Montana secrets for everyone.

I just got some good info.

I have a 2000 Montana, 170K and I have had just about every problem discussed on this forum. In 2004, my bills have totalled over $5000, and that includes doing some of the work myself, and my tranny still has torque converter chatter in Overdrive. It has been rebuilt twice by a joe blow, who I think wrecked it, to the tune of $2500. I had to pay a good mechanic $700.00 to change the selenoid and replace the computer to no avail. I am still fighting with the original mechanic to fix it right. I should have bought an OEM tranny and paid the $400 re & re charge!

I have replaced 75% of the bushings in the front end, plus the tie rods.
I still have a clunking/loose sound on the drivers side when I go over small bumps.

New tires and brakes.

EGR valve was even tough to replace, tilting the engine forward and all. Good thing I did it when I did a tune up, those back plugs suck!

My fuel gauge has moved up and down more than my automatic drivers side window.

My passenger window is slower than molasses.

The steering is starting to stiffen up and eat fluid.

Some of the bearings on the accessories are squeling pretty good.

My alternator has triggered a code a few times, but goes away.

The windshield is cracked and I will have to pay for that. I hear they are expensive compared to others.

Now, my intake gasket is leaking. The job doesn't look that bad, but a friend told me of a little secret.

GM has a "cooling system seal tab" part # 3634621, that apparently will fix minor leaks. This tab is less than $5.00 (so I'm told).

I will be trying this ASAP and let you know if it really works.

Hate to break it to you, but the seal tabs are only a temporary bandaid for a leak.
They will seal minor leaks, but if used incorrectly can cause more damage than good

Thanks for the warning.

Any ideas as to an "easy fix"?

I understand that the upper intake gasket isn't that bad, it is just like changing the plugs in the back, only a little easier.

Its a little more involved than just tilting the motor forward. Thats the easy part. It can be done in a day or two in your garage if you're motivated. Most local shops will charge you $400 or so for the repair, vs 800-1100 at the dealer. I've had pretty good luck with BARS stop leak in mine. Its the pelletized formula stuff. Mine leaks externally a little bit, but no real loss in coolant level in the past 4 months since adding the stop leak.
The bad news is though, if you have 170K miles on your van, its time to break down and get the gasket replaced. Most people have to have them replaced at 60K or less. Mine was replaced under warranty at 60K, and i'll be getting it done again (only with the new spec part) this summer so long as the stop leak holds up. Its only temporary, so its a question of how much longer are you going to own the car and what its worth to you to get it fixed. 400 bucks is alot cheaper than 4000 when your motor dies or camshaft snaps from internal leakage.

The main thing to watch on these is that the gasket will leak internally...coolant mixing with your oil can cause premature failure of your bearings.

I currently have a 2003 Montana with 125,000 k and so far all is fine. However I had a 2000 Montana and we did the "tab" trick at 90,000 km and it held until I traded in the van at 266,000 km. I used 2 tabs.

The windshield is cracked and I will have to pay for that. I hear they are expensive compared to others.
can't you have your insurance company pay for a replacement windshield?

They will, but every claim goes against you. Even a comprehensive.

does anybody know how to reset the brake light on a 2000 montana?

...Hate to break it to you, but the seal tabs are only a temporary bandaid for a leak. They will seal minor leaks, but if used incorrectly can cause more damage than good...

Are these 'tabs' a GM chemical added to the cooling system?

Do they leave a green pond scum-like residue behind that accumulates around the rad cap and in the recovery tank?

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They are made from an organic material, looks like dark sawdust. You are right, it has a scum, but it is more of a brown colour.

The scum that you are finding is Dexcool that has crystalized. The fluid level was allowed to drop to the point where air was introduced into the system. The sealant tabs won't cause as much scumming as what you are likely seeing.

...The fluid level was allowed to drop to the point where air was introduced into the system. ...The sealant tabs won't cause as much scumming as what you are likely seeing....

Thanks for the reply.

To your points:

1) The coolant level in the rad is controlled by the fluid level in the recovery tank. The tank always had sufficient coolant to prevent the entry of air. The rad was always full. I would not / could not draw ANY conclusions based on visual inspection myself until I had the Tech look at it and report. In the end, the evidence would not support the conclusions indicated in the previous post.

If air had entered the system it could only be the result of repairs done by the dealer previously, with the exception of and confirmation by the second shop that performed the flush and fill.

(BTW, I surrendered to common sense and took the van into the shop!)

The Tech who worked on the van this morning, told me he saw nothing unusual in the rad, recovery tank or the cap. The green scum is normal for an aging Dex-Cool / water mix. In his opinion nothing other than Dex-Cool had ever been in the system.

2) Agreed. The scum wasn't excessive, but did give me pause for thought when I first saw it. Being analytical, I wanted to eliminate all the things it might be, but wasn't.

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well i thought the 'secrets to the Montana' was to get rid of it. :)

I have replaced 75% of the bushings in the front end, plus the tie rods.
I still have a clunking/loose sound on the drivers side when I go over small bumps.


how would you characterize your driving style? Lots of city driving? Bumpy roads? lots of curves?
not trying to be smart...but are you a heavy person??