Choke Problem...
Butcher52
01-27-2005, 01:49 AM
Ok first of all I have a 1985 S10 with the 2.8 engine and it is carb.
Does this blazer have one of those heat plates under the carb? The choke light is on and the vehicle runs terrible cause the choke is not opening all the way and when I block it open it has a real bad hesitation in on take off. Also when I put it in 4 wheel drive it has a real high whining sound. any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thank You
butcher52
Does this blazer have one of those heat plates under the carb? The choke light is on and the vehicle runs terrible cause the choke is not opening all the way and when I block it open it has a real bad hesitation in on take off. Also when I put it in 4 wheel drive it has a real high whining sound. any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thank You
butcher52
Mikado14
01-27-2005, 09:34 AM
Ok first of all I have a 1985 S10 with the 2.8 engine and it is carb.
Does this blazer have one of those heat plates under the carb? The choke light is on and the vehicle runs terrible cause the choke is not opening all the way and when I block it open it has a real bad hesitation in on take off. Also when I put it in 4 wheel drive it has a real high whining sound. any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thank You
butcher52
Yes, your's should have the heater unless someone removed it. Your description sounds correct in that the problem is carb related. There used to be a Jiffy kit for that carb and I did one last year when we swapped a boneyard engine. Memory serves me correctly, it was a real pain, but was successful. If you have any experience with carbs, I would say give it a try.
As to the whine, have you checked your fluid levels in front diff and the xfer case?
Does this blazer have one of those heat plates under the carb? The choke light is on and the vehicle runs terrible cause the choke is not opening all the way and when I block it open it has a real bad hesitation in on take off. Also when I put it in 4 wheel drive it has a real high whining sound. any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thank You
butcher52
Yes, your's should have the heater unless someone removed it. Your description sounds correct in that the problem is carb related. There used to be a Jiffy kit for that carb and I did one last year when we swapped a boneyard engine. Memory serves me correctly, it was a real pain, but was successful. If you have any experience with carbs, I would say give it a try.
As to the whine, have you checked your fluid levels in front diff and the xfer case?
OverBoardProject
01-28-2005, 02:40 AM
I removed that heater plate from mine, and put in the replacement gasket (same thickness)... It runs fine without it, and that thing looks so restrictive.
Popping the top off the carb isn't too hard, and then spray in carb cleaner everywhere inside. Watch out with the linkage, it only works 1 way, but wants to go together the wrong way.
Replacement carbs are PRICY, and they are hard to remove, and replace. You can barely turn thoe nuts with a wrench, and a socket won't fit on . If I remember corectly you have to remove the EGR to get the last nut off.
Popping the top off the carb isn't too hard, and then spray in carb cleaner everywhere inside. Watch out with the linkage, it only works 1 way, but wants to go together the wrong way.
Replacement carbs are PRICY, and they are hard to remove, and replace. You can barely turn thoe nuts with a wrench, and a socket won't fit on . If I remember corectly you have to remove the EGR to get the last nut off.
Butcher52
01-30-2005, 01:22 AM
I removed that heater plate from mine, and put in the replacement gasket (same thickness)... It runs fine without it, and that thing looks so restrictive.
Popping the top off the carb isn't too hard, and then spray in carb cleaner everywhere inside. Watch out with the linkage, it only works 1 way, but wants to go together the wrong way.
Replacement carbs are PRICY, and they are hard to remove, and replace. You can barely turn thoe nuts with a wrench, and a socket won't fit on . If I remember corectly you have to remove the EGR to get the last nut off.
Thank you very much for the info. I did what you told me to do and it worked out fine. The only thing is now is replacing that darn heat plate.
Popping the top off the carb isn't too hard, and then spray in carb cleaner everywhere inside. Watch out with the linkage, it only works 1 way, but wants to go together the wrong way.
Replacement carbs are PRICY, and they are hard to remove, and replace. You can barely turn thoe nuts with a wrench, and a socket won't fit on . If I remember corectly you have to remove the EGR to get the last nut off.
Thank you very much for the info. I did what you told me to do and it worked out fine. The only thing is now is replacing that darn heat plate.
OverBoardProject
01-30-2005, 01:43 AM
I'm glad that it worked out for you, and I'm always happy to help out when I can.
I don't have any tip on removing the carb, to remove that heat plate... when I had my engine out it wasn't too bad to work on, but it was sure a pain to remove the carb with the engine in
I don't have any tip on removing the carb, to remove that heat plate... when I had my engine out it wasn't too bad to work on, but it was sure a pain to remove the carb with the engine in
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