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Codes 171 & 174 TSB # 03-16-1 update


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DRW1000
04-11-2005, 03:22 PM
I would suggest that as long as it is not "melting" the plenum it should be okay.

DRW1000
04-11-2005, 03:52 PM
Don't forget to clean the EGR ports. I was just thinking that gasoline might be a good cleaner.

I was wondering if the reason it is suggested not to clean the throttle body have more to do with the "plastic" plenum than the throttle body itself.

When I did my isolator bolts I noticed that my EGR ports were not very dirty. About 3 months ago I sprayed throttle body cleaner into my EGR intake intake thinking it may clean it. I wonder if it did any good.

Dave 29
04-11-2005, 07:38 PM
thanks again drw1000 for all your help..
I got it done ....everything went fairly well I had trouble with the spark plugs what a pain....
bad design if you ask me...
taking the cowl off was easy enough...though I had a cliip snap on the splash guard....
I also had 1 bolt on the plenum seem to not tighten enough..I was scared to break it and I dont think it was stripped but I torqued them to about 10 to 15 ft lbs...I think thats what was suggested...
thanks again to pcitizen !!
without your website I dont know if I would have tried this ....hopefully it will run good for a while now....
cya
Dave

DRW1000
04-11-2005, 08:40 PM
Glad to help Dave from London. I'm in Mississauga so we are pretty much neighbours.

I think you are now the resident expert (having most recently done the work)

Yeah those plugs were a pain in the arse. At least they weren't seized. That was my biggest worry.

Did you replace the rubber seals too? Were you amazed at the pools of oil in the plenum? How were your EGR ports? Did you bother with the valve cover and Fuel regulator hose? (I didn't bother with the valve cover and my regulator hos was tight.)

Dave 29
04-11-2005, 09:33 PM
There was alot of oil on top of the isolator bolts...
I did replace the 6 port seals and the top half seal gasket but not the valve cover....it was around $100.00 kind of a ripoff I think....not sure if I will replace it or not...
the worst part was not knowing what to clean everything with, I didnt want to use anything that will corode the gaskets or bolts etc...
some of the vacuum lines were hard to get at also...
cya
Dave
Glad to help Dave from London. I'm in Mississauga so we are pretty much neighbours.

I think you are now the resident expert (having most recently done the work)

Yeah those plugs were a pain in the arse. At least they weren't seized. That was my biggest worry.

Did you replace the rubber seals too? Were you amazed at the pools of oil in the plenum? How were your EGR ports? Did you bother with the valve cover and Fuel regulator hose? (I didn't bother with the valve cover and my regulator hos was tight.)

crsticken
06-29-2005, 10:09 PM
My windstar is a 3.0. Is the TSB 03-16-1 the same as the 3.8 or does p0171/174 mean something totally different for me?

DRW1000
06-30-2005, 08:12 AM
Well the 171/174 means that you have a lean condition on both banks. The same as any OBD11 vehicle. However the root cause is most likely different. The TSB does not apply to your vehilce (as far as i know).

I would suspect any or all of the following:
-low fuel pressure
-faulty MAF readings
-Intake Leak
-Vacuum leak

I will double check the TSB tonight to ensure that the 3.0 is not covered but I am 98% sure it does not.

kitch
07-01-2005, 10:32 AM
I have a 1998 windstar GL with 180000 km on it. I have had no trouble with it to now and by the sounds of it I am lucky. I am getting codes of P0171 system adaptive fuel too lean bank #1, P1131 lack of HO2S switches-sensors indicate lean, P0133 upstream heated O2 sensor circuit slow response bank #1, P0306 cylinder #6 misfire detected. I have tested EGR valve, DPFE, TPS, MAF, VSS, IAV, these tested fine to the haynes book. I have also changed fuel filter, upper intake gaskets, upstream O2 sensor bank #1, plugs, plug wires, coil pack, pcv and hose for pcv. I have brought it to two garages and they both say the head gasket. I did my own compression test and all the front cylinders read 115 to 125psi. I get good compression on the front side but #6 cylinder misfires. At idle I can pull off #6 and #5 plug wire with no real reaction from the engine (one at a time) when I pull #4 plug wire off, the engine drops idle to almost a stall. The garages did not do a leak down test so how do they know it is the head gasket. This all stared when at a stop the engine would rev up to 1200 rpm then slow down to idle and it has got to when turning a corner it stalls. I changed the O2 bank one sensor 1 the other day and the cel is still off. But I still have spark knock. I was wondering does that tsb apply to the 3.8L 1998. I have changed the gaskets for the match between the upper and lower intake but not the isolator bolts. I also borrowed a vacuum leak tester best thing invented. It pointed me in the general vicinity. So I started reaching in behind the upper intake towards fire wall. I reach along and hit the evr and the engine reved up. I don't know if it is the evr or the vacuum lines. I am wondering if I should change the dpfe, isolator bolts, valve cover if needed and the lower intake gasket. If the valve cover is the new style would the lower intake gasket be the new one or is there a way to tell. Sorry about the long post.

DRW1000
07-01-2005, 02:33 PM
Well the 171/174 means that you have a lean condition on both banks. The same as any OBD11 vehicle. However the root cause is most likely different. The TSB does not apply to your vehilce (as far as i know).

I would suspect any or all of the following:
-low fuel pressure
-faulty MAF readings
-Intake Leak
-Vacuum leak

I will double check the TSB tonight to ensure that the 3.0 is not covered but I am 98% sure it does not.

okay verified.......................The TSB does NOT include the 3.0 l engine.

kitch
07-03-2005, 10:53 AM
I checked everything over this weekend and I am still puzzled. The TSB is there one for the 98. My valve cover has the hole in it what else has to be changed. My engine has pinging, missfire and rough idle.

12Ounce
07-03-2005, 11:11 AM
1. Double check to make sure you don't have crossed plug wires. Do you have hi-voltage leaks from cables?
2. Vacuum leaks. Isolate as much "vacuum load" from the intake manifold that you can to see if idle improves.
3. Using electronics cleaner, clean the MAF and IAT sensors in the intake air stream.

kitch
07-03-2005, 11:50 AM
I have changed plugs on that cylinder with one that is firing. I have also changed injectors with on that is working still the same missfire on #6. I have changed plug wires and coil pack. O2 sensor Bank 1 sensor 1. Cleaned egr ports check Maf, iac, tps, dpfe, egr valve, evr they are all working with in parameters set by the haynes book. I was wondering if I can close of the vacuum lines to the upper intake manifold and see if it runs better. I think I have a vacuum leak in behind I can here a faint whistle. I have sprayed carb cleaner and ether back there it changed rpm once but I can not get it to do it again to pin point the leak. I want to try isolating each vacuum line one at a time to see if I can make the whistle stop.

12Ounce
07-03-2005, 12:04 PM
Try plugging off the EVR solenoid valve. This device sucks in a little atmosphere to regulate a vacuum signal to the EGR valve. Could be its sucking too much atmosphere.

kitch
07-03-2005, 02:54 PM
I ran into something very strange today. I bought oil stabilizer fuel treatment. I put all that in and when I got home I tried something. When the cel started to flash I played around with #5 and #6 fuel injector connectors. I took #6 off no difference then took #5 off engine drop a little. Then I put #6 on #5 no difference. Then I put #6 back on and was playing with it with #5 off. All of a sudden #6 started to fire after about 30 sec. Then I put #5 on the engine would run on all 6 for 15 sec then die off again. #6 missfiring again. Has anyone had this problem if so what was it.

12Ounce
07-03-2005, 04:31 PM
Have you listened to the injectors using a short length of hose? Sounds to me like you are close to finding the problem.

kitch
07-03-2005, 04:47 PM
Yes each injector is clicking. I was thinking would the fuel pressure increase when disconnecting one of the injectors. Which way does the fuel run to #1 cylinder, #2, #3, #6, #5, #4, or reverse. When I create suction on the fuel pressure regulator nothing happens the engine does not rev up or down. Is something supposed to happen. The only other thing is that the egr valve is partly opened even though there is no vacuum at idle maybe the diaphragm is not closing all the way?

12Ounce
07-03-2005, 10:51 PM
The firing (and injector) order for all Windstars is: 1-4-2-5-3-6.

I don't know what to expect when vacuum is applied to fuel regulator.

The EGR should be closed by a internal spring. The diaphragm opens it. Sounds like yours is sticking, or has a burned valve seat. Either case is unusual.

doublecurious
07-04-2005, 03:09 PM
How do I find out the codes on my 99 Windstar SEL? What do the acronyms stand for that you all were using.

Thanks

DRW1000
07-04-2005, 05:30 PM
The codes from an OBD11 vehicle need to be read via a code reader. They are fairly inexpensive ($100 or so). Whenever your CEL (Check Engine Light) illuminates a code reader is required as the first step to diagnosing and repairing the problem.

OBD11 - On Board Diagnostics 2nd generation. All cars sold in NA from 1996 onward have to be OBD11 compatible vehicles. The PCM (Powertrain Control Module) continuoulsy monitors a number of sensors. It uses this data to provided optimun operating parameters and adjusts things such as ignition timing, fuel charge timing, Air/fuel ratio, EGR feedback....

It senses parameters such as RPM, intake air flow, Air temperature, % complete combustion, %O2 in the exhaust and many others.

The CEL lighting is an indication that one or more of the sensors is reading something that can not be compensated for or too out of range. This is an indication that your vehicle is not running at optimum and is most likely using more fuel and perhaps is emitting unacceptable emiisions.

Some of the Acronyms in this thread are:

EGR - exhaust gas recirculation
DPFE - Delta pressure feedback exhaust (egr?)
EVR - EGR vacuum regulator
PCM - Powertrain control module

kitch
07-04-2005, 08:23 PM
I am still having problems understanding why would #6 start firing when #5 is unplugged? Then stop when #5 was plugged back in.

DRW1000
07-05-2005, 07:57 AM
just a guess kitch but is it possible that #5 and #6 share some branch of the fuel injector circuits and the load of the bad one prevents the good "sister" injector to stop.

I am suggesting this without looking at any diagrams so it is a complete guess.

kitch
07-05-2005, 07:24 PM
I will have to take my meter and check eack one then take #5 off and see if #6 increases. I will also reference #4 since it is the one that is firing normal. Thank you for the suggestion.

wiswind
07-07-2005, 09:14 PM
Kitch,
If you have the same fuel system as I do on my '96.....there is a return line to the gas tank.
There is a fuel pressure regulator that is mounted on the fuel rail......on the passenger side. The fuel pressure regulator has a vaccum line to it.
I would guess the answer to your question of whether the fuel pressure would increase with 1 less injector firing.....would be "NO"....provided that the engine speed stays the same. This is because the pressure regulator will compensate for any change in fuel flow into the engine. The fuel pressure will be at a minimum at idle....as the vaccum applied to the regulator is at the maximum.
Under higher engine speeds.....the vaccum will be lower.....which will cause the regulator to increase the fuel pressure. The idea behind the vaccum line to the regulator is to increase the fuel pressure under higher engine load / speed.

kitch
07-08-2005, 05:02 PM
Wiswind,

Then would it be true if my fuel pressure regulator is malfunctioning, it might affect the amount of fuel into each injector by affecting the pressure. I am wondering because when I take #5 electrical connector off, #6 starts firing when I put #5 on #6 starts misfiring. Things that make you go hmmmm or crazy which ever comes first.

pcitizen
07-08-2005, 05:57 PM
I'm with DRW1000 on this one. It seems that the load of #5 and 6 is too much for the injector drivers. The injector coils on my 2000 Windstar have about 13.8 ohms of resistance each. They draw about .9 Amp or consume about 13 Watts when energized. Check your injector coils for similar ohm values. They should be around 13.5 to 14 ohms as well. Obtain a 10 and 5 ohm resistor from Radio Shack. Get 10 watt ones. Hook them in series and then across the connector for #5. Connect number 6 to the injector. Start the engine. Detach and reattach the resistor to see if the engine speed changes. Then do the same for #6 with the resistors and with #5 attached. If engine speed doesn't change I would suspect one or more bad injectors for 5 and 6. If it does change, I would suspect the injector drivers.

kitch
07-08-2005, 08:03 PM
It is more than likely the drivers then because I changed the injector from #6 with #4 and still #6 was misfiring. I have a lot of things to check this weekend and will let you know how it goes. Question, this is my wife's van I don't drive it to often or fill it. Today was the first time in a long time that I have filled it. It was on an 1/8 of a tank. When I opened the gas cap there was a large suction/venting sound that came. The gas tank was either low or high pressure, is this normal?

pcitizen
07-08-2005, 09:55 PM
The vapor purging systems will cause this rushing air sound. I have never experienced this myself, but my wife says her van (2000 Windstar) does this sometimes when it is hot outside. She explained that it seems be blowing a bit of air out though. She did say that she is not sure. On a side note, I've heard - hear and there - that it is better for the in tank pump to keep the fuel level above 1/2 tank. This ensures the pump stays submerged which allows for continuous cooling and lubrication from the fuel.

kitch
07-12-2005, 04:47 AM
I check a few things this weekend and the injectors are fine and they are being feed the same as #4 cylinder. I took #4 off and left #5 and #6 on the engine dropped rpm. Then after about 15 to 20 sec the engine rpm climbed back up. I am guessing but the computer is adjusting to me taking #4 off. I kind of figured out that I have a vacuum like. I can hear a faint high-pitched whistle sound from the drive seat when I give the pedal a quick pulse. I have sprayed everything under the sun around in there but can't make engine rev up or down. Does anyone have any Ideas about where it could be if your hearing it inside, driver side, but not under the hood????

pcitizen
07-12-2005, 04:00 PM
Sure. Check the Power Brake Booster. These are vacuum operated devices. If yours is leaking it may here it inside the vehicle. Here's a test. Find the vacuum line for the PB Booster. Disconnect it from the booster and plug the end. Be careful when you disconnect this hose. The fitting on the booster is plastic and may be a bit brittle due to high temps under the hood. Once disconnected and plugged. Start the vehicle. Get inside and listen for the hissing. If it stopped change the booster. If it is still present we will have to look else where. BTW: With the PB Booster disconnected stopping the vehicle will likely take two feet and and firm grip on the steering wheel. I recommend that the vehicle not be driven at all when the hose is disconnected.

kitch
07-13-2005, 04:45 AM
Would anyone know if a lean condition on bank #1 would cause a misfire on #6 cylinder, or are they two separate things? I will have to try the brake booster today when I get a chance. Thanks for the tip. Every where I look there is no talk of #6 misfire and lean on bank #1 only.

kitch
07-23-2005, 08:30 PM
Well update time, I just finished the lower intake gasket on the 3.8L windstar. It ran excellent firing on all 6 cylinders for about 3 min from cold start. Then it started to misfire on #6 again. I could here a high pitched whistle but could not find it. I was pretty tired so I got pissed off and left it over night and started it again in the morning. Same thing happened but this time I listened for the whistle at the start and it was not there as soon as the whistle came the engine started to act up. I kind of pinpointed the sound to driver side just inside the wheel well. You can really here it from the wheel well but you really have to strain to hear it from the top. I looked all over and sprayed everything to see if I could make engine do something but nothing. I think it is a gasket because the engine runs great until it warms up a bit but where I do not know. Does anyone have an idea. I replaced IAC gasket, egr valve gasket, throttle body gasket, lower/upper intake manifold gaskets, valve cover gaskets, and replaced the fuel pressure regulator.

pcitizen
07-24-2005, 04:29 PM
It could also be some emissions device that activates as the engine warms up. Here's something that has worked for me. Get a length of vacuum hose - about 6 feet of it and a wooden dow. The dow should be about 18 inches long and around 1/4" in dia. A long screw driver works too. Tape one end of the hose to the dow so about an inch of the hose extends beyond the end. Use the dow as a wand to help move the hose end around without fear of burns. Place the other end tightly against your best ear. With the engine running, probe around with the dow while keeping it away from moving parts. This will help you pin point the hissing sound.

kitch
07-24-2005, 05:42 PM
Thanks for the idea pcitizen I will have to try that.

chasealley
01-22-2007, 08:22 AM
The hiss you hear in the driver's side fender is normal and not related to your poor running problem. I believe all Windstars of that vintage have it. Mine does and I used a stethescope toi find it. I was able to peek inside the fender and see that the intake for the air breather jst terminates inside the fender. That's right. It goes into the fender and all that is there is a piece of flanged tubing. The proximity to the driver and the placement in the empty cavity make it a poor design from a sound standpoint.

Anyway, the hiss is nothing to worry about as far as I know. It gets louder when the engine is under load like when I turn the steering wheel or immediately after starting and then goes away. Try turning your steering wheel for fun and see if you have the same noise. Some do, some don't.

LeeD383
01-26-2007, 05:37 PM
I have a question on Recalibration of the PCM as mentioned in the TSB. Since I did the 171/174 fix myself, I wasn't able to do the recalibration. Is this necessary? Can any shop do it?

My van still pings under load, but the OBD codes have not come back since I did the fix.

Lee

busboy4
01-26-2007, 08:26 PM
I have a question on Recalibration of the PCM as mentioned in the TSB. Since I did the 171/174 fix myself, I wasn't able to do the recalibration. Is this necessary? Can any shop do it?

My van still pings under load, but the OBD codes have not come back since I did the fix.

Lee

Hi
I asked a similar question when I did the bolt fix on a couple of vans. The consensus was that recalibration was likely unnecessary as it was primarily a timing tweak to deal with the lean condition - which is what the replacement parts in the TSB should address (on one of the vans I worked, a '99, there was a faded sticker under the hood that I believe indicated a re-calibration had been done. I was doing the isolator bolt fix in response to the 171/174 codes anyway, so there you go). As to who can do it: I would say that it would be a dealer only type thing.

By the way, are you sure you are hearing ping, and not rattling of the upper intake baffle? I worked on a 2000 with 171/174 that was quiet before the fix and rattled like crazy after. I had to pull off the upper and RTV the baffle as has been detailed quite a bit on this forum.

Best of luck

huskerdooo
02-02-2007, 06:54 PM
I believe I agree on your statement.

I paid Ford 75 bucks to reprogram my pcm and it did nothing to help me.

As I stated in another post, I believe they open the limits on the long term fuel trim and retarded the ignition.

With clean egr ports and new isolator bolts and gaskets, I would avoid this extra expense unless one becomes desperate.

bolts 75
02-28-2007, 09:52 PM
Want to thank rider54 for the great site on the 171 /174 codes did the repair 2001 Windstar (should have removed the cowling duh). Replaced port gaskets, isolator bolts, and intake plenum gasket. After it was done, went for a drive then I got a 0401 code and thought o crap I’ll have to replace the DPFE which on the 2001 is apparently behind the plenum. Finally realized I forgot to tighten the gear clamps on the fresh air tube after putting everything together. Tightened them and the reset the code and it’s okay. Again thanks!

6270
03-05-2007, 07:09 PM
Great site... Did the 171/174 repair as per posts on this page. Started up the van and CEL came on. Scanner reveals codes P0113 and P0102. Reset the codes and they reappear at startup. Drove the van and the CEL went out and the van started surging. Did I miss something in the repair proceedure?? thanks:banghead:

busboy4
03-05-2007, 07:18 PM
Great site... Did the 171/174 repair as per posts on this page. Started up the van and CEL came on. Scanner reveals codes P0113 and P0102. Reset the codes and they reappear at startup. Drove the van and the CEL went out and the van started surging. Did I miss something in the repair proceedure?? thanks:banghead:

Hi
Check that you re-attached the electrical for the mass airflow/intake air temp sensors on the "accordion" hose. I think/hope you will find a dangling electrical connector.

6270
03-06-2007, 02:40 PM
Busboy4...you were absolutely correct in your diagnosis...I hooked one of the connectors wrong and left one hanging....pulled off the accordion hose and immediately saw the mistake I had made. I wish all the fixes were this easy...Just curious, and I have read a lot of posts about double platinum plugs, what difference does it make using DP plugs vs a normal Bosch or AC plugs? Thanks for your assistance :p

busboy4
03-06-2007, 04:04 PM
Busboy4...you were absolutely correct in your diagnosis...I hooked one of the connectors wrong and left one hanging....pulled off the accordion hose and immediately saw the mistake I had made. I wish all the fixes were this easy...Just curious, and I have read a lot of posts about double platinum plugs, what difference does it make using DP plugs vs a normal Bosch or AC plugs? Thanks for your assistance :p

Happy to help. I'll defer your plug question to Wiswind and the others as I cannot give a definitive answer. There has been much discussion here if you search on sparkplugs.

Best

dde2
03-10-2007, 02:57 PM
Hello,

New to the forum, but have lurked the past few weeks to find the problem with my 2000 Windstar. I had the EGR / Lean Bank codes and have just completed the iso bolt upgrade with the help of this board and the excellent instructions linked to in this thread. The codes are now gone (For now at least.) but I have what I think is the plenum knock. When I push down on it the noise goes away. While I had the top off I cleaned it out but didn't see any clips or that it was in two pieces as some posters have mentioned there was nothing loose in there that I could find. Any Ideas?

BTW, I found a complete kit for the repair on Ebay for under $100 incl. shipping, it included all the gaskets ( Including a couple I didn't even need) A new valve cover, the two vacuum lines and the new iso bolts. It isn't original Ford parts, but then again, Ford parts were the problem to start with anyway.

jemarmac
03-12-2007, 12:52 PM
Hello,
I'm a newbie on this awesome forum. I have a 2000 Ford Windstar and have these problem error codes. I found tons of information and attempted to fix the problem this past weekend. All was going good except for 1 plenum cover bolt. The bolt just "spins" I've tried everything from using Vise Grips, WD40 with no success. I was attempted to drill the bolt but decided not to. Has anyone had this problem? Any tips to get this bolt off? I had to put back the cowl and replaced the bolts so I can still drive the van. Any help is much appreciated.
thanks,
JM

veerg
03-22-2007, 10:12 AM
Has any one used the kit offered on ebay.
One dealer sells it for USD $79 + shipping. Another for $99 + shipping. They seems to be the same. I got the first one yesterday. Seem to be made in China. The bolts do have the new green rubber on them.
Just checking to see if the parts used by other people were made in China too.....Thanks.......and thanks to pcitizen for the procedure.

dde2
03-26-2007, 07:08 AM
I got the $79 kit. Everything went fine, My check engine light has since come back on but I haven't had a chance to check the codes yet so I don't know if it is the same or a new problem.

mikemikemike
03-29-2007, 08:40 PM
I used the most excellent web site (http://leckemby.net/windstar/windstar01.html (http://leckemby.net/windstar/windstar01.html)) to fix my 2001 Windstar. I got the parts from the Ford Dealer. Started to take apart the engine, got to the throttle cable part and then got scared - no way I was gonna mess with those. I couldn't get to the gaskets under everything.

So, I ONLY replaced the 8 bolts with their green sleeves and then put everything back together. Didn't change any of the gaskets - didn't use a torque wrench, either. Been 2000 miles and no communistic check engine light has come on yet !

I found taking the plenum thing off wasn't that hard. Just slightly pushed up on the cowling with a long broom stick (used front of radiator as a fulcrum) with my left leg while I lifted the plenum up and rotated it clockwise.

mikpel@hotmail.com NH

road_rascal
03-29-2007, 10:22 PM
I found taking the plenum thing off wasn't that hard. Just slightly pushed up on the cowling with a long broom stick (used front of radiator as a fulcrum) with my left leg while I lifted the plenum up and rotated it clockwise.

mikpel@hotmail.com NH

:eek: :eek: :eek: Yikes. I hope you didn't bend the wiper motor arms :lol: .

pperrichetti
04-05-2007, 04:30 PM
I am the owner of a 2001 Ford Windstar LX. The check engine light came on at about 78,000 miles. I checked the OBD and retrieved codes P0171 and P0174. I thoroughly cleaned the throttle body and MAF sensor. I cleared the codes. It took about one month, and the codes are back. I have read it could be from the intake manifold runner control, or TSB 3-16-1. Is there any way to narrow it down? My extended warrany expired at 75,000 miles. I never had a problem with the check engine light until now.

mikemikemike
04-06-2007, 06:49 AM
I am the owner of a 2001 Ford Windstar LX. The check engine light came on at about 78,000 miles. I checked the OBD and retrieved codes P0171 and P0174. I thoroughly cleaned the throttle body and MAF sensor. I cleared the codes. It took about one month, and the codes are back. I have read it could be from the intake manifold runner control, or TSB 3-16-1. Is there any way to narrow it down? My extended warrany expired at 75,000 miles. I never had a problem with the check engine light until now.

Follow this (http://leckemby.net/windstar/windstar01.html (http://leckemby.net/windstar/windstar01.html))
Just replace a few gaskets and those bolts with the big plastic sleeves and the light code goes away. It is not the MAF. I tried that also and the light went out for a few hundred miles only.

huskerdooo
04-06-2007, 06:31 PM
Hi,

I have used the kit. Most everything was ok. But Beware!

Do not use the PCV valve. The one in my kit was bad and cause SEVERE amounts of oil being sucked into the intake. Blue smoke was coming out of the exhaust big time.

Switched back to my original pcv and all was fine after that.

cleveman
04-11-2007, 01:31 PM
I used the most excellent web site (http://leckemby.net/windstar/windstar01.html (http://leckemby.net/windstar/windstar01.html)) to fix my 2001 Windstar. I got the parts from the Ford Dealer. Started to take apart the engine, got to the throttle cable part and then got scared - no way I was gonna mess with those. I couldn't get to the gaskets under everything.

So, I ONLY replaced the 8 bolts with their green sleeves and then put everything back together. Didn't change any of the gaskets - didn't use a torque wrench, either. Been 2000 miles and no communistic check engine light has come on yet !

I found taking the plenum thing off wasn't that hard. Just slightly pushed up on the cowling with a long broom stick (used front of radiator as a fulcrum) with my left leg while I lifted the plenum up and rotated it clockwise.

mikpel@hotmail.com NH

I'm getting ready to do this repair myself, as well, and I must say I too get a little queezy when thinking about messing with the throttle / cruise control cables.

Can someone who has done this before either a) tell me that an intelligent, fairly smart guy can do that without much risk, or b) tell me that I can just pop off the top of the plenum, replace the isolator bolts and put it all back together and still solve the problem?

frostie
04-11-2007, 01:59 PM
Absolutely easy to do yourself. It is a 1 to 2 hour job that I did in my driveway. I also did not do the gaskets. Been about 5000 miles now without a CEL or stalling at idle.

cleveman
04-20-2007, 09:29 PM
Applied the TSB today following the instructions on http://leckemby.net/windstar/windstar01.html... VERY helpful! Thanks!

A few comments / observations FWIW:
- took me almost exactly 4 hours... I didn't really expect it to take that long, in spite of what everyone else said, but I took it slow and had some trouble here and there - especially getting the Valve Cover off...
- I didn't take the plenum completely off / out - I gave up after trying to get all the vacuum lines off the back of it and just lifted it up (after removing the isolator bolts) to clean around the intake ports and change out the gaskets on the bottom of the plenum.
- I did take the cowling most of the way off... as mentioned it took a lot of time but made it a lot easier to get to the bolts on the back of the plenum, get the plenum off and back on, etc.
- I got all the parts as recommended on the site and installed them all - I got them at the local Ford dealer and paid $204... I think I got screwed on the price - maybe the isolator bolts? They charged me $8 for each bolt - is that right?

Anyway - the engine idles a LOT more smoothly, isn't knocking like it was before, and the CEL hasn't (yet) come back.

JASONGIBSON
07-07-2007, 10:22 AM
For about the last year and half my check engine codes 171 and 174 would come on every week. I had the local mechanic replace the gaskets,seals, and bolts in the engine for around $130.00. After about two weeks the codes were back, this was getting very frustrating. I decided to try another direction. I started using the 93 octane gas from SHELL that cleans the gunky buildup in the engine. After two or three weeks the check engine light stopped coming on. I have now been six months with no check engine codes. Thank you Shell for quality gas.

Triple G
09-11-2007, 01:38 PM
Hello all,
I am new to your fine forum, and I have the same issues with Codes 171 & 174. I have looked around alot throught this thread and have gotten great information. My Quick question is does all of this also apply to a 1998 Windstar with 3.8L engine? I see references to 1999-2003, but I have the same problem and intend to perform the repair proceedure myself if you think my 1998 has the same problem. If not, what should I begin to look for?
Thanks in advance
Guy

wallyj34
10-31-2007, 10:30 AM
Hello all,
I am new to your fine forum, and I have the same issues with Codes 171 & 174. I have looked around alot throught this thread and have gotten great information. My Quick question is does all of this also apply to a 1998 Windstar with 3.8L engine? I see references to 1999-2003, but I have the same problem and intend to perform the repair proceedure myself if you think my 1998 has the same problem. If not, what should I begin to look for?
Thanks in advance
Guy


Same thing here is this for the 1998 ford windstar 3.8L? I am all gung ho to try this but just gotta know if it is for this model.. Thanks in advance

huskerdooo
10-31-2007, 11:09 AM
Same thing here is this for the 1998 ford windstar 3.8L? I am all gung ho to try this but just gotta know if it is for this model.. Thanks in advance

No, its only applicable to engines 1999 and after.

Your 1998 model should have a metal upper intake manifold. The problem was when in 1999 they went to a cheesy plastic piece of crap to save a few bucks.

But I am not bitter.

wallyj34
10-31-2007, 11:50 AM
Thanks for the response. I have these codes and I am get another codes for a misfire in cylinder 2. Could this be why I am recieving these codes? When you say upper manifold are talking about the black thing on the top of the engin or is this the plenum?

huskerdooo
11-02-2007, 12:24 PM
I would think the misfire would not cause these codes. These codes are for too lean, meaning the 02 sensor sees too much air. I would think a misfire would go the other way.
There are a number of components that can contribute to a lean condition. I have a 99 and I never resolved the issue, even by performing the required bolt fix.
You should have a metal upper intake on your engine, I am not sure I would call it a plenum. Regardless, you should not have the bolt issue on your vehicle. The bolt issue is due to isolators needed to bolt the cheesy plastic intake on the metal lower portion.

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