95 Liftgate Won't Open

I put in some Chevron high test and ran it through the car wash and now the liftgate won't open. It's the gas, right ? I can hear what sounds like an electric motor inside the tailgate running up and then stalling against the load. How do I get access to check out the problem ? Will the interior panel come off with the tailgate closed?

Thanks
500

Hope you are kidding.

If you are trying to be a smart ass, this thread will be closed fast.

I think thread 1247 gives me the info on how to get the liftgate to open from the inside.

Sorry if humor is not allowed, I was not aware.

Thanks for the helpful reply.
500

lol, you post a confusing question and you think I am going to apologise for not taking it seriously?

kthx

Drain that Chevron high test out instantly! The combination of increased aerodynamics and extra power is twisting the body and jamming the tailgate.

will the glass not shut all the way too? if so i know what it is, but see if u glass hatch doesnt shut

whoops i think i read this one wrong,

I just don't get the real question to this thread.

The pertinent thread is actually 1254 not 1247. I just went to the dealership and the little plastic bit is not available, you have to buy the whole actuator for $60.00. I came home and reread 1254 and see that he basically said the same thing.

I think I will do some jury rigging. I fly RC planes and have lots of tiny screws. Or I may drill some .040 holes in the plastic bit and run some .041 safety wire through them and through the hole in the actuator lever.

The micro fiche shows the plastic bit but says it is not serviced :-(

Here's what I did:

Drilled 2 .040 holes in the blue plastic bit close to where it clips onto the actuator. Drilled in the center of the reinforcing rib. The rib is a bit thicker up near the end towards the actuator.

Drilled one .040 hole right down the center of the plastic peg that goes in the slot in the lever.

Run an 8" piece of .032 stainless safety wire up through the bottom of the plastic bits. The ends of the wire will be on the same side of the plastic piece { pp from now on } as the round peg. You can adjust the 90 degree bends in the wire to hold the pp at the correct length.

Install the pp up through the slot in the lever. Make sure you have the pp facing toward your right.

Clip the pp onto the actuator.

Bend the ends of the safety wire towards one another and then start twisting the wire ends together. Safety wire pliers work best this of course. Go slow.

As the wire is shortened use some pliers to carefully bend the wire 90 degrees where it exits the pp at each end. To fully tighten the wire use your pliers to grip the wire as close as possible to the pp. Turn the last bit by hand.

When everything looks good cut off the excess wire leaving about 1.5 inches. Bend this over on itself about 1/2 way up the twisted section. This will lock it better.

Run another piece of wire from the 2nd hole in the pp to the slot in the lever and twist the ends together. Don't over tighten this loop, it is just to take a little stress off the main repair.

This is a long winded post but once you start your repair it will be obvious what needs to be done.

You know when i hit stuff with a really big hammer, it seems to work just fine on my '75 K5. maybe you should try too!

You know when i hit stuff with a really big hammer, it seems to work just fine on my '75 K5. maybe you should try too!

Your 75 is made a lot better than the newer ones !! Hit the newer ones with a hammer and something STOPS working !! :-) I would love to have a Qjet or a Holley and a basic HEI distributor on my 4.3. Jet the carb a little lean on the primaries, a little rich on the secondaries to compensate, recurve the dist and run forever.

500

There's pretty much two threads so I'll just throw this in here from the other one --

I will be performing the operation on my 01 Blazer tonight or later this weekend... I'm going to try to take as many pics as possible and document then throw it back up here. Some kind of effort to try to thank the people before me and helpt he people after.

Lots of pics and instructions on what I needed to do on my Blazer 01...

http://s90009340.onlinehome.us/blazer_hatch/

Any issues or suggestions email me -- I don't check this forum often.

how do I find the 1254 thread to get the rear gate panel off from the inside? Thanks

I'm having the same problem with my '96 Blazer. How do you get the rear panel off when the liftgate won't open?

This has been covered a few times. I assume you have the tailgate/glass hatch and not the liftgate. The problem occurs when the plastic clip connecting the electric accuator to the linkage breaks. The actuator still works but is no longer connected to the linkage to open the glass. You can't get the panel off with the tailgate closed because there is a screw on each end of it that are only accessable when the tailgate is down. Your only option without destroying the panel (unless those two screws are missing, then the panel will come off) is to carefully peel back the capet insert. There is an access hole in the metal panel that you can use to get at the latch and release the glass. Then remove the pastic and metal panel to access the actuator. You have two options: either get a replacement clip from a junk yard (with the possibility of the problem happening again) or go to the dealer and get the updated actuator and clip (part # 15139675, $70).

BTW, this thread is over 3 years old now. please refrain from bringing back old threads.