'94 LeSabre water pump changeout
TTCzar
11-29-2004, 01:59 PM
Many thanks to particpants in this forum, saved me at least $300 bucks replacing water pump in my '94 LeSabre.
I overcame my fear of jacking up the engine thanks to the 2x6 wood w/ jack suggestion. Once I got the mount bolts undone (one major bolt removal problem out of seven bolts to remove) the mount came out and went back in suprisingly well.
I think a poster in the PA forum said the worst part for him was cleaning the w/p mount suface of the engine; I agree w/ this. I carefully used a single edge razor blade in one of the paint scraper holders and got most the crud off. The Haynes manual suggested a 3m scrubber pad which w/ a little Gumout carb spray cleaned and shined up the surface quite nicely.
Of course, to balance out the good of the Haynes procedure, they screwed up one IMPORTANT step. My w/p failed becuase the flange on the pump where the pulley bolts to broke off at the end of the w/p shaft. This meant I didn't have to remove (unbolt) the pulley to get it off the pump. That was a bit of back luck. I bet some of you guys know what this meant. After getting the new pump on, I followed the procedure to the letter, I put the engine mounts back on, unjacked the engine, etc. When I went to put the pulley on the new pump, NO GO, engine mount was in the way. Had I needed to remove the pulley from an intact w/p, I would have noticed it doesn't come off w/ mounts on. Since it broke off for me, I had no idea. While at my dealer to pick up a metal bypass hose inlet, I asked when the pulley goes on. They said pulley goes on BEFORE you put the engine mounts on. Soooo, I got to jack up engine and loosen (didn't have to remove) the mounts to get the pulley on. Now everything is great, except for a belt size mystery which I'll describe in another thread.
Thanks to you guys for pointing out the need to replace the PLASTIC bypass hose fitting. I was in a rush, so I dontated $18 bucks to my dealer for the metal replacement. My wife's '90 LeSabre will need it to, so I'll try AutoZone for another one.
I hope this post saves anyone w/ simaliar situation from having to jack engine and play w/ motor mounts more than once!
Thanks again guys.
I overcame my fear of jacking up the engine thanks to the 2x6 wood w/ jack suggestion. Once I got the mount bolts undone (one major bolt removal problem out of seven bolts to remove) the mount came out and went back in suprisingly well.
I think a poster in the PA forum said the worst part for him was cleaning the w/p mount suface of the engine; I agree w/ this. I carefully used a single edge razor blade in one of the paint scraper holders and got most the crud off. The Haynes manual suggested a 3m scrubber pad which w/ a little Gumout carb spray cleaned and shined up the surface quite nicely.
Of course, to balance out the good of the Haynes procedure, they screwed up one IMPORTANT step. My w/p failed becuase the flange on the pump where the pulley bolts to broke off at the end of the w/p shaft. This meant I didn't have to remove (unbolt) the pulley to get it off the pump. That was a bit of back luck. I bet some of you guys know what this meant. After getting the new pump on, I followed the procedure to the letter, I put the engine mounts back on, unjacked the engine, etc. When I went to put the pulley on the new pump, NO GO, engine mount was in the way. Had I needed to remove the pulley from an intact w/p, I would have noticed it doesn't come off w/ mounts on. Since it broke off for me, I had no idea. While at my dealer to pick up a metal bypass hose inlet, I asked when the pulley goes on. They said pulley goes on BEFORE you put the engine mounts on. Soooo, I got to jack up engine and loosen (didn't have to remove) the mounts to get the pulley on. Now everything is great, except for a belt size mystery which I'll describe in another thread.
Thanks to you guys for pointing out the need to replace the PLASTIC bypass hose fitting. I was in a rush, so I dontated $18 bucks to my dealer for the metal replacement. My wife's '90 LeSabre will need it to, so I'll try AutoZone for another one.
I hope this post saves anyone w/ simaliar situation from having to jack engine and play w/ motor mounts more than once!
Thanks again guys.
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