Brake Problem

First I'm new here and want to say Hello.
I have a 1999 E-350 Super Duty Van with 140,000 miles on it. It's got disk brakes all around. I recently resurfaced my front rotors and installed new brake pads. I also decided to "try" and bleed my brakes but now my brake light and ABS light are coming on. What is the correct sequence when bleeding the brakes and how can I correct the problem with my brake lights on the dash.
I was also thinking about getting one of those automatic bleeders that let's you bleed brakes alone but I don't know what or where to buy it. I'd also like to get something that I can use with other vehicles not just my Econoline.

Ford does not require any special bleeding with ABS, EXCEPT that the reservoir MUST NOT get empty and allow air into the system. If that happened, you MUST have it bled at a dealership or other facility that can cycle the ABS valves.

The proper way to bleed a Ford ABS system is to start at the RR > LR > RF > LF. Make SURE you top off the fluid after each wheel, and if your goal is to change out all the fluid, do so at the RR wheel.

Also, It is NOT necessary to "pump" the brake pedal to bleed the system, all you do is get air into it, just let it drain by gravity. Don't misunderstand, you CAN pump the pedal if you have a bleeder hose attached and submurged in brake fluid in a glass container. I made one from a Tea container with a screw-on lid. A piece of clear tubing runs from the bleeder screw to a variable diameter (stepped) nipple screwed into the top of the lid, and a piece of steel tubing is expoxied into the hole at the threaded end of the nipple. It sits about 1/2 inch from the bottom of the jar. Fill hte jar about 1" full of brake fluid, and pump away!

OK, I bled each caliper in the sequence that you mentioned and everything looked OK but my lights are still on. :confused:
Could it be a bad sensor, caliper or Master cylinder? Do you have any other suggestions?
Thanks

The ABS light can illuminate, on some models, if the brake fluid level is low, or the switch is bad.

I have also found, that often the ABS sires do not stay put when you remove the calipers, the retainer twists allowing the sensor wire to rub on the inside edge of the rotor, thus the ABS lamp.

The ABS light can illuminate, on some models, if the brake fluid level is low, or the switch is bad.

I have also found, that often the ABS sires do not stay put when you remove the calipers, the retainer twists allowing the sensor wire to rub on the inside edge of the rotor, thus the ABS lamp.
I'm assuming that you meant "wires" not sires. :biggrin:
OK, so it may have something to do with the wires shorting out or a bad sensor? I'll poke around there again when I get some more time. The brakes basically feel the same as they have always felt and I'm not loosing fluid but I do feel funny driving around with the WARNING LIGHTS on. :uhoh:

Update to the brake light problem:

The reason the ABS light was showing on the dash was because I had a bad speed sensor. The speed sensor is located on top of the read axle and is held in by one bolt. I replaced it and the light is now gone. :smokin:

As far as the brake light warning on the dash.....that was a result of a burnt out "third brake" light bulb - the center light mounted on top rear.

How did you ever track down the ABS light to a bad speed sensor? :rolleyes: