Generally I don’t replace anything until necessary. I came across this project prior to replacing struts which may require alignment.

1985 Porsche 911 -155K miles, one tie rod end replaced at 36K, other was factory

Note: Stock tie rods have rubber bushings and these were 19 years old.

Parts ordered here: http://www.mainelycustombydesign.com/wheelssuspension.htm
P/N: 930 347 031 01
Cost w/shipping: $118

ASSUMING your front end alignment is good, I followed this procedure to avoid re-alignment. First note the position of your steering wheel while driving straight. You will match the length on new rod to old rod one side at a time.

1) Raise vehicle on both sides, I use 4x4 wood blocks as stands
2) Remove one wheel.
3) Remove rod end from steering arm. I used bottle jack and hammer.
4) Remove skidpan (4 bolts) but not anti-sway bar.
5) Remove spring/band around “outer” portion of boot with small screwdriver. This plate locks the rod to the rack/pinion assembly. Mark position of locking plate on threads with white touch-up paint.
6) Slacken this plate. I used small pipe wrench set to 1 ¾”.
7) Unscrew tie rod (by hand).
8) Remove old boot but leave inner spring/band on rack/pinion for reuse.
9) Match new rod to old one (see below)**
10) Install new rod using high strength (Permatex red) Locktite. Tighten with vice grips.
11) Install boot on rack/pinion.
12) Rotate the rod assembly to get alignment between tie rod end and steering arm. Install tie rod end into arm, tighten, and install cotter pin.
13) Tighten a plastic strap (not provided) around outer portion of boot.
14) Replace skidpan bolts without skidpan.
15) Take a short test drive. If the angle of your steering wheel changed there was a error that must be corrected. (( FYI - On one side I made an ¼” error (4 turns) which caused a shift of about 40 degrees on the steering wheel. I did not mark locking plate position but estimated from the rust.))
16) If all is well, replace second side with skidpan.

** Matching new rod length to old one
a) Lay old & new rod (w/o boot) next to each other and angle new rod (including special spacer) to match old.
b) Carefully measure each one and adjust new until matching old. The key will be to get the locking plate to the original position, I used the rust on threads. ((My final driver side was 12 ¼” and other was 12” exact, for reference.))
c) Tighten locking nut by hand, and don’t move it during next operation.
d) Remove tie rod end, slip on new boot, and replace end. ((It is much easier to match length without boot in place.))
e) Tighten locking nut on tie rod end.
f) Lay old/new rods side by side and do a final check on the length of new rod. Don’t forget to include the special spacer/washer on new rod.


Results: Steering wheel straight and no drift at highway speeds. Steering feels more precise at slower speeds and has less vibration issues at higher.