car battery??
na441
12-20-2004, 07:25 PM
Ok Ok I know I messed up real bad but I took my battery out of my car to bring it in the house to charge it . after the battery was charged I put it back in the car but didn't connect the poles right . I put the pos. on the neg. and the neg on the pos. to my defence it was dark . after noticing I tried putting it the right way but was getting nothing at all for power . Did I just kill the battery again or did I fry the computer in the car. ps does anybody know what a computer costs for a 96 camry if this is what I fried.
theFREAKnasty82
12-20-2004, 10:02 PM
yeah, sounds like you just fried your pcm; they run you around $1500; had to replace one on my mothers 95 camry.
AWP9521
12-21-2004, 05:22 PM
yeah, sounds like you just fried your pcm; they run you around $1500; had to replace one on my mothers 95 camry.
Not only PCM, but anything else in the car that is electronic and has power available to it even with the key off might of gotten fried too in the process like the radio memory and stuff like that. Electronics really hate getting the voltage fed the wrong way.
Not only PCM, but anything else in the car that is electronic and has power available to it even with the key off might of gotten fried too in the process like the radio memory and stuff like that. Electronics really hate getting the voltage fed the wrong way.
na441
12-21-2004, 08:28 PM
ok figured out that I burnt about 4 fuses one of them a 100amp. but replaced them all and car was trying to start but wouldn't then rechecked the fuses and the one for(multiport fuel injection system/sequential multiport fuel injection system,starting system was one I had already changed was burnt again. so maybe this is my only problem???? I hope like hell . A guy I work with said that these fuses protect the actual computer . any feed back on this would be apreciated..
LMP
12-21-2004, 08:32 PM
COnnecting the battery on reverse polarity applies forward voltage to the alternator diodes and all the battery will drain through the alternator diodes, probably bursting them in the process. THe diodes may stay as a short circuit after that so even if you connect the battery back in correct polarity, you wil have a short. However, YOU WOULD IN ALL CASES HAVE SEEN SPARKS when you have connected the battery in reverse the first time???
ANyway the alternator is probably gone. Disconnect ALL wires I MEAN ALL from the alternator, then use a fresh battery to test the rest...you will make your own conclusions after that.
ANyway the alternator is probably gone. Disconnect ALL wires I MEAN ALL from the alternator, then use a fresh battery to test the rest...you will make your own conclusions after that.
na441
12-22-2004, 07:13 PM
I tried disonnecting all the wires (ithink there is only the 2 that go to the alternator) and then tried to put the fuse that kept blowing back in and it still blew.?????????
na441
12-22-2004, 07:14 PM
is there any way to check if the alternator is dead without starting the car?
LMP
12-23-2004, 12:21 PM
Well if the fuse that blows is not the one that goes to the alternator, then obviously something else went wrong. Can you identify the function of that fuse? This is not a happy sign alas.
2nd, yes some test can be done on the alternator.
....
By the way, I toild you before that the voltage regulator was inside the alternator.....I'm not so sure of that. All GM Delco alternators have the regulator built-in, but not CHrysler that I know....I'm just not sure here. Chrysler regulators for years looked lie a little black box just a little smaller than a pack of cigarettes with a triangular plug...look for that and tell me....
The best is to be able to connect direct to the alternator so you avoid any other possible links to the wires that are connected to it and that would make the test confusing.
Do you ahve a digital multimeter with a "diode test" range? This is the best tool.
Main test to the alternator is done on the large connector that leads to the 100A fuse.
If a test on low ohm range or diode test range between large connector and ground reads 0 or near zero, then you have a shorted diode pack...ENd of the test.
If you have an ohm reading like 40 or more, then it is nor shorted.
Now the diode test range is the most useful here: you have to test between large connecetor and ground, once with the test leads in one way, then reverse the leads and take another reading.
In one direction,it should read "out of range"...that is no conduction at all.
In the other direction it shoud read around 1.6 volts. If it reads around 0.8 volts, the diode pack is shot again. End of the test.
If reads 1.6, then it means it will CHARGE somewhat, but it does not tell how much it will charge , because there are 3 pairs of diode, and if 1 or 2 pairs are cur off with 1 pair OK it reads 1.6 anyway. So only experience will tell if it keeps with the demand. If you want to know for sure, than a hot test is needed.
If you have tested it is "not short" and you can run the engine with the alternator connected; then the voltage at battery or cigarete lighter should sit near 14 V whatever you turn headlights on or run the heater at full speed. If voltage tapers near or below 12 v when you add heater, lights, wipers, rear defogger, then you have only partial charge and the diode bank again must be replaced. You shoud maintain at least 13 V
Any questions: come back
Bye
2nd, yes some test can be done on the alternator.
....
By the way, I toild you before that the voltage regulator was inside the alternator.....I'm not so sure of that. All GM Delco alternators have the regulator built-in, but not CHrysler that I know....I'm just not sure here. Chrysler regulators for years looked lie a little black box just a little smaller than a pack of cigarettes with a triangular plug...look for that and tell me....
The best is to be able to connect direct to the alternator so you avoid any other possible links to the wires that are connected to it and that would make the test confusing.
Do you ahve a digital multimeter with a "diode test" range? This is the best tool.
Main test to the alternator is done on the large connector that leads to the 100A fuse.
If a test on low ohm range or diode test range between large connector and ground reads 0 or near zero, then you have a shorted diode pack...ENd of the test.
If you have an ohm reading like 40 or more, then it is nor shorted.
Now the diode test range is the most useful here: you have to test between large connecetor and ground, once with the test leads in one way, then reverse the leads and take another reading.
In one direction,it should read "out of range"...that is no conduction at all.
In the other direction it shoud read around 1.6 volts. If it reads around 0.8 volts, the diode pack is shot again. End of the test.
If reads 1.6, then it means it will CHARGE somewhat, but it does not tell how much it will charge , because there are 3 pairs of diode, and if 1 or 2 pairs are cur off with 1 pair OK it reads 1.6 anyway. So only experience will tell if it keeps with the demand. If you want to know for sure, than a hot test is needed.
If you have tested it is "not short" and you can run the engine with the alternator connected; then the voltage at battery or cigarete lighter should sit near 14 V whatever you turn headlights on or run the heater at full speed. If voltage tapers near or below 12 v when you add heater, lights, wipers, rear defogger, then you have only partial charge and the diode bank again must be replaced. You shoud maintain at least 13 V
Any questions: come back
Bye
na441
01-05-2005, 05:22 AM
well got the car back from the garage and it turns out the only thing I fried was the remote car starter ( thank god) anyway thanks to all those who helped
qwerll
09-19-2007, 04:46 PM
i got a problem too, my car was dead so i went to boost it, i accidently hooked up a possitive cable with a negative cable of another car, and tried boosting my car, after that the car didnt start, does anyone know what i should do?
Dawezilla
09-24-2007, 09:04 AM
well got the car back from the garage and it turns out the only thing I fried was the remote car starter ( thank god) anyway thanks to all those who helped
Better than the $1500...:grinyes:
Better than the $1500...:grinyes:
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