1996 Dodge Grand Caravan LE AC/Heater Blower, Relay and Resistor Block Problems 101

Wellllll... there I was parked at a stop light, light turns green and I accelerate. Then... BANG! I lose all power and my transmission literally sounds like a large coffee can filled with nuts and bolts being rattled around.

It was U-G-L-Y. In addition, I blew a half-shaft. Not one of my better days. :shakehead

That leaves little doubt.. hahaha..

Sorry for the late reply, got tied up with work and life--you know how it gets.

Anyways, I did try your suggestion to blow and grease (sounds like porn LOL) up the relay's connections. It must have worked, because it has been a few days now and the blower seems to be working okay without the symptoms I reported here (click here (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showpost.php?p=5006754&postcount=114))

But I do have now a new symptom to report. It doesn't happen all the time, but it does happen and it has me scratching my head. The blower seems to turn off when I put my vehicle in reverse. It will then turn on once I put the vehicle in the Drive gear. It doesn't happen all the time, but it does happen. I am wondering if you could suggest a troubleshoot on this as well?

Thanks a million for being such a helpful person.

...I do have now a new symptom to report. It doesn't happen all the time, but it does happen and it has me scratching my head. The blower seems to turn off when I put my vehicle in reverse. It will then turn on once I put the vehicle in the Drive gear. It doesn't happen all the time, but it does happen. I am wondering if you could suggest a troubleshoot on this as well?...You got me on that one... I have NO idea. Maybe if RIP (AF Advisor) sees this post he can offer some insight. You might try sending RIP a private message... He's seen ALL kinds of stuff. Sorry I can't be more helpful.

I have a 99 dodge grand caravan sport. Started by replacing the resistor, then the fuses and relay finally the switch mounted in the dash. I have power going to the relay in the power distrabution center. There is no power going to the fan switch on the dash or the fan resistor or the fan. I also have no power going to the fuse under the dash for the blower motor. If I put direct power from the battery to the fan I can get the fan to work. Any sugestions were to go next. Thanks headlesshorseman for your post I thought with all this info I could fix it. Any other ideas?

I have a 99 dodge grand caravan sport. Started by replacing the resistor, then the fuses and relay finally the switch mounted in the dash. I have power going to the relay in the power distrabution center. There is no power going to the fan switch on the dash or the fan resistor or the fan. I also have no power going to the fuse under the dash for the blower motor. If I put direct power from the battery to the fan I can get the fan to work. Any sugestions were to go next. Thanks headlesshorseman for your post I thought with all this info I could fix it. Any other ideas?It sounds like your problem is somewhere between the fuse and the switch. You will have to get a wiring schematic and follow the wiring from the fuse to the switch, testing along the way. If you recently installed a replacement stereo head unit, you may wish to re-check the wiring and plugs in the vicinity of the device. Sometimes just moving stuff around under the dashboard can cause a problem. Good luck!

After nearly THREE years, my Blower Motor is no longer pushing air, so now I get to troubleshoot the problem all over again. Seems like this always happens in the winter, when it is least convenient. Back in January of 2005, I replaced the Resistor Block, Relay and Blower Motor. Truth be told, I run the Blower Motor all the time, in any weather, hot, cold, wet, dry. If it turns out to be the Blower Motor, this will be my third replacement since 1999...

...The 40 amp fuse, relay and resistor block all checked out OK. It was the Blower Motor. One trip to Advance Auto, $53 in hand and about an hour later, I am back up and running. I replaced the relay (a spare I purchased 3 years ago) to absolutely ensure that full amperage is passed to the blower motor. Total cost: $67. Total satisfaction: 100%.

Oops!! My subject line says 1991 but my van is really a 1999 Dodge Caravan. I think this matters a lot because I thought they changed the role that vacuum plays in the climate control system in 1999.

I have used this great thread to replace the blower motor on my 1999 Dodge Caravan. The instructions worked like a champ and saved me $300 in labor a couple of days before Christmas - thank you very much!

Now I have good airflow out the panel vents and the heat works like a champ too. The fan operates at the various speeds as expected so I am pretty sure that I don't have problems with the resistor either.

The problem is that I can't get the air to blow out the lower vents on the floor or get the defroster to work at all.

When I change the setting on the vent selector I can hear a small click sometimes like something is trying to change but I don't know what to troubleshoot next.

The van is not safe to drive up here in the Northwest because we really need the defroster in our wet, cold environment.

...The problem is that I can't get the air to blow out the lower vents on the floor or get the defroster to work at all. When I change the setting on the vent selector I can hear a small click sometimes like something is trying to change but I don't know what to troubleshoot next. The van is not safe to drive up here in the Northwest because we really need the defroster in our wet, cold environment.There may be a fix for this problem available elsewhere on this forum. If RIP or viperegg reads this, perhaps they can redirect you to one or more threads that specifically deal with "blending doors." I know there is a re-programming routine to get these doors to properly operate. I have never needed to do this, so I do not know precisely how this is done. Sorry about that.

Heater fan is up and working. I replaced the fan motor and resistor with another new one. My old fan burnt out the first new resistor. Wierd thing is my old fan still works works if I hook it up to direct power. It must have to much resistance. Now over to the chev forum as my truck heater fan now works when it feels like it.

Heater fan is up and working. I replaced the fan motor and resistor with another new one. My old fan burnt out the first new resistor. Wierd thing is my old fan still works works if I hook it up to direct power. It must have to much resistance. Now over to the chev forum as my truck heater fan now works when it feels like it.What you describe may NOT be weird at all... I think I've been there, seen that... it sounds like the blower motor relay *contacts* may be partially burned or pitted and not passing full amperage to the motor... that's why your old motor runs connected directly to power and does not run installed (getting power through the relay). Do yourself a favor and spend another $15 or so and replace the relay... your new motor will run better AND longer, because your current relay is definitely on its way out. Good luck and Merry Christmas!

Like so many others, my fan only blows on high speed. Got a new resistor block at the dealer for $6. Yes, six dollars only.

For my 1994 GC, the resistor is seen under the hood, at the extreme top left of the firewall, oriented vertically. It is fairly accessible from that side, but looking from the other side, it is nowhere near the glove box.

And that's where I'm stopped. Instead of being held in with spring clips, the old resistor is held in by HEX BOLTS. These bolts are just spinning when I turn them, and won't pull out. And there seems to be no way to get to the other side to remove whatever nut might be holding them, short of a massive disassembly of the dash.

But if there are nuts on the other side of the firewall, how did they put them on? When the car was first assembled, just to make replacement of the resistor impossible?

My only thought is to start smashing at these hex bolts with a hammer and screwdriver and try to knock their heads off. I'm a little worried that might destroy the holes and make it hard to fix the new resistor in place.

Any better ideas?

... My only thought is to start smashing at these hex bolts with a hammer and screwdriver and try to knock their heads off. I'm a little worried that might destroy the holes and make it hard to fix the new resistor in place. Any better ideas?IMHO, smashing>=bad. If it looks like your Resistor Block is located near your glove box, you might take the glove box door and box off to see if you can locate your spinning bolts. Get a helper to spin the bolts from under the hood while you look into the glove box area with a flash light. Just my :2cents:. Good luck!

I found the Resistor Block located directly behind the glove box on my 2001 Caravan. Simply open the glove box and push in the two tabs on each side to open the door all the way and there it is !!! :)

Part # 4885583-AB RESISTOR 8035022

Heater Blower works like a charm now !!!

Thanks to all for the information and direction... :cheers:


My wife's 2001 Caravan had an issue posted in this forum. Heater blower only worked on the Hi setting. After reading this forum, (what a wonderful place), I found the above entry and called the Dodge dealer. They gave me a different part number #68039175-AA, 8035022. He asked me whether our vehicle had Automatic Temp. Control, I said "No".

So your part # may also differ. But the original part# got me to the right place. Thanks for the posts.
I took a few pictures of my installation, which was behind the glove box door. 2 screws and 2 wire harness connectors and it works perfect.

Here are the pics:
http://picasaweb.google.com/mtrewartha/Auto_Cycle_Maint/photo#5152136766268206306
http://picasaweb.google.com/mtrewartha/Auto_Cycle_Maint/photo#5152136757678271698
http://picasaweb.google.com/mtrewartha/Auto_Cycle_Maint/photo#5152136774858140914

Hope these help.

Mark

And that's where I'm stopped. Instead of being held in with spring clips, the old resistor is held in by HEX BOLTS. These bolts are just spinning when I turn them, and won't pull out. And there seems to be no way to get to the other side to remove whatever nut might be holding them, short of a massive disassembly of the dash.

My only thought is to start smashing at these hex bolts with a hammer and screwdriver and try to knock their heads off. I'm a little worried that might destroy the holes and make it hard to fix the new resistor in place.

Any better ideas?If you cannot reach the nuts from inside the van, then...

1. Guess at the size of the bolt
2. Find a drill bit that size
3. Drill through the top of the hex head in line with the bolt.

When you reach the bottom of the head, the head will fall off and the rest of the bolt will drop back behind the firewall. If the bolt is already spinning and you cannot retighten it, you'll have to hold it still to drill it. Use a box wrench for that. If you guess too small the drill will penetrate deeper than the bolt head depth. If that happens, first try using a center punch to break the bolt head off. When that doesn't work, just come back with the next size larger drill.

Then you'll have to figure a way to reattach the resistor to the firewall.

... Here are the pics:
http://picasaweb.google.com/mtrewartha/Auto_Cycle_Maint/photo#5152136766268206306
http://picasaweb.google.com/mtrewartha/Auto_Cycle_Maint/photo#5152136757678271698
http://picasaweb.google.com/mtrewartha/Auto_Cycle_Maint/photo#5152136774858140914

Hope these help.

MarkThanks for coming back and posting the results of your work on your wife's 2001 Caravan... Thanks also for going to the trouble of taking pictures... this thread just keeps getting better and more useful... Happy New Year!

This has been a very helpful thread !! Thank You

:bigthumb:

This has been a very helpful thread !! Thank You

:bigthumb:BigJake1939... Thanks for coming back and signing up to AutomotiveForums for the first time to post your thanks... maybe, we might just be doing something right!... :lol:

Just reread this GREAT thread and want to say thanks to HeadlessHorseman1 for getting it going! This is what the internet should be all about. People helping people.
My contributation from Allpar's site, here are the summerized climate control computer codes (http://www.allpar.com/fix/codes-climate.html). I think someone mentioned they needed them.

Thanks to this forum I replaced the resistor block on my 2001 grand caravan the day after I found that the blower only worked on high. Works fine now and only set me back 20 bucks and 5 minutes labor.

Thanks to this forum I replaced the resistor block on my 2001 grand caravan the day after I found that the blower only worked on high. Works fine now and only set me back 20 bucks and 5 minutes labor.Thanks for coming back and signing up to AutomotiveForums for the first time to post your thanks... This lets us know that we might just be doing something right!... Congratulations on your SUCCESS!... :lol:

Just reread this GREAT thread... This is what the internet should be all about. People helping people.I totally agree... People helping people... I think that this thread is getting better all the time because people keep coming back and posting their discoveries, experiences and, yes, their SUCCESSES! Thanks for checking in webbee... good feedback is always nice to hear. :)

Maybe we should also thank Chrysler who made this thread necessary in the first place. :cya:
Nah... let's pat ourselves on the back and get on with our lives instead. :popcorn:

Just wanted to say thanks for a GREAT forum. My wife's 2001 Grand Caravan with 180,000 miles (that somehow I have inherited for driving to work since she got a new car) had the blower motor only operating on Hi speed problem. I first spent $75 on a used climate control panel before I found this forum on the internet. Of course the control panel didn't help a thing and I found out by reading this forum that is is probably the Resistor Block. I found it under the hood just as described (I haven't taken it out yet tho) and I found the part (RU93) on rockauto.com for $9.43 (and $9.24 for shipping). I'm sure that is the problem, just wish I had found this great page before I spent the first $75. (If anyone needs the climate control panel, let me know). Also, I found you can find the climate control panel on ebay for much less than I gave for it. Thanks again, you guys are GREAT!:)

...Just wanted to say thanks for a GREAT forum... you guys are GREAT!:)Thanks for coming back, signing up to Automotive forums and sharing for the first time... good job, and congratulations!

I'll echo the sentiments -- this has been a great thread! My problem is a little different -- fans / etc work great, but the recirculation door is stuck / broken, so I'm constantly recirculating the interior air. When it's wet / rainy outside, the windows always steam up and I have to run the air conditioner to dry the air out. I may just lodge the recirculation door open -- I never used it before anyway. I assume I go through the glove compartment or instrument panel, but after looking at posted photos, not sure where to go from there. I have a 2000 Grand Caravan with the 3.8l engine. I'd appreciate any pointers! Thanks in advance

I'll echo the sentiments -- this has been a great thread! My problem is a little different -- fans / etc work great, but the recirculation door is stuck / broken, so I'm constantly recirculating the interior air. When it's wet / rainy outside, the windows always steam up and I have to run the air conditioner to dry the air out. I may just lodge the recirculation door open -- I never used it before anyway. I assume I go through the glove compartment or instrument panel, but after looking at posted photos, not sure where to go from there. I have a 2000 Grand Caravan with the 3.8l engine. I'd appreciate any pointers! Thanks in advance

Hmmmm-now that you mention it, the same thing happens to my 2001, I just thought it was because I could only run the fan on Hi speed. I did read something in the earlier threads that it could be due to a vacuum leak--but I admit I know nothing about how the whole thing works. I just like to throw the switches around and stay comfortable while driving. Maybe someone out there knows what the problem is and how to fix it. With 50,000 people belonging to this great forum, I bet someone knows.:)

Anyone know where I can get the schematic for the wiring on a 98 Dodge Ram 1500? The interior overhead console lights never worked when I bought the truck used. I have checked the fuses, bulbs, connections (in the overhead) and they are all good, but I can't find the wires under the dash. Any help would be appreciated.

I discovered this string a week ago, and now I'm happy to report a successfully replaced '99 GC blower motor assembly. I went the "expensive" route, however, and bought the blower replacement unit from the dealer, for $171 with Tenn. state and local tax. I replaced the motor resistor first, which helped some, followed by the blower relay, which made no difference, before concluding that the motor needed replacing.

The cautions about the delicacy of the cage/fan, and the effort required to disassemble and reassemble all the components, prompted me to go the easy way and buy the preassembled unit. I've got so many things going on that the thought of having to do all that work was discouraging to me. I'll just have to content myself with saving the $125-$175 in labor the dealer would have charged for the same job.

John

I finally got the old resistor out of my 1994 GC, the one where the block is found under the hood at the upper right (left as you look at it) corner of the firewall, in a location where you can't get to the other side through the glovebox. And without smashing.

I had thought the bolts holding it were spinning on nuts behind the firewall. But turns out they just aren't threaded all the way to their heads, presumably so they can't be overtightened. You have to pull on the resistor block or pry the heads out as you turn them, so the threads can grab onto the firewall and lead the bolt out. Sometimes it's that simple.

I put in the new resistor and voila, all the fan speeds are back, as expected.

Total cost of repair: $6 for the resistor block at the local dealer.

Thanks to Dchall and HeadlessHorseman for your input!

Just wanted to say that somehow my issue with the blower has fixed itself. All I did was clean out the socket where the relay sits as instructed here in this thread, and ever since then, my blower is working 100%. Thanks for the help!!

Great instructions. Saved me some money.

The blower motor in my 1996 Grand Caravan had been growling for quite a while. Sometimes it wouldn't work at all. When it worked it worked in all speeds, but it always had the growling sound.

I first replaced the relay. That had no effect at all, but it seemed like the thing to try since it was only $10.

Next I replaced the blower motor. I think the instructions here could be improved some. I didn't use a hacksaw, hub puller, C-clamp, vise, hammer, etc... I don't have any of those (Ok, so I have a hammer!) What I do have is a set of stairs in the garage that have vertical railing. The rails are spaced wide enough for the blower motor to fit through, but not wide enough for the fan/cage to fit through.

So first I removed the housing from the blower motor (2 screws, and I had to untwist the wires a bit to remove the housing.) Then I stood on the stairs, held the motor over the outside of the railing and sat down and pulled the motor between 2 of the rails until the fan/cage was touching the 2 rails. Then I pulled harder and off came the fan/cage and onto the floor it went. It's not nearly as fragile as the instructions led me to believe, but considering how much it costs, you definitely want to be careful with it. So if doing it again, I would have someone on the other side of the railing to keep it from falling.

My final cost for replacing the relay and the blower motor: $62

Great instructions. Saved me some money... My final cost for replacing the relay and the blower motor: $62Thanks for coming back and posting the results of your work! Replacing the relay and motor together will guarantee MANY years of trouble-free operation. On top of that, you saved yourself at least $200 you would have otherwise paid to a dealer (parts and labor)... SWEET.

Congratulations!

Thanks for all of the help..I looked for answers to this blower problem..and I found so much help here. It cost me 20 minutes and 12 bucks to fix it..(although Dodge doesnt make it very easy to replace unless youre a contorsionist) ..haha....Thanks to you guys! Thanks for your input.

Thanks for all of the help..I looked for answers to this blower problem..and I found so much help here. It cost me 20 minutes and 12 bucks to fix it..(although Dodge doesnt make it very easy to replace unless youre a contorsionist) ..haha....Thanks to you guys! Thanks for your input.
Thank you for coming back, signing up to AutomotiveForums.Com and posting your Success Story. It's always gratifying to learn that another Chrysler/Dodge/Plymouth owner managed to keep a couple of hundred dollars in their pocket. Good job, good luck and thanks again!

Etaoinsh, I sent you an email about how to begin handling this issue. Please let me know if you got it. Thanks.

Got it and am working through the list right now.

Update: Completed and reply sent to your email address.

Thanks.

P.S. Let me know if you need THIS post deleted as well.

We have a 1998 Dodge Caravan Sport and started having blower motor problems last fall. After replacing the blower motor, we drove it home on our 3 miles of gravel roads. Before long, dust was pouring in from all of the vents. This had never happened before. As soon as the damp weather moved in, our windows started fogging up on us. The tempurature in the van would become warmer and very humid. We had to keep a rag in the van to keep the windows clear enough to see. Sometimes the tempurature would suddenly cool down and the windows would start clearing up. We also had an episode late winter when the snow was thawing. Water was dripping through the vents, seams, etc., of the roof liner. Possible the build up of condensation between the liner and the roof? Now that the roads are dry again, instead of condensation on the windows, we have a van full of dust again. Our dealer doesn't seem to know what the problem could be and doesn't believe their replacing the blower motor had anything to do with all of this. Do you have any suggestions? Might it be the computer? The dust coming into the vehicle reminds us of when we would leave the recirculation switch on. Could it be that the shutter door is not working properly because of the computer problems. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Wow, didn't think my problem was such a head scratcher. Fixed it on my own. New AC/heat control module.

I have an '02 grand caravan and the blower motor started acting up today...it is the fully digital style cluster w/dual climate control and rear air. The rear unit is working fine. The front unit fan will not turn off and has only "AUTO" high/low fan control. The "manual" fan control has no function at this point. Also, when the units power is shut off the fan automaticly goes into HIGH mode (even though the indicator lights are out). My question is...does this sound like a "control panel" problem or the "Resistor Problem" described in your wonderful troubleshooting guide. Should I buy a new "control panel" or a "resistor block"??? Thanks in advance for any help you may offer.

I just wanted to thank you for your information on the location of the Relay for a 1996 Grand Voyager, you were right on about the location and how difficult it was to get too. Ours is working now, thanks to you !!!! Great instructions !!!!:thumbsup:

1994 Dodge Caravan that is blowing air through the air conditioner but doesn't get cold. What could be the problems that are causing this?

I had the same problem. It could be it just needs a freon charge, or you could have my bad luck and you could have a bad compressor which we have not fixed yet. We were given a price around $900 to fix it. Hopefully you just need the freon.

I just wanted to thank you for your information on the location of the Relay for a 1996 Grand Voyager, you were right on about the location and how difficult it was to get too. Ours is working now, thanks to you !!!! Great instructions !!!!:thumbsup:
Thanks for coming back and posting the results of your work. Pat yourself on the back... you saved yourself at least $100 for diagnosing and fixing the problem on your own. Good job!

Hi HeadlessHorseman1,

Thank you for giving perfect instructions to the fix. You couldn't have explained it any better, it was just as stated. :worshippy

Thanks for the thread. It made the installation of the resistor block easy on our 98 grand caravan. However, before I move on to the next step I wanted to get an opinion.

symptoms.
- the fan would only work on high. Based on everyone’s great info it appear that I would need to replace the resistor block. After I got it out I saw that the one of the coils corroded and broke. the pig tail looked fine.
-Before I installed the new block I tested the fan one more time to see if was still only worked on high. It did. I installed the new block and now the blower will not come on at all. I checked the fuse and that was ok.
-One of the final things that I noticed was a little strange, even with the switch in the off position, the lights to a/c button and the circulator button remain on if the car is turned on. (this did happen before I replaced it but it only happened a couple of times.

-I thought it may be the relay issue so I switched it with another relay in the Power Distribution Center (PDC). Still nothing. I am guessing that it would not be the blower motor issue since I see the power issue noted above? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Not too sure about what is happening with yours because ours was completely dead. But I did want to mention, that we had initially put in a new fuse and found we had to replace the other parts. After replacing everything still nothing. Only to find out that at some point while changing the other parts , the fuse was blown again. We could barely see where the metal was melted away in the fuse. Try a fuse, just to be sure, even if you put in a new one. It's inexpensive and could save you a lot of time.
Good luck !! Let us know when you find out the problem please.

Not too sure about what is happening with yours because ours was completely dead. But I did want to mention, that we had initially put in a new fuse and found we had to replace the other parts. After replacing everything still nothing. Only to find out that at some point while changing the other parts , the fuse was blown again. We could barely see where the metal was melted away in the fuse. Try a fuse, just to be sure, even if you put in a new one. It's inexpensive and could save you a lot of time.
Good luck !! Let us know when you find out the problem please.
thanks for the suggetion with the fuse, however no luck

Sorry I was hoping for an easy fix for you !

This is my first post here and I’d like to thank several of the contributors to this forum for posting details that helped me fix my Caravan blower motor/fan assembly. The detailed listing by Headless Horseman from 1/2/05 was especially helpful and I hope that he is still looking in to this thread.

I have a 1998 Dodge Caravan Sport. More than 6 months ago the blower motor/fan began making intermittent various chirping and squealing noises. It would be fine at times; at other times it was not. Coincidently, my 2000 Buick Regal did the same thing within a week! I removed the Buick’s blower motor and on that unit could easily disassemble the motor and grease the motor shaft. No more problems there.

After much trial and error I finally concluded that fixing the existing Caravan blower motor was not possible and I also concluded that removing the fan to replace the motor only was not an option. I tried, but the fan was too resistant to being removed and I couldn’t trust not breaking it and being without a unit until a new one could be ordered.

I started checking prices on line for a motor/fan assembly and found $60 to $70 “base” units and other units for $300 plus. What’s the difference? I also called the parts departments in local dealers and got pricing from $188 to $234 to $460! Without labor!! Then I searched eBay.

When asked, two eBay vendors suggested that I get the OEM number from a local dealer to be sure that what they were selling would fit my Caravan. One dealer (I think the $460 one) would not give me the number (probably afraid that I was shopping on the internet...guess why), another gave me 4874204AB. One of the eBay vendors said his item would fit and he’d guarantee it or I could return it. It cost me just under $60 including shipping.

After the unit was received I found that only one of the three bolt holes lined up and I had to drill two of the plastic mounts to move the bolt holes about 1/8” to 3/16”. It’s been in two days now and is running quiet...and my wife loves me again. Thanks guys.

I have a 1998 Chrysler Town & Country LXI. I am replacing the resistor block and pigtail today because my airconditioner only blows on high. My question: is it neccessary to solder the pigtail wires together or can I just twist them together then shrink tube over? This is what my father suggests because he's "never soldered anything under the hood a day in my life!" I would appreciate a prompt response as I need to get my van back together this evening by the time my husband gets home from work.

Thanks a bunch! This post has been absolutely helpful!

*Oh, by the way, you CANNOT see the resistor from the glovebox in the '98. And having small hands and a big screwdriver made pulling the resistor out take only a few minutes. I put my hand and big screwdriver in the hole above and to the right of the resistor, pressed on the spring retainer on the right side from the back, and then pulled it out turning toward the left. I found it impossible to release the spring retainers from the front.

Hope this helps someone!

I thought my problem was the same. My front blower does not work at all on my 2005 Grand Caravan. I replaced the blower motor and the relay, but it didn't help. I took the resister block out, and it looks brand new. not a bit of corrosion to be seen on either the block or connector. I also checked the fuse several times, and replaced it with another one. The back blower works fine.

I also have a rotten egg smell coming from the front of the car, and I noticed it was really bad under the dash while replacing the blower motor.

Any ideas? I suppose I could replace the resister block anyway, but it seems like it should look at least a little worn.

Try replacing the resistor block again. They seem to be poorly manufactured these days and aren't lasting too long. Was the replacement from the $tealer?

I thought my problem was the same. My front blower does not work at all on my 2005 Grand Caravan. I replaced the blower motor and the relay, but it didn't help. I took the resister block out, and it looks brand new. not a bit of corrosion to be seen on either the block or connector. I also checked the fuse several times, and replaced it with another one. The back blower works fine.

I also have a rotten egg smell coming from the front of the car, and I noticed it was really bad under the dash while replacing the blower motor.

Any ideas? I suppose I could replace the resister block anyway, but it seems like it should look at least a little worn.

Step number one when your blower doesn't work at all after you check the fuse, disconnect the blower motor connector, turn the blower switch on, turn ignition to on, check for 12 volts dc. If it's there, change the blower motor. If it's not, go backwards in the circuit till you find the voltage. This eliminates wasted time and money. A multimeter can be your best friend.

Rotten egg smell could be an overheated battery or a bad cat converter. Only two sources of sulfur in any form that comes to mind.

This is my first post here and I’d like to thank several of the contributors to this forum for posting details that helped me fix my Caravan blower motor/fan assembly. The detailed listing by Headless Horseman from 1/2/05 was especially helpful and I hope that he is still looking in to this thread... It’s been in two days now and is running quiet...and my wife loves me again. Thanks guys.Thanks for coming back and posting the results of your work... good job... it's good to know $100 or more stayed in someone's pocket! :)

1997 DODGE CARVAN, RADIATOR FANS CONTINOUSLY RUN...

Please Help !!!! Anyone!!! My radiator fans continously run after the van is turned off...I have to unhook both fans to stop them...I've checked the fuse near the PDC and it's good...WHat else could it be? Please help?

1997 DODGE CARVAN, RADIATOR FANS CONTINOUSLY RUN...

Please Help !!!! Anyone!!! My radiator fans continously run after the van is turned off...I have to unhook both fans to stop them...I've checked the fuse near the PDC and it's good...WHat else could it be? Please help?

First, this should be a stand alone thread. Next time try to remember to make your own thread instead of burying your issue in another thread. You're more likely to get responses and you won't clutter an unrelated thread. You're here so we'll help.

Your fan issue is a common one. The common fix is replacing the cooling fan relay. Many have trouble finding it. It's on the driver's side of the frame the radiator is bolted to. Remove the air intake resonator and look down. You should see an approx 1 inch square contraption with 4 wires leading to it. The relay cost from $30 to $60. There was a recall on this relay on 96 & 97 vans several years ago. Give your dealer the VIN # of your van, They can tell you if it's been replaced under the recall. If it hasn't been you might get this fixed for free.

Hey y'all,

I have a 96 Caravan that wont heat up when the temperature goes below 35 degrees outside... I'm thinking, after doing some research, that it may be a door not opening/closing... Where do I get a diagram for the vacuum hoses to connect??

Got it fixed. It was the Resistor block. In the 1999 model you can't see it from the glove box. Too many obstructions. Oh, and the replacement cost is no longer $14, the bugger was $30 + tax at the dealer. Thanks for all the tips, the wife is happy, for now.

how did you actually get to the resistor block? is it the same set up on a 98 grand voyager?

Great Article! My symptoms included: Only high speed worked, and it tended to run slow & growl. I purchased a blower motor, Resistor & Relay & a neighbor & I did the repair today on a '97 Caravan. We replaced the blower motor, reusing the fan cage.

The Resistor wasn't too difficult to remove from the firewall, but to get it completely free, I had to loosen the clamp that holds the air conditioning metal tube (bolted into the strut tower). After easing the tube a little, I was able to remove the Resistor competely. The Resistor was in BAD shape and had started melting a corner of the wiring harness. After cleaning it up, we decided to reuse the harness.

Next, we test started the van. All of the speeds worked properly with no growling. We decided to forgo replacing the Relay, since its location makes it quite a task, & my knowledgeable neighbor seemed to think the motor & resistor were the only two faulty parts.

My edit button doesn't seem to want to work, so edit (clarification) to above:

By 'Article' I meant the detailed 1st post by HeadlessHoreseman.

Thanks alot, Headless!!

Our 1996 Town & Country's blower would only work on the highest speed. My wife found this site and emailed it to me.
The solution was the resistor block. The information and photos were right on and saved me much time and hassle. THANK YOU!!

This has been a very interesting thread. I have a 96 plymouth voyager that has simialr symptoms. My battery died the other day. I replaced the battery and the van starts, but now I have another problem. The blower motor doesn't run at all. The turn signals also do not work. The hazards are fine, but the turn signals do not work. The high beam switch works, so I'm fairly sure the switch is fine. None of the rear wiper, a/c, or recirculate buttons work either. The 40A fuse in the PDC is fine. I haven't been able to crawl around too much outside to check the resistor block or relay yet. The question is do you think I need to? I haven't read anyone else having the same problem, no motor, no buttons, no turn signals. I am looking for any help or suggestions.

Thanks,

Vin