Hi,

Can someone guide me where can I download the User Manual BMW 740i 1994 Model from the Internet?

Cheers,

BMW740i

I would like the link also... If there is one... I just paid 80 bucks for the papaer back book... is there an internet version?

I found 2 items that might help. The first one is a reply about an owner's manual on another forum, (www.roadfly.org).

The respondent wrote, "All you have to do in order to obtain an owner's manual is call BMW North American Headquaters in Montvale / Wycliff Lakes, NJ and ask that they send you one. They sent me one in less than two weeks for free. BTDT."

The second is for a downloadable owner's manual for a 1989 E32. For those who don't know, E32 is the chassis designator for 7-series cars 1988-1994 (in the US). Probably 95% of this manual is still applicable to the 1994 740i. Here's the link (look under 1989 UK Manual): http://bmwe32.student.utwente.nl/

Try www.E38.org the E38 owners handbook ;-) WAAAAY down at the bottom are the owners manual downloads, left side.

I found another link for E32 Owner's Handbook. Some of this site is in German but don't panic. Down about a page or so is the link for the handbook in English (large PDF file). Here's the link: http://tridem.han-solo.net/auto/erich/auto.htm

Lots of other good stuff here too, BTW.

Hi gang !! I'm new to the forum and I recently purchased a 1994 740 il. Hope I didn't get in over my head. I love the car ( one owner 119k mi and very clean) but reading some of the archived postings I'm fearing major repairs. Two questions for anyone. Aside from regular maintenance is the bmw a pretty trouble free car and with the mileage I have do I have to worry about a timing belt change?

bigb114: congratulations and welcome! You bought yourself one helluva car. My wife and I love our 1993 740iL as well; it drives like no other car that I've ever driven and in case you haven't noticed, new versions of this car sell for about $80,000 (http://www.bmwusa.com/), but buying a used one lets "riff-raff" like me get to drive one for a fraction of that cost.

You don't have to worry about a timing belt change but it would be a stretch to say a 1994 7-series BMW is a troulble-free car. After all, it's a complex car plus it's 10 years old so things are going to go wrong. Fortunately, there's LOTS of help via this forum, another one at www.roadfly.org, and probably some others. If you can do some of your own work, you'll do fine.

Three issues that almost all 7-series BMWs of that age face:

1) The Upper Control Arms, also known as the Thrust Arms, have bushing that need to be replaced. The symptoms are: vibration when heavy braking and/or tires that don't wear evenly. It's so common that you should almost consider it regular maintenance and do it/have it done as soon as your schedule and funds permits. The bushings are inexpensive but the labor is fairly difficult. What are your skill levels and tool set?

2) It's very common to have to replace the driveshaft. BMW uses sealed bearings and 100,000+ miles seems to be the normal life. The symptom is a slight vibration in the drivetrain. Also, there are some support bearings that may need to be changed as well. A rebuilt driveshaft goes for about $500 online. I paid 3 hours labor to have someone install mine (no lift at home). But this is a case of, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it", IMHO.

3) You should change the transmission fluid if it hasn't already been done. Unfortunately, it uses a special "liquid gold" fluid that originally was considered "lifetime" (you'll notice there is no dipstick). After further research, ZF Transmissions decided that "lifetime" really means 100,000 miles. Again, you should consider this regular maintenance and do it/have it done as soon as your schedule and funds permits. My suggestion here is to buy the fluid and filter kit online (Jaggi at http://www.jie.com/ is one source) and then pay a local shop to do the labor.

About doing some of your own work: A Bentley's repair manual is almost a must. As repair manuals go, it's expensive, but then again, it's more detailed than most and it covers a complex car. Bentley's is here: http://www.bentleypublishers.com/ but try ebay as well. At today's labor rates, it'll pay for itself the first time you avoid paying someone 1-2 hours worth of labor.

Welcome once again and good luck!

libertylover: Thanks a lot for the info and easing my mind. I was a little worried about repair costs to the extent that I was not enjoying the car itself. Your info has definately eased my mind.
My wife loves this car too but this is my first BMW so she senses that I'm uneasy about letting her out with it alone. She's right!!! This was a dream car for me and at $80k a new one was out of my range. So if someone hits it i want to be behind the wheel....but I dont want anyone to hit it.
One more question....Do you use regular or synthetic oil?

I use Valvoline synthetic oil because I live in Florida and I think the synthetic stuff maintains its lubrication properties better in the contstant heat. I noticed that Valvoline has a new synthetic made for engines over 75,000 miles, what the industry calls "high milage". However, many BMWs go 200,000 and even 300,000 miles without a major overhaul, so your car has a LOT of miles left. Here's a link to a site that has 2 good articles about motor oil, plus a ton of repair help with pictures: http://www.nmia.com/~dgnrg/page_2.htm

Again, the 740iL is one helluva car but you'll have your share of repairs, after all the car IS ten years old. Plus parts and labor do cost more compared to lesser cars. I've done all three of the items I mentioned and think I'm set until 200,000 miles. You've always got batteries, brakes, and an occasional alternator, waper pump, etc.

Relax, your reward for the somewhat higher maintenance costs is in the driving. As you and your wife have already found out, they don't call them "The Ultimate Driving Machine" for nothing.

so whats an 85 735i...what chassis code?

libertylover; thanks again for the reassurance. Your info has been a big help. I'm going to follow suit and stick with the synthetic oil even though I live in Maryland and dont have the luxury of year-round warm weather.
I have one other thing that I want to run by you...In the morning when I start her up she idles rough for about 10 min after which she idles smooth for the rest of the day. Also the check engine light comes on( sometimes intermittently) during this time but after the rough idling stops the light goes out and stays out for the rest of the day. Have any idea what that could be?

Hey libertylover
I almost forgot to wish you and yours a happy Thanksgiving!!!

zdude: an 85 735i is an E23 chassis code.

bigb: Well, the synthetic oil has better low temperature properties as well-flows better at low temperature and less likely than dino-oil to turn into thick goop.
Your idle and Check Engine Light MAY be from worn out oxygen sensors-I had a similar problem. The two O2 sensors are supposed to be replaced every 60,000 miles and I believe it's one of the things listed in the Inspection II items.

Supposedly, you can read your own fault codes with what is known as the "Stomp Test". I was never able to read mine though and I broke down and bought the code reader. Anyway, here's a link and most people CAN read their codes: http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/techarticles/Mult-Code_Reading/Mult-Code_Reading.htm

I you decide to change them, here's my advice for that job: Visit the (hard to navigate) Bosch website at http://www.boschusa.com/home.asp. Then fight your way around until you find the section that tells you the right O2 sensor for your car. Then go to ebay and find the right sensor. Don't trust the ebay ad to tell you the right application for your car, compare the Bosch part number they are selling to the one you got from the Bosch website. I bought mine this way for $65 each. Dealer price is about $125 each. Then go to an autoparts store that loans tools. Locally, Autozone does that. Borrow (you put a deposit down which is refunded upon return of the tool) an Oxygen Sensor replacement socket. Raise and support the car as high as you can get it because the O2 sensors are roughly at the center of the car. Crawl under and change them. If you can't change them yourself, buy the sensors on ebay anyway then find a shop that will do the labor with the parts you provide.

You said your car was a one-owner. If the 1st (rich) owner replaced the O2 sensors at 60,000 miles as scheduled the problem might be that you need to change the Intake Manifold Gaskets which could be leaking air until they warm up and expand. This is, well, it's quite a lot harder. Here's my advice: Try to read your codes via the "Stomp Test" and if they clearly point to O2 sensors, change them and see what happens. If you can't read the codes, or if you change the O2 sensors without much improvement, find a BMW pro in your area and pay them to diagnose the problem. If they say it's the gaskets you can: 1) pay them to do it; 2) change them yourself; or 3) live with it. There are no special tools needed to do this job, it's just that it involves say 10 hours of labor because there's lots of stuff that you have to disconnect and reconnect. Good luck!