I am doing a rear disc conversion on my 1993 Civic 4-door, and was just wondering what e-brake cable to get. Do I have to get a different one then a 2-door with rear brakes or do I use the same one. Thanks for any help guys.

Will someone please help me out, I don't want to get the wrong cable.

I am doing a rear disc conversion on my 1993 Civic 4-door, and was just wondering what e-brake cable to get. Do I have to get a different one then a 2-door with rear brakes or do I use the same one. Thanks for any help guys.


YES. I CONVERTED MINE. I GOT ALL MY PARTS AT ECOLOGY WRECKING YARD (PULL YOUR OWN PARTS). YOU NEED THE BACK PLATE, WHEEL HUB, CALIPER, HOSE, HANDBRAKE CABLE AND OF COURSE THE ROTOR.

Do I need a handbrake cable off any civic with rear disc brakes, or do the cables need to be off a 4-door with disc rear disc brakes, if they even exist.

Do I need a handbrake cable off any civic with rear disc brakes, or do the cables need to be off a 4-door with disc rear disc brakes, if they even exist.


YES ANY CIVIC REAR DICK BRAKE WILL WORK. OH JUST TO LET YOU KNOW HOW MUCH I SPENT ON MY DISCBRAKE CONVERSION. IT COST ME A TOTAL OF ABOUT $130 INCLUDING THE NEW CERAMIC DISC PAD I BOUGHT AT SOME AUTOPART.

IF YOU BUY YOUR CONVERSION PARTS ON THE NET, IT WILL COST YOU ABOUT $800.

I got the whole trailing arm assembly for $100, an adjustable proportioning valve for $45, master cylinder for $120, and the cables that I haven't gotten yet.

I got the whole trailing arm assembly for $100, an adjustable proportioning valve for $45, master cylinder for $120, and the cables that I haven't gotten yet.

THE PARKING BRAKE CABLE IS ABOUT $10 EACH. I THINK YOU CAN ALSO USE THE CABLE FOR INTEGRA. THEY LOOK THE SAME BUT I DID NOT MEASURE IF THEYRE THE SAME LENGHT. OH AND I DID NOT MESS WITH MY PROPORTIONING VALVE AND MASTER CYLINDER. I DONT THINK YOU NEED TO REPLACE YOURS BECAUSE REAR BRAKES ONLY NEED ABOUT 10 PERCENT OF BRAKING FORCE AND THE 90 PERCENT FORCE IS FOR THE FRONT. MY CAR DOESNT NOSE DIVE WHEN I STEP HARD ON MY BRAKE PEDAL.

I'm setting up my car for racing. I don't want the rear to lock up on me before the front. That's really bad. Drum brakes take more fluid or pressure to work. If you don't change the proportioning valve there is too much pressure going to the rear and the rear wheels might lock up. Wilwood sells an adjustable valve for like $42 and thats what I'm getting. I'm willing to put in extra money since it will count on the track. My next step is integra front brakes.

I'm setting up my car for racing. I don't want the rear to lock up on me before the front. That's really bad. Drum brakes take more fluid or pressure to work. If you don't change the proportioning valve there is too much pressure going to the rear and the rear wheels might lock up. Wilwood sells an adjustable valve for like $42 and thats what I'm getting. I'm willing to put in extra money since it will count on the track. My next step is integra front brakes.


THATS WHAT I WAS TRYING TO SAY, JUST AFTER I DID THE DISCBRAKE CONVERSION, I TESTED MY CAR AT HIGH SPEED AND IT DIDNT DO ANY NOSE DIVE NOR REAR WHEEL LOCK-UP. SO I DID NOT TOUCH MY METERING VALVE, PROPORTIONAL VALVE AND MASTER CYLINDER. YOU CAN CHANGE YOURS IF YOU WANT BUT I THINK YOURE JUST WASTING YOUR TIME AND MONEY.

I'll try it out first. Thanks for all the help.