cold transmission problems

I have a 99 GC and have been having problems with the transmission for a while but it is getting worse with the coming of winter. When the transmission is cold, it will not shift from 2nd to 3rd. After driving for a while (1/2 mile) it then warms up and changes. I have changed the fluid (5 quarts) and the filter but still no luck. I am now be quoted prices of 1500 to 2500 to fix if somthing major is wrong. Has anyone else experianced this?

Thanks

Front clutch seals are probably worn

check, recheck, and triple check the tranny fluid level. remember to check it while the jeep is idling and in NEUTRAL

I have checked the fluid continously, and it is always good. In regards to the fronts seals being worn, any ideas on cost to replace?

its kind of expensive because you have to take the trans out.The parts aren't the issue(I spent $15 on mine)The $1500 you were quoted sounds about right,but I would have to say it depends on the shop and the area.

I am kind of dumb (lol), but would a automatic still have front clutch seals?
Thanks

there are a couple of clutch packs inside the trans.The front clutch is the one right behind the front pump on this trans.it's the first one or in the front so I guess thats why they call it the front clutch.The next clutch pack is called the rear clutch,it's behind the front clutch

Hi J2,

There are a couple of threads deeper into the Grand Cherokee section that also address this problem. If you haven't read them, I recommend that you do as they are helpful.

We have a 97 GC with V-8 and about 74k miles. This tranny was rebuilt under warranty at about 10K miles.

A few weeks ago we also were having the shifting when cold problem.

I spoke to a friend who co-owns a tire/repair shop in Kearney, NE. I mentioned the things I read in these threads.

His suggestion was to do a chemical flush of the the tranny, torque converter and replace the filter. It cost about $150. It took a heckuva lot of new fluid. Something about they put this chemical in and drive it a few miles and drain/suck out the chemical...he said if they do not do it right it won't work.

We did what he suggested 3 weeks and 1 Hunting trip ago. Have put on about 600 miles and so far so good. I will keep you posted but so far we are pleased with the results!

Mike :2cents:

Posted by j2arch - 11-19-2004 at 02:47 PMI have a 99 GC and have been having problems with the transmission for a while but it is getting worse with the coming of winter. When the transmission is cold, it will not shift from 2nd to 3rd. After driving for a while (1/2 mile) it then warms up and changes. I have changed the fluid (5 quarts) and the filter but still no luck. I am now be quoted prices of 1500 to 2500 to fix if somthing major is wrong. Has anyone else experianced this?

Thanks

In the transmission industry there is a symptom which is commonly called "Morning Sickness" (mainly found in Ford's). Sounds funny, I know. This is a problem that occurs when the neoprene seals (synthetic rubber which is resistant to hydrocarbon oil and gas) become hard and brittle.

Inside of the direct clutch housing (which is also referred to as the front clutch housing/or drum) there is an aluminum piston. On this piston and in the housing itself there are several neoprene lip seals. This same concept is also found in the forward clutch housing (or also known as the rear clutch housing). I prefer using the term forward and direct because your overdrive clutches are even more to the rear of the trans then (what they call) the rear clutches.

These neoprene lip seals sometimes become hard and brittle. Which as a result causes a loss of line preasure to the respective piston which apply the clutches. After the seals warm up they become soft and pliable again. At which point they can move the travel of the piston to apply the clutches without loss of preasure the way they were originally designed to function.

I have no idea if this is your problem or not. But I do absolutely agree with dksob81, always check the fluid level first. Check the fluid level and quality of the fluid. Usually and in most cases the fluid level and especially the quality of the fluid are always good indicators of any possible internal failure. And always remember (incase you might not be aware of this) transmission fluid expands under heat. So you will get different readings depending upon the temperature of the trans.

I believe Chrysler always recommends checking the level hot at operating temperatures. But I prefer checking the level cold then just compensating for the expansion of the fluid. To many battle scars over the years on my arms from removing transmissions in preparation for rebuilds that were next to hot catalytic converters. Tend more to stand back and look at hot vehicles now and not touch em (LOL).

Best of Luck

Alright, here we go. The transmission was still failing to engage 3rd when first driven. Along with this problem, I also had a problem with the ignition tumbler (where the key is inseted). The key at times would be inserted and could not be turned, either to start (forward) or into accessory (backward). After much movement back and forth (and no, this had nothing to do with the steering lock), the key would finally turn and allow me start the jeep. The key would still not go into accessory position. I left town for the next 14 days and parked the jeep. When I returned, I started the jeep and drove it and noticed the transmission had got worse. That is when I started posting here.

Now to last week. The jeep was now failing to start. The starter would engage, but never fire (only after the second attempt). would it start. I took it to Jeep who said that the fuel pump was shot. So replaced the fuel pump and told them to check and replace the ignition tumblers if needed which they did. (this was Friday).

Today is Monday and I drove the jeep Saturday, Sunday and today and it has not falted at all in shifting (yesterday was 32 degrees when i drove). Could replacing the full pump or the ignition have corrected this problem? Could codes have been reset?

Thanks to all who have or will replied.

Could disconnecting the battery for ignition repair have caused the memory to loose this info and therefore corrected itself? Or could the new transmission fluid finally be getting into the valves (1-1/2 weeks later, 40 miles per day on average)?

Posted by j2arch - 12-06-2004 at 07:12 AMAlright, here we go. The transmission was still failing to engage 3rd when first driven. Along with this problem, I also had a problem with the ignition tumbler (where the key is inseted). The key at times would be inserted and could not be turned, either to start (forward) or into accessory (backward). After much movement back and forth (and no, this had nothing to do with the steering lock), the key would finally turn and allow me start the jeep. The key would still not go into accessory position. I left town for the next 14 days and parked the jeep. When I returned, I started the jeep and drove it and noticed the transmission had got worse. That is when I started posting here.

Now to last week. The jeep was now failing to start. The starter would engage, but never fire (only after the second attempt). would it start. I took it to Jeep who said that the fuel pump was shot. So replaced the fuel pump and told them to check and replace the ignition tumblers if needed which they did. (this was Friday).

Today is Monday and I drove the jeep Saturday, Sunday and today and it has not falted at all in shifting (yesterday was 32 degrees when i drove). Could replacing the full pump or the ignition have corrected this problem? Could codes have been reset?

Thanks to all who have or will replied.

You know that trans holds a total of about 12 quarts of tranny fluid including what's inside the lock-up torque converter. You've mentioned you changed the fuild (5 quarts) which is common for just a basic pan drop and filter change. Once you've finished a basic trans service as mentioned above. If your interested in doing a more do it yourself trans flush. What you would want to do is after you've changed the filter, re-installed the pan (with new gasket of course). Tighten up all pan bolts then add your 5 quarts. Run it, check the level (Chrysler products usually always check in neutral). Shut it off then disconnect the cooler line (one fluid enters the radiator). Shove a hose over the end of the cooler line, insert that hose into some containing device (bucket, empty anit-freeze container). Set your emergency brake, go start it up in neutral and as fluid begins to drain into your container. You in turn add fluid into the dip stick tube. So you've got 5 new quarts in it already. Doing this procedure and another 7 quarts to go (ta da all new fluid = complete tranny flush).

I'm really glad to hear that as of now your problem has gone away (knock on wood). And yes j2arch (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/member.php?u=259672) could be right and what fluid you did change might have loosen a few sticky valves (either governor valve or throttle preasure valve, 1 or 2 out of a 100 cases where I've come across a sticking 2-3 shift valve in the valve body).

But Congrats again, fingers crossed for contined success

Doing this, does it change the 5 qts I already changed (or this a sealed area) and as I change, do I drain then add or add as I change.

Thanks

Posted by j2arch - 12-06-2004 at 08:53 AMDoing this, does it change the 5 qts I already changed (or this a sealed area) and as I change, do I drain then add or add as I change.

Thanks

The 5 original new quarts of fluid you added during the pan service you preformed are now after this amount of time mixed in together with the rest of the fluid.

You can still do this method of which I described. You won't need to pull the trans pan again, theres no need for that. And this procedure is the way we use to do it long before there was a special transmission flushing machine. Same as the $150.00 jobber, except - (minus) the pump/machine. Your allowing the vehicle to act as the pump for you by having the engine running.

Just figure out which cooler line that is going into the radiator is the inbound presure line. Disconnect that cooler line. Attach a hose onto it (slide the cooler line fitting a few inches back from the end (flared end) of the cooler line. Attach a hose that fits snuggly over the flare and a couple of inches down the line. Get yourself a case of good tranny fluid (I use Amsoil trans fluid myself, but $$ awful expensive). Set the emergency brake. Start the engine. And as fuild squirts out into your container. Start filling the trans with new fluid through the dip stick tube.

It's easy, don't pull the pan. Remove the exhaust cooler line (one with presure going into radiator). Start engine, let old fluid pump out as your pouring new fluid in. If you hadn't changed the 5 quarts it's easier to tell when to stop. Every so often you check the discharged old fluid. You'll know when you start to see new fluid being discharged, That's when it's time to stop. Well that indicator and you've probably just added the last of 12 quarts of new fluid lets you know also.

System's all flushed out now. $150.00 bucks minus fluid in your pocket. Congrats, your done.

p.s. Disclaimer ----> If you have serious major existing internal damage to your transmission. This procedure would more than likely help to speed up any possible failure, rather than slow the process down.

Again, best of luck.

i would recommend only using chrysler ATF+4. but we could debate this all day long. you might also consider a flash to the tranny module.

Regardless of which fluid to use msrjeep (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/member.php?u=198436) and (smiles) I agree with you about the debate. Although Amsoil has been highly tested and proven in all model applications for over the past 30 years.

Law enforcement use it, military branches of our government. Again your right, we can debate this all day. To each their own as I always say. But regardless of which fluid used. What are your thoughts concerning the flushing method I described in the above prior post?

And I do agree with you concerning the flash. This is odd that his problem with the trans just seems to have fixed itself and gone away. Maybe it wasn't the 2-3 shift, but the converter clutch applying. The electrical in the ignition fixing that?????

What do you mean by the "flash"

I meant what msrjeep (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/member.php?u=198436) had referenced:

Posted by msrjeep - 12-09-2004 at 12:24 AMi would recommend only using chrysler ATF+4. but we could debate this all day long. you might also consider a flash to the tranny module.

Ok, but I dont understand what this is meant to mean, (you might also consider a flash to the tranny module). Can you help a slow learner out? thanks again

when they flash the TCM, it means to update the software of the Transmission control Module.

Hi All,

Man what an awesome website...autoforum rocks!

Another update on the transmission chemical flush we did 6 weeks ago.

It is 3 weeks (22 days) since I last checked in and the weather is definitely getting colder in Nebraska. SO FAR SO GOOD. No complaints from the wife who has put another 500 miles of in town driving on the truck. It has shifted fine when I drive it so....a big yeah!

I do know that they did some chemical flush and drove the truck with that in there for a few miles...the above home remedy does save the bucks but I wonder if that chemical flush did the trick? I might try the above mentioned method though next time.

I pray our shift problem is solved and won't check into this thread with another shifting update unless it is bad news...so hope you don't see me here.

Happy Holidays Mike

I have a 99 GC and have been having problems with the transmission for a while but it is getting worse with the coming of winter. When the transmission is cold, it will not shift from 2nd to 3rd. After driving for a while (1/2 mile) it then warms up and changes. I have changed the fluid (5 quarts) and the filter but still no luck. I am now be quoted prices of 1500 to 2500 to fix if somthing major is wrong. Has anyone else experianced this?

Thanks

I experienced what I believe to be the same problem with my '98 Jeep Grand Cherokee (57k). It would not shift from 2nd to 3rd but only when cold. Solution: Replaced the piston seals on the forward/direct clutch pack. Prior to finding the solution I paid for a complete fluid change/flush & I also paid for a new Governor Valve and Throttle Pressure Valve.

Hi All,

Man what an awesome website...autoforum rocks!

Another update on the transmission chemical flush we did 6 weeks ago.

It is 3 weeks (22 days) since I last checked in and the weather is definitely getting colder in Nebraska. SO FAR SO GOOD. No complaints from the wife who has put another 500 miles of in town driving on the truck. It has shifted fine when I drive it so....a big yeah!

I do know that they did some chemical flush and drove the truck with that in there for a few miles...the above home remedy does save the bucks but I wonder if that chemical flush did the trick? I might try the above mentioned method though next time.

I pray our shift problem is solved and won't check into this thread with another shifting update unless it is bad news...so hope you don't see me here.

Happy Holidays Mike



McCANN where did u get this chemical flush done at, dealership?

also, try adding the Chrysler friction modifier from NAPA.

Hi dk,

It was at Garrett Tire Center in Kearney, NE. The owner I spoke with said he had seen it where a piece of lint type material or debris will cause a valve or something to not close or to stick (or something... heck, I am just plain ignorant when it comes to transmissions) and just changing fluid would not work...had to do the chemical flush. I will speak to him tomorrow and see if he can give us some more information.

I'll post his answer as soon as I get it.

And it is still all good with the shifting.

Mike

dk,

Forgot to mention that Garrett tire is not an auto or jeep dealer...just tires and auto repair. Mike

Thanks McCann, yea there are a couple of Lube changes here in the Sharon, Pa, I wonder if they do the chemical Flush, I guess I will have to check. I know they and the Dealership does the fluid flush (runs fluid through the entire tranny and lines under pressure to help flush out any gunk and stuff). I am having a problem with my tranny shifting, it shifts fine from 1st - 2nd around 12-15 mph, then shifts again around 19/20 mph (this shift is a lil slow/delayed shift) and it is quite annoying, I have changes Fluid/filter but shift still exist, so I think the chemical flush will help.

Thank for the Info.

Quote:
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Originally Posted by j2arch
I have a 99 GC and have been having problems with the transmission for a while but it is getting worse with the coming of winter. When the transmission is cold, it will not shift from 2nd to 3rd. After driving for a while (1/2 mile) it then warms up and changes. I have changed the fluid (5 quarts) and the filter but still no luck. I am now be quoted prices of 1500 to 2500 to fix if somthing major is wrong. Has anyone else experianced this?

Thanks

I am having the smae problem.. dealer says it is normal - i am having them look at it again, but I dont think they know how to fix the clunky shifting from 2nd to 3rd. fluids are all good.

Hi All,

Okay, I lied...I said I wouldn't check into this thread again unless I had a problem with the tranny shifting after the chemical flush.

It is still working great after almost 2 months.

I finally found the chemical product that worked. Before I share anymore, I want to say that this is not a commercial...I sell real estate...not chemical flushes.

According to my service guy, (see deeper in the thread for who) the product is a two step process made by BG. He called it a BG transmission flush. I asked if he could show it to me. There were two small cans shrinked wrapped together with each can about the size of a 12oz cola. One said "Quick Clean" and the other said "ATC Plus" .

He said they add one can and then drive (or run) the vehicle for about 10 or 15 minutes. They then drain all the tranny oil including the converter, and change the filter.

They add all new tranny fluid and the 2nd can of BG product. That is about all I know. I did find a website for BG but no specific mention of this product. (I did not search that long, though)

We have put about 700 miles on since I last posted and all is good.

Hope this helps someone...beats a new tranny this winter anyway.

Mike

Is this problem the same as mine? I have trouble with 3rd to 4th and 4th to overdrive. My Jeep had the tranny done under the original warranty around 50,000 miles and now it has 110,000 miles - is the same problem as before? I really don't want to spend $1500 for a tranny job!

My is a 96 5.2 Limited with 170K miles, but my does the opposite what everyone else is experiencing.
My transmission does fine first thing in the morning but it won't shift from 2nd into 3rd after it's warmed up. The more I drive it, the worse it get (if I let off the gas it will go into 3rd), and finally no 3rd gear after driving for a while. It's worse when it's warm outside. Any ideas beside a rebuilt? I have checked and changed the fluid but still no luck. Best of luck to everyone.

did u check the fluid level in Nuetral when at normal operating tampature? Sounds like there is too much fluid in the tranny.

Yes, I have checked the fluid in neutral. The trans fluid seems fine and within range. It's wacky cus it shift fine (very smooth in fact)first thing in the morning though a bit early into 3rd. Any other ideas?? Thanks.

Hi All,

3,400 miles since the chemical flush mentioned above...cold weather this past winter...hot weather right now...tranny is still working fine. 90% of driving is stop and go and it is shifting normal.

Sounds like everyone has good answers however has everyone forgotten all the TCM problems we have seen here?

The Grand Cherokee used a TCM "transmission control Module" and it has seem to frig with the trans keeping it from shifting right, the cold trans could be dew to non flowing fluid , but i'm sure the trans is getting hot someplace, maybe stupid hot.

I would take the jeep to the dealer and have them run a test on the TCM and see if it's dorked.

As long a the deal holds the keys to the big money testing equipment we have to go to them for SOME answers.

If you go and it's not it then you have some piece of mind, and you will be able to boil down some of the problems.

I do hope this helps, good luck

Hi again all,

It has been just over a year since I had the transmission flush done that is described here. It has been 6 months since I updated you with the ongoing results.

The wife is just getting ready to turn 80k on her GC...6,000 miles since the flush and that was the best $150 I have spent on the Jeep as all of her driving is short distance (5 miles or less) with stop signs and stoplights in between. She only puts on 8 miles round trip to work and back and little weekend driving.

Not sure it would work for any one else, but it sure worked for our truck!!

In the middle of this thread I described exactly what was done and I am thrilled!!!

Take care...Mike

What about this...I had the Trans. Service by the dealer who said they replace all 12 qts and filter. This cold not shifting problem was not there until AFTER they did this service. What if I added one of those after market additives that is suppose to soften the seals and restore lost "whatever"?

What about this...I had the Trans. Service by the dealer who said they replace all 12 qts and filter. This cold not shifting problem was not there until AFTER they did this service. What if I added one of those after market additives that is suppose to soften the seals and restore lost "whatever"?

You would be wastting money.

I sware more problems happen after a high miles trans has this done. I would take it back to the dealer and say "hey man my trans has been acting up since you did this work" and see what happens.

They will never do work on a trans thats toast, with that being said even if they do work on your engine if it's allready toast the dealer may be at falt.

Talk to your dealer, your really looking at a new trans. thats if it's not a CPU problem.

Hope this helps

Well the dealer is not even an option. They are bad. I had to get the car painted because of some vandlism in our area and while it was there in the lot it was broken into and the stereo was taken along with CDs etc.. They replaced the stereo with an exact match but when I asked for compensation for the CDs they said no. I asked for $150 to cover the expense and they said go to your car insurance....they have a deductable and it wouldn't have covered it. They claim to have a human security guys with a dog on the lot...ha ha ha. This couldn't have happened if he was doing his job since the car has an alarm system. Anyhow the owner refused to give up $150 so he lost a client. Never go to Lehmers in Concord, CA for any thing...he is a crook. Anyhow as you can see going back to the dealer is not an option. I have just learned to live with it since it starts shifting OK after a few miles.....sometimes it acts just like it was in neutral and then it catches....ugh. Other than that the jeep is great except that it needs a new AC compressor, dryer, expansion valve and high side hose. What do you think about me buying the parts and installing them and then having my garage buddy pruge the system and re-gasing it? He said he would do it for about $500.

Before I try to answer you what year is your jeep?

1993

i take it is a 93 with the I6 engine, I looked in my book and found that 2 things could be your problem other then the trans just being shot.

1. Fluid level, make sure your on a flat level surface and the trans is in Park and the car is warmed up, or check after a long drive. If the fluid is over or under it will cause this problem.

2.Your trans has "bands" that need adjusting, I called my local trans shop and they siad for around $30 they would adjust the bands on my 93 grand. This could also be the problem.

3. Cable adjustment, tho this may have very little of nothing to do with the trans it should also be checked, the cable i'm talking about is the one that shifts the trans out of gear fron the shifter, if it's between gears it could cause a problem like your talking about.

4. Problems with your T case could also be causeing problems, make sure the level in the T case is full, I would just replace the fluid it's easy, it uses Auto trans fluid, I use B&M trick shift Syn.

If everything is fine above and you have no problems with your PCM then you may just have a Trans thats on it's way out. I woudl also try disconnecting your battery for a few hours to clear the PCM to see if that helps.

I would like to know if and when you find the problem and what it was. Good luck I hope this helped.

The dealer was suppose to adjust the bands when they did the fluid change and filter. The last time I checked the fluid since I know it has to be right it was over. How can some be removed if they put in too much? I know I could crack open the pan but that would ruin the gasket. I didn't look but is there a drain plug like there is for oil on the engine?
Is there any easy way to check the level in the T case? Your right it is a 6cyc engine.

I have a 99 GC and have been having problems with the transmission for a while but it is getting worse with the coming of winter. When the transmission is cold, it will not shift from 2nd to 3rd. After driving for a while (1/2 mile) it then warms up and changes. I have changed the fluid (5 quarts) and the filter but still no luck. I am now be quoted prices of 1500 to 2500 to fix if somthing major is wrong. Has anyone else experianced this?

Thanks


I have been having the same problem, I just got my jeep 2 weeks ago as a early christmas present it is a 2000. It didn't have a problem until about 2 days after I got it...and now I find that when I first start out in warm or cold weather it has a hard time shifting until the trans warms up. From what I've learned the last couple of days it is not uncommon for this to happen and the only solution is to change out the transmission....If you find out anyother way please let me know
Thanks
bangalee

WOW everybodys haveing problems, no dought because of the changing seasons.

I know 1999 first run of the WJ was, well you should never buy the first run on a new car, I did it with a hundyie-ei-ei-o 1996 Accent POS my god this thing has everything wrong with it, from the trans to the unfogable windsheild to the slight smell of anit freeze, that was the big reason for the unfogable.

Of guys and gals, I know that some Jeeps have wireing problems in the doors, that in some cases messes with the PCM (so I have been told). You also have a sensor thats right on the shifting rod sticking out of the trans, as you shift the car into a gear this moves the switch, it turns on the back up lights and tells the PCM a bunch of stuff I could never even try to write here.

If your shifter cable is not adjusted right it can mess with things, if that switch is bad it can mess with things, also the ICS Idle control sensor can cause BS to happen, your 99 WJ has a strange Trans it had a dealer recall to re program a "extra gear" into it, I know please trust me on this or look on the web for yourself, in fact I will leave you the link I found it on. So anyhow you PCM may be doing the twist, before you put some change down for a ODB II check up on your PCM just unhook your battery for the night and rehook it up in the morning, it will kinda "reset" you wont loose the flash updates but it may clear out some problems, and if it does work but comes back you know you have a PCM problem.

If you are like me just spend the $100 on A. buying your own ODB II code reader or 2. Pay the DEALER to do it, not Advance Auto or Auto Zone the dealer has THE DODGE CODE reader, not a off shelf reader.

You can crack the pan and drain some, the pan will seal back up given everything is clean, they don't use cork anymore it's all rubber unless it's been replaced with a cork, but the factory should be useing rubber.

You can also do this, find a trans pan on the net of junk yard bring it home, clean it up and go to your auto parts store and buy a drane kit from B&M DONT USE THE DIRECTIONS FOR GODS SAKE IT WILL LEAK OR JUST TURN, take the pan to a welder and have him/her weld the nut to the outside of the pan, dont use the inside nut, make sure you take the drain plug out before you take it to the welder because he may just weld the nut on with the plug in the nut and when you get it home you find that the rubber "O" ring is melted....yep happen to me in my TH400 pan.

Now when you drop the pan just replace it with your new drain pluged pan anddo your own 30%+ trans fluid change and skip the $120 rip off.

"I used to work at a 10min Pens quickie" I know what i'm talking about as far as the trans pan and fluid. Also don't buy nothing but the Chevron total fuel system cleaner for cleaning your injectors, Cheveron is relabled and is the same stuff on the dealers shelf for $40.

It's allways best to know your options, I hope this helps, please feel free to ask away.

The T case has 2 big plugs in it, do you have a skid plate?
If you get under the jeep the plugs will be faceing the rear on the drivers side.

One plug will be on the top and one of the bottom, the top is for filling and the bottom is for draining. to just check to see if it's full, unscrew the top plug (after it's cooled down) and put your finger in it, if you cant feel any fluid, then you need some, however this is one of those times you should be doing a drain and refill.

If you can get your finger in it look at the fluid, is it black with a hint or red? If it is, it's well over dew for a change, it's ATF trans fluid, it should be red and see threw.

I know you have the I6, but the other guy didnt say what he had in his 99, but I will bet his 99 has a full time option on his T case, if it dose you have clutchs that loose bits off of it naturaly, and or anybody with a V8 ZJ has the 249 with the failing VC clutch, but for anybody the stuff to use is B&M Synth ATF.

I put this stuff in my 5.9 ZJ and I noticed more power and allmost a full pont in my MPG on the PCM display, no kidding this stuff works.

On the subject you can do the same drain plug trick to your front and rear diffs without paying $100's for new covers with drain plugs, and most don't have them, just a fill hole, and I don't know why they do that, you have the factory fill on the diff or case and so they add another fill on aftermarkets?!?!

But you should still change your fluids on your diffs, you can also pick up a "pump" to suck out your power steering fluid so that you can replace it, Jeep power steerings on the WJ class SUCK they are like Fords they start to wine after 45,000 you have to change this fluid, people with coolers on the power steering have to also, but not as often.

here is the link I forgot in the last post.
http://www.wjjeeps.com/

I want to claify something. If you remove the hose coming from the radiator that goes BACK to the trans. Would that not be better since you are then also flushing out the radiator section? You could then just have a section of hose clamped onto the fitting of the radiator and into a collection container. Also what about the hose that was pulled off the radiator fitting, should that be plugged so you are not sucking in air to the transmission?