Help! 96 ES dies when shift into gear.

My daughters' 96 'Trep ES is driving me nutz! It kept skipping and cutting off. I checked MAP sensor, no voltage on signal wire so I replaced it. I replaced both O2 Sensors. Now, it runs great....as long as you don't put it in gear! Put it in Reverse or Drive and it dies! (painfully) It acts like it wanys to go but stalls. If I give it some gas it will go but as soon as it slows down...........death!

It acts like my Toyota 4x4 when the clutch died. It was in gear and the clutch was depressed fully but it wan't to go! Could this be the torque converter not unlocking? If so, how do you test for that.? All help appreciated. $225 later and still not running! My teenage daughter is driving my Suburban!!! That's not good!!! I need to get her back on the road.

sounds like a fuel problem. Have the system pressure checked; if it's not at least 44 to 54 psi when running, it could be a bad pressure regulator or worse case, a bad fuel pump.

sounds like a fuel problem. Have the system pressure checked; if it's not at least 44 to 54 psi when running, it could be a bad pressure regulator or worse case, a bad fuel pump.


It did have several codes from the OBDII scan. I don't have my norebok with me but one was "no 5 V. to MAP sensor and another involed being too lean and third was about idle speed. I replaced MAP and both O2 sensors (Upstrem) and it runs great until I put it in gear.

Would the fuel problem cause that? Like I said, it runs great and revs great until I put it in gear.

OK.....checked fuel pressure. 48 PSI running with vacuum on fuel pressure regulator. 54 PSI without vacuum on fuel pressure regulator. Fuel pressure drops when I apply pressure to regulator manually so regulator is working.
HELP!

BY the way...the codes from last week were:
P0171 System too lean (bank 1)
P1296 No 5V to MAP sensor
P1294 Idle speed performance

I replaced the MAP, both O2's upstream and fuel filter. It cranked and ran fine. I drove in arounf\d the block a few times. I erased codes and no more check lights on. I DID do the key on-off-on-off-on thing and keep getting a 12 and 55.
HELP! This car is about to meet Mr. Match if I don't get it running!

You mentioned that the code for idle speed driver: your normal idle speed should be around 750 RPM. Sounds like the idle speed motor is weak thus not allowing it to maintain the necessary idle when the engine's under load.

Thanks!

Is there any way to check short of just replacing it? At the rate I'm going, this will be a brand new car!

By-the-way......Does the "idle speed motor" have another name?

it can also be called IAC- Idle Air Control

OK.......IAC checked good. I actually took it out and verified it pulls in when turn ignition on. TPS sensor input and signal voltage good. Whats next

OK........Let the games begin!

After checking everything I could think to check, I went back and started over in case I missed something. When I got to the IAC, the voltages were DIFFERENT this time. I should have battery voltage on terminals "A" and "C" on the plug. The first time was 11.98 on both. when I re-checked them, I got .22 on "A" and 11.98 0n "C". Looked at wires for short, didn't find any. Checked voltage again, "A" was 11.98 and "C" was .07. Wait a little time and the readings are different. I don't know what "B" and "D" are supposed to be but they were different every time also.

What could possibly cause this? Is THIS my problem??? Still no Check Engine Light. Ran codes with OBDII, and nothing!!!

SOMEBODY PLEASE HELP!!! I'M LOSING IT HERE!!!

what I recommend that you do now is go to a shop or dealership (preferably a Chrysler dealer) who can hook up to the PCM and test it to see if it's working properly. If the sensors are good, that's an alternative route to take. If you want to save money, try this: disconnect the IAC again and get an ohmmeter and measure resistance. Measure resistance between terminals A & D and B & C; if you continuity at all, the sensor's fine, if one set of contacts have continuity and the others don't, you have a bad sensor and should be replaced.

The voltages I measured were from the plug itself, not the sensor. I read those volts from the wiring harness/plug with the plug diconnected from the sensor. It is supposed to be battery voltage at A and C. The voltages were all over the scale. No different scenarios, just lapse in time and readings were different. How does checking continuity on the sensor tell me what is happening with different volts on wiring harness?

Can dealership check PCM If I take just that to them? Closest Chrysler dealer is 50 miles and I'd have to have car towed (ouch)

the voltages confirm this for me, that the PCM is working properly b/c it has various drivers inside the module that control IAC movement; the purpose for checking the IAC itself will tell you if it can hold the signal needed to keep the motor going; a shorted out IAC will cause these same problems.

Here are a couple of other suggestions you might want to try; though your TPS never tripped a code, check it anyways: get a paper clip and attach it in the wire colored orange/blue and get your voltmeter (what you're doing is something called backprobing). With the key on, engine off attach the positive lead of the meter to that wire you've backprobed and the black to a good engine ground. Move the throttle by hand and you should see a smooth gradual rise in voltage; should go from 0.6v to 4.0V at full throttle. If it doesn't do any of those above steps, you have a bad Throttle position sensor and should replace it. Another thing, make sure your spark plug wires are snuggly in place and check the coil, make sure the primary ignition wires are not partially disconnected. Also, check around your intake manifold for any hissing or whistling sounds; make sure you don't have a manifold leak also check around your throttle body make sure it's snug and gasket's in place. Last, check body and engine ground connections make sure everything's in place; that could also be a trouble spot. Hopefully, I've been able to answer some issues for you and lead you in the right direction.

Yeah, that give's me more to check,. I did check the TPS yesterday. It was fine. I just put new plug wires and plugs not long ago. I'll check coil and ground wires. I keep getting that "battery disconnected" code 12. I may be in the ground wiring.

You're a transmission specialist, are you pretty much ruling out the torque convertor locked-up???(or any other trans problem to cause this) Every time I crank it and put it in gear, it's trying to go, it even jumps sometimes, but it cut's off!

A mechanic friend of mine told me initially that the coil could be bad. Would it cause this to die when I put it in gear? I've never gotten a misfire code.

THANKS for all of your help so far!!! I've never had a car cut my tail, but this one is getting close!

yeah, I do rebuild transmissions, today is my day off, thank god. But anyway, the torque converter would not be locked up at start up b/c you can smoothly start it up. If it were locked up, the car would start up like a manual transmission w/ the clutch not applied; it would try to move forward. So that's fine. Definetly check the coil; it may do fine at idle but as soon as the engine is loaded, it may not be able to provide enough spark to keep it going.

Here's something else to consider; though I feel like an idiot for not remembering this, check your battery connections, especially the negative. Make sure it's clean and not corroded.

How about this.....

P0750 - shift Selenoid A Malfunction

It never game me that code before today. The car hasn't left the driveway in ten days. Could this be why it cuts off when I put it in gear???

By-the-way...

All of the lights on the shift indicator in the instrument panel are lit up too. They have been since this started. I don't know if that is important or not.....

If you have a shift solenoid malfunction, the entire shift solenoid body needs to be replaced. On this transmission, it's mounted inside the transmission case on top of the valve cover. My recommendation to you is that you find someone locally who is good w/ transmissions and have them put the shift solenoid assembly in your car. If you aren't too sure how to replace & remove a valve body, don't do it, you could mess things up. The faulty shift solenoid SHOULDN'T give you the problem that you're having of it stalling once it gets into gear.

this is just an off the wall question, but do you have an alarm on the car? The reason why I ask that is because on older Chryslers from the early to mid 90s, if the car has an alarm, until you hit the "UNLOCK" button on the key fob, the alarm would disable the fuel system. Just curios if you did have that.

Yeah...it has an alarm, but the car cranks and runs fine! Until you put it in gear that is!!! If the shift solenoid isn't causing it to cut off, what could possibly be left? I've replaced the MAP, both upstream O2 sensors, IAC and put a new coil on it yesterday. The EGR works, the fuel pressure regulator works, the fuel pump has good pressure, I'm running outta stuff!

well, I guess since you have a code for a faulty shift solenoid, though I'm not exactly sure what shift solenoid A is, I guess it is a possibility that the torque converter clutch is applying or applied and that's what is causing it to stall when it is in gear; though I've never seen this happen, I guess it is a possibility.

I erased the code and it didn't come back, at least not yet. I think I'm just gonna burn this @#%&**^@ thing! I'm out of clues!

I'm grasping at straws here b/c I've exhausted all the practical suggestions that I have; try this, if you still want to try, disconnect the electrical connector at the Idle Air Control valve and put it in gear, if it runs just fine, you have a defective IAC, if not, it's fine. The next possible thing I can think of is get some fuel injector cleaner, preferably Lucah Fuel Treatment commonly found at Advance Auto Parts, and pour that in your tank. I know it's frustrating went through the same thing w/ my '95 Toyota Camry.

' Sounds like you're convinced my problem is engine/electronics related and not transmission. I respect that since you're the one with Chrysler experience. My Chrysler experience ended in the 70's with my hotrods!

What is THE proper testing sequence for the IAC? The test procedure in my Haynes manual and the test shown on the AutoZone website are completely different. I DID put a new IAC in the car, but it could be a bad part or the IAC circuit could be screwed-up! The wiring did give me different readings each time I checked it. What should they be? What about ohms/voltage on IAC circuit itself and the IAC motor? I'll go through it again. When I got the P0750 code, part of me was happy thinking FINALLY i had the culprit. but if you don't think it could do that, I'll start over. Please let me know proper testing for IAC circuit/unit.

Thanks!

I just talked with guy from Makco Distributing. (Transmission parts supplier in Dallas, TX) He's telling me torque convertor locked-up, Transmission needs rebuild with new convertor! JUST SHOOT ME NOW!!! I was last to drive before car freaked out. Trans shifted fine (and I dogged it hard to see how it ran with all of those new sensors) No burnt fluid smell. It has done this before but it has just been an occasional, intermittent thing. Now it appear to be permanent (and fatal!)

What do you think Freaknasty? You're a transmission guy. Could this be a TCC problem? Does it mean trans is shot? Could it still be IAC?? Does it just need to be put out of my misery?

It has been my experience that with torque converter clutches, they usually fail when the engine is up to speed and when you're coming to a stop; like when you stop a manual tranny w/o coming off the clutch, it stalls the motor. Even if the torque converter IS locked up, it doesn't always need a tranny rebuild, although a rebuild is not a bad idea since it's easier to do it while it already out. Maybe I haven't been paying much attention and I hate to sound redundant, but when it stalls, does it hiccup, sputter, and gag, or does it just stall smooth w/ no vibrations at all? If the stall is nice & smooth, it just might be a bad converter clutch. The best way to tell is to have someone attach a pressure gauge to one of the pressure tap ports and see what kind of pressure the converter clutch circuit is building. The reason why I'm so convinced that the converter can't be locked up is because there are return springs that return the clutch to it's normal "at rest" position so lock-up doesn't really occur because the main components inside are not connected up. The only way it'll lock up is when the engine is running and all electricity is flowing through the proper cirucits. Try this, get underneath the car and disconnect your output speed sensor, it's the sensor towards the back of the tranny; and put it in gear. The transmission will be in limp mode, where it'll only operate in reverse and second gear only, but what you are doing is testing the electronics of the transmission. If it stalls, than you can rule out transmission electronics. If it does, than you have probably now, after almost two weeks unfortunately, (not trying to sound like a wise ass) you could have just a bad solenoid assembly. Though let me ask this other question, before all this went wrong, did the transmission ever act funny or different, like go into "limp mode"?

' Sounds like you're convinced my problem is engine/electronics related and not transmission. I respect that since you're the one with Chrysler experience. My Chrysler experience ended in the 70's with my hotrods!

What is THE proper testing sequence for the IAC? The test procedure in my Haynes manual and the test shown on the AutoZone website are completely different. I DID put a new IAC in the car, but it could be a bad part or the IAC circuit could be screwed-up! The wiring did give me different readings each time I checked it. What should they be? What about ohms/voltage on IAC circuit itself and the IAC motor? I'll go through it again. When I got the P0750 code, part of me was happy thinking FINALLY i had the culprit. but if you don't think it could do that, I'll start over. Please let me know proper testing for IAC circuit/unit.

Thanks!

There really isn't a way that the home mechanic can do to test the IAC other than check for loose and faulty connections. The varying voltages that you had when you initially checked it confirm one thing, that the PCM is sending the right signal drivers to the IAC to vary engine idle, so you PCM is fine. Like I said, try disconnecting the IAC, (it'll set a code, so just be ready to clear it just FYI) and let it run, THEN, put it in gear. If it runs, but seems to stumble a little bit, then you have found your problem, a defective IAC.

This car HAS gone into limp mode a few times in the past. I or my daughter just pulled over, turned off the ignition and it reset. This car didn't just decide to freak-out. It started stalling when stopping at a red light. The car would crank back up everytime, but getting it into gear and giving enough gas to get moving (without ripping the tranny out) was difficult! It has done THAT several times but it cleared up and ran fine in between events. It has stalled several times in the past few months when coming to a stop. It has stalled nice and smooth sometimes and sometimes I thought it was going to jump out from underneath the hood!

It was storming here in Coastal S.C. last night so I didn't mess with it, being it is in the driveway. (my neighborhood covenants won't allow a detached garage) I'll do the checks you mentioned when I get back from a soccer game.

Like I've said before, this was stalling when coming to a stop, then it would clear up for a while. This is the first time it has done it on and "extended" basis.

Thank You for all of your help so far!

well, I guess the solenoid assembly has taken a dump, based on the symptoms you described. I guess it struck me as odd that it would stall once it was in gear b/c the torque converter clutch usually doesn't apply in park, the programming has it locking up at 42 MPH in either 3rd or 4th gear. But if it's definetly faulty, which commonly happens, then have that solenoid assembly replaced. Sounds like that's your culprit.

Thanks! I'll do the over checks tonight to rule out other possibilities.

Now when you say solenoid, do you mean shift control solenoid or TCC? How difficult is repair? I'm better-than-average home mechanic. I worked my way thru college as a mechanic at Chevrolet dealership in my home town. But I haven't done that since 1982 and cars have changed a lot! I'm currently building a 347 Ford stroker for a short-bed pick-up project. Now, admitably, trannys aren't my thing, but I think I could handle as long as it's not complete teardown.

Basically w/o getting into transmission electronics 101, the 42LE transmission, found in your daughter's car, is electronically controlled by speed sensors and a solenoid assembly that controls all upshifts and downshifts. Unlike most other cars, if you have a shift solenoid failure, all you have to do is drop the tranny oil pan, and disconnect the solenoid and replace it. But on this particular transmission, that's not the case. It won't require a complete teardown and rebuild or even removal of the transmission, it can be done, but you must be careful and pay close attention to what you are doing, as you are well aware, much has changed in the automotive industry since the early 80s, in fact, at my dealership, your daughter's car is considered "ancient" technology. But if you are willing to replace that shift solenoid yourself, first, you'll have to go back to a Chrysler dealer and get it, no other auto part store will carry that in stock. Drain the oil from your transmission by dropping the pan, disconnect the shift linkage, and by the linkage will be a big wire connector, disconnect that as well. After you have done that, including removal of filter, get a 10mm socket and go around the perimeter of the valve body and remove the bolts holding the valve body in place. Once the valve body is loosened, bring the body down and the solenoid assembly will be on top of the valve body. Replace and put new gaskets in place and reposition the new solenoid assembly the way the old one was removed. Place the valve body back on the transmission case and when tightening the screws, tighten them in criss-cross pattern and tighten the screws to no more than 108 in-lb. Be very care not to overtighten b/c this thing is made of aluminum and is easy to warp. Once you've done that, replace filter, pan gasket, and top off with 5 quarts of Mopar ATF +4 transmission fluid. It is imperative that you use Mopar ATF +4 in this car; if not you'll have transmission issues and you'll end up wanting to burn the car before it is all said and done. I wish you the best of luck and let me know where I can be of assistance if you run into any snags.

Daniel

OK....9:30 PM, just got back from soccer. I'm not sure if this is bad news or good news! At least maybe we know now! I disconnected the IAC. ' had noticable drop in RPM's and idle didn't seem very stable (as opposed to before) It still dies when I shift to Reverse or drive. Unplugged output speed sensor (rear) car still died when put in gear. So....this means shift solenoid??? Is this something a Chrysler dealer will normally stock?

What happened to the days when all that mattered was cubic inches, valve size, cam lift/duration, carb (yes CARB ) CFM and a Borg Warner 4 speed!!! All of that has been replaced by computers, relays and switches.

Chrysler dealers would normally carry this item; glad to see those checks confirm the shift solenoid theory.

I'll try to get one today. It'll probably be Saturday before I can get it in, but I'll let you know how it winds up. THANKS!!!

HELP!

My lack of patience has gotten me again! I went ahead and started the shift solenoid replacement tonight. of course I was working by trouble light. I didn't know they're were so darn many bolts/screws in that vavle body. Anyway, I was taking the valve body off and my hands were covered in ATF fluid and the vavle body slipped! I didn't get a chance to see what went where! It all came out at one time. Obviously, the 2 pistons go in the cylinders. Do they go with the domes up towards the tranny or down towards the pan? I'm assuming the 2 bigger springs go in the pistons. Where does the little spring go? Please tell me there are only 4 steel balls! where do they go?

Other than having to pick up the pistons, springs and ball bearings up off of the driveway, everything is going good so far! Where could I find a diagram? I could probably put them in the right places if you give me good directions, but I'm gonna try to find some pix or diagrams too!

Thanks!

(I don't see how you do this for a living! Too much stuff on them today. Lot simpler "back in the day" I'd be an alcoholic if I had to do it now!)

I hope you didn't take off the torx or star-shaped screws, those hold the two halves of the valve body; that's my fault, I should've told you that in the beginning and I apologize. The pistons you are talking about are the accumulators; the domes are going to point downward toward the pan. You also have two big springs and two little springs; one big spring and one little spring go inside each accumulator. As far as the check balls, if you have the valve body apart, you'll see indentations or grooves in the valve body where those check balls would normally seat themselves. Before you put all this back together, clean everything off thoroughly; the slightest grain of sand will destroy that transmission. I don't have a diagram on me, I'll have to go to work and get one and see if I can cut & paste. If not, I'll even do a search on the web for one and post it for you. Believe me, your daughter's car is a easy (for me at least). If you ever decide to buy a new Dodge Ram truck and the crank sensor needs to be replaced, let's just say it takes a lot of bending and twisting to get your hand in place to test and replace it.

Thanks for the input. Like I said, my lack of patience got the best of me. I'm ready to get my daughter out of my Suburban! I removed the 10 MM hex heads and it wouldn't budge. I definitely did not want to pry it so I assumed the torx screws came out also. Apparentley I DID take the valve body apart! Now, I have 2 big springs but there was only ONE little spring! I have FOUR little ball bearings. Am I missing some stuff???

Ernie

I have a diagram of the valve body and I'll try to get it to you ASAP. Just FYI, the part of the valve body that slants to the right, there are two spots for two check balls and towards the flat top portion of the valve body is another two spots for the check ball. There are only 4 check balls in this valve body. Like I said before about the springs, each accumulator piston has two springs, the little one goes in first then the big one. That should be it, if there's anything else that I'm missing, let me know.

I'll look up in the cylinders, but I looked well on the driveway and I only found 1 little spring, unless it fell into the drain pan I had under it. I'll check it when I get home. Thanks!!!

There is ONLY ONE little spring! Not in the drain pan or anywhere else. I looked over every square inch surrounding the car. It just wasn't there! It has ran fine without it, until now. Is it that important?

Friday 6:45 PM

OK....Just got thru cleaning everything up and getting ready to reassemble tomorrow. After looking at the lower portion of the valve body....I'm really confused! I know you said earlier the piston domes (2) go towards the pan but the wear indication I saw doesn't show that. I don't know if I have a wierd model or what! Let me tell you what I saw:

Wear indicates that only one piston had a small spring in it. Inside of other piston did not have smooth shiny spot in center. Wear on the lower portion of valve body indicates that piston on drivers side points up, big circle the size of piston at base where they meet. Also, on drivers side accumulator, a torx bit screw is on the inside portion of valve body in the exact center of where the piston is, another indicator that piston goes up on drivers side. If it pointed down, it would hit the screw in the dead center of piston dome. Also, the small spring would not fit over the torx bit screw so that would tell me only a big spring went in that piston. I haven't CLEARLY identified where all of the check balls go, to many grooves. I think 3 are obvious so far, due to size that will allow ball to go in and valve body to seat.

HELP! Do I have a weird model? At least the new shift solenoid is identical to the old one!

Hey Freaknasty, it's the underdrive accumulator and the overdrive accumulator that I have in my hand. Underdrive accumulator gets 1 spring??? and Overdrive accumulator gets 2??? Underdrive is on drivers side??? Overdrive on pass. side??? Do the domes both go in same direction or one of each??? Does it matter where the notch in piston is positioned??? I hate to bother you but you're best qualified.

Still have no stinking idea about check balls! HELP!

First, try to find the snapring that holds the accumulators to the transmission case. W/o those, you'll never be able to hold those accumulator in place. As far as the notch, look in the bore of the accumulator; there will be a tab or cutout for that notch to ride on, that's how you'll be able to put it back together properly. Your assumption is correct as to the location of the Underdrive accumulator, it's on the driver's side and takes 2 springs, the big one and the small one (small spring goes inside of big spring.) The overdrive accumulator takes the one; sorry for the confusion earlier. I'm working on the diagram and will try to get it ASAP.

I'm on the bottom-side of the tranny. There were no snap-rings and no groove to put snap-rings into. I have the bottom plate of the valve-body out. Overdrive/underdrive accumulator pistons just fell right out when I removed bootom side of valve-body. The notch I was refering to was just a notch in bottom of piston wall, I'm confused on it riding on something.....the bores are all flat, nothing to ride!

I freaking give-up!!!

Just finished installing new shift control solenoid. Still dies! It's still lugging like it's in gear when it croaks. First time I cranked it, the shift indicator lites were working like they should, only one light lit up at a time, depending on which gear you were in. (before they all lit up) After several tries to get it moving, I noticed that ALL of the lights in the dash panel shift indicator were lit again!

No trouble codes with the check engine light sequence except for #12 battery disconnected blah,blah, blah> Checked with OBDII, no codes at all.

What in the world can be the problem? It's gotten new O2 sensors, new MAP, new IAC, new coil and new shift control solenoid. Same as before, cranks and idles great, just dies when you put it in gear.

HELP! I'M ALL OUT OF IDEAS!!! I'M ABOUT TO INTRODUCE THIS FREAKING CAR TO MR. MATCH!!!

wow man,

I'm really stumped. You've replaced everything known to man and still the problem's not fixed. I know you don't feel like spending more money trying to fix it. I wish I could be there to diagnose it; Kudos for getting the valve body back together, not always easy. Only other thing I can possibly think of is a weak fuel pump or pressure regulator.

Hey Freakster, can you give me a list of any possible condition that will cause this, no matter how remote. I'll go back thru and check one at a time. Maybe I missed something. If something is borderline, will some other system shut it down??? I'm a car-racing redneck! I know engines and how to make them go fast, but I haven't dealt with all of these new-fangled electronic controls and computers! I'm a complete idiot with the new electronics.

I can get the car to go if I time the shifting into Reverse or drive just right with the accelerator! But the engine is definatley dying under load of tranny when I mash brake or just don't give it any gas. It stalls and results in jerking. I guess ( maybe an over-simplification) torque convertor works like centrifugal clutch on mini-bike or go cart. speed up and it engages, slow down it stops engaging. Mine is still engaged from the way it's acting. I don't know if another condition will simulate this or not, but the engine definately appears to be stalling under load from tranny.

NEW THOUGHT>>>>>>

I'm such an idiot! What if I jack up front end and engage in drive or reverse. It it runs without stalling, wouldn't that rule out a lot of other possibilities??????


I'm gona have to archive this thread! It's definatley gona be a how-to! (or how-not-to!) Watch it turn out to be something really lame, like a shorted wire. I'd even be happy with just a bad torque converter right now! Or even a bad PCM! ANYTHING....as long as it was DEFINITELY MY PROBLEM!

Don't mind my mouthing! It's days like this I don't know if God's testing me or the Devil is tempting me!

How are you doing i hope you don't mind me butting in and i do realise you and freakster have been attempting repairs but maybe i can help if you keep your foot on accelerator when in gear can you keep it running and if so how far down do you have to push accelerator can you please describe problem over? and if you don't want to i do understand and i will just sit and watch

no problem with me! As you can see, I've gotten no where so far! (except about $500 worth of new parts)

If you go back and read entire thread ( I know it's long) I think problem is well described. To give you the short, My daughters 96 Intrepid started stalling when coming to a stop. It would crank back up but stalling was still a problem. This was just an untermittent thing! Mt daughter would tell me something was wrong, I'd go drive it, and of course, it always drove perfect. Then it became more cronic and I found out she really wasn't imagining things! The check engine light was on so I hooked up OBDII and pulled codes. I don't have notebook with me at the moment, but codes indicated O2 sensors problems as well as MAP. I started with MAP, checked voltage and wound up buying new one. Replaced both O2 sensors (upstream) Cranked car and it was dying when put in gear. Checked fuel pressure, and regulator, they appeared to be within spec. Put on new fuel filter. Checked IAC, it was not within specs so I replaced it. Still nothing. Local mechanic friend suggested coil, what the heck, replaced it too! Still no go! After all of that, the OBDII pulled a new code that it never pulled any time before, shift control solenoid. THAT made sense to me since it was appearing to me that the engine was dying under load, like torque convertor locked-up. Replaced that last night after several day search for diagram on valve body check balls. Still not going.

Now, how far I mash the throttle doesn't seem to be the issue (provided I don't have it so far that I rip-out the tranny) timing the shift and throttle is key. I get the car moving but as soon as I hit the brake or take foot off of accelerator, it's dying what appears to be a painful death. DID I MENTION I CHECKED THE THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR AND IT APPEARED TO BE WELL WITHIN SPEC. ALSO DISCONNECTED IAC TO SEE IF THERE WAS A DIFFERENCE, IT WAS REALLY NOTICABLE.

Anyway, this is where I'm at. At the point of just taking a bat and beating the crap out of it! I know that won't help anything but it sure would relieve some of my frustrations!!!

I'm open for suggestions! If you have any particular questions unanswered, let me know. I'll check or recheck anything, I'm not beyond saying I didn't miss something the first go-round! I worked thru college as a mechanic at Chevy dealership in hometown but left that life in 1982. Still rebuild engines and build "toys" (hotrods, 4x4's, etc) but I'll be the first to tell you I'm an idiot with all of the computer controls on cars now! But, I do have a good digital multimeter (Fluke) and I know how to use it! Also, have OBDII reader, although no codes to read lately.

no problem with me! As you can see, I've gotten no where so far! (except about $500 worth of new parts)

If you go back and read entire thread ( I know it's long) I think problem is well described. To give you the short, My daughters 96 Intrepid started stalling when coming to a stop. It would crank back up but stalling was still a problem. This was just an untermittent thing! Mt daughter would tell me something was wrong, I'd go drive it, and of course, it always drove perfect. Then it became more cronic and I found out she really wasn't imagining things! The check engine light was on so I hooked up OBDII and pulled codes. I don't have notebook with me at the moment, but codes indicated O2 sensors problems as well as MAP. I started with MAP, checked voltage and wound up buying new one. Replaced both O2 sensors (upstream) Cranked car and it was dying when put in gear. Checked fuel pressure, and regulator, they appeared to be within spec. Put on new fuel filter. Checked IAC, it was not within specs so I replaced it. Still nothing. Local mechanic friend suggested coil, what the heck, replaced it too! Still no go! After all of that, the OBDII pulled a new code that it never pulled any time before, shift control solenoid. THAT made sense to me since it was appearing to me that the engine was dying under load, like torque convertor locked-up. Replaced that last night after several day search for diagram on valve body check balls. Still not going.

Now, how far I mash the throttle doesn't seem to be the issue (provided I don't have it so far that I rip-out the tranny) timing the shift and throttle is key. I get the car moving but as soon as I hit the brake or take foot off of accelerator, it's dying what appears to be a painful death. DID I MENTION I CHECKED THE THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR AND IT APPEARED TO BE WELL WITHIN SPEC. ALSO DISCONNECTED IAC TO SEE IF THERE WAS A DIFFERENCE, IT WAS REALLY NOTICABLE.

Anyway, this is where I'm at. At the point of just taking a bat and beating the crap out of it! I know that won't help anything but it sure would relieve some of my frustrations!!!

I'm open for suggestions! If you have any particular questions unanswered, let me know. I'll check or recheck anything, I'm not beyond saying I didn't miss something the first go-round! I worked thru college as a mechanic at Chevy dealership in hometown but left that life in 1982. Still rebuild engines and build "toys" (hotrods, 4x4's, etc) but I'll be the first to tell you I'm an idiot with all of the computer controls on cars now! But, I do have a good digital multimeter (Fluke) and I know how to use it! Also, have OBDII reader, although no codes to read lately.

I'm not sure if you did this in the beginning or not, can't remember, but check your fuel pump again; make sure the voltage & amperage is sufficient.

did you have a no 5 volt signal circuit at map sensor
if so i want you to disconnect a/c pressure transdeucer at lower line at front of engine below passengers side of rad 3 wire sensor just disconnect it. and i did see shifter signal switches in trans cause problem also and wiring harness going to trans on top creating this problem also check rectangular connector on drivers side at trans for shifter signal for moisture or corrosion and remove vacume line to egr valve also

Thanks! I'll check out these things tonight when I get home. Like I said, after all is said and done, watch it wind-up being something really lame!

PS- 1Thunder, I did have 5 volts to MAP and also had voltage on signal wire, that's why I replaced MAP. I also removed vacuum to EGR, and engine stalled from idle (in park) when i manually added vacuum. I'll check other stuff tonight!

1Thunder, I just noticed a mistake in my last post......

I DID NOT have voltage in MAP signal wire on initial test. That's why i replaced it. I do have voltage now.

Ernie (sassee) In case anybody ever wonders, sassee is my youngest child.....my prize Lemon and White Basset Hound!!!

Just for the heck of it.....When I jacked up the car to get under and look at wiring to tranny, i cranked it up and put it in gear. It didn't sound good! wheels weren't spinning as free as I thought they would. Kinda jerky. Occasional noises too. Roaring, scraping. Still cut off when i put on brake. This was an intermittent problem before, now it's a full-time pain. Are these noises sign of bigger problem?? I didn't find any chunkage in tranny pan and fluid wasn't burnt, but I'm really starting to have bad feeling about this.