1996 Dodge Grand Caravan LE AC/Heater Blower, Relay and Resistor Block Problems 101

HeadlessHorseman

01-02-2005, 07:09 PM

Last updated 22-February-2006 (See Document Revision History)

Introduction... Although these procedures were originally written specifically for the 1996 Dodge Grand Caravan LE, they have been updated to apply to all 1996, 1997 and 1998 Dodge Caravan, Plymouth Voyager and Chrysler Town & Country Mini-vans.

Additional helpful notes for other model years are scattered throughout this document. You can print this document or link to it... but be advised, I will continue to update this post as necessary with corrections, new and/or additional helpful information and any special notes.

Before you get started, you should run your VIN through Dodge's Recall Check Procedure. The results of this check may (or may not) have some bearing on your current problem and your Dealer may have to fix it FREE by law. To find out if your vehicle has any current unperformed or incomplete recalls or customer satisfaction notifications, get the last 8 characters of your VIN and go here to make sure that your vehicle has had ALL of its recall work done:
http://www-5.dodge.com/webselfservice/dodg...rm%28%27R%27%29 (http://www-5.dodge.com/webselfservice/dodge/index.jsp?screenName=recall&country=us&emailUrl=goToEmailForm%28%27R%27%29)

As an aside, here is a compiled list of helpful information sources which can be found in forums of various web sites and user communities (including this one):
http://www.allpar.com/forums/index.php?showforum=16
http://www.autobanter.com/forumdisplay.php?f=23
http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=47
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/...splay.php?f=139 (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/forumdisplay.php?f=139)
http://www.dodgeforum.com/forumid_30/tt.htm

And lastly, please read through this entire document to familiarize yourself with what it covers and what it does not cover. Your job will be a whole lot easier if you do... really.

Document Revision History... has been removed from the top and placed at the end of this document. If you find/found this document useful, please say so, even if you have to create a login ID to do so!... friends, that ALSO means that if you have information for model years or part numbers not mentioned in this document, please show your appreciation and post it so WE can make this document better than it already is! Check out the posts in this thread and the Revision History and you will see many names of thoughtful contributors... this document has become a collaborative effort!... thanks to YOU (and Chrysler engineering who made it necessary in the first place, of course :rolleyes: ).

So, THANK YOU EVERYONE, in advance, for SHARING! :)... special thanks to ksflatfoot, clrbrown, Parky50, pwilliams517, John Wood, carolinaquestions, and most recently, Stevo2 for contributing pictures, source information and helpful comments regarding these procedures. Thanks to your thoughtful contributions, you have helped make this thread the hottest thread on the forum!

Good News for 1992-1995 and 1997-2005 Caravan, T&C and Voyager Owners... Complete success has also been achieved by owners of newer Caravans, T&Cs and Voyagers (1997-2005) and owners of earlier models (1992-1995) who have used the following information as a guide, instead of following step-by-step procedures. These owners resolved their AC/Heater Blower issues even though physical locations of certain components and their part numbers were different.

So, my fellow DIYers, take heart!... Woo-Hoo!

Also, these procedures are intended to cover only the most common AC/Heater Blower issues... electrical shorts, mis-wiring and other "extraordinary" issues are NOT covered in these procedures.

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
There are 4 things that usually cause an AC/Heater Blower Motor to misbehave or stop working altogether...
1. A BLOWN 40Amp fuse,
2. A BURNED-out Resistor Block,
3. A BAD Blower Motor Relay, AND/OR
4. A WORN-out Blower Motor.
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
Question #1 - Does your AC/Heater Blower Motor work in high-speed only or possibly some other speed as well, but NOT all speeds?
Probable Cause: Bad/Corroded RESISTOR BLOCK.
Solution: Replace Resistor Block.
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
Question #2 - Does your AC/Heater Blower Motor NOT work AT ALL?
Probable Cause: Blown 40AMP FUSE, bad Resistor Block, bad Blower Motor RELAY and/or bad Blower MOTOR.
Solution: Inspect 40AMP fuse, replace if necessary. Inspect the Resistor Block and replace if necessary. If both 40 AMP fuse and Resistor Block are OK, replace the Blower Motor Relay FIRST. Then replace the Blower Motor, if necessary. Frankly though, I would replace BOTH Blower Motor Relay AND Blower Motor at the same time because a bad/marginal relay can cause a good motor to behave like a bad one and a good relay can also make a marginal motor temporarily appear better than it really is.
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
Question #3 - Does your AC/Heater Blower Motor seem to "growl," run slow or stop altogether AFTER running for awhile, though sometimes it seems by turning it off and waiting awhile the problem resolves itself, but only temporarily?
Probable Cause: Blower Motor RELAY contacts are burned or pitted, Blower MOTOR brushes worn and/or bad bearing in Blower MOTOR.
Solution: Replace Blower Motor Relay, then Blower Motor, if necessary, preferably, both the Blower Motor Relay and Blower Motor at the SAME time.
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
Question #4 - Does your AC/Heater Blower Motor continue to run after the engine is turned off and the key is removed from the ignition?
Probable Cause: Blower Motor RELAY contacts are "welded" in the closed position and refuse to cut power to the Blower Motor.
Solution: Replace Blower Motor Relay.
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

PART NUMBERS, MANUFACTURERS & POINT of PURCHASE

40AMP Fuse:This is available at one of the stores I mention below and/or at your dealer. Chris of RockAuto.Com emailed and told me "We do not carry the fuses for your car. Those are something you will need to purchase locally or at a dealership." Stevo2 at AutomotiveForums.Com says "If the 40 amp fuse is a Maxi-fuse than it is available from these places also. NAPA-BK 7821079 Kragen, Checker, Shucks, Rockauto-MAX40 Mopar-6101641." I am guesstimating that they cost somewhere between $1-$3USD each.

Resistor Block:
OEM=by my Dodge dealer was $16USD which includes 6% CT state sales tax);
http://www.RockAuto.Com - Standard Motor Products Part=RU93 ($15.40 + $5.63 Shipping)
NOTE 1: OEM Part# for the 2001 Caravan is 4885583-AB RESISTOR 8035022 (Thank you Parky50!)
NOTE 2: OEM Part# for the 2005 Caravan is 4885583AC.
(Thank you pwilliams517 at http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showthread...ed=1#post865984 (http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showthread.php?p=865984&posted=1#post865984) )

Blower Motor Relay:
OEM=4638094; GP Sorensen=MR76; AC Delco=15-8426; Hella=1410045; Niehoff Ignition=RL35301;Standard Motor Products=RY116 (prices I've seen vary between $8 and $13USD - the OEM price quoted by my Dodge dealer was $71USD [yeah, $71, that's NOT a typo] which includes 6% CT state sales tax)
NOTE: OEM Part# for the 2005 Caravan is 4727370AA.
(Thank you pwilliams517 at http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showthread...ed=1#post865984 (http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showthread.php?p=865984&posted=1#post865984) )

Blower Motor:
OEM=(go to your dealer); AC Delco=15-80104; Siemens=PM3324X-12V-02345; FactoryAir=35283; Four Seasons=35283 (prices I've seen vary from $45 and $60USD, the full OEM unit is between $130-$175USD - the OEM price quoted by my Dodge dealer was $137USD which includes 6% CT state sales tax)
NOTE: OEM Part# for the 2005 Caravan is 4885475AC.
(Thank you pwilliams517 at http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showthread...ed=1#post865984 (http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showthread.php?p=865984&posted=1#post865984) )

Stores/Places to Get Parts:
Advance Auto Parts; Auto Zone; CarQuest; Levine Automotive (in Connecticut USA); http://www.RockAuto.Com

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

COST COMPARISON DATA: My Dealer Does the Work / I Do the Work

My Dealer's Estimate
Blower Motor Relay - $66 (this is an outrageous, friggin' RIP-OFF!)
Blower Motor (DOES include new fan/cage & motor housing, all assembled) - $129
Resistor Block - $14
CT State Sales Tax on Parts - $12.54
Labor (2 hours @ $85/hour) - $170
TOTAL Dealer Price - $391.54

My Actual Costs
Blower Motor Relay - $11
Blower Motor (does NOT include new fan/cage & motor housing, JUST motor) - $44
Resistor Block - $14
CT State Sales Tax on Parts - $4.14
Labor (3 hours @$0/hour) - $0
My TOTAL Actual Cost - $73.14

TOTAL Savings - $318.40 - I reduced my repair bill over 81%

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

I apologize for the length of this "dissertation," but I hope it inspires others to include useful, detailed information in ALL of their messages posted on this board.

Step #1 - DISCONNECT the NEGATIVE Battery Cable from the battery. If you FAIL to do this, you risk shorting out a number of components that are EXPENSIVE to replace. You might also accidentally deploy either or both of your AIRBAGs which are HIDEOUSLY expensive to replace - not to mention extremely DANGEROUS with your head so close to these explosive devices!

Depending on the SYMPTOMS of your Caravan AC/Heater Blower Motor problem, you may wind up performing more than one problem resolution. Read through ALL of this BEFORE you decide what YOUR Step #2, #3 and so forth will be.

The first thing to remember is that their are at least FOUR main user-serviceable components in the the AC/Heater Blower system - 1.) 40 Amp Fuse, 2.) Resistor Block, 3.) Blower Motor Relay, and 4.) Blower Motor. Below are the procedures for checking and/or replacing these components. Good Luck, One and All!...

1.) 40AMP FUSE - located in the Power Distribution Center (PDC) under the hood on the driver-side fenderwell, according to my Haynes Manual #30011...

for the '96 Mini-Van is Fuse #3,
for the '97 Mini-Van is Fuse #3 or #7, and
for the '98 Mini-Van is Fuse #21.

The inside cover of the PDC for your Mini-Van will show you *exactly* where your Blower Motor Fuse is located. Carefully remove this fuse (pliers are OK if you are *careful*) and look at it - if it's bad, the little "loopy" conductor will be burned out - if so, replace the fuse. You are looking for a fuse that looks like this (contributed by Stevo2 at AutomotiveForums.Com):

http://partimages.genpt.com/partimages/217762.jpg

NOTE: In a 1997 Grand Caravan, "Production date = 7/96 - title and owners manual (is a) 1997 (Grand Caravan). The PDC is under the hood with the relay at position 5, fuse at position 3... {this per the diagram in Chilton's}" - carolinaquestions/AutomotiveForums.Com

2.) RESISTOR BLOCK - located under the hood, on the firewall, passenger-side, above and slightly to the right of the shock tower.

You do NOT have to pull this out of the firewall to inspect it (on a 1996 model at least) . Remove the glovebox/door. Get a flashlight. You can see the Resistor Block poking through, high up, on the firewall by peering through the hole where the glovebox/door used to be. You will recognize the Resistor Block by several coiled wires (looks like a heater element) contained in a rectantagular arrangement about 3 inches wide and 1 inch high. If you see ANY rust on these coils, I suggest you REPLACE it. Removal is a PITA (pain in the as*), but accomplished with the hood up and pulling it out of the firewall.

The Resistor Block is held in place with attached clips, not screws so, in theory, tools are not required to remove it from the firewall. It may, however, require a screw driver to pry it loose. My Resistor Block was in so tight that I considered using a pry bar... @#$%&!

It doesn't matter if you unplug the wires first and then remove the Resistor Block or remove the Resistor Block and wires together... I found it impossible to remove the wires, so I CAREFULLY wiggled/tugged the wires together with the Resistor Block out of the firewall. It's tight, but possible to do because I did it. Installation, obviously, can ALSO be a PITA... I plugged the new Resistor Block into the firewall FIRST and then plugged the wires into it... Keep some BandAids handly. I gave blood; you might too.

@#$%&! Dodge Engineers!

NOTE: In a 2005 Caravan, "The resistor is behind the glove box attached to the HVAC case with two bolts & two wire harness connectors (one to the blower motor & one from the speed controls) - pwilliams517"

Here are a few great pictures and comments contributed by John Wood of Allpar.Com (Thank you John!)...

* * * Start... by John Wood/Allpar.com: Jan 7 2006, 09:33 PM (this is an actual installation!) * * *

Let me add a little: This is from a 96 G Voyager and should apply for 96 to 2000 year models. To get the resistor block out of the opening, insert a small acrewdriver blade under the edge and keep it sideways while pushing it to the center. This will compress the spring retainer and you can pull the block out with ease.

Here is a picture of the opening (Ed. note... it's the rectangular opening):

http://photobucket.com/albums/f302/HeadlessHorsemn/100_0222.jpg

The resistor in this picture has no burnt coils, but the crimps for the coils are very badly corroded. This is typical.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v400/jbwood5/100_0221.jpg

The resistor connector was badly corroded and burned and will have to be replaced in this picture. The resistor block blade connectors were rusted into the connector plug and literally had to be pulled apart with channel locks.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v400/jbwood5/ResistorBlockConnector.jpg

* * * End... by John Wood/Allpar.com: Jan 7 2006, 09:33 PM * * *

If you need to repair Resistor Block Wiring, here are a few MORE great pictures and comments contributed by John Wood (Thank you, again John!)...

* * * Start... by John Wood/Allpar.com: Jan 11 2006, 08:00 PM (this is an actual installation!) * * *

I got my resistor and connector pigtail in today to repair my corroded resistor and burnt wiring connector. I took some pictures of the repair process.

New parts:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v400/jbwood5/100_0223.jpg

Soldering on new pigtail (they don't give you the heat shrink tubing but Home Depot has a nice supply of marine grade tubing).

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v400/jbwood5/100_0224.jpg

(Ed note... notice in this picture that the heat shrink tubing is now covering the soldered wires):

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v400/jbwood5/100_0225.jpg

Here is where it goes (Ed. note... the Resistor Block goes INTO the rectangular hole where John's fingers are sticking out):

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v400/jbwood5/100_0226.jpg

That was about $35 in parts but should finally resolve the missing blower speeds.

* * * End... by John Wood/Allpar.com: Jan 11 2006, 08:00 PM * * *

3.) BLOWER MOTOR RELAY - I have considered strangling the Dodge engineer who "designed" this device to reside in its installed location for the '96 Minivan. If your Minivan is a '97 or '98, location may vary. This is by far THE most difficult component to replace in a 1996 model, but it is also among the least expensive ($8-$13)... and doing so can resolve one or more of a number of problems. Get your tools out and allow between 1-2 hours for disassembly, replacement and reassembly. No kidding. You'll need a Phillips screwdriver, a 10mm socket and ratchet with a 6-to-8-inch extension, a flashlight and some electrical tape.

NOTE: In a 2005 Caravan, "The relay is in the main fuse/relay box under the hood between the battery & fender on driver's side. The box lid has the locations on the under side. - pwilliams517"

NOTE: In a 1997 Grand Caravan, "Production date = 7/96 - title and owners manual (is a) 1997 (Grand Caravan). The PDC is under the hood with the relay at position 5, fuse at position 3... {this per the diagram in Chilton's}" - carolinaquestions/AutomotiveForums.Com

a.) Remove the plastic facia below the steering column (4 or 5 Philips-head screws).

b.) Disconnect the parking brake cable from the facia (make a note about how the cable is attached - you have to lift the cable up and slide it sideways/outward to remove it from the facia).

c.) Remove the stamped-steel shroud beneath the steering column - it's (the one previously covered by the facia removed in Step b.) held on by about (12) 10mm hex-head screws - make a note of the screw types and their locations, there are 2 types of screws.

d.) Disconnect the hood release latch.

e.) Disconnect the computer diagnostics connector from the U-Channel crossmember.

f.) Uninstall the U-Channel crossmember - removing several 10mm hex-head screws get this job done. Trust me, you WILL need the extra clearance to get at the Blower Motor Relay later.

g.) Remove the Junction Box cover and unbolt the Junction Box (under the dash, driver's side, it contains relays and fuses, it also has the Body Control Module attached to its back) - there are three 10mm screws, each about 3 inches long that must be removed.

h.) GENTLY pull the Junction Box as far forward as possible. Behind the Junction Box, up high and attached to a clip on the firewall, is the Blower Motor Relay. (Now you know why I have considered strangling the "engineer" for this flash of brilliance). You will recognize the Blower Motor Relay as a "black box" with four wires (blue, green, orange/black and black). It's size is about 1"x1"x2".

i.) Carefully unclip/unfasten the Blower Motor Relay with wires attached from the firewall and GENTLY pull downward as far as possible. You will notice that a plastic depression clip holds the wired connector to the Blower Motor Relay... depress it and carefully pull the Blower Motor Relay out of its socket.

IMPORTANT NOTE: On the firewall, make SURE you push and flatten the clip that formerly held the Blower Motor Relay against the firewall so it does not contact the BCM/Junction Block when you reassemble your Caravan.

j.) You will notice that the OEM part has 4 prongs and your replacement part probably has 5; don't worry, the GP Sorensen, AC Delco and Hella parts work fine - I bought and tested ALL of them to make absolutely sure they would work. Plug your replacement part into the Blower Motor Relay socket with supreme confidence. :)

k.) Wrap a piece of electrical tape completely around the relay and its socket - this prevents dirt, dust and moisture from getting into and around the contact points and also makes it much less likely that the relay will somehow work its way out of the socket.

l.) Unless you are a certified masochist, do NOT attempt to reposition the Blower Motor Relay anywhere NEAR its original location. The special housing that came with the OEM relay is probably NOT part of the replacement part anyway (and do NOT attempt to reuse ANY piece of the old part). Keep the relay in view while you reassemble your Caravan and tuck/tape/bind it in any way you see fit after the reassembly is complete. That's what I did. Screw Dodge engineers. Anybody feel like storming Chrysler with torches and pitchforks by now?

But hey, pat yourself on the back - you're halfway home on this one. Get a beer. Or a glass of wine. Or whatever. But only ONE. You still need to remain focused. :)

m.) Starting with Step h., - reassembly is the reverse of disassembly.

NOTE: After you have reassembled the dash, your new Blower Motor Relay should be visible underneath and behind the Junction Box/BCM... make sure it is out of the way of your feet when you drive. If necessary, tuck, tape or strap this in any way you see fit so it will not move around under the dashboard. At any rate, it will NOW be a whole lot easier to replace this relay again, should you ever need to do so.

4.) BLOWER MOTOR - located under/behind the glovebox/door. If the symptoms of your AC/heater blower problem indicates a motor replacement, take heart in knowing this is not THE most difficult task to finish. Still, I write about this because I continue to be horrified by the prices of so-called replacement motor parts - between $130-$175USD from dealers. Gadzooks. Fact is, the motor, only, cost me $45USD (about 1/3 the cost of the OEM unit which also includes the motor housing and fan/cage). To pull off this procedure, however, a certain amount of "handyman savvy" is required.

a.) Remove the glovebox AND door... you may very well need the extra room.

b.) Remove the Blower Motor cover (four screws).

c.) Remove the Blower Motor ASSEMBLY (motor, fan/cage fan and fixture - three screws). You will probably need a flashlight to locate these screws. If you are NOT using the expensive OEM part and plan to reuse the motor housing and fan/cage, BE CAREFUL not to damage the fan/cage... it is "delicate."

If you bought a complete and expensive OEM replacement motor/fan, STOP HERE. All you need to do is reinstall it. However, if you did what I did and bought ONLY the motor for about 1/3 the cost (and did NOT break the fan/cage when removing the old motor!), proceed to Step d.

d.) FIRST, you must remove the old Blower Motor from its housing. There are 2 screws and 3 rubber bushings that center and hold the old motor in this housing. This is a little tricky, but it CAN be done.

NOTE: According to Boother at Automotive Forums, "I simply took the clip off, sprayed some liquid wrench in the shaft and had a helper hold a screw driver on my bench and pushed the cage off. The screw driver was used to push in the shaft/motor while I applied force to the cage." If that doesn't work for you, proceed to Step e.

e.) Remove the two screws from the bottom of the motor housing and, using a small flat-bladed screwdriver, carefully depress each of three rubber bushings to release the motor from its housing.

NOTE: Be EXTREMELY careful NOT to damage the fan/cage in ANY way... if you do, it's GAME OVER and you MUST buy the expensive replacement unit from your dealer!

f.) It IS possible to remove the fan/cage from the old motor for replacement on the new motor, but it requires VERY careful planning and execution. First, put the old Blower Motor tightly in a VISE, with the fan/cage upright (not tight enough to crush the housing, but tight enough to bang on it with a hammer [described below]).

g.) Lay a hacksaw blade flat on the top of the fan/cage, with teeth facing the motor spindle. Carefully saw sideways through the top of the plastic shaft on one side. Place the hacksaw blade on the other side (180 degrees) of the plastic shaft and saw through the plastic shaft to the metal motor spindle again. You should now have 2 notches on either side of the spindle (opposite sides), through the plastic shaft.

h.) Using a hammer and POINTED punch, score a dimple into the end of the metal motor spindle.

i.) Using a hub puller, place the blades of the puller into the scores of the plastic shaft you created in Step g. Use a C-clamp to push the grips into these scores (a fair amount, but not too much pressure).

j.) Rotate the hub puller clock-wise, centering the hub puller pin into the dimple you created in step h. Rotate the hub puller to gently lift the fan/cage about 1/2 inch UPWARD on the motor spindle.

k.) Remove the C-Clamp and hub puller. You should now be able to carefully and EVENLY lift from the bottom the fan/cage up and off the motor spindle. BE CAREFUL!

l.) The replacement motor I bought - I had to wrap this motor with a foam buffer strip (came with the motor) to properly fit in the stock OEM housing. You MAY have to modify the OEM motor housing in order to get the motor to seat FLUSH in housing - I had to carefully cut the center piece out of the end of the motor housing so I could get the motor to sit flush in the bottom of the housing. The two screws would NOT reach the new motor through the OEM motor housing otherwise. Make SURE the motor sits FLUSH in the bottom of the motor housing and the three rubber bushings are properly in place between the new motor and the OEM motor housing BEFORE attempting to screw in the two screws!

m.) Once done, carefully press the fan/cage back onto the new motor spindle. I did notice that the new motor spindle length was about 1/8" longer than the old OEM motor, so the new motor spindle protruded by that same amount beyond the fan/cage shaft. As a precaution, I mixed up a little epoxy and dabbed the end of the spindle so the fan/cage DEFINITELY would not slide on the spindle.

n.) Cut the wires (pigtail) off of the old motor as close to the old motor as possible (the black and blue wires with the grommet and plug... you will need to RE-USE this!) and strip the ends, leaving about 3/8 inch of exposed copper strands.

o.) Cut/shorten the wires from the new motor, leaving about 4 inches... and strip the ends of these wires, leaving about 3/8 inch of exposed copper strands.

p.) Using 10gauge/12gauge butts and proper crimping tool, attach the wires from the old pigtail to the wires on the new motor (black-to-black [ground-to-ground] FIRST, then the other wire, blue-to-whatever-the-other-color-is on the new motor). Make sure your crimps are TIGHT and wrap them well with electrical tape!

q.) Reinstallation is the reverse of installation, beginning with Step e. It is easy to break the fan/cage while reassembling as well... so please BE CAREFUL.

That's it...

I invite, urge and encourage anyone and EVERYONE to jump on this thread to add, correct, clarify, whatever on this subject... I think WE can do a better job than Chilton, Haynes and Chrysler!

Cheers!

DOCUMENT REVISION HISTORY
Updated 22-FEB-2006: Quick fix note for Blower Motor added. (Thank you Boother at AutomotiveForums.Com!)

Updated 30-JAN-2006: Pic of 40amp fuse and source info added (Thank you Stevo2 at AutomotiveForums.Com!)

Updated 18-JAN-2006: New NOTEs added regarding actual Fuse and Blower Motor RELAY locations in a 1997 Grand Caravan (production date 7/96) which differ in some respects from Haynes manual specifications (Thank you carolinaquestions at AutomotiveForums.Com!)

Updated 12-JAN-2006: Truly EXCELLENT pictures and commentary regarding removal and installation of Blower Motor RELAY contributed by John Wood of Allpar.Com (Thank you John Wood at AllPar.Com!)

Updated 06-JAN-2006: OEM Part Numbers and locations for 2005 Caravan Resistor Block, Blower Motor and Blower Motor Relay added... thanks pwilliams517 at DodgeTalk.Com!

Updated 06-JAN-2006: OEM Part Number for 2001 Caravan Resistor Block added!... thanks Parky50 at AutomotiveForums.Com!

Updated 04-JAN-2006: Good News for 1992-1995 and 1999-2005 Caravan, T&C and Voyager Owners added

Updated 13-DEC-2005: 40AMP fuse replacement source

Updated 12-DEC-2005: Resistor Block Replacement price and source (Rockauto.com)... thanks, clrbrown at AutomotiveForums.Com!

Updated 15-FEB-2005: ADDED additional helpful detail to Resistor Block Replacement... thanks, ksflatfoot at AutomotiveForums.Com!)

[Updated 15-FEB-2005: Define "PITA" - Pain in the As*... to replace a Resistor Block]

[Updated 26-JAN-2005: Title change and description to reflect '96-'98 Chrysler Minivans]

[Reworked 16-JAN-2005: Steps l.) and m.) of Blower Motor Installation Procedure]

[Updated 16-JAN-2005: ADDED 40AMP PDC Fuse Locations for '97 & '98 Mini-Vans

[Updated 16-JAN-2005: ADDED a few Helpful Notes about Blower Motor Relay Installation]

[Updated 09-JAN-2005: A few, minor, corrections]

[Updated 06-JAN-2005: Old Blower Motor Pigtail Installation]

[Updated 06-JAN-2005: COST Comparison Data ]

[Updated 05-JAN-2005: Misc. NEW information ]

Autopro

01-16-2005, 08:06 AM

Hello Headless Horseman, Excellent Post!

AutoPro

Kar-ateo

02-06-2005, 11:04 AM

That's some seriously wicked post you have there Headless...I have a 1992 Dodge Grand Caravan (base model), and although your instructions are not specific to my year and particular model, they were very helpful in sorting our the issues I 'was' having with my front heater blower that conked out yesterday...and just an add on for ya, my vent temperature isn't all that hot, I've been told that a Rad. flush will solve my problem (hopefully after removing all that corroded crap, I don't leak anywhere)...I'll let ya know with an update to this post...

HiRez_L

02-06-2005, 12:57 PM

I'd try flushing the heater core before flushing the radiator.

ksflatfoot

02-13-2005, 04:15 PM

Thank you for the detailed information regarding the resistor. It is most helpful. I have been trying to figure out where the resistor is in order to replace it. I just couldn't figure out where it is. I learned this is a dealer only item. A question for clarification though, do I remove screws from inside, and then pull it out and unplug the wires? I know it sounds easier than it is. I haven't been able to figure out what PITA is... I feel the same about Dodge engineers though. My Caravan has been a certified, class A money pit for the 3 years we have had it. Each time I spend a small fortune on it, I think surely this will be the end of major expenses and I can get my money's worth. A sorrier piece of waste I have never had the displeasure of driving. I want a vanity tag for the front "MONEYPIT"
ksflatfoot

HiRez_L

02-14-2005, 12:06 PM

PITA is an acronym for Pain In The . . . you can figure out the rest.

caravandrvr

02-14-2005, 10:10 PM

What about this one:

The air flow changes when you step on the gas and directs it to vents that it is not set to come out of?

HiRez_L

02-15-2005, 08:18 AM

The door that directs the airflow in your vents is vacuum actuated, when you accelerate hard it will steal vacuum from that system and all the airflow will end up at the defrost vents.

HeadlessHorseman

02-15-2005, 10:01 AM

Thank you... A question for clarification though, do I remove screws from inside, and then pull it out and unplug the wires?... I haven't been able to figure out what PITA is... You are very welcome... As far as I know, the Resistor Block is held in place by two spring-clips. In theory, you should be able to pull it out of the firewall from under the hood - no screws involved, at least none on my '96 GC LE.

I gather you own a Dodge Caravan... what year is it?... it might matter.

However, it was NOT simple (for me at least) and I wound up cutting several fingers/knuckles, so please be careful... it may be tight and verrry difficult to get out.

I found it impossible to disconnect the wire bundle from the Resistor Block prior to actually removing the Resistor Block from the firewall, so I carefully tugged/wiggled the connection until the Resistor Block came out of the firewall.

I don't think it matters to disconnect the wires before or after you pull the Resistor Block out of the firewall. However, it *IS* important to disconnect the negative battery cable BEFORE you do ANYTHING... do NOT forget to do this :)!

P.S. I love your MONEYPIT vanity plate idea. So true!

jase386

02-23-2005, 09:14 AM

any ideas from the group on where to find the resistor block online, at the prices mentioned?

clrbrown

04-09-2005, 03:24 PM

For any dodge caravan (any dodge) parts goto:

https://www.rockauto.com/dbphp/mak,DODGE

RIP

05-21-2005, 11:45 PM

Old thread but, a big thanks to HH. Outstanding instructions on changing the blower relay. You saved me a lot of "Oh !@#$'s" and bandaids. Like you, I'm thinking the engineers sat around a table with a couple six packs and came up with a humdinger of a way to screw with the DIYers out there. They couldn't have put it in a worse spot. Cheers!

bolognaman

05-22-2005, 03:28 PM

Robin Hood

08-02-2005, 08:17 PM

I have a 1999 Caravan with symptom #1 (only runs the motor on high speed), does anyone know if this resistor block is in roughly the same location?

ksflatfoot

08-02-2005, 11:01 PM

I have a 1999 Caravan with symptom #1 (only runs the motor on high speed), does anyone know if this resistor block is in roughly the same location?

I have a 1998 Caravan. The resistor block is located on the passenger side, under the hood, in the fire wall. It has to be pried out. There is like spring tension bands on each side which hold it in the hole. It has to be unplugged from the wires. The new one changed and you are back in business. My blower would only work on high. There were some coil wires burned apart which could be seen after removing from the fire wall. It did take some doing. Of course it wasn't the easiest to get to for being comfortable, but not bad. I have seen worse. The hardest thing seemed to be trying to get the thing back in the slot. The tension bands on the new one did not seem tight. It can be wiggled in the slot whereas the old one seemed to be solid.

Robin Hood

08-07-2005, 10:37 AM

Got it fixed. It was the Resistor block. In the 1999 model you can't see it from the glove box. Too many obstructions. Oh, and the replacement cost is no longer $14, the bugger was $30 + tax at the dealer. Thanks for all the tips, the wife is happy, for now.

jgionet

08-07-2005, 11:21 AM

I just replaced mine yesterday since I was only able to use my blower on high. It's about about $27 CAD (tax included) at my local dealer. They wanted another $34+tax for new wiring. Since my connector was rusted to hell I decided to save myself some $$ and made myself one with connectors. It was a little more work but it works. I have a 96 Caravan.

HeadlessHorseman

12-12-2005, 07:53 AM

markmi

12-16-2005, 02:53 PM

After going through and responding to all posts I could find about heater blower issues back to October, I'm bumping this thread back to the top. As usual, cold weather brings out the worst in Dodge Engineering and I hope this post helps others save 100's of $'s. Also, thanks to clrbrown, I have been able to add information about getting a Resistor Block from a non-dealer source! Thank you everyone for your comments and feedback - Cheers!

P.S. After nearly a year since I replaced all the goodies I mention in this thread (and creating this thread), I have not had any heating or blower problems whatsoever.

Steve,
I have read your article, excellent. I have a 97 voyager though and my problem centers around the fact the blower works great but hot air is coming out the driverside and cold out the passenger. The reistat for the passenger does change the level of cold air coming out. The defrost vent, floor and dash vents on one side blow cold. Any suggestions?

krumcruncher

12-16-2005, 05:55 PM

ksflatfoot

12-17-2005, 10:56 AM

jackel440

12-18-2005, 02:40 PM

krumcruncher

12-18-2005, 10:13 PM

great article !!!!
I have a 2001 and my fan only works on high also but my rear heater fan controls don't work at all.I wondered if the rear blower gets power throught the same resistor as the front blower?
Hello, you will need a new resister block for the front blower only, the rear has only 2 speeds, ie, off, low and high, and is fused, so all you need to do there is find and replace the fuse. Be SURE to get the same fuse, DO NOT put a higher rated fuse, ie, a 20 for a 15, as you will cause a hazardous situation. Go to rockauto.com for this part #PU93, less than with S/H,less than $25.00, unless you reside in their state
BE SURE you disconnect the neg batter cable before doing anything. The resister block is under the hood, high up on the pass side, and here's the way to remove it;First take a 2-3 foot piece of wood, ( I used a n old paint stick, the type that you screw onto a paint roller), insert this stick all the way to the firewall engaging the R B, and push and pry the block out a little, (you can't pry it all the way out), then take a 20 penny nail and fashion a hook on the end, lock the nail into vise grip plilers, reach in and get hold of the RB and PULL it out on one side, you'll have more space on the other side to insert the hook, and again PULL, don't be worried that you will destroy something, cause you won't and the RB is shot anyway. You have got to wiggle, wobble the block out to where you can disconnect the wires and if you have a replacement on hand, you have saved a bunch of money. HAVE FUN !

HeadlessHorseman

12-20-2005, 07:11 AM

Steve,
I have read your article, excellent. I have a 97 voyager though and my problem centers around the fact the blower works great but hot air is coming out the driverside and cold out the passenger. The reistat for the passenger does change the level of cold air coming out. The defrost vent, floor and dash vents on one side blow cold. Any suggestions?
I have heard of this problem before, but since I have not personally experienced it, I really don't know what to tell you. I do know that the separate controls for driver and passenger sides control multiple vents, so I would guess that it's the control or some part of that circuit. If anyone knows for sure, please post it here so that I can work the solution into my original post. This seems to be a fairly common problem. Sorry I cannot be more helpful.

However... I am trying to recall if there is some sort of program setup for the buttons that essentially resets the heating panel system. If this is true (and I am not just imagining that I heard this somewhere), I surely would like to hear from someone who knows about this and has actually been successful at doing it. If I recall correctly, this procedure also fixes issues like heat blowing out of some vents but not others.

HeadlessHorseman

12-20-2005, 07:20 AM

great article !!!!
I have a 2001 and my fan only works on high also but my rear heater fan controls don't work at all.I wondered if the rear blower gets power throught the same resistor as the front blower?It sounds for sure like the Resistor Block is blown for your front Blower Motor. Check the fuse; if that isn't it, use a multimeter to determine whether or not the switch and motor are receiving any power (two separate tests). There may or may not be a relay involved in your rear heating situation as well. I know my Hayne's manual covers years 1996 through 1998, so I cannot say for sure where else the problem may be for your '01. I can tell you this... the Resistor Block on my '96 has no function at all for the rear heating system in my 2-zone GC LE.

HeadlessHorseman

12-20-2005, 07:26 AM

I found this site last pm and certainly at the right time! I've replaced the fan motor and resister on this vehicle, but can get it to stop the defrost cycle. The little lights on the 2 press button switches blink all the time and you can tell that the ac compressor cycles on/off. any help will be greatly appreciated. Someone said that replacing the resister is PITA, and I, maybe, discovered a simple method to extract it from the firewall. took me maybe 10 minutes to do it. a very sinple idea! Has to be pretty basic for me!I am trying to recall if there is some sort of program setup for the buttons that essentially resets the heating panel system. If this is true (and I am not just imagining that I heard this somewhere), I surely would like to hear from someone who knows about this and has actually been successful at doing it. If I recall correctly, this procedure also fixes issues like heat blowing out of some vents but not others.

krumcruncher

12-20-2005, 10:29 AM

I am trying to recall if there is some sort of program setup for the buttons that essentially resets the heating panel system. If this is true (and I am not just imagining that I heard this somewhere), I surely would like to hear from someone who knows about this and has actually been successful at doing it. If I recall correctly, this procedure also fixes issues like heat blowing out of some vents but not others.
according to local dealer ser dept, it has to do with the blend door or that something in the switches needs to be re-calibrated, which i doubt, as there's no adj things inside the bezel. i will try adjusting the blend door today and see what happens, as i know there's a control motor that moves the door, according to the setting selected. thanks for your previeous posts, very helpful!!

Parky50

12-25-2005, 12:06 AM

Great post HeadlessHorseman !!! :thumbsup:

I'll try swapping the resistor block in my 2001 Caravan.
My front blower fan is only operating on the HIGH setting... :rolleyes:

HeadlessHorseman

12-27-2005, 11:06 AM

Great post HeadlessHorseman !!! :thumbsup:

I'll try swapping the resistor block in my 2001 Caravan.
My front blower fan is only operating on the HIGH setting... :rolleyes:
After you've done this, please come back and post the results! :iceslolan

Parky50

12-28-2005, 04:58 PM

krumcruncher

12-28-2005, 09:45 PM

Hi there,

Well I had a few extra minutes this morning and I was trying to locate the Resistor Block... :confused:

I checked on the firewall by the strut as mentioned before but I could not see or feel it on my 2001. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated at this point.

Thanks,
Mike
Did you see a wire harness high up on the firewall? thats the wires connected to the RB. it's a bit tricky to replace, refer to my previous threads.

HeadlessHorseman

12-29-2005, 06:24 AM

Hi there,
Well I had a few extra minutes this morning and I was trying to locate the Resistor Block... :confused:
...
Thanks,
Mike
I Googled your 2001 Resistor Block question this morning and came across a few folks out who seem to think that the Resistor Block is located on the Blower Motor itself... I do not know about this for sure.

Interestingly, the Haynes Manual (#30011) I bought several years ago covers 1996-1998, but on the http://www.Haynes.Com web site there is a notation that the current version of this same manual number covers "all models '96 thru '02 Does not include information on All-Wheel Drive and alternative fuel models. Includes Grand Caravan".

Maybe the current version (if there is one) of Haynes Manual #30011 is more helpful for your purposes... if an updated manual really does exist, hopefully Haynes has done a better job this time describing and troubleshooting these types of AC/Heating Blower issues... the manual I have is woefully inadequate.

On the http://www.Chiltonsonline.Com web site, their current manual only seems to cover 1996-1999 - no new millennium Caravan stuff at all. Sorry I cannot be more helpful on the location of the Resistor Block in your '01 GC.

HeadlessHorseman

01-03-2006, 06:57 AM

Parky50

01-04-2006, 08:35 AM

Hey Parky50, how did you make out with locating the Resistor Block on your '01? Has anyone else out there with an '01 had a problem locating the Resistor Block and, if so, where is it actually located?

I should get some time this afternoon to take another shot at it. I'll report back here with my findings... Wish me luck !!! :)

Mike

HeadlessHorseman

01-04-2006, 09:07 AM

I should get some time this afternoon to take another shot at it. I'll report back here with my findings... Wish me luck !!! :)

MikeI wish you luck, Mike! I would also be interested in knowing a couple of other things (if you don't mind :wink: )...

1.) What is the socket NUMBER of the 40amp fuse for the Blower Motor Relay of your '01 (this number is different for 1996 [Socket #3], 1997 [Socket #7] and 1998 [Socket #21]), and

2.) Where is the socket LOCATION of the 40amp fuse for the Blower Motor Relay of your '01 (my '96's socket is located in the Power Distribution Center [PDC] under the hood, driver-side).

Thanks in advance and Good Luck again!

Parky50

01-04-2006, 05:25 PM

I wish you luck, Mike! I would also be interested in knowing a couple of other things (if you don't mind :wink: )...

1.) What is the socket NUMBER of the 40amp fuse for the Blower Motor Relay of your '01 (this number is different for 1996 [Socket #3], 1997 [Socket #7] and 1998 [Socket #21]), and

2.) Where is the socket LOCATION of the 40amp fuse for the Blower Motor Relay of your '01 (my '96's socket is located in the Power Distribution Center [PDC] under the hood, driver-side).

Thanks in advance and Good Luck again!

Dang if I can find that Resistor Block... :mad:
I tried looking again on the firewall, just can't seem to see anything in there up high or lower with three wires running into it... :confused:
There appears to be some kind of cover that is mounted up high on the firewall and it appears to go over the wiper motors and such. I will take that off next to see if that Resistor Block is hiding behind there.

I tried looking on the blower motor too. There was a little black box that was held on by two screws and had a set of small wires running into the back... I thought I was going to luck out there... :shakehead
It was a little motor assembly with gears in there... I'm guessing that would be the motor for the "Blend Door". I put that back together and installed it back on the blower motor.

As far as the Blower Motor Relay... It is located in the engine compartment in the IPM - Integrated Power Module right next to the battery. I'm not sure of the socket number but I was able to scan a pic of the cover and labeled them to post a pic on the forum. I'm unable to attach anything so I could e-mail you HeadlessHorseman if you would like to see the exact location of the Blower Motor Relay.

Thanks,
Mike

Parky50

01-05-2006, 12:55 PM

HeadlessHorseman

01-05-2006, 03:02 PM

...As far as the Blower Motor Relay... It is located in the engine compartment in the IPM - Integrated Power Module right next to the battery. I'm not sure of the socket number but I was able to scan a pic of the cover and labeled them to post a pic on the forum. I'm unable to attach anything so I could e-mail you HeadlessHorseman if you would like to see the exact location of the Blower Motor Relay.

Thanks,
MikeA picture would be great, Mike. Thanks... My email address is HeadlessHorseman@SNET.Net. Congratulations and I'll keep my fingers crossed that you nailed the problem!

Parky50

01-06-2006, 12:39 PM

E-mail sent HeadlessHorseman... :smile:

HeadlessHorseman

01-06-2006, 02:17 PM

E-mail sent HeadlessHorseman... :smile:Thanks again... got it... like I said in my email, I did not realize how different a 2001 3.8L looks from a 1996 3.8L under the hood. Amazing. It is comforting to know that Chrysler moved the Blower Motor Relay from the firewall under the driver-side dashboard (behind the Junction Box/BCM) and put it where it is FAR easier to reach... under the hood!

HeadlessHorseman

01-16-2006, 06:34 AM

I was just curious if anyone had more info for a 97 caravan. My issue is that the blower will work fine when it is cooler weather, but after it sits in the sun for awhile the blower won't come on at all. The fuse is still good, I couldn't see anything wrong with the relay (located in the power distribution center under the hood) but how can you tell with a 1 x 1 black box, and I couldn't find anything wrong with wiring behind the glove box. I'm open to suggestions, just trying to avoid multiple trips to the parts store. The material in this post has been helpful.Don't know if you're still visiting this thread, but I would start with the Blower Motor RELAY, then the MOTOR. Resistor Blocks usually either work or they don't.

carolinaquestions

01-17-2006, 04:11 PM

:screwy: What a great thread. You guys are tops.

97 grand caravan blower problem- My better half's blower motor quit completely. I replaced it and it worked great! I was a hero. 30 minutes later she went on an errand and it quit. I'm not a hero any more. I new enough to check the relay located under the hood and the fuse and found they appeared to be fine. i.e., coil was closing the contacts and I had 12 volts on both sides of the contacts which comes from the fuse. I read a couple of threads elsewhere before joining this forum and zoned in on the risistor. While trying to get the connector off and getting very frustrated, my wife came out and turned the switch on and it worked, for three weeks. It has quit again, completely! I replaced the resistor and nothing works. I swaped relays. Nothing. I bought a Chilton's book with wiring diagrams and see that 12 volts should be on the blue wire at the fan motor all the time when the ignition switch is on. The speed switch and the resistor work on the negative ground side of the circuit. I don't have 12 volts at the blower. The wiring diagram shows a straight wire from the relay (where there is power leaving) to the blower connector (where I have no power). Does anyone know where there may be another connector in between which may be compromized?

Thanks,

HeadlessHorseman

01-17-2006, 04:30 PM

... :screwy: Check the fuse... It also sounds like you have a Blower Motor RELAY that's barely getting the job done and only part time at that...

It is possible to have 12 volts going to your blower motor and not enough amps to turn it because the relay no longer closes the circuit with good contact. Remember, this circuit is rated for *40 amps* and that's a lot of juice. Normal use causes relay contacts to become burned and pitted over time.

You said you checked the relay under the hood... are you sure that's where your Blower Motor Relay is located? I was under the impression that this relay was located under the dash, driver's side, behind the Junction Box/BCM - that's where my Hayne's manual says it's located for your '97.

I have no idea what relay you were checking.

carolinaquestions

01-17-2006, 05:54 PM

Check the fuse... It also sounds like you have a Blower Motor RELAY that's barely getting the job done and only part time at that... "

"You said you checked the relay under the hood... are you sure that's where your Blower Motor Relay is located? I was under the impression that this relay was located under the dash, driver's side, behind the Junction Box/BCM - that's where my Hayne's manual says it's located for your '97.

I have no idea what relay you were checking."

Thanks for the responce!

This is splitting hairs... production date = 7/96 - title and owners manual 1997. The PDC is under the hood with the relay at position 5, fuse at position 3.
Power for relay coil comes from junction box under dash, fuse 12 (10 amp).This is switched on by ingnition switch.
40 amp fuse no. 3 (PDC) powers (hot all the time) the contacts in relay which when the coil energizes, supplies the relativly large(40 amp current potential) dark blue wire which leaves the connector no.1 under the PDC, straight to blower connector with constant +12 volts with ignition switch on. {this per the diagram in Chilton's}

<<new info>> The dark blue 12 volt supply wire leaving the PDC travels through the firewall in a harness on the passenger side of the steering column and goes through a large multi-wire connector (possibly for all under dash componants) which is located under the dash above right knee when driving. >>> This connector location info supplied by friend's friend (dealer technician) as I was writing initial post.>>

I just checked the connector under the dash and BEHOLD! Apparently the previous owner had a problem with this wire in this connector and someone (explenatives researved) patched this dark blue wire, possibly a 10 ga, with twisted wire junctions and a 16 ga wire around the outside of the large connector. One of the twisted junctions had melted in two.
I will replace the patch wire with proper size and solder solid and insulated with shrink tubing. (I did jump it out and blower works)
We have had this vehicle for 3 years and have had great service. I probally should consider a fire extinquisher!

too blessed to be stressed and
off to slay other dragons....

HeadlessHorseman

01-17-2006, 07:41 PM

... I just checked the connector under the dash and BEHOLD! Apparently the previous owner had a problem with this wire in this connector and someone (explenatives researved) patched this dark blue wire, possibly a 10 ga, with twisted wire junctions and a 16 ga wire around the outside of the large connector. One of the twisted junctions had melted in two. I will replace the patch wire with proper size and solder solid and insulated with shrink tubing. (I did jump it out and blower works)
We have had this vehicle for 3 years and have had great service. I probally should consider a fire extinquisher!

too blessed to be stressed and
off to slay other dragons....Congratulations on tracking down the problem. I'll have to remember the "Charlie Electrician Factor" next time. I never would have guessed that someone had intentionally screwed up the circuit. :banghead: Thanks for getting back and posting the results of your efforts! Let this be a lesson to us all. I learn something new every day. ;)

It's interesting that you say the 40amp fuse is in socket #3 in the PDC... my Haynes manual says it's in socket #7. But then, you also said that the production date of your '97 was 7/96. My '96 was made 2/96. What a difference five months makes. Thanks for sharing all of your great information and research... I'll work it into the original post (and make you famous :) )!

zachr101

01-23-2006, 03:32 AM

I was just curious if anyone had more info for a 97 caravan. My issue is that the blower will work fine when it is cooler weather, but after it sits in the sun for awhile the blower won't come on at all. The fuse is still good, I couldn't see anything wrong with the relay (located in the power distribution center under the hood) but how can you tell with a 1 x 1 black box, and I couldn't find anything wrong with wiring behind the glove box. I'm open to suggestions, just trying to avoid multiple trips to the parts store. The material in this post has been helpful.
You can slide off the black plastic cover off the relay and see inside contacts to verify wheather or not they are burned. If stripped relay is plugged in the socket, you may push manualy the contacts together. The simplest way to verify the relay is to shuffle these relays and exchange it for some of the others (they are identical) and to see, if it will work in different location.

HeadlessHorseman

01-27-2006, 12:58 AM

You can slide off the black plastic cover off the relay and see inside contacts to verify wheather or not they are burned. If stripped relay is plugged in the socket, you may push manualy the contacts together. The simplest way to verify the relay is to shuffle these relays and exchange it for some of the others (they are identical) and to see, if it will work in different location.If this is the first time you have had a problem with your '97, chances are excellent that a relay replacement is necessary. It's a cheap and easy test to buy a new relay and install it, but remember that a good relay can make a marginal motor seem fine in the short term. I have found that relays and motors are best replaced in pairs. A marginal motor can draw more power than usual and cause contacts of a new relay to burn and pit at a far faster rate than normal.

Stevo2

01-30-2006, 01:12 AM

Just trying to help if I can. If the 40 amp fuse is a Maxi-fuse than it is available from these places also.
NAPA-BK 7821079
Kragen, Checker, Shucks, Rockauto-MAX40
Mopar-6101641

http://partimages.genpt.com/partimages/217762.jpg

HeadlessHorseman

01-30-2006, 08:18 AM

Thanks for the pic of the fuse and source info, Stevo2... I'll work it into the original post. This is great... it just keeps getting better and better... thanks for contributing!

91cabernetcaravan

02-04-2006, 11:54 PM

Ahhhhhhh!

Am I glad I found this forum and this thread. I too have a AC/heater system problem, but I have seen no one mention this one before. Or if they have I completely missed it I am no mechanic, and am not even really much of a weekend mechanic, but some things I can do myself. Example: I switched out the entire speaker system on my Caravan in one afternoon. Also, I replace my own burned out headlamps and marker lamps. That stuff... piece of cake.
But this one frosts my cookies.....
Dear HeadlessHorseman:
I own a 1991 Dodge Caravan (cabernet in color, I love the old beast).
As I drive merrily up the highway, the fan, which runs fine at all speeds blows fine, but the damn air doesn't come out. I accelerate, I hear a flapper inside the dash start vibrating and slam shut shutting off the air flow into the car. I let off on the gas (or top a hill and drop into cruise mode) I hear the flapper open again. Now, I know for a fact it didn't act this way before.
Everything else regarding the AC/heater system seems to work fine, for a car that is at the advanced age of 206K miles. Now, I read through this forum but I have seen no comment regarding my second generation Caravan (model year 1991). I'm fairly certain I can do the dash access myself, but what's causing this flapper to vibrate closed when I speed up and then pop back opened when I let off? This is a damned nuisance when it's hot or cold, and I need air blowing in a regular fashion.
Any thoughts?
Neil in Tujunga

HeadlessHorseman

02-05-2006, 08:21 AM

Ahhhhhhh! ...Dear HeadlessHorseman:
I own a 1991 Dodge Caravan (cabernet in color, I love the old beast).
As I drive merrily up the highway, the fan, which runs fine at all speeds blows fine, but the damn air doesn't come out. I accelerate, I hear a flapper inside the dash start vibrating and slam shut shutting off the air flow into the car. I let off on the gas (or top a hill and drop into cruise mode) I hear the flapper open again. Now, I know for a fact it didn't act this way before.
Everything else regarding the AC/heater system seems to work fine, for a car that is at the advanced age of 206K miles. Now, I read through this forum but I have seen no comment regarding my second generation Caravan (model year 1991). I'm fairly certain I can do the dash access myself, but what's causing this flapper to vibrate closed when I speed up and then pop back opened when I let off? This is a damned nuisance when it's hot or cold, and I need air blowing in a regular fashion. Any thoughts? Neil in TujungaI think RIP is right... it sounds like a vacuum issue. My experience with leaking vacuum lines has been that they fail mostly at connection points... usually the leaks happen where lines are connected, like rubber connectors... in some cases, the lines themselves leak, but only after they have been rubbing against something for a while and worn thin, pinched or heated and melted when they touch something hot.

Whatever it is, you need to get a schematic of your entire heating system which includes lines, acuator(s), manual and thermal switches, electrical circuits... everything. You'll also have to take a look at your blend doors and make sure linkages are connected and hinges are OK. You may have to take your dashboard apart to do this right. I don't know what you might find in a Haynes or Chilton's manual, but it might be a good idea to get both of these manuals if you plan to keep your '91 for any length of time.

I would plan to spend an entire weekend running down this problem... maybe a 3-day weekend... and don't plan on using this vehicle during that time because it will be in pieces. Best of luck!

91cabernetcaravan

02-05-2006, 11:02 AM

91cabernetcaravan

02-06-2006, 12:37 AM

Hm. Okay. I have my Chrysler service manual in front of me for this evening's reading entertainment. Section (or chapter) 24, the fun stuff begins at page 31. I did notice something curious while playing with the termperature slider and popping the directional air buttons. One time it popped the funky flapper opened with a corresponding "pop" on the car stereo.
Well, at 206K miles, I guess another strange sound isn't all that unusual. I'm going to wade through this material for an evening and see if I can glean anything else.
Neil in Tujunga

Stevo2

02-06-2006, 01:11 AM

Thank you for the quick responses on this.
Okay, well... I have a terrific mechanic that has been servicing my car and knows it inside and out. It sounds like a job for his skills, but the info is valuable.
I do have the service manual, which has helped me tremendously in doing the more simplistic stuff, but this seems like it may be a few hairs out of my league.
I'll be reading up on that tonight and see if I can learn anything else. If time and finances permit, I'll look into getting a Haynes or Chilton book.
I'll report back if I learn anything new. May be a few weeks, but I'll have this thread bookmarked to add to the information base.
Again, thanks for the insight.
Neil

Neil, when you hear this door shut and the air stops coming from the vents, is it going up to the defrosters instead?
Check the vacuum supply line where it attaches to the engine for a possible bad rubber connector, also there is probably a check valve in that line also that allows vacuum to flow to the interior but is supposed to stop it from going back to the engine during deceleration or high engine load. Could be the pushbutton asm is leaking or the vacuum hose harness that connects to it. The best thing for checking these vacuum circuits is a MityVac, you can see vacuum readings, operate the doors and check lines for leaks.
www.mityvac.com

http://www.mityvac.com/images/no_flash.jpg

91cabernetcaravan

02-06-2006, 11:55 AM

Thanks, SteveO for the followup.
Well, I read the service manual, but my own personal tool and skill set isn't qualified to do this kind of work. Conclusion, I will defer to my machanic, who will probably sub it out to another shop, I expect. Not sure he does that kind of stuff on site.

"Neil, when you hear this door shut and the air stops coming from the vents, is it going up to the defrosters instead?"

Not sure. There is a obvious audible sound change when that happens, and yes, it does sound like that, but I do not know it in fact. If that's the case, what is the probable situation?

"Check the vacuum supply line where it attaches to the engine for a possible bad rubber connector, also there is probably a check valve in that line also that allows vacuum to flow to the interior but is supposed to stop it from going back to the engine during deceleration or high engine load. Could be the pushbutton asm is leaking or the vacuum hose harness that connects to it."

I can check it, perhaps make minor adjustments with the tools I have at hand. Beyond that, I have to defer to an expert..

"The best thing for checking these vacuum circuits is a MityVac, you can see vacuum readings, operate the doors and check lines for leaks.
www.mityvac.com"

Well, given the current weather situation (our mild southern California climate is thankfully holding true for the time being) this is hardly a major issue on my car. Other mechanical things that need addressing have higher priority currently: ie. I'm buring a quart of oil a month these days; my automatic transmission is a rebuild and at low speeds I have to downshift into 2nd gear due to excessive vibration; almost all of my dashboard illumination is burned out making it very hard to see my instrument cluster at night (fun, fun); add to that a handfull of annoying minor issues, like one license plate light fused -- as I said, old car...
Anyway, thanks all of you for the help and information. At the very least I can sound somewhat literate when I discuss this with my mechanic.
I'll have this problem addressed on one of my rare days off in the near future. I'll report back then.
Thanks, guys!
Neil in Tujunga

91cabernetcaravan

02-07-2006, 11:39 AM

Stevo2

02-07-2006, 09:29 PM

IN RESPONSE TO STEVEO2:

"Neil, when you hear this door shut and the air stops coming from the vents, is it going up to the defrosters instead?'"

The answer is YES! I drove to work yesterday afternoon with the fan on just to listen to the noise it made. I also ran my hand over the different outlets, and you hit it on the button. The "flapper" slams closed upon acellerating and the air flow shifts to the defront outlets, even though the button is set on "FLOOR".
Oddly, shifting the button positions didn't change it; the flapper actuated on increasing motor strain, and reopened -- sometimes -- when it dropped back to an even cruise speed.
The night's trip home -- it was fairly cool -- it took a long time before enough heat poured out of the defrost outlets to warm my feet -- which was my intention at the time, again, the button was on "FLOOR".
I'm getting a niggle here that maybe one -- or both -- actuators need replacing?
I say 'maybe' because, when defrosting (rare here but sometimes it's needed) if one of those acutators is for defrosting, I'd say it works fine.
Anyway, just one brief update. I'll keep an eye -- and hand -- on it and let everyone know if I learn anything else.
(Again) Neil in Tujunga

Neil, you have a vacuum issue. I doubt that it is the actuator itself as they very rarely go bad. The deal with the "Defrost" is a safety feature, if the Heat-A/C has a vacuum leak the door acuator is designed to "default" to defrost so that you can see where the heck you are going.
Your problem could be in a number of areas in the system such as bad parts or hoses,etc. You might feel more comfortable having your mechanic look at it? You could try getting a used dash control asm and replace that and see what happens. I'm sure you will make the decision that suits you best. For a used part you can try here www.car-part.com and search under "Heater/AC Control".

91cabernetcaravan

02-08-2006, 11:43 AM

Boother

02-17-2006, 05:51 PM

Thanks for the great info in this post. I just replaced my blower motor on my 97 with your help.

One thing I would like to note, there is no need to go through the big ordeal of hacksawing and using a puller on the cage. I simply took the clip off, sprayed some liquid wrench in the shaft and had a helper hold a screw driver on my bench and pushed the cage off. The screw driver was used to push in the shaft/motor while I applied force to the cage.

HeadlessHorseman

03-16-2006, 09:34 AM

Thanks for posting the results of your efforts Boother. Good to hear it worked out well for you. I just assumed because getting the fan cage off my old motor was a biotch, it would be a biotch for everyone else. Thanks for letting us know that there may be an easier way to get the fan cage off for some folks. Cheers! P.S... I added your note to the original post.

jakeortman

04-18-2006, 11:56 AM

Just had to say that this guide is about to save me several hundred dollars in my 96 Caravan :-)

Thanks a ton!

HeadlessHorseman

04-23-2006, 06:38 AM

Just had to say that this guide is about to save me several hundred dollars in my 96 Caravan :-)

Thanks a ton!That's what this site and this thread are all about. Please be sure to come back and post the results of your repairs when you're finished... it'll be much appreciated.

Stevo2

07-11-2006, 02:33 AM

Bump to the top

Papo

08-24-2006, 02:06 PM

Just want to thank everyone for all the info on the motor blower and the resistor block. I just replaced the resistor block on my 98 Grand Caravan. It's located as mentioned previously on the firewall on the passenger side. I used a "plier like" oil filter remover to pry the resistor block out. The new one was set in a matter of minutes, without the cuts and scratches. Now the motor is blowing "cat 5" winds.:grinno: I purchased the resister block at my local dealer for $14 + change and tax. Thanks again!

HeadlessHorseman

09-07-2006, 10:41 AM

Nearly 2 years later after replacing the Relay, Resistor Block and Blower Motor and I have had NO problems whatsoever.

mspande

09-28-2006, 10:40 AM

Thank you! The pictures and the discussion helped me to go fix it myself. The dealer wanted $95 for the resistor and harness... and $250 for installation. I found another dealer with the same parts for $38, and it took me an hour to install. HUGE savings. Thanks again.

thowell

11-13-2006, 06:04 PM

ok a bump as well as a question
on the 92 caravan is there a blower relay and if so where is it under the hood or like the 96 in hell on the firewall inside the dash
T

thowell

11-14-2006, 04:43 PM

bump

HeadlessHorseman1

01-29-2007, 01:59 PM

bumpbump

lotrnerd2005

01-30-2007, 06:10 AM

Thank you so much!!

HeadlessHorseman1

02-08-2007, 01:49 PM

Thank you so much!!You're welcome! I am now officially past the 2-year mark (when I started this thread) and I have had absolutely no problems whatsoever with the Blower Motor Relay, Blower Motor or the Resistor Block I replaced in January of 2005. So there ya go, everyone... 2+ years after the repair and still blowing heat (and A/C) like crazy.

zerot

02-26-2007, 01:59 PM

Just wanted to add my 2 cents.

1998 Grand Voyager - My symptoms were:

1. Fan worked intermitantly and would not blow that hard.
2. Sometimes had a low grinding sound.

Started out by replacing the blower motor.

New blower motor without mouse cage (circular fan) from carquest $44

1. Removed glove box - no screws to remove
2. Removed 4 8mm screws from bottom of blower motor housing.
3. Unplugged wiring harness
4. Removed bottom cover of blower motor housing
5. Pulled out the motor / fan assembly
6. Pulled wires through the housing.
7. Another 2 hands is helpfull here
8. Removed clip from top of fan where motor shaft runs through
9. Had my wife hold the fan while I tapped the shaft with a screw driver.
10. Motor fell off of fan.
11. Removed 2 screws from bottom of motor shroud, removed shroud from motor.
12. Installed shroud on new motor, then fan.
13. Put it all back together.
14. It was easy.
15. Fan works like new blows hard. All speeds.

Never checked the resistor but will eventually.

This board rocks!:2cents:

HeadlessHorseman1

02-27-2007, 07:43 AM

...Never checked the resistor but will eventually. This board rocks!:2cents:
Thanks for following up and posting your efforts and success! If your blower motor is blowing hard at all speeds, it sounds like your Resistor Block is fine. Still, like you say, taking a look at it is probably a good idea. Resistor Blocks don't last forever and I replaced mine when my '96 was exactly as old as your '98 is now!

Pat yourself on the back... you saved yourself around $200!

Herrmannx5

03-03-2007, 12:38 PM

HeadlessHorseman1

03-04-2007, 05:21 AM

This post was extremely helpful. Three weeks ago blower only worked on high for 02' T&C. Replaced resistor block, problem fixed until today. Now it's doing the same thing again and something smells very hot. I would imagine if I replace the resistor block it will work again, but I have to believe something is causing it to go bad. Any ideas what??I achieved complete success by replacing the Resistor Block, Blower Motor Relay and the Blower Motor all at once. That may be excessive in your case. Take a look at the Resistor Block you replaced. Is it damaged? Are the wires and connector to the Resistor Block OK? Look for wires that have melted insulation. This is a high-amp circuit and your wires and connector need to be in *perfect* condition... anything less than a perfect connection may cause wires to heat up and short.

hoff316

04-29-2007, 09:23 AM

kornkid4032

05-20-2007, 07:27 AM

Very helpful post. My wiring harness to the resistor was corroded and the resistor was shot. This also fried the blower relay. I replaced the resistor, wiring plug harness and swapped the relay temporarily with the high beams relay, I will buy another relay when I get to O'reillys later. Success, the blower works, my wife is off my case now, this post saved me $$$. Great job Headless Horseman, I liked the digital pictures. :grinyes:

I was wondering where I could get the wiring harness from... I couldn't find it at rockauto.com.....

Also, that part# RU93 that was mentioned for the resistor, does that part work for the 95 models?

hoff316

05-20-2007, 08:43 AM

I could only find the wiring harness from the Dealership Mopar. Not sure about 1995 models since mine is a 1998.

lesam1

05-26-2007, 10:08 PM

HeadlessHorseman1

05-29-2007, 10:14 AM

97 T&C - - I have read several post about climate control blower working only on HIGH, but mine will work normally (on any setting) and then just stop blowing altogether. It may take a few mintues or days and it will start working again. You never know when it is going to happen. What should I try replacing first? Is this the same problem as those who's blower works on high only or something different?

Any help is greatly appreciated - especially with the weather getting hot!!!

p.s. I posted this in the general question area also.

I would start with the Blower Motor RELAY in your case. Sometimes, the contacts inside this relay can become so pitted, burned or encrusted with crud that the circuit will not provide full power to the Blower Motor. When it gets really bad (and it always does, eventually, get really bad with age), I can easily imagine that this relay might not provide any power at all. My experience has been that before a total relay failure, intermittant failures come first, just like the situation you described.

Hoff316 explained that he found an identical relay (for high beam lights) that he used to identify a broken relay. Depending on your model year, you may be able to do the same thing or for less than $20 just go ahead and replace the relay... your '97 is probably due for a replacement anyway.

icerabbit

05-30-2007, 09:40 AM

I am happy I found this thread, since I experience the problem fan a/c and recirc only work on high.

I would like to replace the resistor myself, but am having a bit of a tough time removing it.

I tried to unplug the wire, holding down the little clip & pulling, but it is like glued in there. Even a careful pry around with a flat screwdriver between the male & female part of the connector doesn't seem to help. I was getting very worried as the female part that sits in the car frame / firewall was getting looser.

In the photos, it appears that the big bulky plastic assembly - which obstructs easy access - is removed. Is this required? And how is it done.

To remove the resistor with the wires still plugged in I gather I:
A) Disconnect the battery wires?
Or would removing the 40A and/or some other fuse to the trick?

B) then carefully pry something between the light colored part and the wall to try to push down one part of the clamp and then tilt the connector bit out.

Thanks for your help.

icerabbit

05-30-2007, 09:42 AM

PS: This was linked from the allpar minivan forum :)

HeadlessHorseman1

06-05-2007, 02:48 PM

PS: This was linked from the allpar minivan forum :)
Like the instructions say... remove the negative battery cable from the battery BEFORE you do anything. Yes, getting the Resistor Block out of the firewall is a bear... you just have to keep working at it... the reason it's getting looser is because the metal clips that hold it in the firewall are beginning to bend... this is normal.

You didn't mention what year and model you have, so I cannot suggest much more than this.

Good Luck!

Nik73

07-10-2007, 09:48 PM

HeadlessHorseman1

07-11-2007, 02:19 PM

I Have a 2001 D GC Sport with problem #1 and my resistor block is behind the glove box in plastic housing for the blower and ducting. I pulled it out and it looked brand new and no corrosion could it still be bad?????:banghead:If the connector to the Resistor Block is not melted or burned and your blower is blowing air at high speed only, then yes, I would say your Resistor Block is Bad, no matter what it looks like.

dreams11

07-18-2007, 11:09 PM

I have a problem that doesn't seem to be addresed here. I have a 2000 grand voyager se with 130,000 miles. The blower has suddenly stopped working alltogether. The fuse was bad so I replaced but that just blew again.

I replaced it again and payed better attention to what happens, the fuse was fine untill i turned the blower switch on (just the switch the fan didn't actually work) the ac light didn't go on untill i turned up the fan to max but still didn't start the blower fan but at this point the fuse started to glow red so i switched the fan control to off to not fry the fuse.

what could be causing the fuse to keep blowing and the fan not to work even before the fuse blows?

Thanks

scott

egc519mzl

07-19-2007, 04:02 PM

I also have a problem with fan two days ago. It would only run on high. Reading upon this thread confirms my suspicion that it is the resistor.
dreams11, the reason why fuse would fail is because it has too much currect going through the line than the fuse could handle. Thus, short circuit is eminent. I don't know how difficult but I would start by disconnecting the blower and turning on the fan. Check if current goes thru the fuse (you have to remove the fuse and insert the tester). If you don't see a current, there is probably a short in the blower.

eckelbee

07-21-2007, 07:24 AM

We have a 2001 Grand Sport flex fuel engine with the mentioned blower problems. The front fan operates normal but the aft only worked in high, now it doesnt work altogether.

I took apart the area in the back passenger compartment and noted 12 volts at the blower and thought the fan was inop. I then pulled it out and applied 12 volts from the battery to the fan leads and the fan operates normal.

Does the same resitor block behind the glove box control both front and aft fans? Is there another resistor block that I should be looking for in the aft compartment? Also in my T/S, I noted what I was hoping to be the aft resistor block turned out to be a solid state looking device once removed. When the plug was removed from this device, power was also removed from the blower fan plug and vise versa.

HeadlessHorseman1

07-22-2007, 09:23 AM

HeadlessHorseman1

07-22-2007, 09:25 AM

eckelbee

07-26-2007, 03:54 PM

I went online and ordered part 5019189-AA, Resistor 8035022 from http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?siteid=213674. The part costed 12.94 plus 7.00 for s/h. When the part arrived I was surprised that it did not look like the resistor block in the front but the solid state looking device I found in the back. I plugged in the new part and it worked at all three speed settings.

Now this was for the 2001 Grand Caravan aft blower. I can get pictures if you would like. Also the Mopar website was really good as far as parts and prices as far as I could tell.

Thanks for pointing me in the correct general direction.

HeadlessHorseman1

07-26-2007, 06:23 PM

I went online and ordered part 5019189-AA, Resistor 8035022 from http://www.trademotion.com. The part costed 12.94 plus 7.00 for s/h. When the part arrived I was surprised that it did not look like the resistor block in the front but the solid state looking device I found in the back. I plugged in the new part and it worked at all three speed settings.

Now this was for the 2001 Grand Caravan aft blower. I can get pictures if you would like. Also the Mopar website was really good as far as parts and prices as far as I could tell.

Thanks for pointing me in the correct general direction.That's great, eck! Glad it helped. Do you know how much money you saved by doing it yourself? Thank you for the part details and web site info. If you wouldn't mind putting up some pictures, that would be really good. This procedure covers only the front blower, but someone, somewhere, sooner or later will read through the procedure and all the posts looking for hints on the rear blower (probably have already). Thanks for taking time, getting back and posting... posts like yours have helped make this one of the HOTTEST thread on AutomotiveForums.com! (MOST posts, MOST views and a five-star rating in the Caravan/Voyager forum!)

91cabernetcaravan

07-26-2007, 07:45 PM

WHoa! Great. Thanks, Stevo2!
Very interesting. This safety feature is nowhere mentioned in the manuals I have. Okay, I have enough to move forward now.
As I mentioned before, I'm not much of a weekend mechanic compared to you guys, but I will make an attempt to trace down issue as best I can in my garage. If I find out anything of interest, I'll drop in here again.

You know, this is fun. A good practical learning experience, if nothing else.
Thanks for being here, guys, and thanks for the feedback. I will follow up.

Neil in Tujunga

Well, hey gang! Months have passed since my last visit and I received a pleasant surprise today.
My cabernet caravan got a little overheated on my way to my mechanic's shop, which was strange since I just had major work done two weeks prior. New radiator and hoses etc.
Also, it's been hot as hell around here lately -- heh, July in L.A., who'd a thunk it?? -- so I did run my A/C, lame as it is with the popping and vibrating flappers.
Can you see this one coming?
SUrprise!! My Heater Valve -- the original equipment on a car with -- are you sitting down? -- 223,442 miles on the odometer -- finally completely failed.
For a few clams, my mechanic replaced it -- and -- DOUBLE SURPRISE!! -- now my A/C works swimmingly!http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/images/smilies/grinyes.gif

So my problem was a leaky valve that was progressively failing over the years. These valves are all plastic. Day after day, heating and cooling, expanding and contracting, over a very long time the plastic became brittle and cracked. So it leaked causing the A/C issue I mentioned months ago here in this very forum.

When my mechanic handed me the culprit you could easily see how far gone the unit was. What is amazing though, is how long it kept trying to do the job before finally giving up the ghost. It was ORIGINAL equipment, sixteen years. I still say it now. I think Chrysler/Dodge makes great stuff!

Thanks -- everyone here -- for all of your helpful information. You turned a minor annoyance into an educational and enlightening experience. THAT is what the internet is all about, IMHO.
Hope my experience here will help someone else with a similar issue.

Neil in Tujunga
July 2007http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/images/smilies/cheers.gif

airpoff

08-04-2007, 01:07 PM

HeadlessHorseman1

08-05-2007, 08:38 PM

can you tell me where you bought the resistor block. the Auto Zone doesnt know what it is? please helpI don't think that Autozone stocks a part like that... at least the Autozone in my town doesn't. You have to go to a Chrysler/Dodge/Plymouth dealer or RockAuto.Com. There may me other places I do not know about. Anyway, my original post tells you where you get all the parts you need. For the Resistor Block, my original post goes like this:

Resistor Block:
OEM=by my Dodge dealer was $16USD which includes 6% CT state sales tax);
http://www.RockAuto.Com (http://www.rockauto.com/) - Standard Motor Products Part=RU93 ($15.40 + $5.63 Shipping)
NOTE 1: OEM Part# for the 2001 Caravan is 4885583-AB RESISTOR 8035022 (Thank you Parky50!)
NOTE 2: OEM Part# for the 2005 Caravan is 4885583AC.
(Thank you pwilliams517 at http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showthread...ed=1#post865984 (http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showthread.php?p=865984&posted=1#post865984) )

Good Luck!

airpoff

08-06-2007, 07:30 PM

I don't think that Autozone stocks a part like that... at least the Autozone in my town doesn't. You have to go to a Chrysler/Dodge/Plymouth dealer or RockAuto.Com. There may me other places I do not know about. Anyway, my original post tells you where you get all the parts you need. For the Resistor Block, my original post goes like this:

Resistor Block:
OEM=by my Dodge dealer was $16USD which includes 6% CT state sales tax);
http://www.RockAuto.Com (http://www.rockauto.com/) - Standard Motor Products Part=RU93 ($15.40 + $5.63 Shipping)
NOTE 1: OEM Part# for the 2001 Caravan is 4885583-AB RESISTOR 8035022 (Thank you Parky50!)
NOTE 2: OEM Part# for the 2005 Caravan is 4885583AC.
(Thank you pwilliams517 at http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showthread...ed=1#post865984 (http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showthread.php?p=865984&posted=1#post865984) )

Good Luck!well i found the blower resistor at O"Rielly auto for 12:00$ and it fixed the blower speeds but not the recerculat button(spell check).also I found out the prob with the recirculation button. I need the recirculation air door actuator, located below the blower motor. I can tap on it and it will start working.

HeadlessHorseman1

08-07-2007, 09:18 AM

well i found the blower resistor at O"Rielly auto for 12:00$ and it fixed the blower speeds but not the recerculat button(spell check).also I found out the prob with the recirculation button. I need the recirculation air door actuator, located below the blower motor. I can tap on it and it will start working.There is a reprogramming procedure that may fix that problem, but I do not know what that is for your model year. It has something to do with pressing certain buttons on the dash panel together to start the routine. Sorry, but you will have to find that information some place else. Again, Good Luck!

egc519mzl

08-13-2007, 04:17 AM

I want to thank you guys for creating and keeping this thread. It is a great help. HeadlessHorseman1. Thanks to you.

My blower only ran at hi-speed. I replaced the resistor I bought from Autozone and it is working now. I didn't have to push it out from the glove compartment, though. I used a wide-mouth plier and tried to pull it out from the engine compartment.

HeadlessHorseman1

08-13-2007, 10:01 AM

egc519mzl

08-22-2007, 07:31 PM

I definitely did. Aside from that, I had a peace of mind that only that piece was replaced. Lastly, I had fun and learned more.

Thanks again...

fastclock

09-06-2007, 10:22 AM

Thank you for the wealth of information in the forum and especially in this thread. I have a 1999 Plymouth Grand Voyager SE which has the blower working only on the high speed. Therefore, it's the blower resistor fault. I'm pretty much a newbie in the mechanics dept, so pls be patient.

I've disconnected the neg battery, and proceed to dislodge the blower resistor from the wall using the screwdriver, by pressing on the springs. So, it's loose now. However, the thing didn't want to come out after a couple of inches. It's inhibited by the tight space in-between the top of the strut tower and the bottom of the wiper block. There is also the AC pipe in front of it which block easy access to it.

My question: 1) what is the easiest way to take out the blower resistor then... Is it possible to force it out, or should I remove other part to take it out?

Thank you for your patience. I can also try including a picture if that would help.

Close view:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/12959620@N08/1341006399/

Longer view:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/12959620@N08/1341894004/

Under the hood:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/12959620@N08/1341006621/

fastclock

09-08-2007, 09:04 AM

2001es

09-08-2007, 04:16 PM

I have a problem with my 2001 GC es.. The A/C blower will run when the ignition switch to ON and the Power botton is OFF anf it runs on high speed...If you push the recirculating botton the speed of the fan changes to high and low speed....Ive checked the relay and and the resistor and its ok they are in good shaped...
BTW, i removed the two connectors behind the climate control and the fan still running.. The fan speed is nt working as i have said it is running on one speed....no low,med,high...
Anyway \, anyone could relate the problem i have will highly appreciated...
Thank you..

Gervais8

10-05-2007, 05:50 PM

My fan was only working on high. I replaced the resistor and it worked on all speeds for a week, maybe. Now there's no fan at all. Also, the green a/c button will stay on even if the fan is off. If I have the fan turned off or even if the fan is turned on you can feel cool air coming through the vents but it's not blowing. The recirculate button is off but if you push it on you get no air at all from the front vents. The rear air works fine. I looked up underneath the glove box and felt around. The areas underneath were really cold from the a/c I assume. Can someone help with suggestions?

Dchall_San_Antonio

10-07-2007, 06:56 PM

Ahhhhh! Life's classic issues, and their solutions, are truly a thing of beauty to behold. My highest praise goes to you, Headlesshorseman, for your efforts in bringing a solution to so many of us. And certainly thanks to the other contributors. With all the models and versions, it would be very expensive for one person to learn all there is to know about this topic. You gotta love the Internet.

I just bought my second used Dodge Grand Caravan, a 2000 LE with 118,000 miles. I have been on hiatus from the DGC world since 2005 when my wife suddenly tired of our 96 in favor of a Mazda Tribute (if anyone has questions about that trade, I have some comments). My Honda finally got totaled after two previous attempts to wreck it, so I picked up the 2000 DGC near Ft Worth last weekend. I had forgotten about the fan motor problem until all the way to today (one week and just over 1,000 more miles). Well, I was expecting a car with issues, so...no problem.

I already went through this on the 96. Back then it was my wife's car and it had to be fixed immediately, so I spent the $400 to replace everything all at once. Since they replaced everything, I can't know for sure what was wrong. But now it is my car and I can do it myself (thanks to this classic post). I'll probably change the resistor block next weekend and go from there.

Dchall_San_Antonio

10-18-2007, 11:10 PM

When I wrote that before I had not read the original posts that carefully. Turns out the diagnosis was for either the relay or the motor. It was the motor.

I damaged the plastic squirrel cage at the rim trying to get it off the shaft. There was a crack but nothing separated. I filled the crack with Gorilla Glue and put it back together. So far so good.

One more thing. The wires on the new motor would not go through the inner grommet without hitting the squirrel cage. The wires come off the replacement motor differently from those on the OEM part. So instead of running it through the grommet, I ran them down the side of the motor using a tie wrap to guide/hold the wires down the side of the motor.

HeadlessHorseman1

10-19-2007, 07:01 AM

Ahhhhh! Life's classic issues, and their solutions, are truly a thing of beauty to behold. My highest praise goes to you, Headlesshorseman, for your efforts in bringing a solution to so many of us. And certainly thanks to the other contributors. With all the models and versions, it would be very expensive for one person to learn all there is to know about this topic. You gotta love the Internet.
...
I already went through this on the 96. Back then it was my wife's car and it had to be fixed immediately, so I spent the $400 to replace everything all at once. Since they replaced everything, I can't know for sure what was wrong. But now it is my car and I can do it myself (thanks to this classic post). I'll probably change the resistor block next weekend and go from there.

I have long felt that the best thing to do when encountering ANY problem with the (1) relay, (2) resistor and/or (3) blower motor was to replace everything all at once. I am on my 2nd relay, second resistor and my 3rd blower motor since I bought my GC/LE in '96. In the beginning, I would replace these items 1 or maybe 2 at a time only to have the other(s) crap out soon after (within a year, usually).

When I started this thread almost 3 years ago, I decided to replace all 3 components at once (relay, resistor and blower motor)... and I have not had a problem since then. Replacing all 3 at once may seem excessive, but in the long run, I spend less time fixing things and worrying about which of these doodads will crap out next.

P.S. I just turned over 251,000 on the odometer of my 1996 GC/LE with the 3.8 liter motor... the best motor I have EVER owned, at that includes several new Toyotas, a Datsun and a Nissan. On my GC/LE, I have replaced 1 water pump, 1 alternator and 1 idler pulley... that's it. (The transmission however, well, let's not go there... I am on my 3rd.)

HeadlessHorseman1

10-19-2007, 07:08 AM

HeadlessHorseman1

10-19-2007, 07:10 AM

HeadlessHorseman1

10-19-2007, 07:15 AM

I'm done replacing the blower motor resistor, and now the blower has all the speed settings :) Got help from my father in law :)

So, after setting the AC pipe aside, it is still a struggle to pull out the resistor through the space in between the strut tower and the wiper block, but it can be done. I took out the wiring + resistor, and then pull out the wiring from the old resistor, put in the wiring on the new resistor ($13.60 from the dealer).

I clip the left bottom part of the board support of the resistor, this helps a lot in inserting the new set back on the firewall.

And finally, the rusted resistor:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/12959620@N08/1346032847/

Yep, your pic is pretty much what I found when I finally got my resistor block out of the firewall. I did not have all of the problems you encountered but I was not surprised to read about them. Resistor blocks in mid-to-late 90's Caravans have always been a bee-otch to remove and replace. So, we can add your knuckle-skinning story to the long list of other blood-letting sagas the engineers at Chrysler has cooked up for us.

Congratulations on your success!

fastclock

10-22-2007, 08:50 AM

Yep, your pic is pretty much what I found when I finally got my resistor block out of the firewall. I did not have all of the problems you encountered but I was not surprised to read about them. Resistor blocks in mid-to-late 90's Caravans have always been a bee-otch to remove and replace. So, we can add your knuckle-skinning story to the long list of other blood-letting sagas the engineers at Chrysler has cooked up for us.

Congratulations on your success!

The fan died a month ago after making some growling sounds and stopping after two-hours drive. So, I replaced the relay, and the fan still wouldn't work. After ordering a used blower motor from car-part.com (not sure how long will keep the van, $10 part + $13 shipping), I replace the whole fan+cage without a problem. I'm not sure I can replace just the motor, so took this path.

Thanks for the info again. Now the fan is blowing just fine.

HeadlessHorseman1

10-22-2007, 03:38 PM

The fan died a month ago after making some growling sounds and stopping after two-hours drive. So, I replaced the relay, and the fan still wouldn't work. After ordering a used blower motor from car-part.com (not sure how long will keep the van, $10 part + $13 shipping), I replace the whole fan+cage without a problem. I'm not sure I can replace just the motor, so took this path.

Thanks for the info again. Now the fan is blowing just fine.You're welcome and, actually, you *can* replace just the motor, but you have to remove the squirrel cage from the old one and press it onto the motor shaft of the new motor (the procedure is in my original page 1 post). At any rate, I'm glad it all worked out for you... congrats!

Krazy Jeff

11-03-2007, 08:20 PM

HeadlessHorseman1

11-03-2007, 09:46 PM

First of all a big thanks to HeadlessHorseman for providing us a great tutorial.

My situation fits Question #3 - Does your AC/Heater Blower Motor seem to "growl," run slow or stop altogether AFTER running for awhile, though sometimes it seems by turning it off and waiting awhile the problem resolves itself, but only temporarily?

Here are my symptoms. I turn on car, turn on ac/heater, it's blowing out of the vents, then I turn off car, turn on car, and then the ac/heater sometimes just doesn't turn on. Or when driving, it turns off, and it won't turn on again, until probably I turn off the car and let it sit there for a few hours or so.

Here is what I have done so far to troubleshoot it.

I replaced the Blower Motor Relay. (but the symptoms still persist).
I then disconnected the connector where the blower motor gets its power from (removed glove compartment) I then connected a voltage meter on the connector where the blower gets it's power from. I notice that it's getting 12 volts of power. I then reconnect the blower. Go through the procedures of getting the blower to fail (as explained above in the symptoms). Once the blower fails, I disconnect the power adapter and test it again with the voltmeter and now it's getting no voltage. So the conclusion is that the motor doesn't run, because it's not getting anymore voltage. (so it can't be a bad motor blower) Could I be right?
I then go to the Fuse & Relay Center and barely tap the blower relay and it turns on. I then proceed in turning on and off the car and then see when the motor blower fails. Once it does, I just tap the top part of the fuse & relay center and voila, it turns on.This is where I am currently stuck at. Why is it that I barely tap on the cover of the Fuse & Relay Center (underneath the hood) and it seems to reset the relay box? Please help?

Also, can someone explain what is the main purpose of the blower relay? Could there be a way for me to bypass the blower relay so the blower motor is constantly getting 12 volts and it only turns on by turning on the switch on the AC/Heater Controller?

I haven't tried testing the resistor, because all levels of the fan works Low/Mid/High. So this is why I haven't bothered to see if this could be the problem.Obviously, your 40amp fuse is good and since you replaced the Relay, we should assume it is also good. When the Blower Motor blows, it works at all speeds, so it seems safe to assume that the Resistor Block is OK too. You did not mention whether or not your Blower Motor is "growling"... if it is "growling" (running very slow), the Blower Motor would probably need to be replaced. "Tapping" the Fuse & Relay Center cover seems to cause the blower to work, so I would suspect that 1 or more of the 4 or 5 Relay prongs have a bad socket connection or possibly there is a wiring issue. It is possible that you purchased a defective Relay, but I doubt it. This is where I would start...

1. disconnect the negative battery cable,

2. remove the relay,

3. get some canned air (the kind you use to blow out computer keyboards) and blow out the sockets used to plug in the relay,

4. get some dielectric grease and carefully coat each metal prong of the relay using a Q-tip,

5. reinsert the relay,

6. reconnect the negative battery cable,

7. test,

8. come back here and let us know how you made out.

BTW, the purpose of the Relay is to handle the high-amp load of the Blower Motor circuit... relays do a better job of this than a simple switch (which would probably burn out in a short period of time without a Relay between the switch and the motor).

Good luck!

P.S. Thank you for your kind words about the effectiveness of this thread... this has been and continues to be a collaborative effort that has grown over the past three years with several key people contributing comments and pictures and others who come back after they've fixed the problem(s) to provide helpful and insightful notes in this thread. Thanks to everyone who has participated, this is the most viewed, most posted thread in this forum. There is a solution to your Caravan's problem and when we find it, if you return to post your comments, you too will become a contributor to this thread. :) Once again... thanks to All!

Krazy Jeff

11-04-2007, 01:50 AM

HeadlessHorseman1

11-04-2007, 05:10 AM

Thanks for the quick reply. I will definitely try the canned air and dielectric grease. (Question? When you buy new spark plugs, do they normally give you a dielectric grease in a small clear bag? If yes, I got a whole bunch.. lol)

Define "growl"? When I put it on low, it blows the air low, at half way it blows the air moderately, and when its on high it really pushed the air. I wish there was a better way to gauge this to make sure it is blowing at its optimum speed or power.

Wish me luck, I'll be testing this tomorrow or by Monday.I have never received small clear bags of dielectric grease with plugs I've bought in the past. I wouldn't think dielectric grease would hold up well in the high heat. I have used copper-based anti-sieze "grease" on the threads of spark plugs to improve conductivity and make their eventual replacement easier.

I would not use the stuff that came with your plugs on the metal prongs of the Blower Motor Relay unless it specifically states on the bag that it IS dielectric grease... it might make things worse.

It sounds like your Blower Motor is OK... "growling" is what happens when the Blower Motor spins very slowly, slower and slower and may eventually stop spinning altogether... like the bearing is bad and siezes up. It also sounds like your Relay and Resistor Block is OK.

Please do come back and let everyone here know about your progress... Good Luck!

paitchison

11-11-2007, 07:23 PM

HeadlessHorseman1

11-11-2007, 10:50 PM

I'm not really a DIY'er, as I have a valid Automotive Mechanic's Licence, although I haven't been in the trade for a little while.
I have spent approximately 9 hours trouble shooting my heater problem. I had it traced to the heater relay, but spent 8 of the 9 hours trying to locate that little black $%#*2+. That's even with a factory shop manual !!! I have the scrapes and cuts to prove it. I was all set to start installing a new wiring and relay, when I decided to Google "1996 Caravan heater" and found your site. To say the least I was relieved. I followed your instruction exactly and now have a perfectly fine heater system again. I have documented the procedure with 15 annotated digital pictures and would send them to you, if I could figure out how. Email me at paul_aitchison@hotmail.com, if you would like them.Thank you for taking the time to record your experience for the rest of us dumb slobs.
Paul AitchisonI would like to begin by saying you are not a dumb slob, Paul... hey man, I fixed my heater system for the first time three years ago and felt like I was out there on my own. That was the reason why I started this thread way back then... so guys wouldn't have to go through the same "pain and suffering."

Yes, I would like to get the pictures you took!... and thank YOU Paul for coming back to this web site to share your experiences... this thread just keeps getting better and better because guys like you help make it that way!

Congratulations on your success... it makes me personally very happy to know that there is more money in YOUR pocket and not in Chrysler's bank account... I wish you MANY years of problem free service.

:)

mux

11-12-2007, 07:36 PM

(The transmission however, well, let's not go there... I am on my 3rd.)

Are you sure the transmission was actually bad? I had some issues with the Dodge Caravan that I own but it turned out to be the shift selenoid and the wiring to the sensor on the transmission.

My van would not shift gears it was stuck in 2nd gear and after a lot of research and troubleshooting I was able to replace the shift selenoid and all was fine. The selenoid was not cheap but it was a whole lot cheaper and easier to fix than a transmission replacement.

Dodge Caravans have what they call limp home and the tranny will not change from 2nd gear.

Thanks for all the info on the heater resistors I will be replacing that soon.

HeadlessHorseman1

11-12-2007, 10:23 PM

Are you sure the transmission was actually bad? I had some issues with the Dodge Caravan that I own but it turned out to be the shift selenoid and the wiring to the sensor on the transmission.

My van would not shift gears it was stuck in 2nd gear and after a lot of research and troubleshooting I was able to replace the shift selenoid and all was fine. The selenoid was not cheap but it was a whole lot cheaper and easier to fix than a transmission replacement.

Dodge Caravans have what they call limp home and the tranny will not change from 2nd gear.

Thanks for all the info on the heater resistors I will be replacing that soon.Wellllll... there I was parked at a stop light, light turns green and I accelerate. Then... BANG! I lose all power and my transmission literally sounds like a large coffee can filled with nuts and bolts being rattled around.

It was U-G-L-Y. In addition, I blew a half-shaft. Not one of my better days. :shakehead

mux

11-13-2007, 08:02 AM

Wellllll... there I was parked at a stop light, light turns green and I accelerate. Then... BANG! I lose all power and my transmission literally sounds like a large coffee can filled with nuts and bolts being rattled around.

It was U-G-L-Y. In addition, I blew a half-shaft. Not one of my better days. :shakehead

That leaves little doubt.. hahaha..

Krazy Jeff

11-21-2007, 05:52 AM

Sorry for the late reply, got tied up with work and life--you know how it gets.

Anyways, I did try your suggestion to blow and grease (sounds like porn LOL) up the relay's connections. It must have worked, because it has been a few days now and the blower seems to be working okay without the symptoms I reported here (click here (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showpost.php?p=5006754&postcount=114))

But I do have now a new symptom to report. It doesn't happen all the time, but it does happen and it has me scratching my head. The blower seems to turn off when I put my vehicle in reverse. It will then turn on once I put the vehicle in the Drive gear. It doesn't happen all the time, but it does happen. I am wondering if you could suggest a troubleshoot on this as well?

Thanks a million for being such a helpful person.

HeadlessHorseman1

11-21-2007, 07:05 AM

...I do have now a new symptom to report. It doesn't happen all the time, but it does happen and it has me scratching my head. The blower seems to turn off when I put my vehicle in reverse. It will then turn on once I put the vehicle in the Drive gear. It doesn't happen all the time, but it does happen. I am wondering if you could suggest a troubleshoot on this as well?...You got me on that one... I have NO idea. Maybe if RIP (AF Advisor) sees this post he can offer some insight. You might try sending RIP a private message... He's seen ALL kinds of stuff. Sorry I can't be more helpful.

polarisxcr

11-29-2007, 04:09 PM

HeadlessHorseman1

12-09-2007, 09:30 PM

I have a 99 dodge grand caravan sport. Started by replacing the resistor, then the fuses and relay finally the switch mounted in the dash. I have power going to the relay in the power distrabution center. There is no power going to the fan switch on the dash or the fan resistor or the fan. I also have no power going to the fuse under the dash for the blower motor. If I put direct power from the battery to the fan I can get the fan to work. Any sugestions were to go next. Thanks headlesshorseman for your post I thought with all this info I could fix it. Any other ideas?It sounds like your problem is somewhere between the fuse and the switch. You will have to get a wiring schematic and follow the wiring from the fuse to the switch, testing along the way. If you recently installed a replacement stereo head unit, you may wish to re-check the wiring and plugs in the vicinity of the device. Sometimes just moving stuff around under the dashboard can cause a problem. Good luck!

HeadlessHorseman1

12-14-2007, 08:16 AM

After nearly THREE years, my Blower Motor is no longer pushing air, so now I get to troubleshoot the problem all over again. Seems like this always happens in the winter, when it is least convenient. Back in January of 2005, I replaced the Resistor Block, Relay and Blower Motor. Truth be told, I run the Blower Motor all the time, in any weather, hot, cold, wet, dry. If it turns out to be the Blower Motor, this will be my third replacement since 1999...

...The 40 amp fuse, relay and resistor block all checked out OK. It was the Blower Motor. One trip to Advance Auto, $53 in hand and about an hour later, I am back up and running. I replaced the relay (a spare I purchased 3 years ago) to absolutely ensure that full amperage is passed to the blower motor. Total cost: $67. Total satisfaction: 100%.

dhjort

12-21-2007, 08:57 PM

Oops!! My subject line says 1991 but my van is really a 1999 Dodge Caravan. I think this matters a lot because I thought they changed the role that vacuum plays in the climate control system in 1999.

I have used this great thread to replace the blower motor on my 1999 Dodge Caravan. The instructions worked like a champ and saved me $300 in labor a couple of days before Christmas - thank you very much!

Now I have good airflow out the panel vents and the heat works like a champ too. The fan operates at the various speeds as expected so I am pretty sure that I don't have problems with the resistor either.

The problem is that I can't get the air to blow out the lower vents on the floor or get the defroster to work at all.

When I change the setting on the vent selector I can hear a small click sometimes like something is trying to change but I don't know what to troubleshoot next.

The van is not safe to drive up here in the Northwest because we really need the defroster in our wet, cold environment.

HeadlessHorseman1

12-22-2007, 06:17 AM

...The problem is that I can't get the air to blow out the lower vents on the floor or get the defroster to work at all. When I change the setting on the vent selector I can hear a small click sometimes like something is trying to change but I don't know what to troubleshoot next. The van is not safe to drive up here in the Northwest because we really need the defroster in our wet, cold environment.There may be a fix for this problem available elsewhere on this forum. If RIP or viperegg reads this, perhaps they can redirect you to one or more threads that specifically deal with "blending doors." I know there is a re-programming routine to get these doors to properly operate. I have never needed to do this, so I do not know precisely how this is done. Sorry about that.

polarisxcr

12-22-2007, 09:19 AM

HeadlessHorseman1

12-25-2007, 12:30 PM

Heater fan is up and working. I replaced the fan motor and resistor with another new one. My old fan burnt out the first new resistor. Wierd thing is my old fan still works works if I hook it up to direct power. It must have to much resistance. Now over to the chev forum as my truck heater fan now works when it feels like it.What you describe may NOT be weird at all... I think I've been there, seen that... it sounds like the blower motor relay *contacts* may be partially burned or pitted and not passing full amperage to the motor... that's why your old motor runs connected directly to power and does not run installed (getting power through the relay). Do yourself a favor and spend another $15 or so and replace the relay... your new motor will run better AND longer, because your current relay is definitely on its way out. Good luck and Merry Christmas!

garcar

01-05-2008, 01:10 PM

Like so many others, my fan only blows on high speed. Got a new resistor block at the dealer for $6. Yes, six dollars only.

For my 1994 GC, the resistor is seen under the hood, at the extreme top left of the firewall, oriented vertically. It is fairly accessible from that side, but looking from the other side, it is nowhere near the glove box.

And that's where I'm stopped. Instead of being held in with spring clips, the old resistor is held in by HEX BOLTS. These bolts are just spinning when I turn them, and won't pull out. And there seems to be no way to get to the other side to remove whatever nut might be holding them, short of a massive disassembly of the dash.

But if there are nuts on the other side of the firewall, how did they put them on? When the car was first assembled, just to make replacement of the resistor impossible?

My only thought is to start smashing at these hex bolts with a hammer and screwdriver and try to knock their heads off. I'm a little worried that might destroy the holes and make it hard to fix the new resistor in place.

Any better ideas?

HeadlessHorseman1

01-05-2008, 05:13 PM

... My only thought is to start smashing at these hex bolts with a hammer and screwdriver and try to knock their heads off. I'm a little worried that might destroy the holes and make it hard to fix the new resistor in place. Any better ideas?IMHO, smashing>=bad. If it looks like your Resistor Block is located near your glove box, you might take the glove box door and box off to see if you can locate your spinning bolts. Get a helper to spin the bolts from under the hood while you look into the glove box area with a flash light. Just my :2cents:. Good luck!

mudnut

01-05-2008, 05:37 PM

I found the Resistor Block located directly behind the glove box on my 2001 Caravan. Simply open the glove box and push in the two tabs on each side to open the door all the way and there it is !!! :)

Part # 4885583-AB RESISTOR 8035022

Heater Blower works like a charm now !!!

Thanks to all for the information and direction... :cheers:

My wife's 2001 Caravan had an issue posted in this forum. Heater blower only worked on the Hi setting. After reading this forum, (what a wonderful place), I found the above entry and called the Dodge dealer. They gave me a different part number #68039175-AA, 8035022. He asked me whether our vehicle had Automatic Temp. Control, I said "No".

So your part # may also differ. But the original part# got me to the right place. Thanks for the posts.
I took a few pictures of my installation, which was behind the glove box door. 2 screws and 2 wire harness connectors and it works perfect.

Here are the pics:
http://picasaweb.google.com/mtrewartha/Auto_Cycle_Maint/photo#5152136766268206306
http://picasaweb.google.com/mtrewartha/Auto_Cycle_Maint/photo#5152136757678271698
http://picasaweb.google.com/mtrewartha/Auto_Cycle_Maint/photo#5152136774858140914

Hope these help.

Mark

Dchall_San_Antonio

01-06-2008, 02:12 AM

And that's where I'm stopped. Instead of being held in with spring clips, the old resistor is held in by HEX BOLTS. These bolts are just spinning when I turn them, and won't pull out. And there seems to be no way to get to the other side to remove whatever nut might be holding them, short of a massive disassembly of the dash.

My only thought is to start smashing at these hex bolts with a hammer and screwdriver and try to knock their heads off. I'm a little worried that might destroy the holes and make it hard to fix the new resistor in place.

Any better ideas?If you cannot reach the nuts from inside the van, then...

1. Guess at the size of the bolt
2. Find a drill bit that size
3. Drill through the top of the hex head in line with the bolt.

When you reach the bottom of the head, the head will fall off and the rest of the bolt will drop back behind the firewall. If the bolt is already spinning and you cannot retighten it, you'll have to hold it still to drill it. Use a box wrench for that. If you guess too small the drill will penetrate deeper than the bolt head depth. If that happens, first try using a center punch to break the bolt head off. When that doesn't work, just come back with the next size larger drill.

Then you'll have to figure a way to reattach the resistor to the firewall.

HeadlessHorseman1

01-06-2008, 07:05 AM

... Here are the pics:
http://picasaweb.google.com/mtrewartha/Auto_Cycle_Maint/photo#5152136766268206306
http://picasaweb.google.com/mtrewartha/Auto_Cycle_Maint/photo#5152136757678271698
http://picasaweb.google.com/mtrewartha/Auto_Cycle_Maint/photo#5152136774858140914

Hope these help.

MarkThanks for coming back and posting the results of your work on your wife's 2001 Caravan... Thanks also for going to the trouble of taking pictures... this thread just keeps getting better and more useful... Happy New Year!

BigJake1939

01-09-2008, 12:07 PM

This has been a very helpful thread !! Thank You

:bigthumb:

HeadlessHorseman1

01-09-2008, 01:23 PM

This has been a very helpful thread !! Thank You

:bigthumb:BigJake1939... Thanks for coming back and signing up to AutomotiveForums for the first time to post your thanks... maybe, we might just be doing something right!... :lol:

webbee

01-09-2008, 04:50 PM

Just reread this GREAT thread and want to say thanks to HeadlessHorseman1 for getting it going! This is what the internet should be all about. People helping people.
My contributation from Allpar's site, here are the summerized climate control computer codes (http://www.allpar.com/fix/codes-climate.html). I think someone mentioned they needed them.

wgwax

01-15-2008, 05:16 PM

HeadlessHorseman1

01-16-2008, 04:36 AM

Thanks to this forum I replaced the resistor block on my 2001 grand caravan the day after I found that the blower only worked on high. Works fine now and only set me back 20 bucks and 5 minutes labor.Thanks for coming back and signing up to AutomotiveForums for the first time to post your thanks... This lets us know that we might just be doing something right!... Congratulations on your SUCCESS!... :lol:

HeadlessHorseman1

01-16-2008, 05:01 AM

Just reread this GREAT thread... This is what the internet should be all about. People helping people.I totally agree... People helping people... I think that this thread is getting better all the time because people keep coming back and posting their discoveries, experiences and, yes, their SUCCESSES! Thanks for checking in webbee... good feedback is always nice to hear. :)

Maybe we should also thank Chrysler who made this thread necessary in the first place. :cya:
Nah... let's pat ourselves on the back and get on with our lives instead. :popcorn:

Bigbuckjohn

01-20-2008, 01:27 PM

Just wanted to say thanks for a GREAT forum. My wife's 2001 Grand Caravan with 180,000 miles (that somehow I have inherited for driving to work since she got a new car) had the blower motor only operating on Hi speed problem. I first spent $75 on a used climate control panel before I found this forum on the internet. Of course the control panel didn't help a thing and I found out by reading this forum that is is probably the Resistor Block. I found it under the hood just as described (I haven't taken it out yet tho) and I found the part (RU93) on rockauto.com for $9.43 (and $9.24 for shipping). I'm sure that is the problem, just wish I had found this great page before I spent the first $75. (If anyone needs the climate control panel, let me know). Also, I found you can find the climate control panel on ebay for much less than I gave for it. Thanks again, you guys are GREAT!:)

HeadlessHorseman1

01-20-2008, 02:46 PM

...Just wanted to say thanks for a GREAT forum... you guys are GREAT!:)Thanks for coming back, signing up to Automotive forums and sharing for the first time... good job, and congratulations!

wadekier

01-24-2008, 08:33 PM

Bigbuckjohn

01-25-2008, 08:03 PM

I'll echo the sentiments -- this has been a great thread! My problem is a little different -- fans / etc work great, but the recirculation door is stuck / broken, so I'm constantly recirculating the interior air. When it's wet / rainy outside, the windows always steam up and I have to run the air conditioner to dry the air out. I may just lodge the recirculation door open -- I never used it before anyway. I assume I go through the glove compartment or instrument panel, but after looking at posted photos, not sure where to go from there. I have a 2000 Grand Caravan with the 3.8l engine. I'd appreciate any pointers! Thanks in advance

Hmmmm-now that you mention it, the same thing happens to my 2001, I just thought it was because I could only run the fan on Hi speed. I did read something in the earlier threads that it could be due to a vacuum leak--but I admit I know nothing about how the whole thing works. I just like to throw the switches around and stay comfortable while driving. Maybe someone out there knows what the problem is and how to fix it. With 50,000 people belonging to this great forum, I bet someone knows.:)

Bigbuckjohn

01-25-2008, 08:07 PM

Anyone know where I can get the schematic for the wiring on a 98 Dodge Ram 1500? The interior overhead console lights never worked when I bought the truck used. I have checked the fuses, bulbs, connections (in the overhead) and they are all good, but I can't find the wires under the dash. Any help would be appreciated.

harpeth

01-26-2008, 04:18 PM

I discovered this string a week ago, and now I'm happy to report a successfully replaced '99 GC blower motor assembly. I went the "expensive" route, however, and bought the blower replacement unit from the dealer, for $171 with Tenn. state and local tax. I replaced the motor resistor first, which helped some, followed by the blower relay, which made no difference, before concluding that the motor needed replacing.

The cautions about the delicacy of the cage/fan, and the effort required to disassemble and reassemble all the components, prompted me to go the easy way and buy the preassembled unit. I've got so many things going on that the thought of having to do all that work was discouraging to me. I'll just have to content myself with saving the $125-$175 in labor the dealer would have charged for the same job.

John

garcar

02-05-2008, 03:59 PM

I finally got the old resistor out of my 1994 GC, the one where the block is found under the hood at the upper right (left as you look at it) corner of the firewall, in a location where you can't get to the other side through the glovebox. And without smashing.

I had thought the bolts holding it were spinning on nuts behind the firewall. But turns out they just aren't threaded all the way to their heads, presumably so they can't be overtightened. You have to pull on the resistor block or pry the heads out as you turn them, so the threads can grab onto the firewall and lead the bolt out. Sometimes it's that simple.

I put in the new resistor and voila, all the fan speeds are back, as expected.

Total cost of repair: $6 for the resistor block at the local dealer.

Thanks to Dchall and HeadlessHorseman for your input!

Krazy Jeff

02-05-2008, 04:41 PM

Just wanted to say that somehow my issue with the blower has fixed itself. All I did was clean out the socket where the relay sits as instructed here in this thread, and ever since then, my blower is working 100%. Thanks for the help!!

computernerd

02-06-2008, 04:24 PM

Great instructions. Saved me some money.

The blower motor in my 1996 Grand Caravan had been growling for quite a while. Sometimes it wouldn't work at all. When it worked it worked in all speeds, but it always had the growling sound.

I first replaced the relay. That had no effect at all, but it seemed like the thing to try since it was only $10.

Next I replaced the blower motor. I think the instructions here could be improved some. I didn't use a hacksaw, hub puller, C-clamp, vise, hammer, etc... I don't have any of those (Ok, so I have a hammer!) What I do have is a set of stairs in the garage that have vertical railing. The rails are spaced wide enough for the blower motor to fit through, but not wide enough for the fan/cage to fit through.

So first I removed the housing from the blower motor (2 screws, and I had to untwist the wires a bit to remove the housing.) Then I stood on the stairs, held the motor over the outside of the railing and sat down and pulled the motor between 2 of the rails until the fan/cage was touching the 2 rails. Then I pulled harder and off came the fan/cage and onto the floor it went. It's not nearly as fragile as the instructions led me to believe, but considering how much it costs, you definitely want to be careful with it. So if doing it again, I would have someone on the other side of the railing to keep it from falling.

My final cost for replacing the relay and the blower motor: $62

HeadlessHorseman1

02-11-2008, 07:15 AM

Great instructions. Saved me some money... My final cost for replacing the relay and the blower motor: $62Thanks for coming back and posting the results of your work! Replacing the relay and motor together will guarantee MANY years of trouble-free operation. On top of that, you saved yourself at least $200 you would have otherwise paid to a dealer (parts and labor)... SWEET.

Congratulations!

1985ta

02-15-2008, 11:45 PM

HeadlessHorseman1

02-19-2008, 02:15 PM

Thanks for all of the help..I looked for answers to this blower problem..and I found so much help here. It cost me 20 minutes and 12 bucks to fix it..(although Dodge doesnt make it very easy to replace unless youre a contorsionist) ..haha....Thanks to you guys! Thanks for your input.
Thank you for coming back, signing up to AutomotiveForums.Com and posting your Success Story. It's always gratifying to learn that another Chrysler/Dodge/Plymouth owner managed to keep a couple of hundred dollars in their pocket. Good job, good luck and thanks again!

etaoinsh

02-26-2008, 04:18 PM

Etaoinsh, I sent you an email about how to begin handling this issue. Please let me know if you got it. Thanks.

Got it and am working through the list right now.

Update: Completed and reply sent to your email address.

Thanks.

P.S. Let me know if you need THIS post deleted as well.

boseefus

04-27-2008, 12:41 AM

We have a 1998 Dodge Caravan Sport and started having blower motor problems last fall. After replacing the blower motor, we drove it home on our 3 miles of gravel roads. Before long, dust was pouring in from all of the vents. This had never happened before. As soon as the damp weather moved in, our windows started fogging up on us. The tempurature in the van would become warmer and very humid. We had to keep a rag in the van to keep the windows clear enough to see. Sometimes the tempurature would suddenly cool down and the windows would start clearing up. We also had an episode late winter when the snow was thawing. Water was dripping through the vents, seams, etc., of the roof liner. Possible the build up of condensation between the liner and the roof? Now that the roads are dry again, instead of condensation on the windows, we have a van full of dust again. Our dealer doesn't seem to know what the problem could be and doesn't believe their replacing the blower motor had anything to do with all of this. Do you have any suggestions? Might it be the computer? The dust coming into the vehicle reminds us of when we would leave the recirculation switch on. Could it be that the shutter door is not working properly because of the computer problems. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

boseefus

05-01-2008, 11:50 PM

Wow, didn't think my problem was such a head scratcher. Fixed it on my own. New AC/heat control module.

redddogg60

05-08-2008, 07:21 PM

I have an '02 grand caravan and the blower motor started acting up today...it is the fully digital style cluster w/dual climate control and rear air. The rear unit is working fine. The front unit fan will not turn off and has only "AUTO" high/low fan control. The "manual" fan control has no function at this point. Also, when the units power is shut off the fan automaticly goes into HIGH mode (even though the indicator lights are out). My question is...does this sound like a "control panel" problem or the "Resistor Problem" described in your wonderful troubleshooting guide. Should I buy a new "control panel" or a "resistor block"??? Thanks in advance for any help you may offer.

Saginaw44

05-11-2008, 10:28 PM

jjmounds

06-04-2008, 04:21 PM

1994 Dodge Caravan that is blowing air through the air conditioner but doesn't get cold. What could be the problems that are causing this?

Saginaw44

06-04-2008, 06:49 PM

I had the same problem. It could be it just needs a freon charge, or you could have my bad luck and you could have a bad compressor which we have not fixed yet. We were given a price around $900 to fix it. Hopefully you just need the freon.

HeadlessHorseman1

06-11-2008, 05:53 AM

I just wanted to thank you for your information on the location of the Relay for a 1996 Grand Voyager, you were right on about the location and how difficult it was to get too. Ours is working now, thanks to you !!!! Great instructions !!!!:thumbsup:
Thanks for coming back and posting the results of your work. Pat yourself on the back... you saved yourself at least $100 for diagnosing and fixing the problem on your own. Good job!

Saginaw44

06-11-2008, 03:14 PM

Hi HeadlessHorseman1,

Thank you for giving perfect instructions to the fix. You couldn't have explained it any better, it was just as stated. :worshippy

4carmichaels

06-28-2008, 10:50 AM

Thanks for the thread. It made the installation of the resistor block easy on our 98 grand caravan. However, before I move on to the next step I wanted to get an opinion.

symptoms.
- the fan would only work on high. Based on everyone’s great info it appear that I would need to replace the resistor block. After I got it out I saw that the one of the coils corroded and broke. the pig tail looked fine.
-Before I installed the new block I tested the fan one more time to see if was still only worked on high. It did. I installed the new block and now the blower will not come on at all. I checked the fuse and that was ok.
-One of the final things that I noticed was a little strange, even with the switch in the off position, the lights to a/c button and the circulator button remain on if the car is turned on. (this did happen before I replaced it but it only happened a couple of times.

-I thought it may be the relay issue so I switched it with another relay in the Power Distribution Center (PDC). Still nothing. I am guessing that it would not be the blower motor issue since I see the power issue noted above? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Saginaw44

06-28-2008, 07:36 PM

Not too sure about what is happening with yours because ours was completely dead. But I did want to mention, that we had initially put in a new fuse and found we had to replace the other parts. After replacing everything still nothing. Only to find out that at some point while changing the other parts , the fuse was blown again. We could barely see where the metal was melted away in the fuse. Try a fuse, just to be sure, even if you put in a new one. It's inexpensive and could save you a lot of time.
Good luck !! Let us know when you find out the problem please.

4carmichaels

06-29-2008, 08:04 AM

Saginaw44

06-29-2008, 06:39 PM

Sorry I was hoping for an easy fix for you !

andye43

07-24-2008, 11:42 AM

This is my first post here and I’d like to thank several of the contributors to this forum for posting details that helped me fix my Caravan blower motor/fan assembly. The detailed listing by Headless Horseman from 1/2/05 was especially helpful and I hope that he is still looking in to this thread.

I have a 1998 Dodge Caravan Sport. More than 6 months ago the blower motor/fan began making intermittent various chirping and squealing noises. It would be fine at times; at other times it was not. Coincidently, my 2000 Buick Regal did the same thing within a week! I removed the Buick’s blower motor and on that unit could easily disassemble the motor and grease the motor shaft. No more problems there.

After much trial and error I finally concluded that fixing the existing Caravan blower motor was not possible and I also concluded that removing the fan to replace the motor only was not an option. I tried, but the fan was too resistant to being removed and I couldn’t trust not breaking it and being without a unit until a new one could be ordered.

I started checking prices on line for a motor/fan assembly and found $60 to $70 “base” units and other units for $300 plus. What’s the difference? I also called the parts departments in local dealers and got pricing from $188 to $234 to $460! Without labor!! Then I searched eBay.

When asked, two eBay vendors suggested that I get the OEM number from a local dealer to be sure that what they were selling would fit my Caravan. One dealer (I think the $460 one) would not give me the number (probably afraid that I was shopping on the internet...guess why), another gave me 4874204AB. One of the eBay vendors said his item would fit and he’d guarantee it or I could return it. It cost me just under $60 including shipping.

After the unit was received I found that only one of the three bolt holes lined up and I had to drill two of the plastic mounts to move the bolt holes about 1/8” to 3/16”. It’s been in two days now and is running quiet...and my wife loves me again. Thanks guys.

RachelDZ

07-25-2008, 04:44 PM

I have a 1998 Chrysler Town & Country LXI. I am replacing the resistor block and pigtail today because my airconditioner only blows on high. My question: is it neccessary to solder the pigtail wires together or can I just twist them together then shrink tube over? This is what my father suggests because he's "never soldered anything under the hood a day in my life!" I would appreciate a prompt response as I need to get my van back together this evening by the time my husband gets home from work.

Thanks a bunch! This post has been absolutely helpful!

*Oh, by the way, you CANNOT see the resistor from the glovebox in the '98. And having small hands and a big screwdriver made pulling the resistor out take only a few minutes. I put my hand and big screwdriver in the hole above and to the right of the resistor, pressed on the spring retainer on the right side from the back, and then pulled it out turning toward the left. I found it impossible to release the spring retainers from the front.

Hope this helps someone!

dburn70

08-24-2008, 12:03 PM

webbee

08-25-2008, 05:20 PM

Try replacing the resistor block again. They seem to be poorly manufactured these days and aren't lasting too long. Was the replacement from the $tealer?

RIP

08-25-2008, 07:54 PM

I thought my problem was the same. My front blower does not work at all on my 2005 Grand Caravan. I replaced the blower motor and the relay, but it didn't help. I took the resister block out, and it looks brand new. not a bit of corrosion to be seen on either the block or connector. I also checked the fuse several times, and replaced it with another one. The back blower works fine.

I also have a rotten egg smell coming from the front of the car, and I noticed it was really bad under the dash while replacing the blower motor.

Any ideas? I suppose I could replace the resister block anyway, but it seems like it should look at least a little worn.

Step number one when your blower doesn't work at all after you check the fuse, disconnect the blower motor connector, turn the blower switch on, turn ignition to on, check for 12 volts dc. If it's there, change the blower motor. If it's not, go backwards in the circuit till you find the voltage. This eliminates wasted time and money. A multimeter can be your best friend.

Rotten egg smell could be an overheated battery or a bad cat converter. Only two sources of sulfur in any form that comes to mind.

HeadlessHorseman1

08-27-2008, 10:06 AM

willpapa

08-29-2008, 07:13 AM

RIP

08-29-2008, 01:49 PM

1997 DODGE CARVAN, RADIATOR FANS CONTINOUSLY RUN...

Please Help !!!! Anyone!!! My radiator fans continously run after the van is turned off...I have to unhook both fans to stop them...I've checked the fuse near the PDC and it's good...WHat else could it be? Please help?

First, this should be a stand alone thread. Next time try to remember to make your own thread instead of burying your issue in another thread. You're more likely to get responses and you won't clutter an unrelated thread. You're here so we'll help.

Your fan issue is a common one. The common fix is replacing the cooling fan relay. Many have trouble finding it. It's on the driver's side of the frame the radiator is bolted to. Remove the air intake resonator and look down. You should see an approx 1 inch square contraption with 4 wires leading to it. The relay cost from $30 to $60. There was a recall on this relay on 96 & 97 vans several years ago. Give your dealer the VIN # of your van, They can tell you if it's been replaced under the recall. If it hasn't been you might get this fixed for free.

Chris in NY State

11-12-2008, 10:23 PM

Hey y'all,

I have a 96 Caravan that wont heat up when the temperature goes below 35 degrees outside... I'm thinking, after doing some research, that it may be a door not opening/closing... Where do I get a diagram for the vacuum hoses to connect??

jangofett

11-23-2008, 10:10 PM

david.d

11-23-2008, 11:27 PM

Great Article! My symptoms included: Only high speed worked, and it tended to run slow & growl. I purchased a blower motor, Resistor & Relay & a neighbor & I did the repair today on a '97 Caravan. We replaced the blower motor, reusing the fan cage.

The Resistor wasn't too difficult to remove from the firewall, but to get it completely free, I had to loosen the clamp that holds the air conditioning metal tube (bolted into the strut tower). After easing the tube a little, I was able to remove the Resistor competely. The Resistor was in BAD shape and had started melting a corner of the wiring harness. After cleaning it up, we decided to reuse the harness.

Next, we test started the van. All of the speeds worked properly with no growling. We decided to forgo replacing the Relay, since its location makes it quite a task, & my knowledgeable neighbor seemed to think the motor & resistor were the only two faulty parts.

david.d

11-23-2008, 11:34 PM

My edit button doesn't seem to want to work, so edit (clarification) to above:

By 'Article' I meant the detailed 1st post by HeadlessHoreseman.

Thanks alot, Headless!!

GAC3800

11-30-2008, 11:12 AM

Our 1996 Town & Country's blower would only work on the highest speed. My wife found this site and emailed it to me.
The solution was the resistor block. The information and photos were right on and saved me much time and hassle. THANK YOU!!

big_vinnyk

12-02-2008, 11:59 PM

This has been a very interesting thread. I have a 96 plymouth voyager that has simialr symptoms. My battery died the other day. I replaced the battery and the van starts, but now I have another problem. The blower motor doesn't run at all. The turn signals also do not work. The hazards are fine, but the turn signals do not work. The high beam switch works, so I'm fairly sure the switch is fine. None of the rear wiper, a/c, or recirculate buttons work either. The 40A fuse in the PDC is fine. I haven't been able to crawl around too much outside to check the resistor block or relay yet. The question is do you think I need to? I haven't read anyone else having the same problem, no motor, no buttons, no turn signals. I am looking for any help or suggestions.

Thanks,

Vin

big_vinnyk

12-06-2008, 03:56 PM

Any help out there? I can't let the wife drive the kids in a van with no turn signals and no heat, especially when the temp is 15 degrees out. I'm stuck. Anyone have any suggestions?

Vin

DanielaErler

12-09-2008, 09:17 PM

GrandcaravanMan

12-10-2008, 03:06 PM

Hello all,

I have been reading this very informative post and my brain is just frying like an egg. My 2005 GC 3.3 has just lost heat, but, here is the difference.

When I turn my heater on and set the two slides for driver/passenger all the way to full heat, I don't get heat. Now, my fan switch works in all positions, low thru high, and not just in high.The back fan works also.

Although my fan works in all speeds it only blows hot air when I rev the engine up over 3K RPMs. I suspect that that is just engine heat but never the less it's heat.

So, I have everything working as far as the fan blowing in all positions, now does that mean my relays are fine or would the fan/blower still blow if the relay was bad? Does the relay turn the actual HEATING unit on also?

I'm sorry if I'm sounding redundant but it just seems that in my case everything is blowing and working fine but just not blowing hot air.

Could any of this be due to a bad T-Stat?

Thanks,
Jeff

jpb53

12-10-2008, 05:18 PM

Try this site to order parts http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?siteid=214996 resistor part# 4677180ad wiring pigtail part # 5003316aa

DanielaErler

12-10-2008, 07:37 PM

Thanks for the link!

On Jeff's note: I know this might sound too obvious, but this is just the right time of the year for this to happen: have you checked the level of antifreeze? I just had exactly that problem myself and it turned out I have a leaking antifreeze hose... Sorry I can't give you more input, I am really anything but an expert when it comes to cars...

Good luck!
Daniela

BIGJAY1274

01-08-2009, 01:34 PM

Thanks a lot Headless and everyone that contributed to this thread.
I have an '02 Grand Caravan ES 3.8L, my blower would only work on high and when I tried to turn it off it only blew harder!
I followed what was said here and replaced the resistor block (Part #4885482AA, $79 from the dealer). I wonder what the dealer would have charged me to do this job :mad:
I just replaced it today so hopefully that did the job for the longterm.

P.S. I would have posted a pic of the part but I don't see where I can do that.

BIGJAY1274

01-08-2009, 01:49 PM

getochkn

01-16-2009, 02:07 PM

98 Caravan Sport SE, 3.3L. So about 6 months ago my heater/ac would only work on high. From reading that's usually the resistor block. Then last week I got no blowing at all. I had to bring it in to get the front end looked at and had them look at the heating. They said the blower motor is completly seized and thats why it wasn't working on lower levels, took a full 12v to get it going at all. Now that its not working, It seems that the circulation button/ac button will turn on even if the unit is completly off. Some other reading said that was a relay. I checked the fuse, fine, swapped the relay with another one (one for the horn I think, they looked the same) horn works, both buttons still work, switched the relays back, horn still works, fans don't, both buttons do. Could a dead motor cause all these problems? What else should I be looking at replacing. I trust the place I brought it to and they said they tested the motor and its seized right up, so I have a new motor to put in along with my tierods. Just wondering if that could cause all the problems or should I just be ready to replace the resistor block and relay as well. I'm having a friend do all the work for me, and we're going to a rent-a-bay place so I don't want to be wasting time having to run out and get stuff when we're paying for the bay by the hour. Where are abouts are the wires for blower motor. I could try and get at them and hook up the new motor I got just to test and see if it works before the weekend when we goto the garage so I can see if its the motor and if the new motor works. Pictures would help. I'm good with electronic electrical so I'm not worried about that, just never done much car work, so I don't know where anything is.

andye43

01-19-2009, 07:15 AM

For the '98 Sport, you find the power plug for the blower motor behind the glove box which is easy to remove or just flip down after you disengage the plastic support "cables" on either side. Sounds like you bought your motor already. I found local prices from $175 to $300+ and bought a new aftermarket on eBay for $60 delivered that works like the original.

HeadlessHorseman1

01-25-2009, 05:51 PM

HeadlessHorseman1

01-25-2009, 05:55 PM

Hi Everyone!

I just joined the club of 96-Dodge-Caravan-with-messed-up-heating-system owners about a week ago.

I just replaced the blower motor relay. I also wanted to replace the resistor block, but I noticed that the actual problem was with the resistor connecor which was completely fried. I called Napa, but they told me the connector per se needs to be ordered from the dealer himself - I don't believe in conspiracy theories, but I am sure there is one right here - they would only sell me that thing if they were to install the wires themselves, which makes about couple hundred bucks total, which I find ridiculous.

Hence, my question is: where on Earth can I order a resistor connector including the 5 wires... is there a place online? Anything?

Thanks a million for your help!

Cheers,
Daniela
Assuming your Dodge/Chrysler dealer is still in business, he should be happy to sell you the Resistor Block PIGTAIL you need. If not, find another dealer not suffering from dementia. There is a procedure in my original post about how to safely install this replacement pigtail, including marine-grade heat-shrink tubing (including lots of pictures). If you follow it word-for-word, you can't miss.

LiquidPain

01-29-2009, 07:43 PM

Such a resource! Thanks for the info! I swapped out the resistor on my 2001 in below zero weather in about two minutes! The hardest part was making sure I didn't break the plastic of the glove box. Now I have to search for fixes for my wife's car. Thanks again!

coopdavillage

02-03-2009, 10:51 PM

Ok I think I might have a stumper but lets see. I have searched the entire thread and uless I missed it my issue wasnt listed.

The issue I am having is my fan has the standard issue where it will work on all positions but #4 but it also will stop blowing sometimes and it takes a kick to the blower motor housing to get it to start up.
The biggest issue is that tonight when my fan was turned on (dark outside) my gauge needles started flipping out, the odometer blanked out, the headlights were flickering and the stereo was having issues as well. then we stopped and the cab lights didnt come on and there was a clicking under the dash.
My instincts tell me that its possibly the relay but I wanted to get any opinions that might help.
If its all 3 items I think I'm giong to take it out back and shoot it......

thanks in advance

Hanss

02-15-2009, 06:29 PM

I had the same problem with blower motor resistor on my Grand Caravan 2005. The Solutuion for this issue was pretty simple. Just change your TCO (thermal cutoff = thermal fuse). The original TCO has 240V/144°C/10A. You can try to find it at any Radioshack Store in the States, but it is problem to find the same one in Canada. I did check all electronic component strores in my area and there is no way how to get the original one 240V/144°C/10A.

However I found another solution for Canadian "Dodge Troublesh oters".:smile: You can use another TCO for 250V/141°C/15A from NTE brand Part# NTE8139. Technical specs are here: http://www.nteinc.com/specs/8000to8999/pdf/TCOs.pdf (http://www.nteinc.com/specs/8000to8999/pdf/TCOs.pdf))

As far as the amperage for NTE8139 TCO is 10A continuous and original one is 10A also the 15A on NTE8139 is a Max. peak amperage. So it is fine to use a TCO that is higher rated than the one in dodge application but not one that is less. As far as the temperature rating fot NTE8139 TCO is almost the same, because the TCO tolerance is +/- 4°C you can use it.

You can easily find it for $1.68 CDN at any electronic component stores or Radio Source stores Canada wide. In Ottawa area you can find it at Reset Electronic store or Active components store (check yellowpages for contact details).

There is no sense to buy a new thermal resistor ($40.00 CDN) because you have no guaranry that it's gonna work for a long time.

HeadlessHorseman1

03-03-2009, 08:33 PM

Just a couple of notes...

First, *thank you* everyone who came back and posted the results of the efforts to resolves their heating problems, especially if you had to create a new Automotive Forums account to do it... your follow up comments are enlightening and add immensely to the overall value of this thread!

Secondly, if you are trying to fix a 1999 Caravan or older and you have not yet replaced your Blower Motor RELAY as suggested, please DO IT! If you don't, worn and pitted contacts of the old relay will eventually provide less than full amperage/power from reaching the blower motor, preventing the motor from spinning at full RPM.

Old Blower Motor RELAY contacts can also weld themselves together in the closed position, causing the blower motor to continue running even after you have stopped the engine and removed the key... if this happens in cold weather, you will either very quickly run the battery dead or have to disconnect the battery to prevent this from happening.

Don't get caught away from home with kids in the car when this happens!

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