I was just going to add some new parts to the 305 to get some added hp, but I came across a 350 block bored .030 over, fully cleaned, and painted. Only $100. With my bosses help and some help from summit I plan on building a 383 stroker. I'm guessing around 350-400 hp. Can a 1984 700r4 handle that hp? If not, any ideas for a overdrive trans that can? Also if you have any tips on building the motor I'd appreciate it.
Thanks

I am planning the same thing. 305 to 350 built to 383. 92 caprice wagon. I have only changed my mind 'bout 50x this month on engine. I hope to buy the block and start building early this spring. I will post some pics as to where car is now and some along the way. I will let ya know how it goes.

The 700R4 will handle pretty much anything a TH350 will...but not as it came from the factory, it will need to be rebuilt to handle it. Summit carries a couple of trans rebuild kits fo this. If you have an 84.5+ 700R4 you are good...if it is the earlier one, junk it.

The 700R4 will handle pretty much anything a TH350 will...but not as it came from the factory, it will need to be rebuilt to handle it. Summit carries a couple of trans rebuild kits fo this. If you have an 84.5+ 700R4 you are good...if it is the earlier one, junk it.

By 84.5+ you mean the year right? The car was built in september 84. The only other thing that worries me is that the trans has 120k on it. I just need to know if it will last another 5 to 6k with the new motor. Thanks for you help.

By 84.5+ you mean the year right? The car was built in september 84. The only other thing that worries me is that the trans has 120k on it. I just need to know if it will last another 5 to 6k with the new motor. Thanks for you help.

Yes 1984.5...sept 84 should be good. Well, if you take it easy it should last. You'll be breaking in the engine for the first 1k or so and have to take it easy for that (no 5k neutral drops).
For tips on the engine...go all forged if you plan on NO2 or S/C or turbo. Keep the compression streetable, 9.5:1 with iron heads non MPFI. If it is going to be carbed don't fall for the Holley 750 double, pumper gas mileage will suck. For best mileage and a good kick in the pants when on the floor, a Rochester quadrajet can't be beat.

I wasn't planning on NOS or anything like that. I was going to go with a set of Edelbrock performer aluminum heads. With the flat top pistons I'm getting it should run about 9.6:1 compression which is what I was lookin for. For the carb I've got an Edelbrock 600 cfm Performer w/electric choke. Then I'm using a performer aluminum intake. As far as the cam, I'm not sure yet. I plan on a pretty mild one.

You might want to beef the trannie pump up a bit extra vanes so you have better flow in OD as the stock one is weak on the flow so they guess what and it isn't crow

"You might want to beef the trannie pump up a bit extra vanes so you have better flow in OD as the stock one is weak on the flow so they guess what and it isn't crow"

I know this is old, but I have to bust a myth here regarding the front pumps on these transmissions (700R4 and 2004R) - it matters not whether it's 7-vane, 10-vane or 13-vane. It will pump the same amount of fluid. If you have for example, a pump that displaces 3 cubic inches, with 7 blades on the pump, adding three more for 10 won't make it displace more than 3 cubic inches. What it will do is smooth out the pulsations of the pump, making the output more consistent. In other words, the output of the pump is a product of its displacement and the front pump displacement on all 700R4 pumps is the same.

The reason GM went to a 10-vane rotor from a 7, and later to a 13, is due to the fact that most people want a car that's completely quiet and a 7 vane pump is noisier than a 10-vane pump, due to the larger pulses of pressure.