3800 V-6 olds 88 lss 96 tc light and misfiring again

Started misfiring badly and tc light on at same time 4-5 weeks ago.
Thought was plastic upper intake warpage again, after seeing slight antifreeze leak around intake. It was repl. once at 70k, now 127k. Upon inspect, intake degraded, but not that bad, cleaned up and reused. Read about stepped bushing kit from Au-Ve-Co, but couldn't get asap. Made my own kit from bronze bushing and existing aluminum tube epoxied in. Changed to 180 deg. thermostat, as well. Repl. wires(2nd time) and plugs(1st time). Repl. fuel injector o'rings with o'reillys borg warner's, I think. Changed antifreeze, and oil. Car ran perfect, TC light was off. Thought I was genius. Started misfiring badly and tc light came on driving interstate in rain. Car rattles/vibrates badly. I think needs passenger axle repl. as well. Is it possible the TC is disabled if car is running poorly or vibration is bad? Any ideas where I should start on the poor running condition??? Thanks.

Ignition coils are very likely suspect (because they are susceptible to rain, especially when on their way out). It is possible (I'm assuming TC stands for Traction Control) that the computer is sensing a misfire, and blaming it on the TC system, which likely relies on signals from the ICM to function properly. But, I definately recommend checking to be sure that the coils are working first, and that the spark plugs and cables don't need replacing again.

THANKS FOR THE REPLY MASTERMIND:

I was curious about the coil packs. I removed one and studied it without a clue, but I don't know how to check. It has two female internal connectors. Any ideas? If the coil packs are going bad, could it fry the wires? If thats true that would make sense. Also, added STP fuel injector cleaner a few days before. Couldn't tell a difference. Checked new spark plug wires resistance. Actually, checked the 3 on the front of the motor and found very low resistance. Thought that was bad. Went to Autozone and got another set of wires. Replaced the 3 on the front so far and problem was fixed, or so I thought. It was about 24 degrees. Two hours later, upon restart started missing again, but as I drove it, it straitened out. I have driven the car 500 miles since then in rain and sun, and it mostly is running well, but occasionally, the Traction control light comes on and it starts missing again, but then it straightens itself out. I am going to attempt to change the axle today, so I can try to cure the huge vibration issue. It is not running perfect but, it is better, but I still think I am missing something(no pun intended).

J-red

If you have type 2 coil assembly (3 separate coils):

The coils are easy to check. Use a pair of rubber gloves, while the car is running pull one of the wires off one of the coils. If there is no spark, weak spark, or unneaven spark, the coil is bad. If you pull the wire, and the car dies, the coil is likely fine, assuming that the others aren't. Each coil must produce a violent, rapid even paced blue spark. If one doesn't, just replace it. If you pull one wire and the idle barely changes, and a different coil being disconnected caused the car to die, the current coil isn't putting out a sufficient spark, and should be replaced.

Mastermind,

Replaced passenger cv axle over the weekend by myself. Ripped ball joint boot, but too tired to drill out rivets and replace. Will have to wait for another time. Definitely a 2 man job. Why does the lower A-arm have so much tension on it? Just curious. After cv replacement, vibration issue was only slightly better. Disappointing... Replaced front tire on drivers side, much better. Most vibration is gone. I'll take 90%. It had gotten to the point where I could no longer drive it. A log wagon would have been more pleasurable. Plan to replace roaring rear tires when funds allow, but will learn to tolerate for now. Drove the car on Mon and Tues. with smoother ride and motor mostly running Ok. Started up Wed. morning and it would not idle or run well at all. Going up hills was a slow, shuddering experience. Limped around 200 miles today. TC lite on and off all day. This evening, checked coil packs per your instructions and had the 3 and 6 coil pack not put out any spark. Replaced with Sorensen OEM pack from Advance Auto, $19.95
with 1 year replacement warranty. It was retained by only one screw, and has been at least for the last 90k. Go figure. There were other higher cost options, but between Autozone, O'reilly's, and Advance, this was the best option in my opinion. Least cost with 1 yr warranty. Definitely the easiest thing I have R&R, once I found out it was bad. I still need to flush the transmission. Maybe this weekend. For now, and it could change tomorrow, it is running fairly well. Thanks for the help.

I have had an electrical issue with it for several years. It blows the dash lites, 10 amp, I think, on a regular basis. I carry extra with me. Also,
the radio has a mind of its own. Currently it is stuck on one station and the volume is stuck where you can't hear it. Helpful. Don't know if it is a short issue or just a lousy radio. Possibly unrelated, since December, it would not start on Monday's if I did not drive it over the weekend after parking it Friday. Testing of the battery turned out good. Tested alternator and it was bad. Replaced alternator, and was fine for almost a month, then it did it again this week on Monday. Had battery tested again and it was fine. Who knows? I am beginning to wonder if "Its paid for" means anything when I spend too many of my off hours researching and attempting to fix. Rant! I am amused that when it won't start, I jump it off with my once a month started and driven round the block, 80 FORD F100, straight six, every time.

It's possible that the radio is just bad, but it's also possible that some wires might be pinched under the dash. Just try taking out the radio and disconnecting it for a while (see if the car stops blowing dash light). If removing the radio fixes your electrical issues, get a different one from a salvage yard. If it does the same thing, there is something pinched or shorted together somewhere under the dash, but related to the stereo wires.
Drilling out the rivets on the ball joint can be done without a second person. About the axles, when you buy them, make sure there isn't even the slightest bit of looseness in the joints! To check, turn the ends back and forth in opposite directions. If you can feel ANY looseness, or movement, don't get that particular axle. That will cause vibrations.