O.K. There are a lot of people that want information on how to replace the intake gaskets on their trucks.
SO... in an effort to make it easier to get the answers you need, I have started this thread just for this repair.
Now here are the rules!
1. This thread pertains to 96 and up 5.7 R engine intakes only

2. This thread is for specific repair questions and answers.....do not post about how much it cost to have a shop do it or bash dealers...this is JUST for information regarding you attempting this repair on your own.

No opinions on what causes the problem, no demands for a recall or for the repair to be covered under warranty

3. Feel free to share your tips and tricks on making this job easier

4. Before you post a question, read over the thread to see if you can find the answer

No has asked any questions/statements yet? or am I no getting the full thread???

How about this one.

1. How can you tell if the intake gasket has been replaced or not.
a. Is the gasket different than the OEM?
b. Do GM use silicon around the intake to insure to leaks.

Thanks.

No has asked any questions/statements yet? or am I no getting the full thread???

How about this one.

1. How can you tell if the intake gasket has been replaced or not.
a. Is the gasket different than the OEM?
b. Do GM use silicon around the intake to insure to leaks.

Thanks.

1. LOOK..take a look at the intake..are there witness marks on the bolts?
Are there areas around where the manifold bolts to the head that are cleaner then the rest of the engine?

a. the gasket has gone thru a few revisions over the years..I believe the new factory gasket is black with metal "plugs" next to the bolt holes

b.I don't quite understand this one, but..GM recommends that a bead of sealer go across the engine block between the heads. I just put a small drop on the head itself to seal the corner where the gasket meets the block.....GM gray silicone or Permatex gray silicone sealers work the best IMHO

Most importantly, the bolt threads need to be cleaned and a small amount of blue loctite is to be applied to the threads when the bolt is installed...torque the bolts to 11ft/lbs

Hey merlin, congrats on becomeing a moderator.
I will not actually be changing my gaskets 'til this summer, but I have a couple questions right now...
1) they have a upper and lower section. Is there any reason to dissassemble them, or can I take them off as one unit?
2) should I use new GM gaskets, or are aftermarket ones better?

It is a 2 piece design but you do not have to seperate them.

If you do not use the factory gasket, a quality gasket like Fel-pro will do.

I went a little further than intake gasket replacement, but here goes. I replaced the head gaskets on a '97 Tahoe 5.7. Upon reassembly, I have trouble adjusting the valve lash. I turned engine to TDC of compression stroke for #1 and removed lash so pushrod couldn't be turned. When trying to tighten 1 additional turn, valves begin to open immediately. When I have them where they should be (theoretically), cylinder builds no compression or vacuum. I couldn't find any books referring to another adjustment method. I have successfully used this technique many times on SB Chevy motors before. Am I missing something here?

When I do heads on these trucks, I only turn the adjusting nut 3/4 of a turn.
What may have happened is the lifters have pumped up. this will cause the valves to stay open..usually spinning the engine over for a while gets them to bleed down, then the engine will build compression

Thanks Merlin! I was thinking along the same lines, but the engine had not been run in 2 weeks so I wasn't sure. I let them sit for a while after adjusting them and all's well now.

Can anyone recommend a good repair manual to have on hand when attempting this?

Are their any special tools I might need to do this job, fuel lines..
How about reccomendations on distributer or rigid lines, tricks are always helpful, thanks BB

wellllll I finally got started with the intake gasket replacement this weekend. lol ..turns out to remove the power steering pump pulley, you gotta buy a power steering pump pulley puller! Fortunately the local auto parts store carried an inexpensive one. Other than that, it was simply time consuming......just have to take it one step at a time. Hopefully it will be back together next weekend,..... and running! The Haynes manual was indispensible to me, not being much of a mechanic myself. I have one for each car I have or have had in the past. I would recommend tho having a second person handy when it comes time to actually remove the intake.....I found myself sitting in the engine compartment with the intake on my lap, .....thinking.......now what......lol. But finally it is out and time now for the new gaskets. Thanks to all who have contributed to these threads, it has been a big help.

I have the truck all back together, but I have a vacuum leak now from the oval-shaped area where the fuel lines and wiring harness for the CSFI pass through the upper intake manifold. Any idea what I might have done wrong? I had a hard time telling where it was coming from, but I listened through a hose and pin-pointed it. I don't recall if there was some type of seal or something there. I don't want to remove the upper intake again unless I have to. Please help! :banghead:

Edit: Disregard...I fixed it. The O-ring that is supposed to seal it had slipped down. I replaced it and everything's fine now.

I'm replacing the intake manifold gasket on my 97 tahoe. I'm used to working on my wifes honda and have no idea where to start on this project. I need a little help! Also are there any special tools I will need to get to do this JOB?

I'm used to working on my '66 New Yorker, so this was a definite switch! I don't believe I used any special tools, but a telescoping magnet is almost a must for dropped bolts, sockets, etc. Room to get your fingers in is at a premium in some areas. The stud that mounts to the back of the right head (it holds the wiring support near the coil) was a pain to get back in. Find a book on your truck. If you don't want to buy one, most local libraries have them. My library has a subscription to "Auto Repair Reference Center", basically an online service manual which could also be used (I used this method). You just input your vehicle year, type, etc. and it comes up with a list of service procedures. You'll need both metric and standard sockets. A T-20 Torx bit is required to remove the distributor cap. Be careful not to break off the heater hose disconnect at the right front of the intake like I did. Good luck! If you run into trouble, post your question here and I'll help if I can.

same here........if I can help, be more than happy to. You will need to remove the AC bracket (at least I had to), and that means taking off the steering pump pulley. The puller cost me $26.00, and contained the tool to reinstall the pulley also.

I have got the upper intake manifold off and am trying to get off the lower one. I am having trouble taking off the compressor bracket. I believe someone said that you need to take off the power steering pulley. My manual says that the bracket should slide out and NOT be taken off. Has anyone else had this problem? I dont want to buy that tool and take off the pulley if I dont have too. Thank you to anyone that can help me out.

I had a problem when I replaced my intake gasket with the distributer was not lined up and would get a service light. what can be done to ensure that it is put in right the next time I have to do anything.

Does anyone know of replacement intake gaskets for the "vortec V-8s" that are NOT the plastic and rubber ones they came with??? I cant see putting the same garbage back in, only to blow out again in another 70K!!! Someone should have made an inprovement on this design by now. I am a machinist and I'm half tempted to just make my own out of aluminum!!! Let's see that break!! Haha. But seriously, is there???

I want to thank everyone for all their input on this issue especially GMMerlin. I installed the new FEL-PRO PermaDryPlus gasket set without any problems (keeping my fingers crossed).

My intake gasket blew but after there was a water pump leak and thermostat gasket went. The old gasket didn't fit the truck well at all; so I had a new one installed. Here's the problem. After the intake was installed it was still leaking very slowly. The dealership put a pressure test on it which showed nothing. Now the coolant is starting to draw down, but I'm not seeing the leaks. Is the truck burning coolant abnormally. The engine suffered NO damage when the water pump went nor was there any signs of overheating at all. It was caught somewhat early.

Hey Guys, I'm getting ready to change my intake gasket this weekend and I have a couple of questions. First it seems like the power steering pump pully needs to be removed but has anyone managed to do this without doing that. Does anyone
have any sugestions or input on any other maintenance or other repairs that could or should be done while I have it apart. My Tahoe is a 1998 with 100k miles.

Thanks Rick.

OK. I just finished doing intake gaskets on my '97 GMC Serria 1500 4X4 with the 5.7L Vortec engine (vin R). It took me a couple of weekends (20 hrs or so), not counting the problem mentioned later. I also spent about $200 on supplies. I recommend flushing your coolant and replacing your cap and rotor while doing this job. Here is what I did, and what I've learned.

1- Disconnect Neg. Batt. Terminal and (flush) drain coolant
2- Remove air inlet tube and vortec cover
3- Remove the ac comp. and swing it over to the other side, keep hoses in tact.
4- Disconnect and LABEL all electrical plug-ins connected to the manifold, also undo the plug to the Alt., Crank Pos. censor, and P. Steering (goes down the front and underneath.)
5- Pull wire-loom up and out of the way and tie it back with a bungee cord or similar.
6- There is a bracket on the pass. Side rear that needs to come off too. I cut mine in half and only removed the top portion. (the back bolt is hard to get to).
7- Disconnect upper rad. Hose, heater hoses, throttle cables, pvc devices, ign. coil, egr hose, and anything else connected to the manifold, that wont come off with it. You DO NOT need to remove the upper half of the manifold from the lower!!!
8- Remove the A/C bracket and P/S pump as a UNIT and set aside. There are 4 bolts in the front, and 2 underneath. You DO NOT need to pull the p/s pulley off!!! You do not need to remove the alternator either.
9- Disconnect the spark plug wires from the dist. and remove the dist. cap. It is VERY important that you mark the location of the rotor in relation to the dist. AND the location of the dist. in relation to the intake. If you don’t, you will be putting it on a scanner to set the timing.
10- Carefully remove the distributor. Notice how the rotor turns when you pull it out and remember it’s location so you can get it back in correctly.
11- Relive pressure from the fuel line. Disconnect the fuel lines at the back of the manifold near the trans.
12- Loosen bolts on valve covers, and break seal, do not need to remove them.
13- Unbolt and remove manifold.

Once the manifold is off, clean out the lifter valley and cover it with clean rags to keep gunk out. Remove old gaskets and clean mating surfaces well.

NOW is the BEST time to replace the “quick disconnect nipple” for the heater hose on the manifold, because it will break off, and you will be drilling it out. Unfortunately this is how it is. Carefully drill out what’s left of the nipple and clean out the threads with a tap or whatever you have. DO NOT use an “easy-out” and brute force!!! I cracked the boss doing this (followed by several foul words! :cya: ) and had to get it welded. Get the STEEL replacement from the dealer, and use some Teflon tape when installing.

When you put the gaskets on, use RTV on the valley ends (there is no gasket) and also put some around the coolant ports. Carefully replace the manifold (so you don’t smear RTV all over) and bolt down to specs. (Three stages, 11ft.lbs. is final value) Use some thread sealer or equivalent. Do not over-torque!
Hook everything back up. Replace your cap and rotor, refill coolant, and change the oil.

Remember, yours may be different, and I may have forgotten something (it’s been a week now). But this will guide you in the right direction. GOOD LUCK!

Great information 70camaro, thanks very much I will let you know how it went when it's done I think it should go fairly smooth.

Thanks again Rick

70Camaro- thanks for your notes. They were great. I did my 99 Tahoe over the weekend. Project could not have gone any smoother. Don't really have any more tips to add, as 70Camaro's notes were great. I did not have any trouble with my heater hose quick connect nipple, and did not remove power steering pump, just unbolted the AC/PS bracket and moved out of the way. As far as the bracket on the passenger side rear, all I did was remove the 2 nuts on top of the Plenum (upper plastic manifold portion) and bent the bracket towards the firewall. Did not remove or cut anything. During the reinstall, just bent back and replaced nuts. Bought a Haynes manual, but never used it. Will post some pics later.
Had 2 friends help. We tore apart everything Friday night, cleaned mating surfaces, installed new water pump and drank a bunch of beers in about 4 1/2 hours. Saturday had everything put back together and had truck running in about 4-5 hours, and drank a bunch of beers. Before I changed the oil, I ran an oil system flush/cleaner. Added to oil with cold engine, idle for 3-5 minutes, than change oil. Not sure how much it did, but for $8, I figured it might help clean things up a little and help get any remaining DexCool out of the system.

Then replaced the fuel pump on my cousins 97 Tahoe. His was more of a pain than the fuel pump on my 99. Differently shaped tanks. In the end it wasn't even his fuel pump, something in the wiring although the wire connections looked to be in great shape.

My intake gasket blew but after there was a water pump leak and thermostat gasket went. The old gasket didn't fit the truck well at all; so I had a new one installed. Here's the problem. After the intake was installed it was still leaking very slowly. The dealership put a pressure test on it which showed nothing. Now the coolant is starting to draw down, but I'm not seeing the leaks. Is the truck burning coolant abnormally. The engine suffered NO damage when the water pump went nor was there any signs of overheating at all. It was caught somewhat early.


For a while, mine only leaked when the truck warmed up. And my pressure test did not reveal any leaks in the short term testing. Did not test overnight.

I have a 96 tahoe and had the intake gaskets replaced 9 months ago, well they are now leaking again. Has anyone else had this problem? This is just to much to have to keep replacing.

I have finished replacing the intake gasket things went very well, the information from
this post was very helpful. Mine was not leaking allot of coolant yet but as soon as
I replace the rad cap thats when I noticed it really started to leak.. Also the the inside
of the oil filler cap had condesation and burnt orange colored film on it.
That is all gone now.

Thanks for all the information.
Rick

Is your Ac bracket on the right refernce looking at the engine from the bumper?

Do you have a part number for that pulley puller?

I am in the midst of changing the IT manifold. I am AWP for the MS 98000T gaket set. I want to remove the ac bracket inorder to have ample clear work space when I reseat the manifold back onto the block. I welcome your reply

klystron59

[QUOTE=70camaro]OK.

8- Remove the A/C bracket and P/S pump as a UNIT and set aside. There are 4 bolts in the front, and 2 underneath. You DO NOT need to pull the p/s pulley off!!! You do not need to remove the alternator either.

70 camaro, was the ac bracket on the right or left viewing the engine from the bumper?

This bracket is a real knuckle buster and trap one of the bolts.....real b... Could you elaborate pulling the braket and PS unit as a whole?

I appreciate the reply

Klystron59

Just a quick hint. I did my intake gasket on a 305. Was able to move the air comp. bracket far enough by getting under the truck and loosening two bolts. Saved taking of power steering pulley

After a few days of intermittent work, I finally have the intake manifold off for replacing the intake manifold gasket, distributor gear and other smaller parts and gaskets. I took maybe 50 pictures all together and I will start a new thread documenting everything I did, from a non-Pro point of view.. Remember, I am NOT a mechanic, but somehow I managed to do it without help. :smokin:

Right now I am right in the middle of the cleaning stage. Upper manifold is clean already, looks almost like new. Today I am cleaning the block and the aluminum intake manifold.

I have two questions for the experienced among you:

1.) I am using the Fel-Pro MS98000T PermaDryPlus gasket set. One of the few installation tips that came with this set says: "INSTALL SIDE RAIL GASKETS DRY WITHOUT SEALERS". Does that mean that I only apply a 1/4" bead of RTV to create the end seals and nothing else? No RTV at all around ports, or along the gasket? Not even a little tiny smear?!? :confused:

2.) Am I supposed to clean the fuel injectors on the lower intake manifold too?

Thanks!

..and about the A/C bracket: Yes, it is possible to carefully pry the bracket forward after removing the 4 bolts in front. I did exactly that and I was able to expose the intake manifold bolt that was hidden below it. I have a very nice picture of that and I will post it in my thread when I am done.

..and again on that A/C and power steering bracket issue..

You can pry the bracket forward as I mentioned in my previous post, but that's only good for giving you some limited access for loosening the lower manifold bolt hidden behind it. It doesn't give you much room to play with..
..but when it comes to dropping the manifold back in place you WILL need that extra room.. Remember my words!

At first (after removing the A/C compressor from the bracket and taking care of the 3 bolts and the 1 stud in front of the bracket,) I was laying under the truck, wondering which 2 other bolts I need to unscrew. I could not find them and decided to try the pry method. I was then indeed able to remove the manifold bolt and remove the entire manifold, but I remember that I had to do a little twisting and turning and somehow I got it out and off the block.

Before I applied the new gaskets and sealer, I did a lot of 'dry practicing' yesterday and today, trying to simulate dropping the manifold back onto the block. What I thought might be easy to deal with and twist the manifold back onto the block, turned to be a pain in the butt.. I kept bumping into that effin' bracket and just wasn't able to put the manifold back on.
I finally gave up and decided to go back underneath the truck. This time I took plenty of halogen power with me and discovered the two missing bolts. I took one off, loosened the second one and VOILA!!! :bananasmi

All of a sudden I was able to slide the bracket forward as far as I wanted. I took very detailed pictures of those bolts, their location, the forward sliding A/C bracket and all that, and I will come back when I am done and start a new thread on my intake manifold project for all the non-mechanic-DIYers among you :) I promise!

PS - As of tonight, my intake manifold is back where it should be, new gaskets in place, torqued to Fel-Pro specs (50-100-132). While waiting for the sealer to cure (24hrs), I will put the beast back together.. and promise my wife that's I'll never do it again myself :grinyes:
I sure want to hope so!

I am done with my repair!!! :bananasmi

I promised to start a thread about the intake manifold gasket replacement, and I did.., but I didn't realize that this is a Tahoe forum.. I started the thread in the Suburban forum, since my repair was performed on a Suburban.

Below is the link to my thread. I hope it helps someone. Click on the underlined words with links to see the pictures. Some of them might be interesting to people who do this repair for the first time.
Don't know how the A/C bracket slides forward, or what the distributor gear looks like? I took those pictures and it is all been done in the process of replacing my intake manifold gasket. Have fun and let me know what you think.

:feedback:

>>> Intake Manifold Gasket (my own Do-It-Yourself experience) (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=441290) <<<

Suburban-97

:)

I changed the intake gaskets on my tahoe this weekend and cannot get the fuel lines back in right on the fuel metering block. Would anybody happen to know the order of the o-rings and spacer that go on the high pressure line and the return line? I made a novice mistake and didn't check to make sure that everything was out and the order that they were in. Now when I turn the key on fuel sprays everywhere. I have tried to find a breakdown drawing of the assembly but have not had any luck. Any help would be greatly appreciated. :banghead:

I just have one small suggestion to make the job a little bit easier. I have a3/4 ton suburban, and when I was done with my intake my back was killing me from leaning over the truck. A dealership mechanic told me they remove the front wheels and lower the truck onto the ball joints. I havent tried it yet but it sounds like it would help things go a little faster. Like Merlin says take your time and do it right thefirst time.

1. LOOK..take a look at the intake..are there witness marks on the bolts?
Are there areas around where the manifold bolts to the head that are cleaner then the rest of the engine?

a. the gasket has gone thru a few revisions over the years..I believe the new factory gasket is black with metal "plugs" next to the bolt holes

b.I don't quite understand this one, but..GM recommends that a bead of sealer go across the engine block between the heads. I just put a small drop on the head itself to seal the corner where the gasket meets the block.....GM gray silicone or Permatex gray silicone sealers work the best IMHO

Most importantly, the bolt threads need to be cleaned and a small amount of blue loctite is to be applied to the threads when the bolt is installed...torque the bolts to 11ft/lbs

1. I'm confused, AllData says to torque bolts to 44 on first pass and then to 89 on second.
2. Also confused about the bead of sealer across block. This is just to seal between the intake and block???

I did this job last summer and didn,t know the timing is all through the computer now.I marked the outside of the distributer housing but stupid me did not note the position of the rotor.When the distributer whent back in it was one tooth off.The truck was started and I imediatly knew what was wrong and found TDC and repositioned the distributor and got it back to where I think it was.Since then I have had trouble code p0340 and a hard ignision miss around 50 and 70 mph.I do not have the means to time the computor,any thoughts?
Don't make the same mistake , mark the distributor inside and out.
Tmon

I did this job freelance on my 98 sierra in august and it was not fun,wish I knew about this forum then!
My question is this:would it help at all to re-tourque the intake bolts periodicaly(maybee once a year)to keep even preasure on the mating surfaces or would you be asking for trouble?
Just a thought.
Tmon

I did this job freelance on my 98 sierra in august and it was not fun,wish I knew about this forum then!
My question is this:would it help at all to re-tourque the intake bolts periodicaly(maybee once a year)to keep even preasure on the mating surfaces or would you be asking for trouble?
Just a thought.
Tmon

If done properly, the bolts should have Loctite on them and be properly torqued.

When I did my Tahoe intake gaskets, I used 4 wooden dowels (slightly smaller diameter than a pencil) in the corner bolt holes to act as a guide for the manifold. Worked great! No slipping gaskets or smeared RTV. It might also be worth the money to replace the fuel pressure regulator if you split the upper and lower manifolds, fairly cheap insurance.

Anyone have an idea what percent of vortec 5.7 engines had intake gaskets replaced by the time they have 150k????

Anyone have an idea what percent of vortec 5.7 engines had intake gaskets replaced by the time they have 150k????
I would guess 75% or better. Too bad GM would not do any sort of help to us owner's. That is why I bought a new Honda for my wife. No more new $$ to GM from me.

96 5.7 CSFI 150,000 miles Helms manual:
Replaced my fuel pressure regulator this weekend (along with 2 injectors after breaking the poppet valve retainers - man, those things are brittle after they've been in there for a while)
I was surprised at how much carbon residue, from the egr system I would assume, was in the upper intake. Used to carbureted motors, I assume that this accumulation is from the upper intake being "dry," with the absense of a gasoline mixture washing some of the residue away, it just builds up.
It may be in there, but I didn't find sufficient info re o-ring/spacer placement for where the fuel lines plug into the fuel injection body assembly. I also found no mention of the small o-rings in the connection of the fuel lines at the firewall. Luckily, they were still on the lines when I hooked them back up.
All went well, and reseting the "Check Engine Soon" with the scanner showed all ok.
Just comments. . . but I still need to find a source for the poppet valve retainer instead of the whole injector assembly for next time.
RR

Well I have done mine a few times because of various problems with the engine, including a total rebuild.
First I remove the unibelt, then the AC compressor, without bleeding it and flip it over to the passenger side wheel inner fender. (Make sure you move it back before closing the hood) The alternator is removed from the belt tensioner bracket, then I remove the whole tensioner assembly. Remove the heater lines to the water pump and intake. Then I don't remove the PS pump from the bracket assembley, I remove all but one bolt and pull it away from the engine far enough to work on the intake. Remove the air box wiring and air box from the TB, remove the brackets that hold the throttle and cruise cables, disconnecting the cables at the TB. Disconnect the fuel lines back at the transmission, with fuel line wrenches. Unplug the wiring assembly from the upper intake, and all the sensors, remove the distributer, and then start removing the intake bolts, putting them in order on a piece of cardboard with a drawing of the engine. ( I also do this with all the bolts removed from the engine) To make the removal of the intake easier, you have to remove or loosen at least one valve cover.
BTW this isn't a step by step, you are going to have to find all the little parts that are attached to the engine and intake as you go along. I like making a drawing of what I am doing while doing it, I also like to take digital photos as I go along. It isn't a hard fix just a long one untill you get comfortable with doing it. My first time took 8 hours, that last time when I installed are built engine took less than 2.

I removed my intake manifold and there is severe pitting on the #1 and #2 ports. A new intake manifold cost about $600. , is there any way I can use my manifold? Someone said "fill it in with JB weld and the file it back down to flat". Another said "just put lots of silicone sealer to fill in the pitting with a new gasket. Any suggestion?
1997 K1500 Suburban

On my 97 K1500, I have severe pitting on the front two ports. Did you notice any pitting on yours?

I had replaced my intake manifold gasket over a year ago. One problem that I had was with the heater hose where it connects to the manifold. The connection for the hose is a squeeze type connection with an o-ring on the end. I did not have the o-ring seated correctly and the coolant was running down along the the manifold to the rear. The leak was similar to the leak which caused me to replace the gasket in the first place. I thought that the manifold area was warped and I repulled the manifold. I reapplied the manifold and the prblem persisted. After pressurizing the cooling system I located the leak which was barely visible. I wasted alot of time for a minor error. On the postive side I got some extra practice and feel ready for the next gasket repair.

Hey guys...I work in a repair shop and thought I'd pass along my intake tips...you guys already have some really great stuff here for everyone doing it themselves. Hope this helps...We always replace the quick-connect heater hose connector...you don't have to remove the powersteering/A/C bracket...just remove the bolts and slide it back (there's 3 at the top and 2 under the ps pump)...we only use greenie scuff pads as an abrasive to clean the intake and heads...a lot of shop have abandoned the old 3M discs with air tool...use a scraper to get the big stuff but easy on the aluminum...it doesn't have to shine, just be smooth...to get the pass side wiring up and away, go under and remove the p/s switch connector, crank sensor connector, and there's also a ground...then all the wiring will go back. disconnect the fuel lines at the joint right in front of the firewall...leave the stubby lines in the intake. watch out for the o-rings when it goes back in. Please mark your distributor carefully...we usually mark (with a permanent) where the rotor is pointing to the intake...you can get it to point at #1 which can help...might be a good time to replace your cap and rotor while it's off...these caps have a high rate of failure...swing your a/c over to the passenger side...we use GM gaskets as they say they're redesigned...??? This repair doesn't have a whole lot of tricks...it's pretty straight forward. Cleaning and torquing the intake bolts is a must...locktite might help (blue if you're going to use it) You should take your truck to have the timing checked...can only be done with a scanner...you'll only get a check engine light if it's way off...it can still be off and be out of time.

Is there a trick to get the distributor to drop on the oil pump slot? I have the gears lined up and the rotor set correctly I just can not seem to get the distributor to drop down all the way. Any ideas would be much appreciated.

Here is a way to make re-install of the distributor much easier, but lots of care is needed prior to removal.

Warning: Make sure the engine is not cranked until after all removal/install steps are completed.

Removal Steps:
A) Use an exacto knife to scribe a thin line going from the distributor base on to the manifold. On mine, there was already a factory paint mark but I was afraid it would wash off when I cleaned the manifold.
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B) Remove the distributor cap and lightly turn the rotor clockwise (just enough to remove play) and scribe a line on the housing of the distributor adjacent to the contact that sticks out from the rotor. I put a little green paint on that line.
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C) Remove the distributor clamp bolt and carefully watch, as you raise up the distributor. As the gear at the end of the distributor shaft disengages, the rotor will rotate. Raise distributor slowly. When the rotor stops turning, scribe a line on the distributor housing ajacent to the new location the rotor contact is pointing at. I put a little red paint on this line.
-
-
Re-install Steps:
(good to use a new gasket, sometimes they break leaving a little piece on manifold or distributor)
A) Make sure the rotor contact is pointing at the red scribe line AND make sure at the same time the line on the distributor base is pointing at the line on the manifold.
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B) Slowly lower the distributor, watch the rotor turn as the gear engages.
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C) The rotor contact terminal should rotate and point to the green scribe line on the distributor housing when the distributor is fully down.
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D) Snug the clamp bolt making sure the scribe line on manifold and distributor stay lined up.
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E) Slightly rotate the rotor clockwise to make sure play is removed, the rotor should be pointing to the green line.
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F) double-check that the scribe line on manifold and distributor stayed lined up. Fully tighten the clamp bolt.
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Note: If rotor contact is not pointing to the green scribe line, it means distributor is probably one gear tooth off. Go back to Step A of re-install and try again. This method worked correctly for me on my first try.

Are their any aftermarket aluminum intake manifolds for the 5.3L 2000 Silverado?
Thanks Richard

Are their any aftermarket aluminum intake manifolds for the 5.3L 2000 Silverado?
Thanks Richard


I went with the FelPro kit the cylinder side gaskets look like aluminum incased in the rubber gasket, Make sure you apply a nice bead of rtv sealer across the block and up the side just a bit... you will see a good reference on the gasket (tab) sit the gasket over the bead. Go thru several dry runs with the manifold, I had to remove the bracket and tie up the wires to get a good clearance. Another gottcha to watch out for is the injector body "O" cans slip down pretty easily when you place the plenum down.... the result is a vacuum leak (you'll notice it for sure).

Good luck!

Thanks for the reply mine is not leaking yet. I was looking for an aluminum intake. All I have been able to find require a blower around $2500.00 or a carburetor or which is not what I want.

Are you looking for an Aluminum upper intake manifold - sometimes I hear them called plenums..... Anyway I looked into a non plastic upper aka aluminum, what I found was the reason for the plastic vs aluminum is heat displacement. Becasue aluminum can get really hot this heated the air and caused for rough operation. So it doesn't surprise me that the switch would entail all that extra stuff.... Just go with a Nitro system :)

I have been replacing these intake gaskets for a long time as well. GM did revise their design with anti-crush buttons. The bad thing, it's the same plastic/o-ring design.
Felpro finally came out with an all new concept. Like stated earlier, it's an aluminum plate with bonded rubber. Seems like these will outlast the vehicle.

Echo's dad and Ron pretty much described all needed info.

I am really looking for an aluminum manifold to replace the plastic one. I finally found one for around $500.00 but really want a cheaper one. Mine isn't leaking yet.

Just replaced the infamous gaskets last week on 98 5.7 Silverado. Took about 6 hours. So far I put about 50 miles on her and haven't lost a drop.

A few tips.

Don't take off the AC bracket. I took off the pump(4 big bolts) leaving all the hoses connected. Loosen up the bracket bolts and gently pry forward. I had a good inch of movement, worked great.

I got my gasket from NAPA, they are Victor Reinz brand. I got a kit for about $70. The intake gaskets are great and have built in guide pins so you don't have to worry about slippage.

The distributor, I disconnected the wires and cap. Notice where the rotor is pointing. I use the clock method. When you pull it out it's going to move, that's it needs to be when you drop it back in. Had no problem there.

I really didn't have any major problems. I would suggest replacing the heater hose quick disconnect while you have it out. Mine broke off about a year ago. What some cheap metal. It was a job getting the broke off piece out.

If you do mess up with the distributor, you need to get the engine to TDC on the #1 cylinder.


Getting the engine to TDC on #1

Remove the sparkplug and have someone turn the engine clockwise w/a ratchet on the crankshaft. When you feel air coming out of the #1 sparkplug hole, you are on the compression stroke. Now you need to get the timing mark on the harmonic balancer to the 12 o'clock position


Setting up the distributor for installation

There is a small 1/4 inch slot/slit in the botton the distributor that is open all the way thru. It comes out in s little round piece that sticks out of the bottom the distributor base. You need to line the rotor tip up with this hole. You need to position the distributor the way it was when you removed it (the wires are coming out at 90 degrees relative to the crankshaft).


Installing the Distributor

Holding the distributor so when the cap is on, the wires are coming out from each side and the rotor is lined up with the slit, install the distributor in the engine. The rotor should turn as it goes into the engine and the rotor should end up lined up with a very small "8" that is embossed on the distributor.

Tighten down the distributor. If you happened to mark the orientation of the distributor, make sure it is still aligned.

This should at least get your truck running so you can get it to a shop w/a scan tool that can set things right for you.

I'd prefer not to go into detail regarding why/how I ended up having to use this method to get my Yukon running after the intake manifold gaskets. I just hope it helps someone else out.

This thread has been very helpful to me, but I still have a question, and wonder if anyone can help.
I have a 99 Tahoe, 117Kmiles, 5.7L engine and coolant has been disappearing (maybe a gallon over a three month period). There are no visible leaks. There does seem to be some tan/yellow froth on the inside of the oil filler cap and filler tube - indicating there may be some coolant in the oil. There is also a rust color on the threads of the oil filler cap. Oil on the dipstick seems normal but the oil level seems slightly high. Looking at the coolant reservoir as the truck warms up - I see no bubbles - indicating no combustion chamber air being forced back into the cooling system - but I don't know how likely it would be to see this even if there were a head gasket leak.
So I'm guessing I have an internal intake manifold leak, but how can I be sure it's not a head gasket problem?? I saw mention of a radiator leakdown test, But it seems like a intake manifold leak could also result in a leakdown problem.
Also, I had just replaced the plugs, wires etc and plugs all appeared fairly uniform - with a tan color. 6 of 8 had a slight brown crust on one side of the insulator but these had 70K plus miles on them.

Any advice on how I can identify which problem I have??
And how much should I worry about driving it in the mean time?
Thanks

Dude, I had the exact same problem with my Tahoe. I'm almost 99.9999999999999999% positive its not a head gasket...once you replace the lower intake gaskets you'll see why....the gaskets GM put on there are pieces of sh$t!!! My buddy started laughing when he saw them just hanging there corroded to hell. I got the fel pro gaskets I believe...these things are solid bro...has aluminium within the gasket itself...it was nice...these babies won't leak, I guarantee you that....but yeah...both my buddy and I thought it was a head gasket problem, but it wasn't...the work isn't hard, just a pain in the ass...just take your time with it and drink a few beers, no worries.

Thanks, you were right - intake manifold gasket. It's all done now. And I was wrong about there being no external leaks they got worse and more noticeable quickly.

Two Questions.
1. Can the Dexcool be replaced by other anitfreez types. I've seen some comments online about replacing the Dexcool with the green antifreeze. One used a flush machine to suck out all the old. Any comments on this?
2. The gasket choices I've seen here are the FelPro PermaDryPlus or the Victor Reinz gaskets. I've come across another made by ROL. Anyone heard of ROL and do you have any suggestions on which to use? (I didn't understand the nature of this problem and replaced mine with the standard FelPro gaskets last year and they are leaking again -I'm not going to repeat that mistake)

brake lights don't work,changed brake switch,checked fuses,also circuit board. What's next

stuck in 4 wheel drive....changed the switch inside the truck...checked fuse..is there a sensor somewhere on the truck

No you do not just did this Friday and once you remove the bolts in front you can see there is a stud down underneath that you loosen the nut and the bracket will just lay over to the right out of your way. I did not know it but the nut was loose and mine push out of the way and then I saw it.

I have a 97 that has had the intake manifold gasket replaced and I am looking at a 2001 model with a different engine, 5.3 litre I believe. Does anyone know if this engine has the same problem with the gaskets?

The 5.3 liter doesn't have the intake problem.

I'm getting ready to tackle my gasket problem. Do I need the gasket kit or just the lower gasket? I have read soem different answers. I think I can keep the lower and up together and taking the valve covers off is optional. So it sounds like I could get away with just the lower gasket. I have (knock on wood) 180,000 miles on my Tahoe and it starts and runs great except for the coolant problem. I know it would be nice to replace the value cover gaskets but if the worst thing that happens is that it lets a a little oil seep out I can live with that.

What do you guys think? Kit or just the lower gasket?

The problem is if it leaks you are going to purchase the gaskets again and do a lot of work again. I think you should at least take it apart before buying as it would be cheaper to buy a kit than to buy one and then find out you need the other one.
I always find it takes longer to get the parts than to do the job. Since you are doing the work make your own decision.

I would get the kit. I got my gasket from NAPA, they are Victor Reinz brand. I got a kit for about $70. The intake gaskets are great and have built in guide pins so you don't have to worry about slippage. What ever you do, don't mess with the power steering pulley. Check my other post for some tips. Mark all your wires and take your time.

Hylomar (http://www.hylomar.com/)

the only way to seal

I need help with upper intake manifold on a 98 chevy silverado 5.7l r motor all bolts are removed but will not come off. what did i miss?

hey, hope i'm not to late. I had the same problem and after inspecting my new gasket set, I saw one about the size of the electrical plug ( the big one ) in the middle. With some coaxing the plug will push down through the upper intake, just be careful not to break the plastic. Hope this helps you or someone in the near future.

I need help with upper intake manifold on a 98 chevy silverado 5.7l r motor all bolts are removed but will not come off. what did i miss?

If you are certain you got all the bolts, try prying gently on a non-machined surface. A lot of the time they're stuck on there pretty good. The bottom flat part (against the block) is silicon sealant which sticks better than some glues.

Quick note to thank everyone who has posted their comments / solutions to replacing their intake manifold gasket. I did mine over the last week or so with the Fel-pro kit I picked up from AZ. Turned out to be a fairly simple, straight forward task, took my time, took plenty of photos, labeled connectors etc. Marked the distributer, housing, and rotor in about 3 places. I did not have to remove the power steering pump, but unbolted the bracket and slid it forward out of the way. Also, since the radiator was drained, i pulled and cleaned it.

I ran into two snags, the first was the ERG pipe that comes up on the driver's side exhaust manifold, across the intake and connects opposite the heater core quick disconnect. I ended up destroying the pipe trying to get it off of the intake manifold and had to buy a new one (probably should have WD-40'd it the night before, but oh well). The second snag was cleaning out the bolt holes - I was runing the tap down the bolt holes in the head (very back one, passanger side), I slipped and managed to snap off the tap flush with the head. If this happens to you, look for a Walton tap extractor ($13). Picked one up and in 30 seconds had the broken tap out and was ready to move forward.

There has been some discussion on whether or not to put a sealer on hte gasket or install it dry. I opt'd to put a thin smear of permetex on both sides of the gasket aroudn each port. Figured it couldn't hurt. Also sacrificed a few papermate pens to make sure the manifold was aligned properly (Thanks Suburban-97) and installed the manifold and torque'd it down. There was some discepency in the torque setting, I read both 11 ft lbs and 30 ft lbs. Since most were listing it as 11 ft lbs, thats what I went with, seems a bit light tho. Next day I spent probably 3 hours to get everything back on, including replaceing the plugs, wires, and rotor.

After everything was done, I realized that the o-ring in the heater hose - manifold quick disconnect was screwed up. I sprayed the old one down with WD-40 the night before and the next day, it unscrewed without any problem and replaced it with an aftermarket one. If you are getting ready to do the job, just spend the $15 and pick one up with the gasket set, from what I have been reading - I got lucky, its another problem point and would be much easier to fix with the manifold off and on the bench.

Got it all put back together and started it up. Noticed a pretty good leak coming from the rear passanger side of the engine, to the point of having a nice puddle on the garage floor. And after some looking around, feeling for a leak, swearing etc., I pretty much ruled out the gasket as being the source. It was too big of a leak to be coming from the intake. However, before I tore it apart again, I rented a pressure tester and pumped it up to 16 psi, and watched the pressure drop. Water now running down the front of the engine, front of intake manifold? water pump? Then noticed that I never snapped the hose clamp back in place for the heater core line where it attaches to the water pump - idiot, idiot, idiot.. I think the fan was pushing enough air that the water was running along the manifold to the rear and running down the backside of the block. With the pressure tester, gravity took over and it just ran down the front. Fixed that and she held 16 psi for 45 minutes - put on the radiator cap and started it up. Haven't noticed a leak since.

Again, thanks everyone for your previous posts and insights / tips, they were a big help.

There has been some discussion on whether or not to put a sealer on hte gasket or install it dry. I opt'd to put a thin smear of permetex on both sides of the gasket aroudn each port. Figured it couldn't hurt. ... There was some discepency in the torque setting, I read both 11 ft lbs and 30 ft lbs.

It's too late now, but I believe it even says in the instructions NOT to use any sealer except on the block between the heads. The gaskets are designed to be installed dry.

11 sounds right. some are 18, or anywhere in between. GM changed the spec at some point, hoping to aleviate the problem. As long as the torque is even on all bolts (except the diagonal bolts on some...), it should be fine.

I hope this is the right place to post this. I am new to this forum.
I just completed the intake manifold repair on a Chevy Silverado w/5.0 litre engine.
To begin with, my coolant was disappearing from my tank. With a pressure gauge, I found it to be an external leak, an intake gasket. I had no milkey looking oil on dipstick or on filler cap. I did the repair using step by step instructions. Being very carefull not to screw up.But I think I did.
After I got manifold replaced, I connected all hoses then pressure checked. Every thing seemed OK. I then put everything back together.Changed oil and coolent. Started engine and it ran great.Then things went to crap. Service engine light came on and engine started smoking. White smoke. I knew it was water. Oil was milkey now. What could I have done to cause this? I have an internal leak now. Could it be the new gasket?
Will have to redo job. Will I need to buy new gaskets again or can I reuse these? I think I can do job in 1/2. the time this time

Your taking a big chance on doing the job again using the old gaskets. If you used a proper torque wrench. I would say you didn't get the gasket surface clean. Clean bolt holes if any silicon sealer was used.Look real close at the plastic intake it may be cracked. Watch bolt length closely as this can cause big problems. I have had to use washers if my used supply of bolts was slightly longer than the defective bolt. Before tearing down check closely for a missing bolt.
Proper cleaning takes a while if you don't have an air buffer which uses sta- brite pads..

I want to remove the upper plastic part so I can clean the lower part in solvent, and replace a broken injecter shield. I removed all of the bolts holding the upper and lower together. The upper lifts about 1/8 inch, and spins around a bit, but won't come off. I removed the throttle tube and can see a bracket in there, but can't find how to release it. Anyone know how to split this intake in half?

OK ,I figured out how to split the top and bottom. Remove the 10mm bolts around the outside edge.
There is a big oval pod in the top middle of the plactic where the injection wiring pluged into. There are 16 electrical pins inside of it. Push down on that while you pull up on the plastic top. The oval shaped pod stays bolted to the alum. bottom during seperation. WOW is it dirty down in there.

98 Tahoe5.7,
Since it's been a while since your post, you've probably already figured it out by now.
When I split my manifold, took the injection system out for cleaning - broke at least 3 of the retainers (they get extremely brittle) for the poppet valves into the intake.
Had to buy complete new injectors for each one I broke.
Hope your luck was different.

One of the reasons I bought my '96 Tahoe was because the transmission had been rebuilt, and another was because the intake manifold gasket had been done. But, I'm going to keep a close eye on it as I don't know what kind of gasket was used.

I removed the upper manifold this past week to replace the fuel pressure regulator to try and fix a fuel pressure problem I've been having, where fuel pressure drops off after the pump pressurizes the system. I was able to get the intake off and clean the inside, but as you guys have mentioned the fuel injector clips are very brittle. One had both clips broken, and another had one clip broken but also a tab on the bottom of it.

I was lucky enough to find a whole new spider assembly on eBay for the price of two injectors, so it's going in this coming weekend. If I find anything else to add, I'll mention it, but this is really a job anyone can do with a few tools and some patience.

how can i find out were the fuel lines go into the runners on 98 tahoe i mixed one pair up thanks richie e mail richiehat@aol.com

how did you know were to put back lines in intake runners they have to be in correct location.