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1996 Dodge Grand Caravan LE AC/Heater Blower, Relay and Resistor Block Problems 101


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jakeortman
04-18-2006, 11:56 AM
Just had to say that this guide is about to save me several hundred dollars in my 96 Caravan :-)

Thanks a ton!

HeadlessHorseman
04-23-2006, 06:38 AM
Just had to say that this guide is about to save me several hundred dollars in my 96 Caravan :-)

Thanks a ton!That's what this site and this thread are all about. Please be sure to come back and post the results of your repairs when you're finished... it'll be much appreciated.

Stevo2
07-11-2006, 02:33 AM
Bump to the top

Papo
08-24-2006, 02:06 PM
Just want to thank everyone for all the info on the motor blower and the resistor block. I just replaced the resistor block on my 98 Grand Caravan. It's located as mentioned previously on the firewall on the passenger side. I used a "plier like" oil filter remover to pry the resistor block out. The new one was set in a matter of minutes, without the cuts and scratches. Now the motor is blowing "cat 5" winds.:grinno: I purchased the resister block at my local dealer for $14 + change and tax. Thanks again!

HeadlessHorseman
09-07-2006, 10:41 AM
Nearly 2 years later after replacing the Relay, Resistor Block and Blower Motor and I have had NO problems whatsoever.

mspande
09-28-2006, 10:40 AM
Thank you! The pictures and the discussion helped me to go fix it myself. The dealer wanted $95 for the resistor and harness... and $250 for installation. I found another dealer with the same parts for $38, and it took me an hour to install. HUGE savings. Thanks again.

thowell
11-13-2006, 06:04 PM
ok a bump as well as a question
on the 92 caravan is there a blower relay and if so where is it under the hood or like the 96 in hell on the firewall inside the dash
T

thowell
11-14-2006, 04:43 PM
bump

HeadlessHorseman1
01-29-2007, 01:59 PM
bumpbump

lotrnerd2005
01-30-2007, 06:10 AM
Thank you so much!!

HeadlessHorseman1
02-08-2007, 01:49 PM
Thank you so much!!You're welcome! I am now officially past the 2-year mark (when I started this thread) and I have had absolutely no problems whatsoever with the Blower Motor Relay, Blower Motor or the Resistor Block I replaced in January of 2005. So there ya go, everyone... 2+ years after the repair and still blowing heat (and A/C) like crazy.

zerot
02-26-2007, 01:59 PM
Just wanted to add my 2 cents.

1998 Grand Voyager - My symptoms were:

1. Fan worked intermitantly and would not blow that hard.
2. Sometimes had a low grinding sound.

Started out by replacing the blower motor.

New blower motor without mouse cage (circular fan) from carquest $44

1. Removed glove box - no screws to remove
2. Removed 4 8mm screws from bottom of blower motor housing.
3. Unplugged wiring harness
4. Removed bottom cover of blower motor housing
5. Pulled out the motor / fan assembly
6. Pulled wires through the housing.
7. Another 2 hands is helpfull here
8. Removed clip from top of fan where motor shaft runs through
9. Had my wife hold the fan while I tapped the shaft with a screw driver.
10. Motor fell off of fan.
11. Removed 2 screws from bottom of motor shroud, removed shroud from motor.
12. Installed shroud on new motor, then fan.
13. Put it all back together.
14. It was easy.
15. Fan works like new blows hard. All speeds.

Never checked the resistor but will eventually.

This board rocks!:2cents:

HeadlessHorseman1
02-27-2007, 07:43 AM
...Never checked the resistor but will eventually. This board rocks!:2cents:
Thanks for following up and posting your efforts and success! If your blower motor is blowing hard at all speeds, it sounds like your Resistor Block is fine. Still, like you say, taking a look at it is probably a good idea. Resistor Blocks don't last forever and I replaced mine when my '96 was exactly as old as your '98 is now!

Pat yourself on the back... you saved yourself around $200!

Herrmannx5
03-03-2007, 12:38 PM
This post was extremely helpful. Three weeks ago blower only worked on high for 02' T&C. Replaced resistor block, problem fixed until today. Now it's doing the same thing again and something smells very hot. I would imagine if I replace the resistor block it will work again, but I have to believe something is causing it to go bad. Any ideas what??

HeadlessHorseman1
03-04-2007, 05:21 AM
This post was extremely helpful. Three weeks ago blower only worked on high for 02' T&C. Replaced resistor block, problem fixed until today. Now it's doing the same thing again and something smells very hot. I would imagine if I replace the resistor block it will work again, but I have to believe something is causing it to go bad. Any ideas what??I achieved complete success by replacing the Resistor Block, Blower Motor Relay and the Blower Motor all at once. That may be excessive in your case. Take a look at the Resistor Block you replaced. Is it damaged? Are the wires and connector to the Resistor Block OK? Look for wires that have melted insulation. This is a high-amp circuit and your wires and connector need to be in *perfect* condition... anything less than a perfect connection may cause wires to heat up and short.

hoff316
04-29-2007, 09:23 AM
Very helpful post. My wiring harness to the resistor was corroded and the resistor was shot. This also fried the blower relay. I replaced the resistor, wiring plug harness and swapped the relay temporarily with the high beams relay, I will buy another relay when I get to O'reillys later. Success, the blower works, my wife is off my case now, this post saved me $$$. Great job Headless Horseman, I liked the digital pictures. :grinyes:

kornkid4032
05-20-2007, 07:27 AM
Very helpful post. My wiring harness to the resistor was corroded and the resistor was shot. This also fried the blower relay. I replaced the resistor, wiring plug harness and swapped the relay temporarily with the high beams relay, I will buy another relay when I get to O'reillys later. Success, the blower works, my wife is off my case now, this post saved me $$$. Great job Headless Horseman, I liked the digital pictures. :grinyes:

I was wondering where I could get the wiring harness from... I couldn't find it at rockauto.com.....

Also, that part# RU93 that was mentioned for the resistor, does that part work for the 95 models?

hoff316
05-20-2007, 08:43 AM
I could only find the wiring harness from the Dealership Mopar. Not sure about 1995 models since mine is a 1998.

lesam1
05-26-2007, 10:08 PM
97 T&C - - I have read several post about climate control blower working only on HIGH, but mine will work normally (on any setting) and then just stop blowing altogether. It may take a few mintues or days and it will start working again. You never know when it is going to happen. What should I try replacing first? Is this the same problem as those who's blower works on high only or something different?

Any help is greatly appreciated - especially with the weather getting hot!!!

p.s. I posted this in the general question area also.

HeadlessHorseman1
05-29-2007, 10:14 AM
97 T&C - - I have read several post about climate control blower working only on HIGH, but mine will work normally (on any setting) and then just stop blowing altogether. It may take a few mintues or days and it will start working again. You never know when it is going to happen. What should I try replacing first? Is this the same problem as those who's blower works on high only or something different?

Any help is greatly appreciated - especially with the weather getting hot!!!

p.s. I posted this in the general question area also.

I would start with the Blower Motor RELAY in your case. Sometimes, the contacts inside this relay can become so pitted, burned or encrusted with crud that the circuit will not provide full power to the Blower Motor. When it gets really bad (and it always does, eventually, get really bad with age), I can easily imagine that this relay might not provide any power at all. My experience has been that before a total relay failure, intermittant failures come first, just like the situation you described.

Hoff316 explained that he found an identical relay (for high beam lights) that he used to identify a broken relay. Depending on your model year, you may be able to do the same thing or for less than $20 just go ahead and replace the relay... your '97 is probably due for a replacement anyway.

icerabbit
05-30-2007, 09:40 AM
I am happy I found this thread, since I experience the problem fan a/c and recirc only work on high.

I would like to replace the resistor myself, but am having a bit of a tough time removing it.

I tried to unplug the wire, holding down the little clip & pulling, but it is like glued in there. Even a careful pry around with a flat screwdriver between the male & female part of the connector doesn't seem to help. I was getting very worried as the female part that sits in the car frame / firewall was getting looser.

In the photos, it appears that the big bulky plastic assembly - which obstructs easy access - is removed. Is this required? And how is it done.

To remove the resistor with the wires still plugged in I gather I:
A) Disconnect the battery wires?
Or would removing the 40A and/or some other fuse to the trick?

B) then carefully pry something between the light colored part and the wall to try to push down one part of the clamp and then tilt the connector bit out.

Thanks for your help.

icerabbit
05-30-2007, 09:42 AM
PS: This was linked from the allpar minivan forum :)

HeadlessHorseman1
06-05-2007, 02:48 PM
PS: This was linked from the allpar minivan forum :)
Like the instructions say... remove the negative battery cable from the battery BEFORE you do anything. Yes, getting the Resistor Block out of the firewall is a bear... you just have to keep working at it... the reason it's getting looser is because the metal clips that hold it in the firewall are beginning to bend... this is normal.

You didn't mention what year and model you have, so I cannot suggest much more than this.

Good Luck!

Nik73
07-10-2007, 09:48 PM
I Have a 2001 D GC Sport with problem #1 and my resistor block is behind the glove box in plastic housing for the blower and ducting. I pulled it out and it looked brand new and no corrosion could it still be bad?????:banghead:

HeadlessHorseman1
07-11-2007, 02:19 PM
I Have a 2001 D GC Sport with problem #1 and my resistor block is behind the glove box in plastic housing for the blower and ducting. I pulled it out and it looked brand new and no corrosion could it still be bad?????:banghead:If the connector to the Resistor Block is not melted or burned and your blower is blowing air at high speed only, then yes, I would say your Resistor Block is Bad, no matter what it looks like.

dreams11
07-18-2007, 11:09 PM
I have a problem that doesn't seem to be addresed here. I have a 2000 grand voyager se with 130,000 miles. The blower has suddenly stopped working alltogether. The fuse was bad so I replaced but that just blew again.

I replaced it again and payed better attention to what happens, the fuse was fine untill i turned the blower switch on (just the switch the fan didn't actually work) the ac light didn't go on untill i turned up the fan to max but still didn't start the blower fan but at this point the fuse started to glow red so i switched the fan control to off to not fry the fuse.

what could be causing the fuse to keep blowing and the fan not to work even before the fuse blows?

Thanks

scott

egc519mzl
07-19-2007, 04:02 PM
I also have a problem with fan two days ago. It would only run on high. Reading upon this thread confirms my suspicion that it is the resistor.
dreams11, the reason why fuse would fail is because it has too much currect going through the line than the fuse could handle. Thus, short circuit is eminent. I don't know how difficult but I would start by disconnecting the blower and turning on the fan. Check if current goes thru the fuse (you have to remove the fuse and insert the tester). If you don't see a current, there is probably a short in the blower.

eckelbee
07-21-2007, 07:24 AM
We have a 2001 Grand Sport flex fuel engine with the mentioned blower problems. The front fan operates normal but the aft only worked in high, now it doesnt work altogether.

I took apart the area in the back passenger compartment and noted 12 volts at the blower and thought the fan was inop. I then pulled it out and applied 12 volts from the battery to the fan leads and the fan operates normal.

Does the same resitor block behind the glove box control both front and aft fans? Is there another resistor block that I should be looking for in the aft compartment? Also in my T/S, I noted what I was hoping to be the aft resistor block turned out to be a solid state looking device once removed. When the plug was removed from this device, power was also removed from the blower fan plug and vise versa.

HeadlessHorseman1
07-22-2007, 09:23 AM
I have a problem that doesn't seem to be addresed here. I have a 2000 grand voyager se with 130,000 miles. The blower has suddenly stopped working alltogether. The fuse was bad so I replaced but that just blew again.

I replaced it again and payed better attention to what happens, the fuse was fine untill i turned the blower switch on (just the switch the fan didn't actually work) the ac light didn't go on untill i turned up the fan to max but still didn't start the blower fan but at this point the fuse started to glow red so i switched the fan control to off to not fry the fuse.

what could be causing the fuse to keep blowing and the fan not to work even before the fuse blows?

Thanks

scottIt sounds like there's 1.) a short in the switch (which I doubt), 2.) a bad Blower Motor and/or 3.) a bad Blower Motor Relay.

I'm sure there are people on this forum that might tell you to replace them one at a time, but my thinking is that the motor and relay should be replaced as a pair.

HeadlessHorseman1
07-22-2007, 09:25 AM
We have a 2001 Grand Sport flex fuel engine with the mentioned blower problems. The front fan operates normal but the aft only worked in high, now it doesnt work altogether.

I took apart the area in the back passenger compartment and noted 12 volts at the blower and thought the fan was inop. I then pulled it out and applied 12 volts from the battery to the fan leads and the fan operates normal.

Does the same resitor block behind the glove box control both front and aft fans? Is there another resistor block that I should be looking for in the aft compartment? Also in my T/S, I noted what I was hoping to be the aft resistor block turned out to be a solid state looking device once removed. When the plug was removed from this device, power was also removed from the blower fan plug and vise versa.The Resistor Block described in this thread operates the forward Blower Motor ONLY. I have no idea how the aft circuit is set up because I've never needed to fix it. I do not know if Chrysler uses a Resistor Block for the aft blower... anyone?

eckelbee
07-26-2007, 03:54 PM
I went online and ordered part 5019189-AA, Resistor 8035022 from http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?siteid=213674. The part costed 12.94 plus 7.00 for s/h. When the part arrived I was surprised that it did not look like the resistor block in the front but the solid state looking device I found in the back. I plugged in the new part and it worked at all three speed settings.

Now this was for the 2001 Grand Caravan aft blower. I can get pictures if you would like. Also the Mopar website was really good as far as parts and prices as far as I could tell.

Thanks for pointing me in the correct general direction.

HeadlessHorseman1
07-26-2007, 06:23 PM
I went online and ordered part 5019189-AA, Resistor 8035022 from http://www.trademotion.com. The part costed 12.94 plus 7.00 for s/h. When the part arrived I was surprised that it did not look like the resistor block in the front but the solid state looking device I found in the back. I plugged in the new part and it worked at all three speed settings.

Now this was for the 2001 Grand Caravan aft blower. I can get pictures if you would like. Also the Mopar website was really good as far as parts and prices as far as I could tell.

Thanks for pointing me in the correct general direction.That's great, eck! Glad it helped. Do you know how much money you saved by doing it yourself? Thank you for the part details and web site info. If you wouldn't mind putting up some pictures, that would be really good. This procedure covers only the front blower, but someone, somewhere, sooner or later will read through the procedure and all the posts looking for hints on the rear blower (probably have already). Thanks for taking time, getting back and posting... posts like yours have helped make this one of the HOTTEST thread on AutomotiveForums.com! (MOST posts, MOST views and a five-star rating in the Caravan/Voyager forum!)

91cabernetcaravan
07-26-2007, 07:45 PM
WHoa! Great. Thanks, Stevo2!
Very interesting. This safety feature is nowhere mentioned in the manuals I have. Okay, I have enough to move forward now.
As I mentioned before, I'm not much of a weekend mechanic compared to you guys, but I will make an attempt to trace down issue as best I can in my garage. If I find out anything of interest, I'll drop in here again.

You know, this is fun. A good practical learning experience, if nothing else.
Thanks for being here, guys, and thanks for the feedback. I will follow up.

Neil in Tujunga

Well, hey gang! Months have passed since my last visit and I received a pleasant surprise today.
My cabernet caravan got a little overheated on my way to my mechanic's shop, which was strange since I just had major work done two weeks prior. New radiator and hoses etc.
Also, it's been hot as hell around here lately -- heh, July in L.A., who'd a thunk it?? -- so I did run my A/C, lame as it is with the popping and vibrating flappers.
Can you see this one coming?
SUrprise!! My Heater Valve -- the original equipment on a car with -- are you sitting down? -- 223,442 miles on the odometer -- finally completely failed.
For a few clams, my mechanic replaced it -- and -- DOUBLE SURPRISE!! -- now my A/C works swimmingly!http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/images/smilies/grinyes.gif

So my problem was a leaky valve that was progressively failing over the years. These valves are all plastic. Day after day, heating and cooling, expanding and contracting, over a very long time the plastic became brittle and cracked. So it leaked causing the A/C issue I mentioned months ago here in this very forum.

When my mechanic handed me the culprit you could easily see how far gone the unit was. What is amazing though, is how long it kept trying to do the job before finally giving up the ghost. It was ORIGINAL equipment, sixteen years. I still say it now. I think Chrysler/Dodge makes great stuff!

Thanks -- everyone here -- for all of your helpful information. You turned a minor annoyance into an educational and enlightening experience. THAT is what the internet is all about, IMHO.
Hope my experience here will help someone else with a similar issue.

Neil in Tujunga
July 2007http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/images/smilies/cheers.gif

airpoff
08-04-2007, 01:07 PM
Got it fixed. It was the Resistor block. In the 1999 model you can't see it from the glove box. Too many obstructions. Oh, and the replacement cost is no longer $14, the bugger was $30 + tax at the dealer. Thanks for all the tips, the wife is happy, for now. can you tell me where you bought the resistor block. the Auto Zone doesnt know what it is? please help

HeadlessHorseman1
08-05-2007, 08:38 PM
can you tell me where you bought the resistor block. the Auto Zone doesnt know what it is? please helpI don't think that Autozone stocks a part like that... at least the Autozone in my town doesn't. You have to go to a Chrysler/Dodge/Plymouth dealer or RockAuto.Com. There may me other places I do not know about. Anyway, my original post tells you where you get all the parts you need. For the Resistor Block, my original post goes like this:

Resistor Block:
OEM=by my Dodge dealer was $16USD which includes 6% CT state sales tax);
http://www.RockAuto.Com (http://www.rockauto.com/) - Standard Motor Products Part=RU93 ($15.40 + $5.63 Shipping)
NOTE 1: OEM Part# for the 2001 Caravan is 4885583-AB RESISTOR 8035022 (Thank you Parky50!)
NOTE 2: OEM Part# for the 2005 Caravan is 4885583AC.
(Thank you pwilliams517 at http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showthread...ed=1#post865984 (http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showthread.php?p=865984&posted=1#post865984) )

Good Luck!

airpoff
08-06-2007, 07:30 PM
I don't think that Autozone stocks a part like that... at least the Autozone in my town doesn't. You have to go to a Chrysler/Dodge/Plymouth dealer or RockAuto.Com. There may me other places I do not know about. Anyway, my original post tells you where you get all the parts you need. For the Resistor Block, my original post goes like this:

Resistor Block:
OEM=by my Dodge dealer was $16USD which includes 6% CT state sales tax);
http://www.RockAuto.Com (http://www.rockauto.com/) - Standard Motor Products Part=RU93 ($15.40 + $5.63 Shipping)
NOTE 1: OEM Part# for the 2001 Caravan is 4885583-AB RESISTOR 8035022 (Thank you Parky50!)
NOTE 2: OEM Part# for the 2005 Caravan is 4885583AC.
(Thank you pwilliams517 at http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showthread...ed=1#post865984 (http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showthread.php?p=865984&posted=1#post865984) )

Good Luck!well i found the blower resistor at O"Rielly auto for 12:00$ and it fixed the blower speeds but not the recerculat button(spell check).also I found out the prob with the recirculation button. I need the recirculation air door actuator, located below the blower motor. I can tap on it and it will start working.

HeadlessHorseman1
08-07-2007, 09:18 AM
well i found the blower resistor at O"Rielly auto for 12:00$ and it fixed the blower speeds but not the recerculat button(spell check).also I found out the prob with the recirculation button. I need the recirculation air door actuator, located below the blower motor. I can tap on it and it will start working.There is a reprogramming procedure that may fix that problem, but I do not know what that is for your model year. It has something to do with pressing certain buttons on the dash panel together to start the routine. Sorry, but you will have to find that information some place else. Again, Good Luck!

egc519mzl
08-13-2007, 04:17 AM
I want to thank you guys for creating and keeping this thread. It is a great help. HeadlessHorseman1. Thanks to you.

My blower only ran at hi-speed. I replaced the resistor I bought from Autozone and it is working now. I didn't have to push it out from the glove compartment, though. I used a wide-mouth plier and tried to pull it out from the engine compartment.

HeadlessHorseman1
08-13-2007, 10:01 AM
I want to thank you guys for creating and keeping this thread. It is a great help. HeadlessHorseman1. Thanks to you.

My blower only ran at hi-speed. I replaced the resistor I bought from Autozone and it is working now. I didn't have to push it out from the glove compartment, though. I used a wide-mouth plier and tried to pull it out from the engine compartment.Congratulations egc... you probably saved yourself $100 by doing this repair yourself... money that's better in your pocket than in Chrysler's :)

egc519mzl
08-22-2007, 07:31 PM
I definitely did. Aside from that, I had a peace of mind that only that piece was replaced. Lastly, I had fun and learned more.

Thanks again...

fastclock
09-06-2007, 10:22 AM
Thank you for the wealth of information in the forum and especially in this thread. I have a 1999 Plymouth Grand Voyager SE which has the blower working only on the high speed. Therefore, it's the blower resistor fault. I'm pretty much a newbie in the mechanics dept, so pls be patient.

I've disconnected the neg battery, and proceed to dislodge the blower resistor from the wall using the screwdriver, by pressing on the springs. So, it's loose now. However, the thing didn't want to come out after a couple of inches. It's inhibited by the tight space in-between the top of the strut tower and the bottom of the wiper block. There is also the AC pipe in front of it which block easy access to it.

My question: 1) what is the easiest way to take out the blower resistor then... Is it possible to force it out, or should I remove other part to take it out?

Thank you for your patience. I can also try including a picture if that would help.

Close view:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/12959620@N08/1341006399/

Longer view:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/12959620@N08/1341894004/

Under the hood:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/12959620@N08/1341006621/

fastclock
09-08-2007, 09:04 AM
I'm done replacing the blower motor resistor, and now the blower has all the speed settings :) Got help from my father in law :)

So, after setting the AC pipe aside, it is still a struggle to pull out the resistor through the space in between the strut tower and the wiper block, but it can be done. I took out the wiring + resistor, and then pull out the wiring from the old resistor, put in the wiring on the new resistor ($13.60 from the dealer).

I clip the left bottom part of the board support of the resistor, this helps a lot in inserting the new set back on the firewall.

And finally, the rusted resistor:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/12959620@N08/1346032847/

2001es
09-08-2007, 04:16 PM
I have a problem with my 2001 GC es.. The A/C blower will run when the ignition switch to ON and the Power botton is OFF anf it runs on high speed...If you push the recirculating botton the speed of the fan changes to high and low speed....Ive checked the relay and and the resistor and its ok they are in good shaped...
BTW, i removed the two connectors behind the climate control and the fan still running.. The fan speed is nt working as i have said it is running on one speed....no low,med,high...
Anyway \, anyone could relate the problem i have will highly appreciated...
Thank you..

Gervais8
10-05-2007, 05:50 PM
My fan was only working on high. I replaced the resistor and it worked on all speeds for a week, maybe. Now there's no fan at all. Also, the green a/c button will stay on even if the fan is off. If I have the fan turned off or even if the fan is turned on you can feel cool air coming through the vents but it's not blowing. The recirculate button is off but if you push it on you get no air at all from the front vents. The rear air works fine. I looked up underneath the glove box and felt around. The areas underneath were really cold from the a/c I assume. Can someone help with suggestions?

Dchall_San_Antonio
10-07-2007, 06:56 PM
Ahhhhh! Life's classic issues, and their solutions, are truly a thing of beauty to behold. My highest praise goes to you, Headlesshorseman, for your efforts in bringing a solution to so many of us. And certainly thanks to the other contributors. With all the models and versions, it would be very expensive for one person to learn all there is to know about this topic. You gotta love the Internet.

I just bought my second used Dodge Grand Caravan, a 2000 LE with 118,000 miles. I have been on hiatus from the DGC world since 2005 when my wife suddenly tired of our 96 in favor of a Mazda Tribute (if anyone has questions about that trade, I have some comments). My Honda finally got totaled after two previous attempts to wreck it, so I picked up the 2000 DGC near Ft Worth last weekend. I had forgotten about the fan motor problem until all the way to today (one week and just over 1,000 more miles). Well, I was expecting a car with issues, so...no problem.

I already went through this on the 96. Back then it was my wife's car and it had to be fixed immediately, so I spent the $400 to replace everything all at once. Since they replaced everything, I can't know for sure what was wrong. But now it is my car and I can do it myself (thanks to this classic post). I'll probably change the resistor block next weekend and go from there.

Dchall_San_Antonio
10-18-2007, 11:10 PM
When I wrote that before I had not read the original posts that carefully. Turns out the diagnosis was for either the relay or the motor. It was the motor.

I damaged the plastic squirrel cage at the rim trying to get it off the shaft. There was a crack but nothing separated. I filled the crack with Gorilla Glue and put it back together. So far so good.

One more thing. The wires on the new motor would not go through the inner grommet without hitting the squirrel cage. The wires come off the replacement motor differently from those on the OEM part. So instead of running it through the grommet, I ran them down the side of the motor using a tie wrap to guide/hold the wires down the side of the motor.

HeadlessHorseman1
10-19-2007, 07:01 AM
Ahhhhh! Life's classic issues, and their solutions, are truly a thing of beauty to behold. My highest praise goes to you, Headlesshorseman, for your efforts in bringing a solution to so many of us. And certainly thanks to the other contributors. With all the models and versions, it would be very expensive for one person to learn all there is to know about this topic. You gotta love the Internet.
...
I already went through this on the 96. Back then it was my wife's car and it had to be fixed immediately, so I spent the $400 to replace everything all at once. Since they replaced everything, I can't know for sure what was wrong. But now it is my car and I can do it myself (thanks to this classic post). I'll probably change the resistor block next weekend and go from there.

I have long felt that the best thing to do when encountering ANY problem with the (1) relay, (2) resistor and/or (3) blower motor was to replace everything all at once. I am on my 2nd relay, second resistor and my 3rd blower motor since I bought my GC/LE in '96. In the beginning, I would replace these items 1 or maybe 2 at a time only to have the other(s) crap out soon after (within a year, usually).

When I started this thread almost 3 years ago, I decided to replace all 3 components at once (relay, resistor and blower motor)... and I have not had a problem since then. Replacing all 3 at once may seem excessive, but in the long run, I spend less time fixing things and worrying about which of these doodads will crap out next.

P.S. I just turned over 251,000 on the odometer of my 1996 GC/LE with the 3.8 liter motor... the best motor I have EVER owned, at that includes several new Toyotas, a Datsun and a Nissan. On my GC/LE, I have replaced 1 water pump, 1 alternator and 1 idler pulley... that's it. (The transmission however, well, let's not go there... I am on my 3rd.)

HeadlessHorseman1
10-19-2007, 07:08 AM
My fan was only working on high. I replaced the resistor and it worked on all speeds for a week, maybe. Now there's no fan at all. Also, the green a/c button will stay on even if the fan is off. If I have the fan turned off or even if the fan is turned on you can feel cool air coming through the vents but it's not blowing. The recirculate button is off but if you push it on you get no air at all from the front vents. The rear air works fine. I looked up underneath the glove box and felt around. The areas underneath were really cold from the a/c I assume. Can someone help with suggestions?

Please see my above post (opinion) about replacing all 3 items at the same time, all at once... relay, resistor and motor.

HeadlessHorseman1
10-19-2007, 07:10 AM
I have a problem with my 2001 GC es.. The A/C blower will run when the ignition switch to ON and the Power botton is OFF anf it runs on high speed...If you push the recirculating botton the speed of the fan changes to high and low speed....Ive checked the relay and and the resistor and its ok they are in good shaped...
BTW, i removed the two connectors behind the climate control and the fan still running.. The fan speed is nt working as i have said it is running on one speed....no low,med,high...
Anyway \, anyone could relate the problem i have will highly appreciated...
Thank you..

Please see my above post (opinion) about replacing all 3 items at the same time, all at once.

HeadlessHorseman1
10-19-2007, 07:15 AM
I'm done replacing the blower motor resistor, and now the blower has all the speed settings :) Got help from my father in law :)

So, after setting the AC pipe aside, it is still a struggle to pull out the resistor through the space in between the strut tower and the wiper block, but it can be done. I took out the wiring + resistor, and then pull out the wiring from the old resistor, put in the wiring on the new resistor ($13.60 from the dealer).

I clip the left bottom part of the board support of the resistor, this helps a lot in inserting the new set back on the firewall.

And finally, the rusted resistor:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/12959620@N08/1346032847/

Yep, your pic is pretty much what I found when I finally got my resistor block out of the firewall. I did not have all of the problems you encountered but I was not surprised to read about them. Resistor blocks in mid-to-late 90's Caravans have always been a bee-otch to remove and replace. So, we can add your knuckle-skinning story to the long list of other blood-letting sagas the engineers at Chrysler has cooked up for us.

Congratulations on your success!

fastclock
10-22-2007, 08:50 AM
Yep, your pic is pretty much what I found when I finally got my resistor block out of the firewall. I did not have all of the problems you encountered but I was not surprised to read about them. Resistor blocks in mid-to-late 90's Caravans have always been a bee-otch to remove and replace. So, we can add your knuckle-skinning story to the long list of other blood-letting sagas the engineers at Chrysler has cooked up for us.

Congratulations on your success!

The fan died a month ago after making some growling sounds and stopping after two-hours drive. So, I replaced the relay, and the fan still wouldn't work. After ordering a used blower motor from car-part.com (not sure how long will keep the van, $10 part + $13 shipping), I replace the whole fan+cage without a problem. I'm not sure I can replace just the motor, so took this path.

Thanks for the info again. Now the fan is blowing just fine.

HeadlessHorseman1
10-22-2007, 03:38 PM
The fan died a month ago after making some growling sounds and stopping after two-hours drive. So, I replaced the relay, and the fan still wouldn't work. After ordering a used blower motor from car-part.com (not sure how long will keep the van, $10 part + $13 shipping), I replace the whole fan+cage without a problem. I'm not sure I can replace just the motor, so took this path.

Thanks for the info again. Now the fan is blowing just fine.You're welcome and, actually, you *can* replace just the motor, but you have to remove the squirrel cage from the old one and press it onto the motor shaft of the new motor (the procedure is in my original page 1 post). At any rate, I'm glad it all worked out for you... congrats!

Krazy Jeff
11-03-2007, 08:20 PM
First of all a big thanks to HeadlessHorseman for providing us a great tutorial.

My situation fits Question #3 - Does your AC/Heater Blower Motor seem to "growl," run slow or stop altogether AFTER running for awhile, though sometimes it seems by turning it off and waiting awhile the problem resolves itself, but only temporarily?

Here are my symptoms. I turn on car, turn on ac/heater, it's blowing out of the vents, then I turn off car, turn on car, and then the ac/heater sometimes just doesn't turn on. Or when driving, it turns off, and it won't turn on again, until probably I turn off the car and let it sit there for a few hours or so.

Here is what I have done so far to troubleshoot it.

I replaced the Blower Motor Relay. (but the symptoms still persist).
I then disconnected the connector where the blower motor gets its power from (removed glove compartment) I then connected a voltage meter on the connector where the blower gets it's power from. I notice that it's getting 12 volts of power. I then reconnect the blower. Go through the procedures of getting the blower to fail (as explained above in the symptoms). Once the blower fails, I disconnect the power adapter and test it again with the voltmeter and now it's getting no voltage. So the conclusion is that the motor doesn't run, because it's not getting anymore voltage. (so it can't be a bad motor blower) Could I be right?
I then go to the Fuse & Relay Center and barely tap the blower relay and it turns on. I then proceed in turning on and off the car and then see when the motor blower fails. Once it does, I just tap the top part of the fuse & relay center and voila, it turns on.This is where I am currently stuck at. Why is it that I barely tap on the cover of the Fuse & Relay Center (underneath the hood) and it seems to reset the relay box? Please help?

Also, can someone explain what is the main purpose of the blower relay? Could there be a way for me to bypass the blower relay so the blower motor is constantly getting 12 volts and it only turns on by turning on the switch on the AC/Heater Controller?

I haven't tried testing the resistor, because all levels of the fan works Low/Mid/High. So this is why I haven't bothered to see if this could be the problem.

HeadlessHorseman1
11-03-2007, 09:46 PM
First of all a big thanks to HeadlessHorseman for providing us a great tutorial.

My situation fits Question #3 - Does your AC/Heater Blower Motor seem to "growl," run slow or stop altogether AFTER running for awhile, though sometimes it seems by turning it off and waiting awhile the problem resolves itself, but only temporarily?

Here are my symptoms. I turn on car, turn on ac/heater, it's blowing out of the vents, then I turn off car, turn on car, and then the ac/heater sometimes just doesn't turn on. Or when driving, it turns off, and it won't turn on again, until probably I turn off the car and let it sit there for a few hours or so.

Here is what I have done so far to troubleshoot it.

I replaced the Blower Motor Relay. (but the symptoms still persist).
I then disconnected the connector where the blower motor gets its power from (removed glove compartment) I then connected a voltage meter on the connector where the blower gets it's power from. I notice that it's getting 12 volts of power. I then reconnect the blower. Go through the procedures of getting the blower to fail (as explained above in the symptoms). Once the blower fails, I disconnect the power adapter and test it again with the voltmeter and now it's getting no voltage. So the conclusion is that the motor doesn't run, because it's not getting anymore voltage. (so it can't be a bad motor blower) Could I be right?
I then go to the Fuse & Relay Center and barely tap the blower relay and it turns on. I then proceed in turning on and off the car and then see when the motor blower fails. Once it does, I just tap the top part of the fuse & relay center and voila, it turns on.This is where I am currently stuck at. Why is it that I barely tap on the cover of the Fuse & Relay Center (underneath the hood) and it seems to reset the relay box? Please help?

Also, can someone explain what is the main purpose of the blower relay? Could there be a way for me to bypass the blower relay so the blower motor is constantly getting 12 volts and it only turns on by turning on the switch on the AC/Heater Controller?

I haven't tried testing the resistor, because all levels of the fan works Low/Mid/High. So this is why I haven't bothered to see if this could be the problem.Obviously, your 40amp fuse is good and since you replaced the Relay, we should assume it is also good. When the Blower Motor blows, it works at all speeds, so it seems safe to assume that the Resistor Block is OK too. You did not mention whether or not your Blower Motor is "growling"... if it is "growling" (running very slow), the Blower Motor would probably need to be replaced. "Tapping" the Fuse & Relay Center cover seems to cause the blower to work, so I would suspect that 1 or more of the 4 or 5 Relay prongs have a bad socket connection or possibly there is a wiring issue. It is possible that you purchased a defective Relay, but I doubt it. This is where I would start...

1. disconnect the negative battery cable,

2. remove the relay,

3. get some canned air (the kind you use to blow out computer keyboards) and blow out the sockets used to plug in the relay,

4. get some dielectric grease and carefully coat each metal prong of the relay using a Q-tip,

5. reinsert the relay,

6. reconnect the negative battery cable,

7. test,

8. come back here and let us know how you made out.

BTW, the purpose of the Relay is to handle the high-amp load of the Blower Motor circuit... relays do a better job of this than a simple switch (which would probably burn out in a short period of time without a Relay between the switch and the motor).

Good luck!

P.S. Thank you for your kind words about the effectiveness of this thread... this has been and continues to be a collaborative effort that has grown over the past three years with several key people contributing comments and pictures and others who come back after they've fixed the problem(s) to provide helpful and insightful notes in this thread. Thanks to everyone who has participated, this is the most viewed, most posted thread in this forum. There is a solution to your Caravan's problem and when we find it, if you return to post your comments, you too will become a contributor to this thread. :) Once again... thanks to All!

Krazy Jeff
11-04-2007, 01:50 AM
Thanks for the quick reply. I will definitely try the canned air and dielectric grease. (Question? When you buy new spark plugs, do they normally give you a dielectric grease in a small clear bag? If yes, I got a whole bunch.. lol)

Define "growl"? When I put it on low, it blows the air low, at half way it blows the air moderately, and when its on high it really pushed the air. I wish there was a better way to gauge this to make sure it is blowing at its optimum speed or power.

Wish me luck, I'll be testing this tomorrow or by Monday.

HeadlessHorseman1
11-04-2007, 05:10 AM
Thanks for the quick reply. I will definitely try the canned air and dielectric grease. (Question? When you buy new spark plugs, do they normally give you a dielectric grease in a small clear bag? If yes, I got a whole bunch.. lol)

Define "growl"? When I put it on low, it blows the air low, at half way it blows the air moderately, and when its on high it really pushed the air. I wish there was a better way to gauge this to make sure it is blowing at its optimum speed or power.

Wish me luck, I'll be testing this tomorrow or by Monday.I have never received small clear bags of dielectric grease with plugs I've bought in the past. I wouldn't think dielectric grease would hold up well in the high heat. I have used copper-based anti-sieze "grease" on the threads of spark plugs to improve conductivity and make their eventual replacement easier.

I would not use the stuff that came with your plugs on the metal prongs of the Blower Motor Relay unless it specifically states on the bag that it IS dielectric grease... it might make things worse.

It sounds like your Blower Motor is OK... "growling" is what happens when the Blower Motor spins very slowly, slower and slower and may eventually stop spinning altogether... like the bearing is bad and siezes up. It also sounds like your Relay and Resistor Block is OK.

Please do come back and let everyone here know about your progress... Good Luck!

paitchison
11-11-2007, 07:23 PM
I'm not really a DIY'er, as I have a valid Automotive Mechanic's Licence, although I haven't been in the trade for a little while.
I have spent approximately 9 hours trouble shooting my heater problem. I had it traced to the heater relay, but spent 8 of the 9 hours trying to locate that little black $%#*2+. That's even with a factory shop manual !!! I have the scrapes and cuts to prove it. I was all set to start installing a new wiring and relay, when I decided to Google "1996 Caravan heater" and found your site. To say the least I was relieved. I followed your instruction exactly and now have a perfectly fine heater system again. I have documented the procedure with 15 annotated digital pictures and would send them to you, if I could figure out how. Email me at paul_aitchison@hotmail.com, if you would like them.Thank you for taking the time to record your experience for the rest of us dumb slobs.
Paul Aitchison

HeadlessHorseman1
11-11-2007, 10:50 PM
I'm not really a DIY'er, as I have a valid Automotive Mechanic's Licence, although I haven't been in the trade for a little while.
I have spent approximately 9 hours trouble shooting my heater problem. I had it traced to the heater relay, but spent 8 of the 9 hours trying to locate that little black $%#*2+. That's even with a factory shop manual !!! I have the scrapes and cuts to prove it. I was all set to start installing a new wiring and relay, when I decided to Google "1996 Caravan heater" and found your site. To say the least I was relieved. I followed your instruction exactly and now have a perfectly fine heater system again. I have documented the procedure with 15 annotated digital pictures and would send them to you, if I could figure out how. Email me at paul_aitchison@hotmail.com, if you would like them.Thank you for taking the time to record your experience for the rest of us dumb slobs.
Paul AitchisonI would like to begin by saying you are not a dumb slob, Paul... hey man, I fixed my heater system for the first time three years ago and felt like I was out there on my own. That was the reason why I started this thread way back then... so guys wouldn't have to go through the same "pain and suffering."

Yes, I would like to get the pictures you took!... and thank YOU Paul for coming back to this web site to share your experiences... this thread just keeps getting better and better because guys like you help make it that way!

Congratulations on your success... it makes me personally very happy to know that there is more money in YOUR pocket and not in Chrysler's bank account... I wish you MANY years of problem free service.

:)

mux
11-12-2007, 07:36 PM
(The transmission however, well, let's not go there... I am on my 3rd.)

Are you sure the transmission was actually bad? I had some issues with the Dodge Caravan that I own but it turned out to be the shift selenoid and the wiring to the sensor on the transmission.

My van would not shift gears it was stuck in 2nd gear and after a lot of research and troubleshooting I was able to replace the shift selenoid and all was fine. The selenoid was not cheap but it was a whole lot cheaper and easier to fix than a transmission replacement.

Dodge Caravans have what they call limp home and the tranny will not change from 2nd gear.

Thanks for all the info on the heater resistors I will be replacing that soon.

HeadlessHorseman1
11-12-2007, 10:23 PM
Are you sure the transmission was actually bad? I had some issues with the Dodge Caravan that I own but it turned out to be the shift selenoid and the wiring to the sensor on the transmission.

My van would not shift gears it was stuck in 2nd gear and after a lot of research and troubleshooting I was able to replace the shift selenoid and all was fine. The selenoid was not cheap but it was a whole lot cheaper and easier to fix than a transmission replacement.

Dodge Caravans have what they call limp home and the tranny will not change from 2nd gear.

Thanks for all the info on the heater resistors I will be replacing that soon.Wellllll... there I was parked at a stop light, light turns green and I accelerate. Then... BANG! I lose all power and my transmission literally sounds like a large coffee can filled with nuts and bolts being rattled around.

It was U-G-L-Y. In addition, I blew a half-shaft. Not one of my better days. :shakehead

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