i've been dreaming about this turbo for a couple weeks. i dont know anything about it. but the compresser map looks downright MEAN! i think this turbo would complement the 2.3 storker im working on quite nicely. it seems i can't find alot of information about it. i dont even know what kind of flange it uses on the exhaust manifold.

i was hoping somone might know a thing or two about the turbo, and let me know if it will bolt onto out exhaust manny's or what new properly flanged manifold they use. or maybe even a comparable turbo that would work on the 2g manny. besides i havent decided if i want to go external wastegate yet or not, i just think internal is so much easyer.

http://www.turbocalculator.com/map-t.php?img=t61&turbo=Garrett%20T61

You can get it in T3 or T4. I have never heard of a turbo larger than a hybrid t3/t4 or 20g with an internal wastegate, and I wouldn't want to try and manage boost on a T61 if EVO 16g's are having problems with it. If I were you, I would be deciding if the money is there for a setup this big. As for a turbo that is similar to work on the 2g manifold, you have FP red and FP3065 that both are within the same power range.

FP Red, 3065 & Green are twice the price! those are both great turbos.
i've also considerd the t3/t4 60 trim & and tdo6h 20g. the main reasion i've grown attached to this T61 is because of how linear its map is! any turbo with a map of 3bar @ 50lb/min inside effecency island for $650 gets a thumbs up from me!!

im not concerned with the cost of going big. i've set a goal of hitting 50lb/min on my stroker motor this spring and my wife is well aware and somewhat ok with me spending the $$ (after lots of flowers and shoes). and that turbo looks awfull sexy at its price!!

i'll more then likely with a tial 40mm wastegate onto a 3in mandrell w/ electric exhaust cutoutbefore the cat. I think that should be good enough at the strip and just fine for the day to day cruising. But i have seen some large turbos with internal gates.... but quite obviouslly the garrett T61 dosn't have one..

i was just hoping somone knew a little somthing or another about the T61 and how it preforms.

It's true that garrett turbos can be had for a pretty reasonable price. Maybe from lack of knowledge the map doesn't impress me. Seems like it requires a lot of boost for a given flow rate. Anyway, whether the T61 is in your future or not, if you want inexpensive turbos with plenty of options, full garrett is the way to go. I think a closer comparison is the 60-1, not the 60 trim. Anyway, since I'm not familiar with the difference between a garrett T04 60-1 and the T61 this is where Kevin comes in. :) good luck

That map looks a little tall for a stroker. Remember that with a stroker you move more air (to the right on the map) with less boost (not as high on the map). A turbo made for a larger displacement motor usually works well, since it leans to the right more. The GT40 56 trim wheel seems to work great with strokers, but it can be maxed out around 30 psi. A 60-1 mathces well too, but maxes out at ~25 psi. But remember that thats not a negative thing, boost isnt important, flow is. I've maxed out both wheels on a stroker, so I know where the limits are. But also remember that these wheels perform differently on our cars. I mean, a 60-1 is way off the map at 35 psi, but poeple have run 9s like that. So don't put too much weight in the compressor maps. Pay more attention to its max flow rating vs your power goals and future room to grow. Either way I can't argue with going to a full garret setup. You can swap housings and turbos all day long until you get what you want. Rebuilds are cheap. Parts are cheap. And there are a shitload of options.

Post up a little more detail about your goals and I can suggest other potential turbos. But the t61 seems fine too. 50 lbs/min will be ridiculously easy on a stroker. I think you can hit that around 20 psi. For comparison a 2 liter with stock intake manifold will typically do upper 40s at 25 psi, lower 40s at 20 psi. Mathematically, you should just be able to add 20%, or about 10 lbs/min to the 2 liter numbers. Remember that boost is heat. More airflow at less boost will be more power without knocking. Especially on pump gas. ;)

Edit> Also remember that stroker spool turbos ridiculously easy, so dont go too small. There no point in getting boost at 3000 rpm. Use up some of that stroker. A GT40 56 trim spooled at 3700 rpm on my 2.3 liter. The T67 spools in the upper 4000s, maybe 5000. The difference is in the ehxuast side. Which brings up another point... :D You need a bigger exhaust side, since 20% more displacement means 20% more ehxuast volume. You need to get rid of that, to get rid of heat. If you stick with a typical wheel like the stage 3, do a .82 housing. A stage 5 with a 82 is even better, but it will raise lag a bit. But a larger exhaust side will make more power at the same boost, with less knock. Again, more airflow at less pressure (heat) euqls more power with less tendency to knock.

I Could go on for hours about this...

i think that should be a write-up all in itself.....kevin aka. the turbo god.

I still don't know everything, not even close :) But I've learned a bit over the years. I still recomend people research and get a couple opinions before just believing what I say... Talking to vendors can be very helpful too. I spent a few minutes talking to Kevin from AGP before going with the T67, very helpful over there.

i love these threads...

Is it better to buy a turbo kit... like from star or hanh? or just better to piece up one by one? Before i never knew anything about turbo... but now comming to this forum i learn alot more, but still need more knowledge. The only thing is i still dont know the sizes of the turbo... as in like the smallest.. to the max size turbo that can fit into a dsm. 16g.. 20g... t3 t4?? i dont know any of that stuff so can someone explain the size differ to me and the performence wise?

Well. my goals are for a very potential 11's car. though i'd settle for a mid to low 12 this year and work thought the kinks. i'll be running 6bolt knife edged 2.3 with celvite main/rod/cam bearings. 1g pistons and Weisco stroker pistons & weisco xx rings. ported oil galley, relief valve, ARP rod, main, heads & no balance shafts. The head will consist of whatever the weekend special is I can find at the time. But most likely 3 angle job, 1 over ferrea valves, port and polish crower or ferrea springs (maybe dual if I go huge on the turbo) & retainer. New stock lifters & rocker arms. And probably 90 gsx cams and a set of the cheap aem cam gears. Its true 90’s have the best stock grind right?

Dsmlink
255hp, afpr w/ return, rre 900’s maybe 1000. I don’t know I haven’t crunched the # yet
Big emphases on; “Maybe” zex wet 75-100 shot. Probably not though.

If, dear I say it, I spend $1000 on a turbo and require a larger exhaust housing like previously stated. What will that do to my plans for a 3in mandrel down pipe. Will I need to go larger to provide for the increased displacement. Either way, would it be wise to wait off on that?

Why doses there have to be so many choices!! I reamber when all I knew about were Mitsubishi Turbos. Im really not looking to spend a grand on the turbo alone. If I could get away with spending a grand on the turbo, manny & wastegate id do the jig. reality says that aint going to happen. but i'll still scower the earth, i mean ebay..

11s shouldnt be terribly hard on a stroker. So I would choose the turbo based on lag. Go with the biggest turbo you can tolerate, that way there is room to grow. But anything from say 60-1 and up will do and not lag bad. Chad was selling his AGP kit for 1400, I think it will be hard to find a setup cheaper than that. Its worth every penny. Occassionally you see people selling just the parts. For example, someone right now is selling a SFP tunular manifold, but flanged for mitsu turbo.

With dSMlink, get the biggestinjectros you can. I wouldnt run anything smaller than FIC 950s. Actually I need to upgrade again if anyone is interested. 950s are good to 72 pounds/min under my particular circumstances, but I Would like a little more breathing room. I'll probably run FIC 1600s, IDCs will drop to 60-70% with my turbo maxed out at 74 lbs.

3" exhuast should still be fine for whatever you plan to do. Most of the t3 style 2.5" housing still use a stock sized flange, so all typical 3" DPs will bolt up. The only exception is on a turbo like mine where you need a 3" O2 housing (O trim turbine wheel is over 2.5" in diameter, so you have no choice), in which case they dont make a downpipe to work with it, and you will have to modify it to accept a 3" flange, whatever is on the O2 housing (apex/RRE flange in my case with the AGP setup).



I think the 90 cams are not the best, 91-94 MT turbo should be what you are looking for. I believe the 90 turbo cams are the same as the 91-94 auto cams. Its only a matter of slighyly more lift, but if you have a choice, every little bit helps.

Is it better to buy a turbo kit... like from star or hanh? or just better to piece up one by one? Before i never knew anything about turbo... but now comming to this forum i learn alot more, but still need more knowledge. The only thing is i still dont know the sizes of the turbo... as in like the smallest.. to the max size turbo that can fit into a dsm. 16g.. 20g... t3 t4?? i dont know any of that stuff so can someone explain the size differ to me and the performence wise?

At one point I listed all common turbos used on DSMs and thier relative sizes. I think it might be linked to or copied in the faq thread.

kevin double posted!! :nono: :iceslolan

Why a built head and no cams/intake manifold?

Kevin, how much do you want for the injectors?

Yeah, I'm a post whore. :D

Now that I think about it, stock cams is an odd choice, mainly because of the stroker. The 1mm over should increase flow at the same lift/duration however. Cams are probably still the way to go though. Remember, more flow at the same boost is like free HP. ;) Well, almost. At any rate, on a 2 liter, cams are typically good for ~4 lbs/min at the same boost, or about 40 HP. On a stroker it may be worth more.

For the injectors, not sure. They are 390 new, I'd probably be fine taking 100 off that. They havent been used all the much though, and flow exactly what they are rated for comparing the DSMlink AFR calculation to the WBO2. But I only see 1000s on SBRs site now, and nothing on FICs. Those are just 950s that flow too high, and are set aside to make matched sets. I though it was FIC that made the 1600s? MAybe not. I have to look into it again.

stock cams and 1g intake becasue i dont have the cash to do this all at once. thats a grand easy right there in those two items. just being realistic for now.

i was checking ebay a week back, looks like that knockoff company OBX that steals everyones product came out with a sheet metal intake for $250.

as for the cams. im waiting for Forced Performance to come out with the Stroker 2.3 cams. im kinda intrested in seeing how those come out. there suppose to be alot cheaper then HKS and Crower

I'd like some stroker specific cams myself.

Be careful with cheap intakes. The most common problem (aside from piss poor design) is warped flanges. Even with my superior quality BJs intake, I still swung by the machinists to check it for flatness. I believe it was withing 2 thousands or so. Not even worth mentioning.

well, after a little bit of reading, and alot more thinking. i've decided to give the Precision SCM61 a shot @ 895 shipped. it covers what i want with the power range capable of 630hp. it comes with a 38mm internal wastegate and is a dirrect bolt on to my 2g exhaust manifold. so after a port job on my manny & o2 housing i think i'll be good.

it looks like i'll need to plug my collant line from my my waterpipe because the scm61 is oil cooled. so, when installing this turbo would it be best just to by a non-turbo waterpipe and thermistat housing if i can get one cheap. insted of caping the existing water lines.

Any time you cap off those lines, they are still a liability. I ran for years like that, but eventually got the non-turbo parts. The non-turbo parts wont have provisions for the stock 91-99 oil mixer though. That thing is a piece anyway and should be tossed in the shitcan. But that is a whole other topic. I run no oil cooler, but for a car that sees a lot of hot street miles an air cooler would be ideal. If you don't want to go through all that, just cap off the lines and keep your current water pipe/etc and use the oil mixer.

nope. rather upgrade it the right way the fist time! so i'll add that to the $ list. and buy a air/air oil cooler and run a t-line from their to the turbo. right on.

hanh racecraft 20g turbo with internal wastegate is to me the best internal wasgate turbo. you do however need a kit to install on a 2nd gen. which includes exhaust manifold spacer and all the lines. i have a 97 gst spyder my engine is bone stock. i mean bone stock bottom and head. all i have are direct bolt-ons and with a 20g im pushing 410hp it was just tuned and dyno at turbotrix. got 20g turbo 21psi 550rc injectors 250 fuel pump fuel regulator injen intake 3inch pipe huge greddy front mount. turbo xs rfl bov and bov pipe suspension fully done safc full 3 inch magnaflow exhaust system lightweight crank pulley no power stearing or ac. lightweight fidanza flywheel stg5 clutchmaster transmission with turbotrix lsd bbk throttle body and most important of all magnus sheetmetal intake manifold. u be amazed at how much power this intake gives u. and a few other things here and there but engine is bone stock. and car pushes 410 horses. and waiting for clutch to break in. anyone have any idea on what i do at the track 1/4 mile? im hoping to do low 13s high 12s. but again if you're looking for a turbo with internal wasgate go with hahn turbos. oh yea the only thing my engine has is a 4 layer head gasket and arp studs.

this isn't the place for us to guess your 1/4 mile times. i'm sure scottsee is well aware of 20g turbos, but i wouldn't recommend hahn in particular.

I'm not a fan of having an extra exhaust gasket in the mix, 10 cm turbine housings, or describing HP as something you "push." But 410 whp is still worth a compliment. :)

The only reason the hahns work so well with internals is the 10 cm housing. Less pressure trying to blow it open, so you can use a larger flapper (pressure times area equals force). I used to rag on the hahn turbos all the time, but I'm starting to wish I tried one jsut for the sake of experimentation. The added lag probably isnt a bad thing on a FWD anyway, and the larger turbine housings do increase power for a given boost level (increased Volumetric Efficiency). Oh well. So many turbos, so little time.

hanh is a great turbo. their tdo6h 20g has ALOT of potentual. its also nice to say you've stuck with your roots, using a mitusbishi turbo. but their to expensive in my own opinion compared to other manufactures. spyder3152003, if you read my prior posts im looking to spend less then $1000. Welcome to AF

thanks for the wellcome by the way i am looking to sell my 20g for $650
im going wit a turbotrix turbo next. if ur interested email me spyder3152003@yahoo.com

oh yea and to that other guy that said this int the place to guess what my 1/4 mile would be u can kiss my droptop 400+hp bodykited $5,000 dolla paint job and soon to be awd spyder's ass biotch.

thanks for the wellcome by the way i am looking to sell my 20g for $650
im going wit a turbotrix turbo next. if ur interested email me spyder3152003@yahoo.com

oh yea and to that other guy that said this int the place to guess what my 1/4 mile would be u can kiss my droptop 400+hp bodykited $5,000 dolla paint job and soon to be awd spyder's ass biotch.

Watch your mouth when talking to a Moderator like that. I dont care what you have or if you are "soon to be awd spyder", I have an AWD droptop, not that big of a deal... Read the rules, and respect the moderators/senior members or you will not be welcome here!

Watch your mouth when talking to a Moderator like that. I dont care what you have or if you are "soon to be awd spyder", I have an AWD droptop, not that big of a deal... Read the rules, and respect the moderators/senior members or you will not be welcome here!

:werd:

And stop trying to hijack Scott's thread to sell your turbo. Take that shit to DSMtrader.com.

Scott, I'm definitely looking forward to seeing this setup on your car! I'm also following your thread on Tuners, where you're sorting out the minor details and getting everything ready. :smokin:

It really doesn't make much diffrence if he hijacks it or not. i dont even think he knows what that means. Thanks though.

The wifes cool with me spending $2250 now and $500 next month. im little scared to be honist. that some cash. im getting it all figured out though just taking a little more time then i thought.

if i lived on the east coast im possitive i would have had this all buttoned up by now. all you Fuckers that could help me out live to far away.