Codes 171 & 174 TSB # 03-16-1 update

where do i fint the tech service bullitin

where do i fint the tech service bullitin

Everything you need to know...including a copy of the TSB is located here.....http://leckemby.net/windstar/windstar01.html

Good luck.

what does this mean

If you are getting 171 and 174 codes you have a lean (too much air) or (too little fuel) getting into the combustion chambers. O2 sensors can cause engines to run rough and disconnecting them sometimes causes the engine to smooth out. Since it didn't I suspect something else is wrong. Since 171 and 174 codes have a TSB I'd start there. It's relatively cheap and easy to do.

If you are not comfortable with making the repair take it to Ford and let them fix it.

This site is excellent. the advise shared here has saved so much $ for those who have been fortunate enough to have come across this thread.
Here is my question.
Has anyone had an oil leak problem as a result of the gaskets in question? I have the codes and no doubt have oil built up in the plenum. I get oil pooled up on the exterior of the engine, right on the aluminum intake. (only on the left side). I know there is no oil channels running through the intake manifold. My only guess is the oil is building up in the plenum, working its way through the bad isolator bolts and then working its way to the lower end of the intake. Any suggestions? I will try and get pics if it helps to clarify.

I have not seen this but my experience with the problem comes from one source - quite limited. Perhaps others have seen oil build up too.

One of the things about this problem is that oil is pulled into the PVC and connecting tube. I have seen oil dripping from the fittings on each end on my Windstar prior to the fix.

If you determine the problem and it is related to this TSB and your pictures are good I will modify the site and add your pictures (with your permission) if you provide editorial comment.

Pcitizen.


This site is excellent. the advise shared here has saved so much $ for those who have been fortunate enough to have come across this thread.
Here is my question.
Has anyone had an oil leak problem as a result of the gaskets in question? I have the codes and no doubt have oil built up in the plenum. I get oil pooled up on the exterior of the engine, right on the aluminum intake. (only on the left side). I know there is no oil channels running through the intake manifold. My only guess is the oil is building up in the plenum, working its way through the bad isolator bolts and then working its way to the lower end of the intake. Any suggestions? I will try and get pics if it helps to clarify.

Sorry for the long post but i want to share the info for future readers. I ended up getting the repair kit from NAPA for $108 (dealer wanted well over $200) which included all the isolator bolts (green), gaskets, valve cover, PCV, small vacuum line, and the throttle body gaskets. Parts were made in China but prior posts suggest they are just as good. I'll let you know if they fail early. Did the job last night in exactly 2.5 hours which included removing the cowl (worth the extra step as you can access the rear bolts easier, and ensure all vacuum lines and electrical connectors are connected before start up). Its too bad i didnt see this thread earlier as i had the cowl off about 3 months ago when i did plugs/wires.
This job was really easy, but i have had my share of back yard fixes so i kind-of knew what i was getting myself into.
Here is what i found. As i said in my first post, i was getting oil all over the place as well as the 171/174 codes. I couldnt tell where the oil was coming from so i knew i would have to tear it down to get a better view. The oil was coming from the failed isolator bolts. It was leaking past the posts and down to the center of the lower intake manifold. After i took the Plenum off, the top of the aluminum manifold had oil all over it. I couldnt see it with the Plenum on, only a little puddle in a depression on the front of the manifold. Inside the plenum, i saw just what everyone else has run into, lots of oil that got sucked in via the PCV. I think the longest part of the job was cleaning up the plenum and removing carbon and gum from the throttle body. I used MEK (methyl Ethal Ketone) to clean the contacts where the gaskets meet the intake. MEK is excellent at breaking down oil residue and gum. It flashes off quickly so there is no concern with damage to the gaskets. After it flashes (drys) just go back over the cleaned surface with a clean rag to ensure the residue is fully removed. The valve cover is a piece of cake, 5 bolts, be careful, they are small and overtightening can lead to a bigger fix than you planned for. Finger tighten, then use a wrench but only until you get solid resistance. Better to have a leak than a broken bolt in the head. you can always go back and tighten if it leaks, not as easy if you break one off. The new valve cover was not painted so i took the step to prime and paint before install. I didnt attach photos as the pics in the guide shown earlier in the thread were spot on. (cudos to the author).
After the job it started right up without issue. I ran around town for about an hour and so far (fingers crossed) no codes and no oil leaking.

As far as peoples question if you can drive with the codes, i have had these codes for almost 3 years. It drove fine over that time and the light was more annoying than anthing. Mechanics that have worked on it in the past had no idea of this problem so i didnt get any guidance until i saw this thread. Mechs told me to run it, if it didnt seem to affect the performance. I wasnt getting any surging, sputtering etc. I must have gotten lucky, or perhaps i will have to replace the cat because of it?? Who knows at this point. but it does appear to run just fine.

thanks to all of you who have put your advice in this thread. It saved me a lot of $ and i think it was the fix my van needed. I only wish the members in my fishing forum were as willing to share their secrets:smile:

I also bought the kit. It was $79+ shipping from Boston. It was made in China. It has been 18 mths. No problem so far.

I have changed the port seal, isolater bolts, cleaned the EGR ports, new plus and wires, air filter and I am still pulling a 171 (Fuel trim bank one condition) Any suggestions on where to go from here ? Thanks in advance for any help.....

I have changed the port seal, isolater bolts, cleaned the EGR ports, new plus and wires, air filter and I am still pulling a 171 (Fuel trim bank one condition) Any suggestions on where to go from here ? Thanks in advance for any help.....

I no longer have my Windstar any more, but you need to make sure that you do not have any vacuum leaks check all hoses and tubes.

also it could be a bad fuel injector, they are quite easy to take out, and just give them a good cleaning.

Go back through all of my posts in this thread I tried a lot of things before I finaly solved it.

I have 2000 Windstar and 171&174 codes.
Problem is it stalled in the street. After tow home and battery charge, it doesn't turn over. Just clicks.
Would these codes by themselves cause a stall and simulate a starter problem???

Hello, it doesn't sound like thats what coused it, it should still be running even with codes, you might have other problems.

I no longer have my Windstar any more, but you need to make sure that you do not have any vacuum leaks check all hoses and tubes.

also it could be a bad fuel injector, they are quite easy to take out, and just give them a good cleaning.

Go back through all of my posts in this thread I tried a lot of things before I finaly solved it.


174 is a lean code could be oxy censors but the ecm tends to hang on to codes even after you clear them. take some seafoam put it in the gas tank to clean the injectors then put in a half a quart of tranny flud in the take to keep your injectors working properly. Something else i learned if you look at the speeddometer and it shows 35 mph but you know you are doing 65 and you have an abs light on your dash check if the abs sensor is front left or right fix it ti will fix you problem. i learn the front abs is connected to the speedometer in the ecm check your speed sensor from the tranny to ecm it most likly will be correct. its the strangest thing i ever saw and annoying.

windstar 2002
I got the new kit, and I put it in the vehicle and use it for a couple trips and there they are those pesky po171 and 174 again any suggestions ("never mind")

Where did you bougth the kit? there is a website to buy from?

i got from (rockauto.com)

I suspect the O2 sensor needs replaced. Also check for loose or broken vacuum lines. While doing that, check or replace the Positive Crankcase Ventalation (PCV).

I purchased all my parts from my local Ford dealer. Many aftermarket vendors sell parts too.

oppps never mind I forgot to connect one of the vacuum hoses.

Quick Question...I have driven with these codes for almost 2 years and today my car started shaking while I was driving and my check engine light started flashing. I have parked the car and was wondering if doing the repair kit will solve my problem of the car shaking. Any suggestions?

Quick Question...I have driven with these codes for almost 2 years and today my car started shaking while I was driving and my check engine light started flashing. I have parked the car and was wondering if doing the repair kit will solve my problem of the car shaking. Any suggestions?
I would suggest to check the codes or have them checked and see if there are new codes

We have a 99 windstar that was throwing the right and left banks lean code found the photo thread of changing out the gaskets, bolts and valve cover. I can not locate the thread with all of the pics again, but to whom ever took their time to post it I just want to say THANK YOU VERY MUCH!!! The van was running really crappy and this has fixed the problem. I did not read every post in this thread but just wanted to throw in this mix that Advanced Auto parts sells a kit containing all of the pieces needed for $97.99 (if you you purchase something else to make it $100 or more and order online and use promo code BIG35 you will get a $35 dicount and free shipping to your door)

Part number 615-177

I just got through putting it all in and took under two hours, did not remove the cowling.

Now how do I clear the codes off?

Thanks again!!!

Now to put two sway bar links on and a cv joint boot this week end.

Hello G3farms,

Welcome to the forum!

The codes will reset themselves after a few driving cycles if the PCM detects no other problems. Another thing is to use an OBD II scan tool to manually erase them from the memory. I think Autozone does not erases codes anymore, maybe another autoparts store?

Best regards,

Oscar.

PS That's a good info on the discount, I have a friend who lives in Kentucky who might be interested!

I think you can also disconnect the battery cable for about 15 minutes and the codes should be gone.
p.s. just curious if you had the rear axle recall in TN. I called the dealer yesterday and they said the new axle might be in by January :shakehead
I don't mind driving a brand new Chrysler minivan while we wait.:grinno: Only thing is it doesn't have the auto start like our Ford and winter has arrived early in NY:eek:

I have not heard of or gotten a recall notice for the rear axle.

I will try removing the battery cable also.

thanks!

well keep an eye on it because they recalled over 500,000 '98-03 windstars. very dangerous when it breaks, luckily I heard squeaking coming from the rear last year & thought it was the shocks. my mechanic welded it because Ford wouldn't cover it and now they are paying for the repair & a rental :nono:

Does anyone know the torque & sequence for the intake manifold? I'm almost done with the upgrade, but I also took off the 'metal' intake to replace the gaskets underneath. I'm just waiting for the parts to show up. :runaround:Thanks in advance. -Jim

Start in the center of the manifold and tighten the bolts in two to three stages using a criss-cross pattern.

Thanks. Is the torque the same as the plenum bolts? (89in lbs?)

I asked the Oracle (Google) and it revealed this:


For a 2000 Ford Windstar the lower manifold bolts are tightened in two steps. First to 44 inch pounds and finally to 89 inch pounds. The spacer section above, and the top cover, both "plastic" are tightened in a single step to 89 inch pounds each.

For a 2000 Ford Windstar the lower manifold bolts are tightened in two steps. First to 44 inch pounds and finally to 89 inch pounds. The spacer section above, and the top cover, both "plastic" are tightened in a single step to 89 inch pounds each. Thanks a bunch for the info! I got my parts in yesterday and I'm going out now to put it back together. We had a shop tell us #5 injector wasn't working (by unplugging and plugging it back in), so I have 1 new one. We also showed misfires on #4 & #5 from an Autozone computer read out along with EGR errors. I've already replaced the EGR 'sensor' although mine was plastic and not the aluminum one they talk about. I also realize from previous posts that it may not even be a bad injector causing misfires. I guess I'll find out shortly.

Update: I have everything put back together; Intake Manifold gasket, green bolts, valve cover kit w/ hoses, reconnected/rigged IMRC linkage which had fallen off. Replaced 1 fuel injector, spark plugs. As it turns out, I didn't need the upgrade valve cover for a 2002, but I used it anyways because I needed the hoses that came with the kit.

Anyways, when I started it, it started around 2000 rpms, then dropped to around 1500, then it dropped again to a normal idle for a short time. I pulled each injector plug in front (4,5,6) and the engine dropped slightly each time, so it looks like they are all firing now. (5 was the bad one I replaced). After driving it though, it stayed on a 'fast' idle (1500?). I had to keep my foot ready to brake. It also runs rough; jerking at times with some noise. :banghead: Any ideas? I need to drive it more tomorrow to get a better description of what it's doing. For now, I can't see where I missed any hoses or connectors.

Problem solved; a hose came off the back left side of the air intake plenum probably when I was positioning it around. For the first day, the idle speed jumped every once in a while which made you keep your foot on the brake, but today it's fine. Maybe some cleaner residue was blowing through the air intake. :)

Thanks to everyone who has contributed to this thread, particularly pcitizen for the outstanding step-by-step how-to webpage.

Well, you're very welcome.

PCitizen.

Thanks to everyone who has contributed to this thread, particularly pcitizen for the outstanding step-by-step how-to webpage.

pcitizen, I wanted to thank you as well. After putting it off for years, today I finally replaced the bolts and gaskets on my 2000 Windstar using your webpage as a terrific guide. I also cleaned out the 3 totally, and 2 partially, blocked EGR ports that were causing engine stuttering around 1,500 RPM (the reason I finally decided to dig in - never saw an actual reason to do the bolts/gaskets - even a Ford mechanic I talked to said don't bother).

I have 2 followup questions though. I noticed the TSB said to do a PCM reprogram, but didn't see hardly any discussion about it on the forum - I think you had 1 post. Any thoughts?

Also, when searching for PCM posts, I came across one mentioning a rattling upper plenum baffle and using RTV to silence it "as seen often on this thread". But a search for RTV and baffle turned up only the 1 post. My wife (her vehicle, thank God) has been hearing an engine rattle recently, and today I did too after reassembly, and it DOES sound like it's coming from the plenum. So looks like I'll be taking it off again! Have you heard much about this - type of sealant, where, etc.?
Thanks!

I have no information on reprogramming the PCM. I didn't do it when I applied the mechanical parts of the TSB. I have had no further issues.

With regards to the rattling baffle plate. I suspect a good, high quality, high temperature silcone; e.g., Permatex Ultra Black RTV, would suffice but you must ensure that all oil is removed from the mating surfaces before you apply it. Otherwise it will eventually come loose and get down into the intake's vavles and eventually cause problems down stream from there.

If you do use RTV ensure you allow it time to set up completely.

Well gang, after 3 days of studying this thread, to read everybody's experiences and tweaks, I'm ready to dive in.

I have already pulled much of the engine area apart, following the awesome walkthrough provided. I'm about ready to take off the plenum and get into the good stuff.

I am not mechanically inclined, but this thread and the walkthrough have given me the courage to try. It all makes pretty decent sense.

My windstar is a 2002, has 130k, or maybe 150k, I can't remember off the top of my head. We've had it for 3 years, and I don't know what's original and what's been replaced before we bought it. I am going to replace cabin and air filters while I'm in there, and I'm thinking about doing all the spark plugs and wires since I'm in there too.

It appears I don't need the new valve cover, since it's a 2002 and I don't see the 5 o clock hole mentioned... So I just want to clean that and put it back, right?

What else should I attend to while I'm in there too, just in the spirit of preventative maintenance? I think i may replace some rubber hoses, but I need to look closely and see what needs to be replaced.

Can these isolator bolts and gaskets be found at autozone, or do I need to get them from a dealer? I see several of you bought kits, but I don't have time for shipping. I have exactly tomorrow (labor day) to work on this. so I'm just trying to figure out the least screwed way to get the parts :)

Thanks to everybody for their input, I'll be back soon with a report!!!

farns

Well I farted around with it some more tonight, trying to be all ready to roll in the morning when the dealership opens and I can get my new bolts. I got it all broken down to the plenum removed and cleaning up all the goop holes. Mine were substantially worse than the photo on PC's walkthru: http://leckemby.net/windstar/14a.jpg

So I have a new question... the walkthru says to ignore the butterfly valves, but they are caked with residue. What is behind there, the actual pistons of the engine or something? I mean, is it possible to hose some carb cleaner down in there and clean that out, or will that just send it where it would do more damage?

What exactly is this part of the engine? Is it where combustion occurs? I'm in way over my head knowledge-wise, but at the moment I'm not worried that I won't be able to get it back together again. So far. LOL.

I need to go buy some mineral spirits and get the parts all cleaned up, but so far so good, I think!

Well gang, after 3 days of studying this thread, to read everybody's experiences and tweaks, I'm ready to dive in.

I have already pulled much of the engine area apart, following the awesome walkthrough provided. I'm about ready to take off the plenum and get into the good stuff.

I am not mechanically inclined, but this thread and the walkthrough have given me the courage to try. It all makes pretty decent sense.

My windstar is a 2002, has 130k, or maybe 150k, I can't remember off the top of my head. We've had it for 3 years, and I don't know what's original and what's been replaced before we bought it. I am going to replace cabin and air filters while I'm in there, and I'm thinking about doing all the spark plugs and wires since I'm in there too.

It appears I don't need the new valve cover, since it's a 2002 and I don't see the 5 o clock hole mentioned... So I just want to clean that and put it back, right?

What else should I attend to while I'm in there too, just in the spirit of preventative maintenance? I think i may replace some rubber hoses, but I need to look closely and see what needs to be replaced.

Can these isolator bolts and gaskets be found at autozone, or do I need to get them from a dealer? I see several of you bought kits, but I don't have time for shipping. I have exactly tomorrow (labor day) to work on this. so I'm just trying to figure out the least screwed way to get the parts :)

Thanks to everybody for their input, I'll be back soon with a report!!!

farns

>> Yes... clean the valve cover and replace the gasket if it is damaged.
>> Check the hoses as you suggest. I wouldn't replace them unless they are deteriorated/dry rotted/soft/or missing.
>> I don't know about AutoZone and the isolator bolts. If the parts store is on the way to Ford - stop and check.

Well I farted around with it some more tonight, trying to be all ready to roll in the morning when the dealership opens and I can get my new bolts. I got it all broken down to the plenum removed and cleaning up all the goop holes. Mine were substantially worse than the photo on PC's walkthru: http://leckemby.net/windstar/14a.jpg

So I have a new question... the walkthru says to ignore the butterfly valves, but they are caked with residue. What is behind there, the actual pistons of the engine or something? I mean, is it possible to hose some carb cleaner down in there and clean that out, or will that just send it where it would do more damage?

What exactly is this part of the engine? Is it where combustion occurs? I'm in way over my head knowledge-wise, but at the moment I'm not worried that I won't be able to get it back together again. So far. LOL.

I need to go buy some mineral spirits and get the parts all cleaned up, but so far so good, I think!

>> Behind the valves are in the intake valves. If you chose to clean them don't use anything that can fall in there. Perhaps use cotton swabs with acetone on them. I would not spray carb cleaner down there!
>> Behind the valves are in the intake valves an on the other side of the intake valves are the pistons.

I am happy to see that you found the site helpful and it is good that you jumped in to fix this yourself.

Jeff L.
PCitizen

Oh snap.

Everything's been going great so far... (except for those isolator bolts costing me about $11 each at the dealer!)

I'm just finishing up the plugs and wires and then I'm gonna start putting her back together.

I totally pooched the back 3 wires, I lost track of which was which. My haynes book doesn't give me a diagram to make sure I get the right wire to the right plug. I'm gonna search the forum real fast, but wanted to post here in case one of you guys knew the answer right off. 2002 windstar, 3.8L v6

ok, found this:

http://wiki.answers.com/Q/How_do_you_know_which_wire_goes_where_on_the_ignit ion_coil_and_spark_plugs_on_a_Ford_Windstar

Anybody agree or disagree?

Well crap.

If that guy's explanation is right, then my van's been wired wrong for years. I'm not sure about this now. I'm officially worried for the first time in this project!

Well crap.

If that guy's explanation is right, then my van's been wired wrong for years. I'm not sure about this now. I'm officially worried for the first time in this project!

>> A little confused here. Did you take the wires out of the looms? If you didn't they will only reach so far. I my Windstar the looms run the wires to within a couple inches of each plug. None will reach the adjacent plugs. My engine is a 3.8 too.

I got it all figured out. Autozone has a pretty detailed schematic and wiring diagram, which made the front 3 plugs/wires that I didn't foul up make sense. So I feel pretty good about where I'm at right now.

Just came in to check the torque settings for the isolator bolts, about ready to crank those bitties down!

Hopefully I can have the stamina to finish this tonight! I'm dying. I sit at a keyboard all day long, my back is NOT loving me right now LOL

be back shortly for a report!!!

WOW!!! YAY!!! YAHOOOOO!!!!

It works guys!!! It really works!! Got everything all put back together and it fired right up!! Strange looks from the neighbors when I did the happy dance, the chicken dance, and the macarena on my front lawn!

Again, I am NOT a mechanical person. Bookees all over were putting the odds against me to have a junkyard contribution at the end of the day. It never would have happened without pcitizen's walkthrough and everybody else's input. You guys are all soooo awesome! I will put some miles on it this week and let you know if the codes are gone.

Thanks for everything, once I recover from this, I'm going to see what I need to do to fix a door lock motor.

Now I just need to get it over to Wal Mart and get the oil changed!

Make sure to clean out the EGR ports on the intake they get clogged with the oil sucked in from the bad valve cover. also Dorman sells a kit with all parts need to fix this problem (part number 615-177). Don't for get to get you computer flashed as i understand it it will mask the vacuum leak from the IMRC (intake manifold runner control).Also to get the hood out of the way there are black bolts that stop the hood from opening all the way back them off and put a thick piece of cardboard on the windshield and the hood will hinge all the way back. ALL BOLTS ARE TORQUED TO INCH LB. REPEAT... ALL BOLTS ARE TORQUED TO INCH LB. also make sure all your mating surfaces are clean and dry.

Just completed this repair on my 1999 with 125K miles and all went very smoothly thanks to the excellent step-by-step directions and fantastic pictures provided by everyone including pcitizen, wiswind and especially the leckemby link. I was getting the check engine light (0174 too lean bank 2) and the engine was running rough, whistling noise audible inside the van. Lucky enough to pick up the parts pretty inexpensively on eBay (8-pack of Dorman isolator bolts for $27 shipped) and with the savings I decided to change the long-overdue spark plugs too (eBay again, 6 Autolite Double Platinum plugs for $11 shipped). A few items came from Amazon.com (Autolite Professional plug wires, PCV valve, anti-seize and such) and altogether my cash output was about $63.

Interesting thing about the Isolator bolts I removed -- they apparently had already been changed at some point (I bought the van used with 83K miles several years ago) as they were the green-sleeved replacement type. Has anyone heard of the replacement bolts wearing prematurely? Maybe due to lack of changing the valve cover? They looked almost identical to the new Dorman bolts I was installing. The spark plugs I replaced looked to be the originals, and didn't have much left to the center electrode; the hex nut sections were so rusted the plugs were crumbling as I carefully eased them out. Amazing that the van was still running at all.

Anyway, after all was complete & put back together, the van started right up and is now purring like a kitten with the check engine light pacified. Have driven it almost 100 miles since the repair & all is well. Thanks again to the great contributors on this forum!

will the 8 isolater bolts and port gaskets be enough to fix this problem. I think my 2003 valve cover and vacuum line are ok. hoping for a cheap fix with cleaned ports, new port gaskets and isolater bolts. bolts from ford canada are 15.00 each here. lol. Any help appreciated, thx.

That will fix it, but if the van holds up you may be fixing it again in 70,000ish miles since the oil will still be getting up into the intake baffle.

will the 8 isolater bolts and port gaskets be enough to fix this problem. I think my 2003 valve cover and vacuum line are ok. hoping for a cheap fix with cleaned ports, new port gaskets and isolater bolts. bolts from ford canada are 15.00 each here. lol. Any help appreciated, thx.

why will the oil still be getting in after the repair? Will the new bolts give way again? Should i spend the extra and buy the kit and replace everything included?.or is the cheap route ok.Hoping to only have to do this job once. Finally should i notice an improvement with acceration, as it feels a little sluggish right now. Sorry for all the questions and thank-you all for any replies. cheers.

It's been a while, but I remember that the valve cover was one part of the problem. This is just me, but if going through the process to replace the inner components why not replace the outer ones too. Though the cover is pricey it finishes off the recommended fix discussed in the TSB.

The vacuum leak detected is really minor. On my vehicle I saw no change in performance. But that was back then. Now with 120k miles on it, it's not as peppy as it once was.

Make sure all your vacuum hoses and tubes are in good repair. Pay special attention to the PVC and its tube and end fittings.

why will the oil still be getting in after the repair? Will the new bolts give way again? Should i spend the extra and buy the kit and replace everything included?.or is the cheap route ok.Hoping to only have to do this job once. Finally should i notice an improvement with acceration, as it feels a little sluggish right now. Sorry for all the questions and thank-you all for any replies. cheers.

It's been a while, but I remember that the valve cover was one part of the problem. This is just me, but if going through the process to replace the inner components why not replace the outer ones too. Though the cover is pricey it finishes off the recommended fix discussed in the TSB.

The vacuum leak detected is really minor. On my vehicle I saw no change in performance. But that was back then. Now with 120k miles on it, it's not as peppy as it once was.

Make sure all your vacuum hoses and tubes are in good repair. Pay special attention to the PVC and its tube and end fittings.
thanks again for replying. I just bought the van 2 weeks ago. It drove fine the 1st week., then a little stutter at hwy speeds and now it feels a little sluggish and sometimes stalls on me. I realize that there could be so many reasons for this and I will read the threads like crazy. 171 and 174 come up so i thought i"ll start there and do the tsb procedure. will check fuel pressure and all vacuum lines and etc and hopefully resolve this. Have u heard of the tsb repair fixing stalling or sluggish motors?. If it only kills the cel codes 171,174, then perhaps i should work on the stalling problem 1st. cheers

I haven't seen anything about it fixing stalling problems. Once you get done checking fuel system and pressures check these things: 1) There's a solenoid on the top of the throttle valve (can't remember its name, but you can see the bottom of it in the 7th image - top left corner of image) Clean it! I should have replaced mine years ago... I just keep cleaning it. If you can't then replace it. Listen for vacuum leaks too. Check the EGR system. Finally, check the DPFE (see 1st picture, green box). If yours is metal replace it with the plastic one. The metal ones are lousy.

thanks again for replying. I just bought the van 2 weeks ago. It drove fine the 1st week., then a little stutter at hwy speeds and now it feels a little sluggish and sometimes stalls on me. I realize that there could be so many reasons for this and I will read the threads like crazy. 171 and 174 come up so i thought i"ll start there and do the tsb procedure. will check fuel pressure and all vacuum lines and etc and hopefully resolve this. Have u heard of the tsb repair fixing stalling or sluggish motors?. If it only kills the cel codes 171,174, then perhaps i should work on the stalling problem 1st. cheers

been fighting this for 12 years some how i seem to pass the smog with several replacments and my scan tool. i some how think the MAP sensor is the problem as i replaced it twice but always with a rebuilt one. one suggestion was to unplug the sensor , i did and the motor still ran great so is this a positive solution as there was no change plugged or unplugged. however i know that can't run the vehicle unplugged forever as codes 113 & 102 appear than have to be cleared. what i'm saying is does this do a positive fix. i spent so much time and money with repair stations & ford and the same codes always come back. buy the way i have the correct LH valve cover and the manifold gaskets have been replaced but never went any further for the isolator bolts and & port cleaning ect. 171&174 always come back. (stumped?)

Sorry to hear of your difficulty. I suspect the isolator bolts are at fault and have been all along. They should have been replaced when the intake gaskets were done.

Sorry to hear of your difficulty. I suspect the isolator bolts are at fault and have been all along. They should have been replaced when the intake gaskets were done.

That's exactly correct. The isolator bolts are the failure item, the gaskets are just replaced as you remove and replace the bolts. The original bolts had an issue on the head of the bolt where a rubber/plastic material would soften over time due to oil migration. The softening caused the original torque to loosen and thus an air leak would be introduced. Replacing only the gaskets w/o changing the bolts would not provide a long term cure but could have a temporary positive effect due to the new gasket.

BTW - My isolator bolt DIY job is still functioning perfectly 4 years and ~50K miles later...

HEY THANKS GUYS FOR THE MORALE BOOST, REALLY MAKES ME WANT TO GET AT THIS PUPPY( LIKE THIS WEEK). knowing solutions is always positive results soon!

did the dorman repair kit to void 171-174 then after a code came up 0305 # 5 misfire. like all the mind boggling stuff i had to go threw to eventually find this forum. (great help, by the way thanks!)i had to now go threw it with the 305 code. checked plug, wire, coil,,thought about injectors. then, after a compression check, found out no compression. buddy hooked up air line to #5 and realized and heard the air coming threw the head gasket. really?! thought maybe it was valve seals or rings....hopefully this is it. wondering if i should do the other head while everythings off again.....any thoughts....can you relate?

Thanks for the help guys. I just replaced the gaskets on the isolator bolts and both the 171 and 174 codes and my engine stumbling at idle all disappeared! 200 miles so far....