thick main cable from it's terminal and you have the motor out. ;) Assembly is the reverse of removal, and does not require special tools. If there were shims used between the "mouth" of the starter and transmission housing, save them. Re-use them to get your replacement back up and into place. If in the odd chance you have to re-shim, you will find the new ones in the box along with your new/rebuilt starter. Do not use any more than any two shims. The engine can be test started without the housing cover and drive shaft in place. An excessively loud, squealing, or grinding noise at start up indicates that you will just have to swap a few different shims around until the right clearance is found. Good luck! Did mine 3 months ago and she's turning over faster than lightning with a heavy duty Bosch OEM style replacement that's NEW. Not a rebuilt. I have had no luck with the cheaper, rebuilt OEM motors at all.