hi, my ford escort goes fine for twenty minutes before developing jerks and jumps. the problem is worse on aceleration and deceleration. when stationery at traffic lights etc idle moves violently from 8rpm to 12rpm occasionaly dropping to 2-4 rpm. however once the jerking has started if i keep the car at constant speed and below 30 miles an hour the problem is less noticeable. the problem used to come and go happening about once a week however its now a daily occurence. there are no other problems with the car 66000 miles on clock and starts first time every time. spark plugs were changed 10 months ago, i really need help i am a student nurse and have to travel 40 minuites to work every day. do you think this will be an expensive problem to fix my husband is quite handy with cars however he is stumped, thanks for any suggestions

hi, my ford escort goes fine for twenty minutes before developing jerks and jumps. the problem is worse on aceleration and deceleration. when stationery at traffic lights etc idle moves violently from 8rpm to 12rpm occasionaly dropping to 2-4 rpm. however once the jerking has started if i keep the car at constant speed and below 30 miles an hour the problem is less noticeable. the problem used to come and go happening about once a week however its now a daily occurence. there are no other problems with the car 66000 miles on clock and starts first time every time. spark plugs were changed 10 months ago, i really need help i am a student nurse and have to travel 40 minuites to work every day. do you think this will be an expensive problem to fix my husband is quite handy with cars however he is stumped, thanks for any suggestions

how about plug wires? when were they replaced? check/replace them also sounds like a vaccum line somewhere could be off

will check plug wires, unsure what a vaccum line is

will check plug wires, unsure what a vaccum line is

dont just look at the plug wires test them if you can if you cant remember when they were replaced you hsould go ahead and replace them and be more then 25.00. One way you can check is at nighttime while the car is running open the hood and see if you notice any sparks jumping out of the plug wires often called "arcing"

I had a similar problem with my Escort. Put on new plug wires and the problem went away as Jet-Lee recommended. Car runs like a new one. Also you may want to change the PCV valve as it may be going bad. This can cause a rough idle when hot.

I had a similar problem with my Escort. Put on new plug wires and the problem went away as Jet-Lee recommended. Car runs like a new one. Also you may want to change the PCV valve as it may be going bad. This can cause a rough idle when hot.

i agree with gtp dad. I once had a car that ran fine till hot then come to find out when it was hot there was enough movement that a plug wire shorting out on the motor.

seperate car i had ran/idle was rought and pcv valve corrected it.

plugs/wires......and that nighttime test doesn't always work, nor does running your hand along the wires to feel a shock....lol, those 50,000 volt shocks are pretty nice, especially when you've been workin ur ass off for 3 weeks tryin to figure out why your car chugs....

plugs/wires......and that nighttime test doesn't always work, nor does running your hand along the wires to feel a shock....lol, those 50,000 volt shocks are pretty nice, especially when you've been workin ur ass off for 3 weeks tryin to figure out why your car chugs....

are you speaking from experiance???? When I first got my car it would buck every time I went into second. no biggie. well one evening I had the hood up and I re tucked a plug wire into a wire loom and when I grabbed it I got zapped. So I then desecided to replace the plugs and wires (I hadnt done it yet from the time I bought the car) Wouldn't ya know after I replaced them I dont buck anymore?

are you speaking from experiance???? When I first got my car it would buck every time I went into second. no biggie. well one evening I had the hood up and I re tucked a plug wire into a wire loom and when I grabbed it I got zapped. So I then desecided to replace the plugs and wires (I hadnt done it yet from the time I bought the car) Wouldn't ya know after I replaced them I dont buck anymore?
lmao...yup, goin from experience. That's how I check 'em, just run my hand across them. If I get shocked, they get replaced, simple.

lmao...yup, goin from experience. That's how I check 'em, just run my hand across them. If I get shocked, they get replaced, simple.

get replaced with 9mm wires right-lol

get replaced with 9mm wires right-lol
HAHA....nah, at the time it was the 8's, cuz they were warrantied. After the 3rd set of 8's I got a free upgrade to 9's and haven't had a problem since. I'm actually goin home today to stick some 5k ohm resistors on switches on my IAT and ECT sensors. Make it look all nice from inside. 3 switches - IMRC (more air), IAT (Ignition Advance), ECT (more fuel)....hehehe

hi changing plugs and wires worked for two weeks now problem is back additonally the ignition light now comes on when turning corners, help

hi changing plugs and wires worked for two weeks now problem is back additonally the ignition light now comes on when turning corners, help

connection problem or even an arcing problem. get the code if the light is coming on. Check your coil pack coil ignition module which ever your car has.

hi changing plugs and wires worked for two weeks now problem is back additonally the ignition light now comes on when turning corners, help

tajsaj,
The root cause could be an incorrect air/fuel mixture caused by a sluggish or bad emission sensor. I suggest you take the car to AutoZone and have them 'read' the Onboard Computer for fault codes. This strategy will minimize your repair cost.

Alvin

PUT 9MM PLUG WIRES ON. 8mm WILL fry.