1996 Dodge Grand Caravan LE AC/Heater Blower, Relay and Resistor Block Problems 101

Last updated 22-February-2006 (See Document Revision History)

Introduction... Although these procedures were originally written specifically for the 1996 Dodge Grand Caravan LE, they have been updated to apply to all 1996, 1997 and 1998 Dodge Caravan, Plymouth Voyager and Chrysler Town & Country Mini-vans.

Additional helpful notes for other model years are scattered throughout this document. You can print this document or link to it... but be advised, I will continue to update this post as necessary with corrections, new and/or additional helpful information and any special notes.

Before you get started, you should run your VIN through Dodge's Recall Check Procedure. The results of this check may (or may not) have some bearing on your current problem and your Dealer may have to fix it FREE by law. To find out if your vehicle has any current unperformed or incomplete recalls or customer satisfaction notifications, get the last 8 characters of your VIN and go here to make sure that your vehicle has had ALL of its recall work done:
http://www-5.dodge.com/webselfservice/dodg...rm%28%27R%27%29 (http://www-5.dodge.com/webselfservice/dodge/index.jsp?screenName=recall&country=us&emailUrl=goToEmailForm%28%27R%27%29)

As an aside, here is a compiled list of helpful information sources which can be found in forums of various web sites and user communities (including this one):
http://www.allpar.com/forums/index.php?showforum=16
http://www.autobanter.com/forumdisplay.php?f=23
http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=47
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/...splay.php?f=139 (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/forumdisplay.php?f=139)
http://www.dodgeforum.com/forumid_30/tt.htm

And lastly, please read through this entire document to familiarize yourself with what it covers and what it does not cover. Your job will be a whole lot easier if you do... really.

Document Revision History... has been removed from the top and placed at the end of this document. If you find/found this document useful, please say so, even if you have to create a login ID to do so!... friends, that ALSO means that if you have information for model years or part numbers not mentioned in this document, please show your appreciation and post it so WE can make this document better than it already is! Check out the posts in this thread and the Revision History and you will see many names of thoughtful contributors... this document has become a collaborative effort!... thanks to YOU (and Chrysler engineering who made it necessary in the first place, of course :rolleyes: ).

So, THANK YOU EVERYONE, in advance, for SHARING! :)... special thanks to ksflatfoot, clrbrown, Parky50, pwilliams517, John Wood, carolinaquestions, and most recently, Stevo2 for contributing pictures, source information and helpful comments regarding these procedures. Thanks to your thoughtful contributions, you have helped make this thread the hottest thread on the forum!

Good News for 1992-1995 and 1997-2005 Caravan, T&C and Voyager Owners... Complete success has also been achieved by owners of newer Caravans, T&Cs and Voyagers (1997-2005) and owners of earlier models (1992-1995) who have used the following information as a guide, instead of following step-by-step procedures. These owners resolved their AC/Heater Blower issues even though physical locations of certain components and their part numbers were different.

So, my fellow DIYers, take heart!... Woo-Hoo!

Also, these procedures are intended to cover only the most common AC/Heater Blower issues... electrical shorts, mis-wiring and other "extraordinary" issues are NOT covered in these procedures.

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
There are 4 things that usually cause an AC/Heater Blower Motor to misbehave or stop working altogether...
1. A BLOWN 40Amp fuse,
2. A BURNED-out Resistor Block,
3. A BAD Blower Motor Relay, AND/OR
4. A WORN-out Blower Motor.
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
Question #1 - Does your AC/Heater Blower Motor work in high-speed only or possibly some other speed as well, but NOT all speeds?
Probable Cause: Bad/Corroded RESISTOR BLOCK.
Solution: Replace Resistor Block.
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
Question #2 - Does your AC/Heater Blower Motor NOT work AT ALL?
Probable Cause: Blown 40AMP FUSE, bad Resistor Block, bad Blower Motor RELAY and/or bad Blower MOTOR.
Solution: Inspect 40AMP fuse, replace if necessary. Inspect the Resistor Block and replace if necessary. If both 40 AMP fuse and Resistor Block are OK, replace the Blower Motor Relay FIRST. Then replace the Blower Motor, if necessary. Frankly though, I would replace BOTH Blower Motor Relay AND Blower Motor at the same time because a bad/marginal relay can cause a good motor to behave like a bad one and a good relay can also make a marginal motor temporarily appear better than it really is.
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
Question #3 - Does your AC/Heater Blower Motor seem to "growl," run slow or stop altogether AFTER running for awhile, though sometimes it seems by turning it off and waiting awhile the problem resolves itself, but only temporarily?
Probable Cause: Blower Motor RELAY contacts are burned or pitted, Blower MOTOR brushes worn and/or bad bearing in Blower MOTOR.
Solution: Replace Blower Motor Relay, then Blower Motor, if necessary, preferably, both the Blower Motor Relay and Blower Motor at the SAME time.
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
Question #4 - Does your AC/Heater Blower Motor continue to run after the engine is turned off and the key is removed from the ignition?
Probable Cause: Blower Motor RELAY contacts are "welded" in the closed position and refuse to cut power to the Blower Motor.
Solution: Replace Blower Motor Relay.
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

PART NUMBERS, MANUFACTURERS & POINT of PURCHASE

40AMP Fuse:This is available at one of the stores I mention below and/or at your dealer. Chris of RockAuto.Com emailed and told me "We do not carry the fuses for your car. Those are something you will need to purchase locally or at a dealership." Stevo2 at AutomotiveForums.Com says "If the 40 amp fuse is a Maxi-fuse than it is available from these places also. NAPA-BK 7821079 Kragen, Checker, Shucks, Rockauto-MAX40 Mopar-6101641." I am guesstimating that they cost somewhere between $1-$3USD each.

Resistor Block:
OEM=by my Dodge dealer was $16USD which includes 6% CT state sales tax);
http://www.RockAuto.Com - Standard Motor Products Part=RU93 ($15.40 + $5.63 Shipping)
NOTE 1: OEM Part# for the 2001 Caravan is 4885583-AB RESISTOR 8035022 (Thank you Parky50!)
NOTE 2: OEM Part# for the 2005 Caravan is 4885583AC.
(Thank you pwilliams517 at http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showthread...ed=1#post865984 (http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showthread.php?p=865984&posted=1#post865984) )

Blower Motor Relay:
OEM=4638094; GP Sorensen=MR76; AC Delco=15-8426; Hella=1410045; Niehoff Ignition=RL35301;Standard Motor Products=RY116 (prices I've seen vary between $8 and $13USD - the OEM price quoted by my Dodge dealer was $71USD [yeah, $71, that's NOT a typo] which includes 6% CT state sales tax)
NOTE: OEM Part# for the 2005 Caravan is 4727370AA.
(Thank you pwilliams517 at http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showthread...ed=1#post865984 (http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showthread.php?p=865984&posted=1#post865984) )

Blower Motor:
OEM=(go to your dealer); AC Delco=15-80104; Siemens=PM3324X-12V-02345; FactoryAir=35283; Four Seasons=35283 (prices I've seen vary from $45 and $60USD, the full OEM unit is between $130-$175USD - the OEM price quoted by my Dodge dealer was $137USD which includes 6% CT state sales tax)
NOTE: OEM Part# for the 2005 Caravan is 4885475AC.
(Thank you pwilliams517 at http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showthread...ed=1#post865984 (http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showthread.php?p=865984&posted=1#post865984) )

Stores/Places to Get Parts:
Advance Auto Parts; Auto Zone; CarQuest; Levine Automotive (in Connecticut USA); http://www.RockAuto.Com

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

COST COMPARISON DATA: My Dealer Does the Work / I Do the Work

My Dealer's Estimate
Blower Motor Relay - $66 (this is an outrageous, friggin' RIP-OFF!)
Blower Motor (DOES include new fan/cage & motor housing, all assembled) - $129
Resistor Block - $14
CT State Sales Tax on Parts - $12.54
Labor (2 hours @ $85/hour) - $170
TOTAL Dealer Price - $391.54

My Actual Costs
Blower Motor Relay - $11
Blower Motor (does NOT include new fan/cage & motor housing, JUST motor) - $44
Resistor Block - $14
CT State Sales Tax on Parts - $4.14
Labor (3 hours @$0/hour) - $0
My TOTAL Actual Cost - $73.14

TOTAL Savings - $318.40 - I reduced my repair bill over 81%

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

I apologize for the length of this "dissertation," but I hope it inspires others to include useful, detailed information in ALL of their messages posted on this board.

Step #1 - DISCONNECT the NEGATIVE Battery Cable from the battery. If you FAIL to do this, you risk shorting out a number of components that are EXPENSIVE to replace. You might also accidentally deploy either or both of your AIRBAGs which are HIDEOUSLY expensive to replace - not to mention extremely DANGEROUS with your head so close to these explosive devices!

Depending on the SYMPTOMS of your Caravan AC/Heater Blower Motor problem, you may wind up performing more than one problem resolution. Read through ALL of this BEFORE you decide what YOUR Step #2, #3 and so forth will be.

The first thing to remember is that their are at least FOUR main user-serviceable components in the the AC/Heater Blower system - 1.) 40 Amp Fuse, 2.) Resistor Block, 3.) Blower Motor Relay, and 4.) Blower Motor. Below are the procedures for checking and/or replacing these components. Good Luck, One and All!...

1.) 40AMP FUSE - located in the Power Distribution Center (PDC) under the hood on the driver-side fenderwell, according to my Haynes Manual #30011...

for the '96 Mini-Van is Fuse #3,
for the '97 Mini-Van is Fuse #3 or #7, and
for the '98 Mini-Van is Fuse #21.

The inside cover of the PDC for your Mini-Van will show you *exactly* where your Blower Motor Fuse is located. Carefully remove this fuse (pliers are OK if you are *careful*) and look at it - if it's bad, the little "loopy" conductor will be burned out - if so, replace the fuse. You are looking for a fuse that looks like this (contributed by Stevo2 at AutomotiveForums.Com):

http://partimages.genpt.com/partimages/217762.jpg

NOTE: In a 1997 Grand Caravan, "Production date = 7/96 - title and owners manual (is a) 1997 (Grand Caravan). The PDC is under the hood with the relay at position 5, fuse at position 3... {this per the diagram in Chilton's}" - carolinaquestions/AutomotiveForums.Com

2.) RESISTOR BLOCK - located under the hood, on the firewall, passenger-side, above and slightly to the right of the shock tower.

You do NOT have to pull this out of the firewall to inspect it (on a 1996 model at least) . Remove the glovebox/door. Get a flashlight. You can see the Resistor Block poking through, high up, on the firewall by peering through the hole where the glovebox/door used to be. You will recognize the Resistor Block by several coiled wires (looks like a heater element) contained in a rectantagular arrangement about 3 inches wide and 1 inch high. If you see ANY rust on these coils, I suggest you REPLACE it. Removal is a PITA (pain in the as*), but accomplished with the hood up and pulling it out of the firewall.

The Resistor Block is held in place with attached clips, not screws so, in theory, tools are not required to remove it from the firewall. It may, however, require a screw driver to pry it loose. My Resistor Block was in so tight that I considered using a pry bar... @#$%&!

It doesn't matter if you unplug the wires first and then remove the Resistor Block or remove the Resistor Block and wires together... I found it impossible to remove the wires, so I CAREFULLY wiggled/tugged the wires together with the Resistor Block out of the firewall. It's tight, but possible to do because I did it. Installation, obviously, can ALSO be a PITA... I plugged the new Resistor Block into the firewall FIRST and then plugged the wires into it... Keep some BandAids handly. I gave blood; you might too.

@#$%&! Dodge Engineers!

NOTE: In a 2005 Caravan, "The resistor is behind the glove box attached to the HVAC case with two bolts & two wire harness connectors (one to the blower motor & one from the speed controls) - pwilliams517"

Here are a few great pictures and comments contributed by John Wood of Allpar.Com (Thank you John!)...

* * * Start... by John Wood/Allpar.com: Jan 7 2006, 09:33 PM (this is an actual installation!) * * *

Let me add a little: This is from a 96 G Voyager and should apply for 96 to 2000 year models. To get the resistor block out of the opening, insert a small acrewdriver blade under the edge and keep it sideways while pushing it to the center. This will compress the spring retainer and you can pull the block out with ease.

Here is a picture of the opening (Ed. note... it's the rectangular opening):

http://photobucket.com/albums/f302/HeadlessHorsemn/100_0222.jpg

The resistor in this picture has no burnt coils, but the crimps for the coils are very badly corroded. This is typical.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v400/jbwood5/100_0221.jpg

The resistor connector was badly corroded and burned and will have to be replaced in this picture. The resistor block blade connectors were rusted into the connector plug and literally had to be pulled apart with channel locks.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v400/jbwood5/ResistorBlockConnector.jpg

* * * End... by John Wood/Allpar.com: Jan 7 2006, 09:33 PM * * *

If you need to repair Resistor Block Wiring, here are a few MORE great pictures and comments contributed by John Wood (Thank you, again John!)...

* * * Start... by John Wood/Allpar.com: Jan 11 2006, 08:00 PM (this is an actual installation!) * * *

I got my resistor and connector pigtail in today to repair my corroded resistor and burnt wiring connector. I took some pictures of the repair process.

New parts:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v400/jbwood5/100_0223.jpg

Soldering on new pigtail (they don't give you the heat shrink tubing but Home Depot has a nice supply of marine grade tubing).

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v400/jbwood5/100_0224.jpg

(Ed note... notice in this picture that the heat shrink tubing is now covering the soldered wires):

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v400/jbwood5/100_0225.jpg

Here is where it goes (Ed. note... the Resistor Block goes INTO the rectangular hole where John's fingers are sticking out):

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v400/jbwood5/100_0226.jpg

That was about $35 in parts but should finally resolve the missing blower speeds.

* * * End... by John Wood/Allpar.com: Jan 11 2006, 08:00 PM * * *

3.) BLOWER MOTOR RELAY - I have considered strangling the Dodge engineer who "designed" this device to reside in its installed location for the '96 Minivan. If your Minivan is a '97 or '98, location may vary. This is by far THE most difficult component to replace in a 1996 model, but it is also among the least expensive ($8-$13)... and doing so can resolve one or more of a number of problems. Get your tools out and allow between 1-2 hours for disassembly, replacement and reassembly. No kidding. You'll need a Phillips screwdriver, a 10mm socket and ratchet with a 6-to-8-inch extension, a flashlight and some electrical tape.

NOTE: In a 2005 Caravan, "The relay is in the main fuse/relay box under the hood between the battery & fender on driver's side. The box lid has the locations on the under side. - pwilliams517"

NOTE: In a 1997 Grand Caravan, "Production date = 7/96 - title and owners manual (is a) 1997 (Grand Caravan). The PDC is under the hood with the relay at position 5, fuse at position 3... {this per the diagram in Chilton's}" - carolinaquestions/AutomotiveForums.Com

a.) Remove the plastic facia below the steering column (4 or 5 Philips-head screws).

b.) Disconnect the parking brake cable from the facia (make a note about how the cable is attached - you have to lift the cable up and slide it sideways/outward to remove it from the facia).

c.) Remove the stamped-steel shroud beneath the steering column - it's (the one previously covered by the facia removed in Step b.) held on by about (12) 10mm hex-head screws - make a note of the screw types and their locations, there are 2 types of screws.

d.) Disconnect the hood release latch.

e.) Disconnect the computer diagnostics connector from the U-Channel crossmember.

f.) Uninstall the U-Channel crossmember - removing several 10mm hex-head screws get this job done. Trust me, you WILL need the extra clearance to get at the Blower Motor Relay later.

g.) Remove the Junction Box cover and unbolt the Junction Box (under the dash, driver's side, it contains relays and fuses, it also has the Body Control Module attached to its back) - there are three 10mm screws, each about 3 inches long that must be removed.

h.) GENTLY pull the Junction Box as far forward as possible. Behind the Junction Box, up high and attached to a clip on the firewall, is the Blower Motor Relay. (Now you know why I have considered strangling the "engineer" for this flash of brilliance). You will recognize the Blower Motor Relay as a "black box" with four wires (blue, green, orange/black and black). It's size is about 1"x1"x2".

i.) Carefully unclip/unfasten the Blower Motor Relay with wires attached from the firewall and GENTLY pull downward as far as possible. You will notice that a plastic depression clip holds the wired connector to the Blower Motor Relay... depress it and carefully pull the Blower Motor Relay out of its socket.

IMPORTANT NOTE: On the firewall, make SURE you push and flatten the clip that formerly held the Blower Motor Relay against the firewall so it does not contact the BCM/Junction Block when you reassemble your Caravan.

j.) You will notice that the OEM part has 4 prongs and your replacement part probably has 5; don't worry, the GP Sorensen, AC Delco and Hella parts work fine - I bought and tested ALL of them to make absolutely sure they would work. Plug your replacement part into the Blower Motor Relay socket with supreme confidence. :)

k.) Wrap a piece of electrical tape completely around the relay and its socket - this prevents dirt, dust and moisture from getting into and around the contact points and also makes it much less likely that the relay will somehow work its way out of the socket.

l.) Unless you are a certified masochist, do NOT attempt to reposition the Blower Motor Relay anywhere NEAR its original location. The special housing that came with the OEM relay is probably NOT part of the replacement part anyway (and do NOT attempt to reuse ANY piece of the old part). Keep the relay in view while you reassemble your Caravan and tuck/tape/bind it in any way you see fit after the reassembly is complete. That's what I did. Screw Dodge engineers. Anybody feel like storming Chrysler with torches and pitchforks by now?

But hey, pat yourself on the back - you're halfway home on this one. Get a beer. Or a glass of wine. Or whatever. But only ONE. You still need to remain focused. :)

m.) Starting with Step h., - reassembly is the reverse of disassembly.

NOTE: After you have reassembled the dash, your new Blower Motor Relay should be visible underneath and behind the Junction Box/BCM... make sure it is out of the way of your feet when you drive. If necessary, tuck, tape or strap this in any way you see fit so it will not move around under the dashboard. At any rate, it will NOW be a whole lot easier to replace this relay again, should you ever need to do so.

4.) BLOWER MOTOR - located under/behind the glovebox/door. If the symptoms of your AC/heater blower problem indicates a motor replacement, take heart in knowing this is not THE most difficult task to finish. Still, I write about this because I continue to be horrified by the prices of so-called replacement motor parts - between $130-$175USD from dealers. Gadzooks. Fact is, the motor, only, cost me $45USD (about 1/3 the cost of the OEM unit which also includes the motor housing and fan/cage). To pull off this procedure, however, a certain amount of "handyman savvy" is required.

a.) Remove the glovebox AND door... you may very well need the extra room.

b.) Remove the Blower Motor cover (four screws).

c.) Remove the Blower Motor ASSEMBLY (motor, fan/cage fan and fixture - three screws). You will probably need a flashlight to locate these screws. If you are NOT using the expensive OEM part and plan to reuse the motor housing and fan/cage, BE CAREFUL not to damage the fan/cage... it is "delicate."

If you bought a complete and expensive OEM replacement motor/fan, STOP HERE. All you need to do is reinstall it. However, if you did what I did and bought ONLY the motor for about 1/3 the cost (and did NOT break the fan/cage when removing the old motor!), proceed to Step d.

d.) FIRST, you must remove the old Blower Motor from its housing. There are 2 screws and 3 rubber bushings that center and hold the old motor in this housing. This is a little tricky, but it CAN be done.

NOTE: According to Boother at Automotive Forums, "I simply took the clip off, sprayed some liquid wrench in the shaft and had a helper hold a screw driver on my bench and pushed the cage off. The screw driver was used to push in the shaft/motor while I applied force to the cage." If that doesn't work for you, proceed to Step e.

e.) Remove the two screws from the bottom of the motor housing and, using a small flat-bladed screwdriver, carefully depress each of three rubber bushings to release the motor from its housing.

NOTE: Be EXTREMELY careful NOT to damage the fan/cage in ANY way... if you do, it's GAME OVER and you MUST buy the expensive replacement unit from your dealer!

f.) It IS possible to remove the fan/cage from the old motor for replacement on the new motor, but it requires VERY careful planning and execution. First, put the old Blower Motor tightly in a VISE, with the fan/cage upright (not tight enough to crush the housing, but tight enough to bang on it with a hammer [described below]).

g.) Lay a hacksaw blade flat on the top of the fan/cage, with teeth facing the motor spindle. Carefully saw sideways through the top of the plastic shaft on one side. Place the hacksaw blade on the other side (180 degrees) of the plastic shaft and saw through the plastic shaft to the metal motor spindle again. You should now have 2 notches on either side of the spindle (opposite sides), through the plastic shaft.

h.) Using a hammer and POINTED punch, score a dimple into the end of the metal motor spindle.

i.) Using a hub puller, place the blades of the puller into the scores of the plastic shaft you created in Step g. Use a C-clamp to push the grips into these scores (a fair amount, but not too much pressure).

j.) Rotate the hub puller clock-wise, centering the hub puller pin into the dimple you created in step h. Rotate the hub puller to gently lift the fan/cage about 1/2 inch UPWARD on the motor spindle.

k.) Remove the C-Clamp and hub puller. You should now be able to carefully and EVENLY lift from the bottom the fan/cage up and off the motor spindle. BE CAREFUL!

l.) The replacement motor I bought - I had to wrap this motor with a foam buffer strip (came with the motor) to properly fit in the stock OEM housing. You MAY have to modify the OEM motor housing in order to get the motor to seat FLUSH in housing - I had to carefully cut the center piece out of the end of the motor housing so I could get the motor to sit flush in the bottom of the housing. The two screws would NOT reach the new motor through the OEM motor housing otherwise. Make SURE the motor sits FLUSH in the bottom of the motor housing and the three rubber bushings are properly in place between the new motor and the OEM motor housing BEFORE attempting to screw in the two screws!

m.) Once done, carefully press the fan/cage back onto the new motor spindle. I did notice that the new motor spindle length was about 1/8" longer than the old OEM motor, so the new motor spindle protruded by that same amount beyond the fan/cage shaft. As a precaution, I mixed up a little epoxy and dabbed the end of the spindle so the fan/cage DEFINITELY would not slide on the spindle.

n.) Cut the wires (pigtail) off of the old motor as close to the old motor as possible (the black and blue wires with the grommet and plug... you will need to RE-USE this!) and strip the ends, leaving about 3/8 inch of exposed copper strands.

o.) Cut/shorten the wires from the new motor, leaving about 4 inches... and strip the ends of these wires, leaving about 3/8 inch of exposed copper strands.

p.) Using 10gauge/12gauge butts and proper crimping tool, attach the wires from the old pigtail to the wires on the new motor (black-to-black [ground-to-ground] FIRST, then the other wire, blue-to-whatever-the-other-color-is on the new motor). Make sure your crimps are TIGHT and wrap them well with electrical tape!

q.) Reinstallation is the reverse of installation, beginning with Step e. It is easy to break the fan/cage while reassembling as well... so please BE CAREFUL.

That's it...

I invite, urge and encourage anyone and EVERYONE to jump on this thread to add, correct, clarify, whatever on this subject... I think WE can do a better job than Chilton, Haynes and Chrysler!

Cheers!

DOCUMENT REVISION HISTORY
Updated 22-FEB-2006: Quick fix note for Blower Motor added. (Thank you Boother at AutomotiveForums.Com!)

Updated 30-JAN-2006: Pic of 40amp fuse and source info added (Thank you Stevo2 at AutomotiveForums.Com!)

Updated 18-JAN-2006: New NOTEs added regarding actual Fuse and Blower Motor RELAY locations in a 1997 Grand Caravan (production date 7/96) which differ in some respects from Haynes manual specifications (Thank you carolinaquestions at AutomotiveForums.Com!)

Updated 12-JAN-2006: Truly EXCELLENT pictures and commentary regarding removal and installation of Blower Motor RELAY contributed by John Wood of Allpar.Com (Thank you John Wood at AllPar.Com!)

Updated 06-JAN-2006: OEM Part Numbers and locations for 2005 Caravan Resistor Block, Blower Motor and Blower Motor Relay added... thanks pwilliams517 at DodgeTalk.Com!

Updated 06-JAN-2006: OEM Part Number for 2001 Caravan Resistor Block added!... thanks Parky50 at AutomotiveForums.Com!

Updated 04-JAN-2006: Good News for 1992-1995 and 1999-2005 Caravan, T&C and Voyager Owners added

Updated 13-DEC-2005: 40AMP fuse replacement source

Updated 12-DEC-2005: Resistor Block Replacement price and source (Rockauto.com)... thanks, clrbrown at AutomotiveForums.Com!

Updated 15-FEB-2005: ADDED additional helpful detail to Resistor Block Replacement... thanks, ksflatfoot at AutomotiveForums.Com!)

[Updated 15-FEB-2005: Define "PITA" - Pain in the As*... to replace a Resistor Block]

[Updated 26-JAN-2005: Title change and description to reflect '96-'98 Chrysler Minivans]

[Reworked 16-JAN-2005: Steps l.) and m.) of Blower Motor Installation Procedure]

[Updated 16-JAN-2005: ADDED 40AMP PDC Fuse Locations for '97 & '98 Mini-Vans

[Updated 16-JAN-2005: ADDED a few Helpful Notes about Blower Motor Relay Installation]

[Updated 09-JAN-2005: A few, minor, corrections]

[Updated 06-JAN-2005: Old Blower Motor Pigtail Installation]

[Updated 06-JAN-2005: COST Comparison Data ]

[Updated 05-JAN-2005: Misc. NEW information ]

Hello Headless Horseman, Excellent Post!


AutoPro

That's some seriously wicked post you have there Headless...I have a 1992 Dodge Grand Caravan (base model), and although your instructions are not specific to my year and particular model, they were very helpful in sorting our the issues I 'was' having with my front heater blower that conked out yesterday...and just an add on for ya, my vent temperature isn't all that hot, I've been told that a Rad. flush will solve my problem (hopefully after removing all that corroded crap, I don't leak anywhere)...I'll let ya know with an update to this post...

I'd try flushing the heater core before flushing the radiator.

Thank you for the detailed information regarding the resistor. It is most helpful. I have been trying to figure out where the resistor is in order to replace it. I just couldn't figure out where it is. I learned this is a dealer only item. A question for clarification though, do I remove screws from inside, and then pull it out and unplug the wires? I know it sounds easier than it is. I haven't been able to figure out what PITA is... I feel the same about Dodge engineers though. My Caravan has been a certified, class A money pit for the 3 years we have had it. Each time I spend a small fortune on it, I think surely this will be the end of major expenses and I can get my money's worth. A sorrier piece of waste I have never had the displeasure of driving. I want a vanity tag for the front "MONEYPIT"
ksflatfoot

PITA is an acronym for Pain In The . . . you can figure out the rest.

What about this one:

The air flow changes when you step on the gas and directs it to vents that it is not set to come out of?

The door that directs the airflow in your vents is vacuum actuated, when you accelerate hard it will steal vacuum from that system and all the airflow will end up at the defrost vents.

Thank you... A question for clarification though, do I remove screws from inside, and then pull it out and unplug the wires?... I haven't been able to figure out what PITA is... You are very welcome... As far as I know, the Resistor Block is held in place by two spring-clips. In theory, you should be able to pull it out of the firewall from under the hood - no screws involved, at least none on my '96 GC LE.

I gather you own a Dodge Caravan... what year is it?... it might matter.

However, it was NOT simple (for me at least) and I wound up cutting several fingers/knuckles, so please be careful... it may be tight and verrry difficult to get out.

I found it impossible to disconnect the wire bundle from the Resistor Block prior to actually removing the Resistor Block from the firewall, so I carefully tugged/wiggled the connection until the Resistor Block came out of the firewall.

I don't think it matters to disconnect the wires before or after you pull the Resistor Block out of the firewall. However, it *IS* important to disconnect the negative battery cable BEFORE you do ANYTHING... do NOT forget to do this :)!

P.S. I love your MONEYPIT vanity plate idea. So true!

any ideas from the group on where to find the resistor block online, at the prices mentioned?

For any dodge caravan (any dodge) parts goto:

https://www.rockauto.com/dbphp/mak,DODGE

Old thread but, a big thanks to HH. Outstanding instructions on changing the blower relay. You saved me a lot of "Oh !@#$'s" and bandaids. Like you, I'm thinking the engineers sat around a table with a couple six packs and came up with a humdinger of a way to screw with the DIYers out there. They couldn't have put it in a worse spot. Cheers!

I was just curious if anyone had more info for a 97 caravan. My issue is that the blower will work fine when it is cooler weather, but after it sits in the sun for awhile the blower won't come on at all. The fuse is still good, I couldn't see anything wrong with the relay (located in the power distribution center under the hood) but how can you tell with a 1 x 1 black box, and I couldn't find anything wrong with wiring behind the glove box. I'm open to suggestions, just trying to avoid multiple trips to the parts store. The material in this post has been helpful.

I have a 1999 Caravan with symptom #1 (only runs the motor on high speed), does anyone know if this resistor block is in roughly the same location?

I have a 1999 Caravan with symptom #1 (only runs the motor on high speed), does anyone know if this resistor block is in roughly the same location?

I have a 1998 Caravan. The resistor block is located on the passenger side, under the hood, in the fire wall. It has to be pried out. There is like spring tension bands on each side which hold it in the hole. It has to be unplugged from the wires. The new one changed and you are back in business. My blower would only work on high. There were some coil wires burned apart which could be seen after removing from the fire wall. It did take some doing. Of course it wasn't the easiest to get to for being comfortable, but not bad. I have seen worse. The hardest thing seemed to be trying to get the thing back in the slot. The tension bands on the new one did not seem tight. It can be wiggled in the slot whereas the old one seemed to be solid.

Got it fixed. It was the Resistor block. In the 1999 model you can't see it from the glove box. Too many obstructions. Oh, and the replacement cost is no longer $14, the bugger was $30 + tax at the dealer. Thanks for all the tips, the wife is happy, for now.

I just replaced mine yesterday since I was only able to use my blower on high. It's about about $27 CAD (tax included) at my local dealer. They wanted another $34+tax for new wiring. Since my connector was rusted to hell I decided to save myself some $$ and made myself one with connectors. It was a little more work but it works. I have a 96 Caravan.

After going through and responding to all posts I could find about heater blower issues back to October, I'm bumping this thread back to the top. As usual, cold weather brings out the worst in Dodge Engineering and I hope this post helps others save 100's of $'s. Also, thanks to clrbrown, I have been able to add information about getting a Resistor Block from a non-dealer source! Thank you everyone for your comments and feedback - Cheers!

P.S. After nearly a year since I replaced all the goodies I mention in this thread (and creating this thread), I have not had any heating or blower problems whatsoever.

After going through and responding to all posts I could find about heater blower issues back to October, I'm bumping this thread back to the top. As usual, cold weather brings out the worst in Dodge Engineering and I hope this post helps others save 100's of $'s. Also, thanks to clrbrown, I have been able to add information about getting a Resistor Block from a non-dealer source! Thank you everyone for your comments and feedback - Cheers!

P.S. After nearly a year since I replaced all the goodies I mention in this thread (and creating this thread), I have not had any heating or blower problems whatsoever.

Steve,
I have read your article, excellent. I have a 97 voyager though and my problem centers around the fact the blower works great but hot air is coming out the driverside and cold out the passenger. The reistat for the passenger does change the level of cold air coming out. The defrost vent, floor and dash vents on one side blow cold. Any suggestions?

I found this site last pm and certainly at the right time! I've replaced the fan motor and resister on this vehicle, but can get it to stop the defrost cycle. The little lights on the 2 press button switches blink all the time and you can tell that the ac compressor cycles on/off. any help will be greatly appreciated. Someone said that replacing the resister is PITA, and I, maybe, discovered a simple method to extract it from the firewall. took me maybe 10 minutes to do it. a very sinple idea! Has to be pretty basic for me!

I found this site last pm and certainly at the right time! I've replaced the fan motor and resister on this vehicle, but can get it to stop the defrost cycle. The little lights on the 2 press button switches blink all the time and you can tell that the ac compressor cycles on/off. any help will be greatly appreciated. Someone said that replacing the resister is PITA, and I, maybe, discovered a simple method to extract it from the firewall. took me maybe 10 minutes to do it. a very sinple idea! Has to be pretty basic for me!

I am sorry, but I do not have any ideas on your problem. Perhaps someone reading this thread may be able to help.
ksflatfoot

great article !!!!
I have a 2001 and my fan only works on high also but my rear heater fan controls don't work at all.I wondered if the rear blower gets power throught the same resistor as the front blower?

great article !!!!
I have a 2001 and my fan only works on high also but my rear heater fan controls don't work at all.I wondered if the rear blower gets power throught the same resistor as the front blower?
Hello, you will need a new resister block for the front blower only, the rear has only 2 speeds, ie, off, low and high, and is fused, so all you need to do there is find and replace the fuse. Be SURE to get the same fuse, DO NOT put a higher rated fuse, ie, a 20 for a 15, as you will cause a hazardous situation. Go to rockauto.com for this part #PU93, less than with S/H,less than $25.00, unless you reside in their state
BE SURE you disconnect the neg batter cable before doing anything. The resister block is under the hood, high up on the pass side, and here's the way to remove it;First take a 2-3 foot piece of wood, ( I used a n old paint stick, the type that you screw onto a paint roller), insert this stick all the way to the firewall engaging the R B, and push and pry the block out a little, (you can't pry it all the way out), then take a 20 penny nail and fashion a hook on the end, lock the nail into vise grip plilers, reach in and get hold of the RB and PULL it out on one side, you'll have more space on the other side to insert the hook, and again PULL, don't be worried that you will destroy something, cause you won't and the RB is shot anyway. You have got to wiggle, wobble the block out to where you can disconnect the wires and if you have a replacement on hand, you have saved a bunch of money. HAVE FUN !

Steve,
I have read your article, excellent. I have a 97 voyager though and my problem centers around the fact the blower works great but hot air is coming out the driverside and cold out the passenger. The reistat for the passenger does change the level of cold air coming out. The defrost vent, floor and dash vents on one side blow cold. Any suggestions?
I have heard of this problem before, but since I have not personally experienced it, I really don't know what to tell you. I do know that the separate controls for driver and passenger sides control multiple vents, so I would guess that it's the control or some part of that circuit. If anyone knows for sure, please post it here so that I can work the solution into my original post. This seems to be a fairly common problem. Sorry I cannot be more helpful.

However... I am trying to recall if there is some sort of program setup for the buttons that essentially resets the heating panel system. If this is true (and I am not just imagining that I heard this somewhere), I surely would like to hear from someone who knows about this and has actually been successful at doing it. If I recall correctly, this procedure also fixes issues like heat blowing out of some vents but not others.

great article !!!!
I have a 2001 and my fan only works on high also but my rear heater fan controls don't work at all.I wondered if the rear blower gets power throught the same resistor as the front blower?It sounds for sure like the Resistor Block is blown for your front Blower Motor. Check the fuse; if that isn't it, use a multimeter to determine whether or not the switch and motor are receiving any power (two separate tests). There may or may not be a relay involved in your rear heating situation as well. I know my Hayne's manual covers years 1996 through 1998, so I cannot say for sure where else the problem may be for your '01. I can tell you this... the Resistor Block on my '96 has no function at all for the rear heating system in my 2-zone GC LE.

I found this site last pm and certainly at the right time! I've replaced the fan motor and resister on this vehicle, but can get it to stop the defrost cycle. The little lights on the 2 press button switches blink all the time and you can tell that the ac compressor cycles on/off. any help will be greatly appreciated. Someone said that replacing the resister is PITA, and I, maybe, discovered a simple method to extract it from the firewall. took me maybe 10 minutes to do it. a very sinple idea! Has to be pretty basic for me!I am trying to recall if there is some sort of program setup for the buttons that essentially resets the heating panel system. If this is true (and I am not just imagining that I heard this somewhere), I surely would like to hear from someone who knows about this and has actually been successful at doing it. If I recall correctly, this procedure also fixes issues like heat blowing out of some vents but not others.

I am trying to recall if there is some sort of program setup for the buttons that essentially resets the heating panel system. If this is true (and I am not just imagining that I heard this somewhere), I surely would like to hear from someone who knows about this and has actually been successful at doing it. If I recall correctly, this procedure also fixes issues like heat blowing out of some vents but not others.
according to local dealer ser dept, it has to do with the blend door or that something in the switches needs to be re-calibrated, which i doubt, as there's no adj things inside the bezel. i will try adjusting the blend door today and see what happens, as i know there's a control motor that moves the door, according to the setting selected. thanks for your previeous posts, very helpful!!

Great post HeadlessHorseman !!! :thumbsup:

I'll try swapping the resistor block in my 2001 Caravan.
My front blower fan is only operating on the HIGH setting... :rolleyes:

Great post HeadlessHorseman !!! :thumbsup:

I'll try swapping the resistor block in my 2001 Caravan.
My front blower fan is only operating on the HIGH setting... :rolleyes:
After you've done this, please come back and post the results! :iceslolan

Hi there,

Well I had a few extra minutes this morning and I was trying to locate the Resistor Block... :confused:

I checked on the firewall by the strut as mentioned before but I could not see or feel it on my 2001. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated at this point.

Thanks,
Mike

Hi there,

Well I had a few extra minutes this morning and I was trying to locate the Resistor Block... :confused:

I checked on the firewall by the strut as mentioned before but I could not see or feel it on my 2001. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated at this point.

Thanks,
Mike
Did you see a wire harness high up on the firewall? thats the wires connected to the RB. it's a bit tricky to replace, refer to my previous threads.

Hi there,
Well I had a few extra minutes this morning and I was trying to locate the Resistor Block... :confused:
...
Thanks,
Mike
I Googled your 2001 Resistor Block question this morning and came across a few folks out who seem to think that the Resistor Block is located on the Blower Motor itself... I do not know about this for sure.

Interestingly, the Haynes Manual (#30011) I bought several years ago covers 1996-1998, but on the http://www.Haynes.Com web site there is a notation that the current version of this same manual number covers "all models '96 thru '02 Does not include information on All-Wheel Drive and alternative fuel models. Includes Grand Caravan".

Maybe the current version (if there is one) of Haynes Manual #30011 is more helpful for your purposes... if an updated manual really does exist, hopefully Haynes has done a better job this time describing and troubleshooting these types of AC/Heating Blower issues... the manual I have is woefully inadequate.

On the http://www.Chiltonsonline.Com web site, their current manual only seems to cover 1996-1999 - no new millennium Caravan stuff at all. Sorry I cannot be more helpful on the location of the Resistor Block in your '01 GC.

Hey Parky50, how did you make out with locating the Resistor Block on your '01? Has anyone else out there with an '01 had a problem locating the Resistor Block and, if so, where is it actually located?

Hey Parky50, how did you make out with locating the Resistor Block on your '01? Has anyone else out there with an '01 had a problem locating the Resistor Block and, if so, where is it actually located?

I should get some time this afternoon to take another shot at it. I'll report back here with my findings... Wish me luck !!! :)

Mike

I should get some time this afternoon to take another shot at it. I'll report back here with my findings... Wish me luck !!! :)

MikeI wish you luck, Mike! I would also be interested in knowing a couple of other things (if you don't mind :wink: )...

1.) What is the socket NUMBER of the 40amp fuse for the Blower Motor Relay of your '01 (this number is different for 1996 [Socket #3], 1997 [Socket #7] and 1998 [Socket #21]), and

2.) Where is the socket LOCATION of the 40amp fuse for the Blower Motor Relay of your '01 (my '96's socket is located in the Power Distribution Center [PDC] under the hood, driver-side).

Thanks in advance and Good Luck again!

I wish you luck, Mike! I would also be interested in knowing a couple of other things (if you don't mind :wink: )...

1.) What is the socket NUMBER of the 40amp fuse for the Blower Motor Relay of your '01 (this number is different for 1996 [Socket #3], 1997 [Socket #7] and 1998 [Socket #21]), and

2.) Where is the socket LOCATION of the 40amp fuse for the Blower Motor Relay of your '01 (my '96's socket is located in the Power Distribution Center [PDC] under the hood, driver-side).

Thanks in advance and Good Luck again!

Dang if I can find that Resistor Block... :mad:
I tried looking again on the firewall, just can't seem to see anything in there up high or lower with three wires running into it... :confused:
There appears to be some kind of cover that is mounted up high on the firewall and it appears to go over the wiper motors and such. I will take that off next to see if that Resistor Block is hiding behind there.

I tried looking on the blower motor too. There was a little black box that was held on by two screws and had a set of small wires running into the back... I thought I was going to luck out there... :shakehead
It was a little motor assembly with gears in there... I'm guessing that would be the motor for the "Blend Door". I put that back together and installed it back on the blower motor.

As far as the Blower Motor Relay... It is located in the engine compartment in the IPM - Integrated Power Module right next to the battery. I'm not sure of the socket number but I was able to scan a pic of the cover and labeled them to post a pic on the forum. I'm unable to attach anything so I could e-mail you HeadlessHorseman if you would like to see the exact location of the Blower Motor Relay.

Thanks,
Mike

I found the Resistor Block located directly behind the glove box on my 2001 Caravan. Simply open the glove box and push in the two tabs on each side to open the door all the way and there it is !!! :)

Part # 4885583-AB RESISTOR 8035022

Heater Blower works like a charm now !!!

Thanks to all for the information and direction... :cheers:

...As far as the Blower Motor Relay... It is located in the engine compartment in the IPM - Integrated Power Module right next to the battery. I'm not sure of the socket number but I was able to scan a pic of the cover and labeled them to post a pic on the forum. I'm unable to attach anything so I could e-mail you HeadlessHorseman if you would like to see the exact location of the Blower Motor Relay.

Thanks,
MikeA picture would be great, Mike. Thanks... My email address is HeadlessHorseman@SNET.Net. Congratulations and I'll keep my fingers crossed that you nailed the problem!

E-mail sent HeadlessHorseman... :smile:

E-mail sent HeadlessHorseman... :smile:Thanks again... got it... like I said in my email, I did not realize how different a 2001 3.8L looks from a 1996 3.8L under the hood. Amazing. It is comforting to know that Chrysler moved the Blower Motor Relay from the firewall under the driver-side dashboard (behind the Junction Box/BCM) and put it where it is FAR easier to reach... under the hood!

I was just curious if anyone had more info for a 97 caravan. My issue is that the blower will work fine when it is cooler weather, but after it sits in the sun for awhile the blower won't come on at all. The fuse is still good, I couldn't see anything wrong with the relay (located in the power distribution center under the hood) but how can you tell with a 1 x 1 black box, and I couldn't find anything wrong with wiring behind the glove box. I'm open to suggestions, just trying to avoid multiple trips to the parts store. The material in this post has been helpful.Don't know if you're still visiting this thread, but I would start with the Blower Motor RELAY, then the MOTOR. Resistor Blocks usually either work or they don't.

:screwy: What a great thread. You guys are tops.

97 grand caravan blower problem- My better half's blower motor quit completely. I replaced it and it worked great! I was a hero. 30 minutes later she went on an errand and it quit. I'm not a hero any more. I new enough to check the relay located under the hood and the fuse and found they appeared to be fine. i.e., coil was closing the contacts and I had 12 volts on both sides of the contacts which comes from the fuse. I read a couple of threads elsewhere before joining this forum and zoned in on the risistor. While trying to get the connector off and getting very frustrated, my wife came out and turned the switch on and it worked, for three weeks. It has quit again, completely! I replaced the resistor and nothing works. I swaped relays. Nothing. I bought a Chilton's book with wiring diagrams and see that 12 volts should be on the blue wire at the fan motor all the time when the ignition switch is on. The speed switch and the resistor work on the negative ground side of the circuit. I don't have 12 volts at the blower. The wiring diagram shows a straight wire from the relay (where there is power leaving) to the blower connector (where I have no power). Does anyone know where there may be another connector in between which may be compromized?

Thanks,

... :screwy: Check the fuse... It also sounds like you have a Blower Motor RELAY that's barely getting the job done and only part time at that...

It is possible to have 12 volts going to your blower motor and not enough amps to turn it because the relay no longer closes the circuit with good contact. Remember, this circuit is rated for *40 amps* and that's a lot of juice. Normal use causes relay contacts to become burned and pitted over time.

You said you checked the relay under the hood... are you sure that's where your Blower Motor Relay is located? I was under the impression that this relay was located under the dash, driver's side, behind the Junction Box/BCM - that's where my Hayne's manual says it's located for your '97.

I have no idea what relay you were checking.

Check the fuse... It also sounds like you have a Blower Motor RELAY that's barely getting the job done and only part time at that... "

"You said you checked the relay under the hood... are you sure that's where your Blower Motor Relay is located? I was under the impression that this relay was located under the dash, driver's side, behind the Junction Box/BCM - that's where my Hayne's manual says it's located for your '97.

I have no idea what relay you were checking."


Thanks for the responce!

This is splitting hairs... production date = 7/96 - title and owners manual 1997. The PDC is under the hood with the relay at position 5, fuse at position 3.
Power for relay coil comes from junction box under dash, fuse 12 (10 amp).This is switched on by ingnition switch.
40 amp fuse no. 3 (PDC) powers (hot all the time) the contacts in relay which when the coil energizes, supplies the relativly large(40 amp current potential) dark blue wire which leaves the connector no.1 under the PDC, straight to blower connector with constant +12 volts with ignition switch on. {this per the diagram in Chilton's}

<<new info>> The dark blue 12 volt supply wire leaving the PDC travels through the firewall in a harness on the passenger side of the steering column and goes through a large multi-wire connector (possibly for all under dash componants) which is located under the dash above right knee when driving. >>> This connector location info supplied by friend's friend (dealer technician) as I was writing initial post.>>

I just checked the connector under the dash and BEHOLD! Apparently the previous owner had a problem with this wire in this connector and someone (explenatives researved) patched this dark blue wire, possibly a 10 ga, with twisted wire junctions and a 16 ga wire around the outside of the large connector. One of the twisted junctions had melted in two.
I will replace the patch wire with proper size and solder solid and insulated with shrink tubing. (I did jump it out and blower works)
We have had this vehicle for 3 years and have had great service. I probally should consider a fire extinquisher!

too blessed to be stressed and
off to slay other dragons....

... I just checked the connector under the dash and BEHOLD! Apparently the previous owner had a problem with this wire in this connector and someone (explenatives researved) patched this dark blue wire, possibly a 10 ga, with twisted wire junctions and a 16 ga wire around the outside of the large connector. One of the twisted junctions had melted in two. I will replace the patch wire with proper size and solder solid and insulated with shrink tubing. (I did jump it out and blower works)
We have had this vehicle for 3 years and have had great service. I probally should consider a fire extinquisher!

too blessed to be stressed and
off to slay other dragons....Congratulations on tracking down the problem. I'll have to remember the "Charlie Electrician Factor" next time. I never would have guessed that someone had intentionally screwed up the circuit. :banghead: Thanks for getting back and posting the results of your efforts! Let this be a lesson to us all. I learn something new every day. ;)

It's interesting that you say the 40amp fuse is in socket #3 in the PDC... my Haynes manual says it's in socket #7. But then, you also said that the production date of your '97 was 7/96. My '96 was made 2/96. What a difference five months makes. Thanks for sharing all of your great information and research... I'll work it into the original post (and make you famous :) )!

I was just curious if anyone had more info for a 97 caravan. My issue is that the blower will work fine when it is cooler weather, but after it sits in the sun for awhile the blower won't come on at all. The fuse is still good, I couldn't see anything wrong with the relay (located in the power distribution center under the hood) but how can you tell with a 1 x 1 black box, and I couldn't find anything wrong with wiring behind the glove box. I'm open to suggestions, just trying to avoid multiple trips to the parts store. The material in this post has been helpful.
You can slide off the black plastic cover off the relay and see inside contacts to verify wheather or not they are burned. If stripped relay is plugged in the socket, you may push manualy the contacts together. The simplest way to verify the relay is to shuffle these relays and exchange it for some of the others (they are identical) and to see, if it will work in different location.

You can slide off the black plastic cover off the relay and see inside contacts to verify wheather or not they are burned. If stripped relay is plugged in the socket, you may push manualy the contacts together. The simplest way to verify the relay is to shuffle these relays and exchange it for some of the others (they are identical) and to see, if it will work in different location.If this is the first time you have had a problem with your '97, chances are excellent that a relay replacement is necessary. It's a cheap and easy test to buy a new relay and install it, but remember that a good relay can make a marginal motor seem fine in the short term. I have found that relays and motors are best replaced in pairs. A marginal motor can draw more power than usual and cause contacts of a new relay to burn and pit at a far faster rate than normal.

Just trying to help if I can. If the 40 amp fuse is a Maxi-fuse than it is available from these places also.
NAPA-BK 7821079
Kragen, Checker, Shucks, Rockauto-MAX40
Mopar-6101641

http://partimages.genpt.com/partimages/217762.jpg

Thanks for the pic of the fuse and source info, Stevo2... I'll work it into the original post. This is great... it just keeps getting better and better... thanks for contributing!

Ahhhhhhh!

Am I glad I found this forum and this thread. I too have a AC/heater system problem, but I have seen no one mention this one before. Or if they have I completely missed it I am no mechanic, and am not even really much of a weekend mechanic, but some things I can do myself. Example: I switched out the entire speaker system on my Caravan in one afternoon. Also, I replace my own burned out headlamps and marker lamps. That stuff... piece of cake.
But this one frosts my cookies.....
Dear HeadlessHorseman:
I own a 1991 Dodge Caravan (cabernet in color, I love the old beast).
As I drive merrily up the highway, the fan, which runs fine at all speeds blows fine, but the damn air doesn't come out. I accelerate, I hear a flapper inside the dash start vibrating and slam shut shutting off the air flow into the car. I let off on the gas (or top a hill and drop into cruise mode) I hear the flapper open again. Now, I know for a fact it didn't act this way before.
Everything else regarding the AC/heater system seems to work fine, for a car that is at the advanced age of 206K miles. Now, I read through this forum but I have seen no comment regarding my second generation Caravan (model year 1991). I'm fairly certain I can do the dash access myself, but what's causing this flapper to vibrate closed when I speed up and then pop back opened when I let off? This is a damned nuisance when it's hot or cold, and I need air blowing in a regular fashion.
Any thoughts?
Neil in Tujunga

Ahhhhhhh! ...Dear HeadlessHorseman:
I own a 1991 Dodge Caravan (cabernet in color, I love the old beast).
As I drive merrily up the highway, the fan, which runs fine at all speeds blows fine, but the damn air doesn't come out. I accelerate, I hear a flapper inside the dash start vibrating and slam shut shutting off the air flow into the car. I let off on the gas (or top a hill and drop into cruise mode) I hear the flapper open again. Now, I know for a fact it didn't act this way before.
Everything else regarding the AC/heater system seems to work fine, for a car that is at the advanced age of 206K miles. Now, I read through this forum but I have seen no comment regarding my second generation Caravan (model year 1991). I'm fairly certain I can do the dash access myself, but what's causing this flapper to vibrate closed when I speed up and then pop back opened when I let off? This is a damned nuisance when it's hot or cold, and I need air blowing in a regular fashion. Any thoughts? Neil in TujungaI think RIP is right... it sounds like a vacuum issue. My experience with leaking vacuum lines has been that they fail mostly at connection points... usually the leaks happen where lines are connected, like rubber connectors... in some cases, the lines themselves leak, but only after they have been rubbing against something for a while and worn thin, pinched or heated and melted when they touch something hot.

Whatever it is, you need to get a schematic of your entire heating system which includes lines, acuator(s), manual and thermal switches, electrical circuits... everything. You'll also have to take a look at your blend doors and make sure linkages are connected and hinges are OK. You may have to take your dashboard apart to do this right. I don't know what you might find in a Haynes or Chilton's manual, but it might be a good idea to get both of these manuals if you plan to keep your '91 for any length of time.

I would plan to spend an entire weekend running down this problem... maybe a 3-day weekend... and don't plan on using this vehicle during that time because it will be in pieces. Best of luck!

Thank you for the quick responses on this.
Okay, well... I have a terrific mechanic that has been servicing my car and knows it inside and out. It sounds like a job for his skills, but the info is valuable.
I do have the service manual, which has helped me tremendously in doing the more simplistic stuff, but this seems like it may be a few hairs out of my league.
I'll be reading up on that tonight and see if I can learn anything else. If time and finances permit, I'll look into getting a Haynes or Chilton book.
I'll report back if I learn anything new. May be a few weeks, but I'll have this thread bookmarked to add to the information base.
Again, thanks for the insight.
Neil

Hm. Okay. I have my Chrysler service manual in front of me for this evening's reading entertainment. Section (or chapter) 24, the fun stuff begins at page 31. I did notice something curious while playing with the termperature slider and popping the directional air buttons. One time it popped the funky flapper opened with a corresponding "pop" on the car stereo.
Well, at 206K miles, I guess another strange sound isn't all that unusual. I'm going to wade through this material for an evening and see if I can glean anything else.
Neil in Tujunga

Thank you for the quick responses on this.
Okay, well... I have a terrific mechanic that has been servicing my car and knows it inside and out. It sounds like a job for his skills, but the info is valuable.
I do have the service manual, which has helped me tremendously in doing the more simplistic stuff, but this seems like it may be a few hairs out of my league.
I'll be reading up on that tonight and see if I can learn anything else. If time and finances permit, I'll look into getting a Haynes or Chilton book.
I'll report back if I learn anything new. May be a few weeks, but I'll have this thread bookmarked to add to the information base.
Again, thanks for the insight.
Neil


Neil, when you hear this door shut and the air stops coming from the vents, is it going up to the defrosters instead?
Check the vacuum supply line where it attaches to the engine for a possible bad rubber connector, also there is probably a check valve in that line also that allows vacuum to flow to the interior but is supposed to stop it from going back to the engine during deceleration or high engine load. Could be the pushbutton asm is leaking or the vacuum hose harness that connects to it. The best thing for checking these vacuum circuits is a MityVac, you can see vacuum readings, operate the doors and check lines for leaks.
www.mityvac.com

http://www.mityvac.com/images/no_flash.jpg

Thanks, SteveO for the followup.
Well, I read the service manual, but my own personal tool and skill set isn't qualified to do this kind of work. Conclusion, I will defer to my machanic, who will probably sub it out to another shop, I expect. Not sure he does that kind of stuff on site.

"Neil, when you hear this door shut and the air stops coming from the vents, is it going up to the defrosters instead?"

Not sure. There is a obvious audible sound change when that happens, and yes, it does sound like that, but I do not know it in fact. If that's the case, what is the probable situation?

"Check the vacuum supply line where it attaches to the engine for a possible bad rubber connector, also there is probably a check valve in that line also that allows vacuum to flow to the interior but is supposed to stop it from going back to the engine during deceleration or high engine load. Could be the pushbutton asm is leaking or the vacuum hose harness that connects to it."

I can check it, perhaps make minor adjustments with the tools I have at hand. Beyond that, I have to defer to an expert..

"The best thing for checking these vacuum circuits is a MityVac, you can see vacuum readings, operate the doors and check lines for leaks.
www.mityvac.com"

Well, given the current weather situation (our mild southern California climate is thankfully holding true for the time being) this is hardly a major issue on my car. Other mechanical things that need addressing have higher priority currently: ie. I'm buring a quart of oil a month these days; my automatic transmission is a rebuild and at low speeds I have to downshift into 2nd gear due to excessive vibration; almost all of my dashboard illumination is burned out making it very hard to see my instrument cluster at night (fun, fun); add to that a handfull of annoying minor issues, like one license plate light fused -- as I said, old car...
Anyway, thanks all of you for the help and information. At the very least I can sound somewhat literate when I discuss this with my mechanic.
I'll have this problem addressed on one of my rare days off in the near future. I'll report back then.
Thanks, guys!
Neil in Tujunga

IN RESPONSE TO STEVEO2:

"Neil, when you hear this door shut and the air stops coming from the vents, is it going up to the defrosters instead?'"

The answer is YES! I drove to work yesterday afternoon with the fan on just to listen to the noise it made. I also ran my hand over the different outlets, and you hit it on the button. The "flapper" slams closed upon acellerating and the air flow shifts to the defront outlets, even though the button is set on "FLOOR".
Oddly, shifting the button positions didn't change it; the flapper actuated on increasing motor strain, and reopened -- sometimes -- when it dropped back to an even cruise speed.
The night's trip home -- it was fairly cool -- it took a long time before enough heat poured out of the defrost outlets to warm my feet -- which was my intention at the time, again, the button was on "FLOOR".
I'm getting a niggle here that maybe one -- or both -- actuators need replacing?
I say 'maybe' because, when defrosting (rare here but sometimes it's needed) if one of those acutators is for defrosting, I'd say it works fine.
Anyway, just one brief update. I'll keep an eye -- and hand -- on it and let everyone know if I learn anything else.
(Again) Neil in Tujunga

IN RESPONSE TO STEVEO2:

"Neil, when you hear this door shut and the air stops coming from the vents, is it going up to the defrosters instead?'"

The answer is YES! I drove to work yesterday afternoon with the fan on just to listen to the noise it made. I also ran my hand over the different outlets, and you hit it on the button. The "flapper" slams closed upon acellerating and the air flow shifts to the defront outlets, even though the button is set on "FLOOR".
Oddly, shifting the button positions didn't change it; the flapper actuated on increasing motor strain, and reopened -- sometimes -- when it dropped back to an even cruise speed.
The night's trip home -- it was fairly cool -- it took a long time before enough heat poured out of the defrost outlets to warm my feet -- which was my intention at the time, again, the button was on "FLOOR".
I'm getting a niggle here that maybe one -- or both -- actuators need replacing?
I say 'maybe' because, when defrosting (rare here but sometimes it's needed) if one of those acutators is for defrosting, I'd say it works fine.
Anyway, just one brief update. I'll keep an eye -- and hand -- on it and let everyone know if I learn anything else.
(Again) Neil in Tujunga

Neil, you have a vacuum issue. I doubt that it is the actuator itself as they very rarely go bad. The deal with the "Defrost" is a safety feature, if the Heat-A/C has a vacuum leak the door acuator is designed to "default" to defrost so that you can see where the heck you are going.
Your problem could be in a number of areas in the system such as bad parts or hoses,etc. You might feel more comfortable having your mechanic look at it? You could try getting a used dash control asm and replace that and see what happens. I'm sure you will make the decision that suits you best. For a used part you can try here www.car-part.com and search under "Heater/AC Control".

WHoa! Great. Thanks, Stevo2!
Very interesting. This safety feature is nowhere mentioned in the manuals I have. Okay, I have enough to move forward now.
As I mentioned before, I'm not much of a weekend mechanic compared to you guys, but I will make an attempt to trace down issue as best I can in my garage. If I find out anything of interest, I'll drop in here again.

You know, this is fun. A good practical learning experience, if nothing else.
Thanks for being here, guys, and thanks for the feedback. I will follow up.

Neil in Tujunga

Thanks for the great info in this post. I just replaced my blower motor on my 97 with your help.

One thing I would like to note, there is no need to go through the big ordeal of hacksawing and using a puller on the cage. I simply took the clip off, sprayed some liquid wrench in the shaft and had a helper hold a screw driver on my bench and pushed the cage off. The screw driver was used to push in the shaft/motor while I applied force to the cage.

Thanks for posting the results of your efforts Boother. Good to hear it worked out well for you. I just assumed because getting the fan cage off my old motor was a biotch, it would be a biotch for everyone else. Thanks for letting us know that there may be an easier way to get the fan cage off for some folks. Cheers! P.S... I added your note to the original post.