2001 Intrepid R/T stalls when slowing down

Any suggestions/help would be appreciated, so here goes:

Two months ago, my Intrepid suddenly started to die when slowing down. I narrowed this problem down and found that it only occurs after traveling high speeds when the car is warm (after running for 10 minutes or so). Even though it dies, I get no error codes and the car starts right back up, no problem. I took it to a local shop and they cleaned the entire fuel system, but this did not fix the problem.

Next, the shop decided it had to be the idle motor. I found out today that this is not the problem either, as it died on them after installing the new one.

I must mention that the car is perfectly driveable until you slow down from high speeds. Actually, if I slow the car down by downshifting with Autostick to keep the RPMs up, I can come to a complete stop and the car will be just fine.

I'm so frustrated and puzzled. Any thoughts? Thanks!

You have a bad torque converter clutch solenoid. Unfortunately, with the Chrysler A-606 42LE transmissions, the entire solenoid assembly must be replaced on these transmissions; which is mounted inside the tranny bolted to the valve body.

i also have the exact same problem , even though i had the car for two days and then the engine blew out , it happend after i got off the free way . Ok , drive the car around the hood for 10 min. then come to a complete stop , then put it in Reverse if the car turns off , then u gota problem with your Torque converter , if not , let me know . by the way does the oil light flashes every once and a while ?

I am picking the car up today, so I will try that out. My mechanic highly doubts it's the torque converter because the car dies very smoothly, no shaking at all. My oil light does come on when it dies, of course, but that's the ONLY time it comes on. And, we're still not getting any fault codes either.

My 2000 R/T is doing the same thing. Just changed the plugs had the throttle body cleaned and the engine computer as well as the trans comp flashed with updated software and the dam thing almost stalled again this morning. I drive about 40 minutes to work on the highway, only stalls at the end of my ride, same as yours. PLEASE post the out come of your recent service. My powertrain warrenty is almost out, I'm at 62,000. Also no codes or oil lights.

I am picking the car up today, so I will try that out. My mechanic highly doubts it's the torque converter because the car dies very smoothly, no shaking at all. My oil light does come on when it dies, of course, but that's the ONLY time it comes on. And, we're still not getting any fault codes either.

When you go to your mechanic, ask him if he has access to a Chrysler DRB III scanner; with that scanner, he can physically test and see for himself if the TCC solenoid is bad. When a TCC is stuck, when it slows down, you won't feel any bucking or hesitation, it'll just stall out the engine. But if he wants, he can check out the fuel system for impurities. But it's been my experience that TCC solenoids do have a tendency to fail.

I was told by the dealer today that they drove the car for 30 miles and NOTHING happened...never died once, yet I got it to die yesterday on the way to the dealer. They told me that they could not tell me anything concrete until the check engine light comes on, which it never has once with this problem. So for now, I'm stuck with the car as is. I'm hoping I can find someone that will be able to figure this out.

As far as the TCC solenoid problem, I've had no trouble with the transmission at all yet, and driving for a while, then stopping and shifting into reverse doesn't kill the car either, so hopefully that means everything in the tranny is fine.

The dealer suggested it could be an oxygen sensor, but they're completely guessing at this point. I'm going to wait a few weeks now and take it elsewhere. I'll post the rest of what happens as I know more.

Check your camshaft position sensor plug , maybe need to replace the plug , its located in front off the engine , staright inbetween the radiator and the motor , i think thats the problem , becuase the same thing happend to me too , am not sure if your will be the same , but you might wanna check that one out , i hope this can help

I just got the car back from another dealer I tried and they determined it to be the Throttle Position Sensor. They tweaked it and it now runs just fine and doesn't die when I slow down. However, now when I'm idling, the car rumbles just a bit. I'm going to take it back and see if they can fix this, or perhaps just replace it. Thanks for all the help, and I hope this helps someone!!!

My dealer still hasn't figured it out. I've been told that they can't (or won't) replace anything under warranty since they have no codes. They tell me that Chrysler won't reimburse them if the part they replace is fine. What a pain in the a**. It’s interesting that yours is running fine after the tweak to the Throttle positioning sensor. I was not aware that there was an adjustment for it. I noticed this morning that even in neutral my car was about to die so I think that takes the TCC off the list. I also noticed if I do let it stall it seems to run fine afterwards, for a while any way. Almost like something is getting reset.
Thanks for the post jaybob, I'm going to see if I can get the dealer to look at the Throttle positioning sensor.

I just got the car back from another dealer I tried and they determined it to be the Throttle Position Sensor. They tweaked it and it now runs just fine and doesn't die when I slow down. However, now when I'm idling, the car rumbles just a bit. I'm going to take it back and see if they can fix this, or perhaps just replace it. Thanks for all the help, and I hope this helps someone!!!

If the dealer told you that they "tweaked" your throttle position sensor, then they're full of crap. You can't "tweak" or adjust that sensor on either the 2.7 or 3.2/3.5 V6, in fact for that matter, on ANY Chrysler engine. They REPLACED the sensor. On some import models, you can adjust the TPS to set timing, and that's about it. If they said that, they were just blowing smoke up your tail just to get you off their tails.

Well, they told me they adjusted it and it doesn't stall anymore. They did not charge me for a TPS either, so I'm sure they didn't install a new one. Only new parts I got were spark plugs. They had the diagnostics hooked up to it and were getting a low reading from the TPS, and that's how they found it. How or if they tweaked it beats me.

HOWEVER, the car is still acting up. It does NOT stall anymore at all. But, after driving it for a while, it shakes badly when I'm idling, and the check engine light came on. Took it to AdvanceAuto to grab the codes out of it real quick, and I got the following:

Global OBDII Machine

P0172 - System Too Rich (Bank 1)
P0175 - System Too Rich (Bank 2)
P0404 - EGR Flow and CKT Range/Perf

I should note that the very first time the car stalled 3 months ago, the only code I got out of it was the "System Too Rich" error code. But since then, no codes until now.

I'm going to take it back to the dealer and have them replace the TPS, and probably end up replacing the EGR as well. Never thought it was the EGR since I couldn't get a code for it, but at least now I do. Other than the shaking though, it drives like a champ.

SOLUTION
===============
It was, afterall, the EGR valve. Too bad the computer took forever to tell me that. The dealer replaced the EGR valve and it runs great now. Hope this helps. Thanks for all of the help and suggestions.

OMG, This is SO similar to the problem ad paths that I have been going through.
My 2003 Chrysler Concorde Limited locks into "Limp-in mode" when slowing down to around 25 miles or less (or starting up above 25 miles after a sucessful slow down w/o a "Limp-in lock-up")
This ONLY happens after the car is warm (like driving around for more than 10 miles or 10 mins).
Coming to a complete stop, placing trans in Park and restarting the engine removes it from "Limp-in lock-up" until the next time that I have to slow down to a stop.
The Trans shop said that it was the Valve Body (associated L/R solenoid thingy) and replaced said part for about $800.00.
This did not fix the problem.
They are now telling me that the clutches are worn thin and need to be replaced claiming that is why it shutters (THOUGH it does not shutter and they did not experience it shuttering) and now want $1200.00 to replace the clutches...

HELP

Thanks to all those who supplied information about this stalling problem. My 2001 Intrepid R/T (117K miles) started stalling when it should have idled when slowing down the car. I tried following other advice to clean the IAC valve, but that didn't help. I went to buy a new EGR valve but couldn't. Chrysler ($190) had none and neither did the aftermarket ($145). So I tried cleaning the valve with oven cleaner by spraying it in the inlet side of the valve repeatly until only clean foam came out. also used a spray from a water hose to blast out as much crude as possible (and plenty of carbon flakes came out). Also took some 12ga stranded electrical wire made into a sort of probe to scrap and scratch whatever I could from the valve (it's around an elbow so you can't see it).
Reinstalled the EGR valve with new inlet gasket and the first 10 miles it would hardly idle at all. But I could save the engine from dying by applying more throttle. Finally the valve cleared itself and the next 100 miles (so far) show the problem is solved. No more stalling. So for those that can't find a new EGR valve, try cleaning it well and you may be lucky too.:wink:

hello i have a similar problem. inn my intrepid 2000 engine 2.7 ... my car doesnt die ... the problem is the idle too low ... n sometimes the car shakes whein a red light .. what i noticed the iat wiring is damage .. so am gonna change the connector today .. any suggestion ????:shakehead

LOL K 6 years latter looks like And Same old Problem, my intrepid 2000 engine 2.7 only 110 K ... my car starts , runs great, idles fine, It has sat a lot , and just went thru emissions no problem, no codes .. but on way to shop would stall at lights or when slowing to turn corner, drove it other day and did again few times was with my mechanic whos usually a wizz, but of course when he was with me even under hard breaking wouldn't do it every time, so were baffled, Just wondering if now 6 years latter if anyone has figured this out or has a definitive solution?