Guys,

I thought I found that the sway bar bushings were causing my front end passenger clunk and popping but guess what, they weren't.

Before I drop the bomb and show what I learned through scouring the internet, I have replaced the following:

Lower Ball Joints
Passenger Upper Ball Joint
Sway Bar End Links (Had to be replaced Anyways)
Sway Bar Bushings
Front and Rear Shocks

Total bill: ~US$600

After all of that, it wasn't even the problem. There is a service bulletin that talk about this in this upcoming video.

Want to know what the clunk is? Here you go!

http://img1.putfile.com/thumb/9/24723565582.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=3329776)

Remove this 7mm screw holding the small outer cowl inserts over the hinges. Close the hood.

Remove the covers carefully and don't break the clips.

The hingles will be attached and they are a 13mm nut and bolt.

http://media.putfile.com/clunkfix <---Video Here

That's right, a $2 dollar part fixes this problem that has pissed so many Blazer owners off.

This is the service bulletin that came out in 2001 I believe. Covers all S10 and Blazers.

http://www.zr2.com/frequently_asked_questions/problems/clunking.html

Scroll Down to Rattle.

There you have it, I temporarily laid a couple bunched up shop towels under the flat part in the video and went for a drive on the roughest washboard road within 50 miles and never heard a thing.

Hope you don't go through what I went through.

Nice post, with pictures. Its unbeliveable isn't it how easy of a fix this is, especially when you think no way it could be the hood hinge and then after when you do that first test drive. Why don't dealers just send this info out. It gets you back to loving your drive instead of dreading those clunking and rattling sounds. All for $2 .
I encourage all to try this before investing money in shocks and replacing other parts that MAY not need replacing.
Thanks BlazerLT for lending proof of this fix.

Wow, this is ridiculous that it took me this long to find it.

It is crazy the amount of research and money and testing I have put into this for it to be something not even related.

BTW, I put the shop towels in the prop up the hinge and took it for a drive and not a peep came out of it.

Was one of the most satisfying drives in many recent years.

I'm gona definately do this myself ASAP....now if we can only quiet up the noisy / rattled filled interior of our trucks.......

This has been mistaken for interior rattle too.

Does this apply to other years besides 1995 that the bulletin mentions ?

Please reread the first post again.

Please reread the first post again.

if your gonna post, why not just tell him? must you always be a prick?

Yea, I am a prick that created this thread to help everyone.

kthxbye moron

Yea, I am a prick that created this thread to help everyone.

kthxbye moron

oooppss, forgot i had to switch to 5 year old mode. let me see if i can get this so you'll understand.


if you were gonna post that he should re-read the first post, then why not just post the answer he wanted, instead of being a prick.

Enjoy the thread guys, this fix worked awesome for my clunk.

Yeah I just bought the washers... What side of the hinge did you put them on?

Ok,

You put them on the head portion of the bolt.

You remove the bolt from the hinge, slip the washer over the bolt so that the wider portion of the cone washer is towards the head of the bolt and and the narrower portion is towards the threads.

Reinsert the bolts, tighten it up and you can check and see that the clunk and knocking noise is now gone.

Enjoy, I am so happy about mine. It is almost like a new truck feel when you don't have that clunk to worry about.

I love my ride now also. It makes ya wonder how many people spent a bunch of money on shocks and front end parts when the cluncking is due to a couple dollar fix and so easy to do.
I was so happy with this fix. But what really pisses me off is that when I took it to the dealer and had an alignment they didn't even offer this fix to me. I had to find it on my own. You figure after they test drive it they could have said something like "did you ever have your hood hinge retainer bolts checked? For $25 we think we can fix that clunk and get you loving your Blazer/Jimmy again." I think it would ensure a bit of customer loyalty. It would help me forget the problems with bad front bearings, wiper module problems, bad batteries, seat handles, etc,
By the way I would encourage any READERS who do this fix to POST if it works so others will know, ya know pass it on.

Just got mine...I'll let everyone know when they are installed....

just make sure the narrower portion of the washer points to the threads.

Wow, this is ridiculous that it took me this long to find it.

It is crazy the amount of research and money and testing I have put into this for it to be something not even related.

BTW, I put the shop towels in the prop up the hinge and took it for a drive and not a peep came out of it.

Was one of the most satisfying drives in many recent years.


BLT, is this the pop sound that comes sometimes from turning? Mine sounds like something in the front end. I had someone look at it and he said the ball joints and everything else looked fine.

Guys,

I thought I found that the sway bar bushings were causing my front end passenger clunk and popping but guess what, they weren't.

Before I drop the bomb and show what I learned through scouring the internet, I have replaced the following:

Lower Ball Joints
Passenger Upper Ball Joint
Sway Bar End Links (Had to be replaced Anyways)
Sway Bar Bushings
Front and Rear Shocks

Total bill: ~US$600

After all of that, it wasn't even the problem. There is a service bulletin that talk about this in this upcoming video.

Want to know what the clunk is? Here you go!

http://www.tweaknews.net/decarbon/one.JPG

Remove this 7mm screw holding the small outer cowl inserts over the hinges. Close the hood.

Remove the covers carefully and don't break the clips.

The hingles will be attached and they are a 13mm nut and bolt.

http://www.tweaknews.net/decarbon/clunkfix.AVI <----Right Click, Save As

That's right, a $2 dollar part fixes this problem that has pissed so many Blazer owners off.

This is the service bulletin that came out in 2001 I believe. Covers all S10 and Blazers.

http://www.zr2.com/frequently_asked_questions/problems/clunking.html

Scroll Down to Rattle.

There you have it, I temporarily laid a couple bunched up shop towels under the flat part in the video and went for a drive on the roughest washboard road within 50 miles and never heard a thing.

Hope you don't go through what I went through.
Can't get the video! Just has the guy talking. No Picture!!

download the Divx codec

www.divx.com

And yes, you need to check if yours is loose.

Just did mine....my bolts had a shoulder just under the head that the washer fit nice and snugly against....I haven't driven it yet (going to takle the fuel filter now) but it didn't sseem to have any slop and the shoulder of the bolt fit nice and nug in the hinge hole even before I put in the new washer....we'll see soon !

You check for slop before you put the washers on.

did you do that?

Actually yes I did and everything seemed nice and tight...oh well it was only a few bucks for the washers and 10 minutes to do it - great tip though !

My hood didn't really seem loose either, but when it went over bumps it would rattle bad. How did the fuel filter go? That's my next project...

PAin in the ass.

I think its GM's way of making a little bit more cash in their colossal wallet!

hehe, or a way for dealerships to screw a couple extra dollars out of the consumer.

Woot.. another one added to the list!.. thnx OP!

Fuel filter is the worst....especially getting it to slide out of that damn plastic ring...

Yea, that does suck.

I had to bash the old one with a screwdriver and hammer to get it out.

Best thing to do after is grease the ring so that the filter slides on easily and also put antiseize on the filter fitting where ever you screw a fitting into the filter on some years.

Great Thread thanks,
I think this might be what I am hearing. I thought it might be my door hinge. It sems to disappear when I open the door. Maybe it is just drowned out by the road noise.
Anyways I can't view your video clip to work on 2 computers. I only get audio. I took the cowl off and I see the the bolt you speak of but I can't get it to rattle like you did. Want to make sure I am looking at the right place. Can you repost the video or post stills?

Thank you for any help.

Bill
DeadPaisly@hotmail.com



Guys,

I thought I found that the sway bar bushings were causing my front end passenger clunk and popping but guess what, they weren't.

Before I drop the bomb and show what I learned through scouring the internet, I have replaced the following:

Lower Ball Joints
Passenger Upper Ball Joint
Sway Bar End Links (Had to be replaced Anyways)
Sway Bar Bushings
Front and Rear Shocks

Total bill: ~US$600

After all of that, it wasn't even the problem. There is a service bulletin that talk about this in this upcoming video.

Want to know what the clunk is? Here you go!

http://www.tweaknews.net/decarbon/one.JPG

Remove this 7mm screw holding the small outer cowl inserts over the hinges. Close the hood.

Remove the covers carefully and don't break the clips.

The hingles will be attached and they are a 13mm nut and bolt.

http://www.tweaknews.net/decarbon/clunkfix.AVI <----Right Click, Save As

That's right, a $2 dollar part fixes this problem that has pissed so many Blazer owners off.

This is the service bulletin that came out in 2001 I believe. Covers all S10 and Blazers.

http://www.zr2.com/frequently_asked_questions/problems/clunking.html

Scroll Down to Rattle.

There you have it, I temporarily laid a couple bunched up shop towels under the flat part in the video and went for a drive on the roughest washboard road within 50 miles and never heard a thing.

Hope you don't go through what I went through.[/QUOTE]

You need to install the dixc codec at www.divx.com

The spring washers did solve all of my low speed problems, but not all of my high speed problems. Today on the highway it was windy and I was going about 75. I could see that just the passenger side of my front hood was shaking near the front of the car. It didn't make any sounds until the wind gusted hard and then I heard a little rattling.

Are those black rubber screwy bumpers supposed to prevent the front of the hood from shaking? I plan on wrenching the hinge bolts again tomorrow. It's wierd that only one side is shaking.

Hey relax on the overtorquing things.

Yes, unscrew those front bumper stop till the play out of the front is gone. That is what they are there for.

Yeah, I didn't mean to say "plan on wrenching," I mean to try the bumper thing first. I'm not an overtorquing kind of guy. I'll be on the highway again next weekend, so I'll let you know how it goes.

The bumpers turn very easy and take the play completely out of the hood and should tighten it right up for you.

Thanks a million--We have been looking for this problem for 2 years...Thought it was coming from under the front right corner of the dash...really bad on washboard roads...This is it right? Buying the washers tomorrow...thanks again..

Guys,

I thought I found that the sway bar bushings were causing my front end passenger clunk and popping but guess what, they weren't.

Before I drop the bomb and show what I learned through scouring the internet, I have replaced the following:

Lower Ball Joints
Passenger Upper Ball Joint
Sway Bar End Links (Had to be replaced Anyways)
Sway Bar Bushings
Front and Rear Shocks

Total bill: ~US$600

After all of that, it wasn't even the problem. There is a service bulletin that talk about this in this upcoming video.

Want to know what the clunk is? Here you go!

http://www.tweaknews.net/decarbon/one.JPG

Remove this 7mm screw holding the small outer cowl inserts over the hinges. Close the hood.

Remove the covers carefully and don't break the clips.

The hingles will be attached and they are a 13mm nut and bolt.

http://www.tweaknews.net/decarbon/clunkfix.AVI <----Right Click, Save As

That's right, a $2 dollar part fixes this problem that has pissed so many Blazer owners off.

This is the service bulletin that came out in 2001 I believe. Covers all S10 and Blazers.

http://www.zr2.com/frequently_asked_questions/problems/clunking.html

Scroll Down to Rattle.

There you have it, I temporarily laid a couple bunched up shop towels under the flat part in the video and went for a drive on the roughest washboard road within 50 miles and never heard a thing.

Hope you don't go through what I went through.

Yes, it was an annoying rattle that eminated from under the dash. This should almost definetely fix your problem!

Yes, it was an annoying rattle that eminated from under the dash. This should almost definetely fix your problem!

Thanks--We have spent more on this car than it is worth...hub bearings, ball joints, exc, exc,,.........no thanks to the dealer either. Grossinger GMC chicago!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1

Glad this helped you.

I remained silent on posting results until after week of having this "fix" in place. It worked well on mine. I dropped $1.70 at the local Ace Hardware to get the spring washers. However, mine did NOT have plain old spring washers, but locking conical washers. Same diff, really, but they have a "star washer" pattern cut on the ouside edge. I would have cost half as much, but I bought 4 washers so I could have replacements on hand, or hand them off to the invariable friend that will have the same problem.

"Check yer hinge bolts dude - and put these in..."

The small end of the "cone" should face the hinge, the star shaped/broader cone side should cup around the head of the bolt itself. This will take the clearance right out and give you a solid, silent ride. Mine sounded like a bad shock or worn front end parts with a rattle coming from the driver's side dash, and a pronounced and very loud "clunk" on the passenger side that you could feel from your feet when they were flat on the floorboards.

It would seem that no amount of tightening would help this, but those bastardized locking cone washers did the trick for me. Again, mucho thank-you's on a sleuthing job well-done!

You are so welcome!

Amazing how such a small thing can solve such a big problem that has owners running to their local suspension shops and mechanics to have unneeded replacements done.

Just got mine...I'll let everyone know when they are installed....

just did hood today, thanks again!!!! Such an easy fix...the dealer sold the washer 12383460 in a pack of two for 2.39 wholesale (3.19 was the retail price)...awesome...you could almost see how pissed they were for not being able to keep charging (and I keep paying) for this noise that they 'couldn't find'...

BTW on the plastic covers that go over the hood hinges---I had to order the screw holders that seat down into the body because i trashed them by using a channel lock when they would not unscrew. Plastic GM crap. However, no more rattle!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Awesome , another happy Blazer Owner.

I have a 96 Jimmy. I have clunk/knock type of noise that is pretty much exclusive to turning. I can feel it in the floorboard when it happens. Is this the same noise you are refering to with this fix?

More than likely.

I have a 96 Jimmy. I have clunk/knock type of noise that is pretty much exclusive to turning. I can feel it in the floorboard when it happens. Is this the same noise you are refering to with this fix?

as previously stated, it could be. but feeling it in the floor board could also be torsion bar mounts.

the washers are cheap, so no harm trying that first. however if the noise remains i'd look at the torsion bar mounts next.

Torsion bar mounts don't exist on the 2nd generation blazer.

They only occur on the 1994 and older first generation s-series.

Torsion bar mounts don't exist on the 2nd generation blazer.

They only occur on the 1994 and older first generation s-series.

so then i guess the torsion bars on my 2000 Blazer arent really there. and where they attach doesnt exist either?

Go under your vehicle.

The crossmember that the torsion bars are attached to do NOT have the same frame mounts as the 1994 and older s-series.

Those are the mounts on the 1994 and older that make the clunk. We don't have those on 1995 and newer blazers and jimmy, they have a newer system for ours.

This is the system in the 1994 and we don't have it:

Here is the link:

http://www.sytyarchives.com/howto/viewarticle.php?article_name=torsion_bar_mounts.ph p&dir=suspension

We don't have that system in the second generation.

i found what i read... although it doesnt apply to the '96, its for '98-up. i knew it involved the torsion bar, and a clunk. :screwy:


Clunk Noise Felt Through
Floor Pan
Affected Models:
1998-2003 Chevrolet S-10, Blazer
1998-2001 GMC Envoy, Sonoma,
Jimmy (US), and Oldsmobile Bravada
1998-2003 GMC Jimmy (Canada)
Some owners of the listed vehicles
may experience a clunk noise that can be
felt through the floor pan.

This condition may be caused by the
torsion bar crossmember contacting the
frame rails during left or right turns or on
uneven surfaces.

Determine if the clearance between
the left frame rail to crossmember and
right frame rail to crossmember are equal.
If not, install either a washer or alignment
shim between the upper mount and
frame.
Refer to SI document 539243. This
document includes a component diagram
of the torsion bar crossmember to frame
rail assembly and may provide assistance
in the repair.

True, but it doesn't involve a mount like the 1994 and older s-series.

Hi Guys,

Blazer LT I'm going to check into your post, I must admit that I am skeptical because the clunk comes through the floor pan. Cobra1's post is correct because I found that bulletin 2 years ago, and I had it fixed when my vehicle still had a warranty. The dealer replaced the sway bar and the clunk went away. About 8 months later it came right back! I just live with it now.

BUT there is another noise - rattle that seems to come from behind the dashboard, I took out my dashboard looking for something that was loose to no avail. Maybe your post addresses that - I'll give it a shot. In either case thanks for being so informed it is a big help!

Blazer,

If you check the second link that you sent in the original post from the ZR2 forum, there is a seperate section for "clunking" that is different from the "rattle"


http://www.zr2.com/frequently_asked_questions/problems/clunking.html


I think this the answer, truth is the problem is not a big deal. Again, I will try the solution for the rattle

Regards

There are no torsion crossmember mounts on a 1995 and newer s-series.

That link you have from the site is for a DRIVELINE clunk from the driveline going from park to drive and not the suspension.

The rattle behind the dash is definitely the hood.

I am new to the site and found some great info.
I have a 2000 Jimmy and have had the same problem popping. I replaced both hub assemblies and still popping real bad. Just went today and had everything greased for the second time. I thought maybe the grease had dispersed so much that it needed more. I was considering the ball joints next. Now I will definetly check on the washers.

Has anyone with this problem heard a popping crackling noise at the bottom of the windshield on the drivers side? Did the washers fix this too?
-Thanks Blazer.

Yes, it affects both of them.

Don't replace anything else, just replace the washers. Trust me, the noise will be gone.

Where can I find MORE updates from GM?

**EDIT**
Found it:

http://www.alldata.com/recalls/index.html

alldata.com

Hey guys,
After reading about this simple fix, I wrote down the part number and took it to my GM dealer. They couldn't find the part number in their system and on their diagrams there wasn't even a washer on the hood hinge at all (apparently since it's an updated part they don't have it in stock and why it's also not on their diagrams). They said they would either have to special order it or I can get one at the other GM dealer across town and they've only got two in stock. Someone also said they got a washer at Ace Hardware that worked just as well. I tried that as well, to no avail. One person called this washer that I need a "spring washer" and another called it a "locking conical washer." Which is the right name for this part so I don't look like a fool running around for it?

That is the right part number, I got them here at the dealer with that exact number.

Go with the exact washer that I quoted.

It is the perfect thickness and size for the application.

You called it a "cone washer" and the part number I have is 12383460. This is correct?

12383460 WASHER

The parts center at the local dealership had them here under that number in Canada.

Part number would be the same anywhere though, right? I'm in Alaska. Didn't have time to go to the dealer today so I'll go by tomorrow. Also, I downloaded divX and watched that video, took off the black trim/cover where the hinge is on my Jimmy, wedged in a shop towel, and test drove it. No sound whatsoever. So I drove home and took out the towel, replaced the trim/cover, and I've been driving it unfixed since. AND I'M NOT HEARING IT ANYMORE!! I did the washboard thing again and there was nothing. I thought maybe since it's so cold the metal might have contracted so it's tighter now. Is it still a good idea to replace the washer so it doesn't come back or get worse later, or should I save my time?

Number will be the same in North America.

I would install the washers. The noise will come back.

Admittedly, I ghettoed mine together. I could not tell you off the top of my head what the ACE part number is. Good old shop and mechanical experience pretty much helped me to determine the right size to get to fix mine up.
Go with BlazerLT's advice, hit the dealership with that number he gave you. You'll be sure to get the right thing from them and it will make your life easier. ;)

Thanks guys... Now if only I could finish installing my remote starter!

**EDIT**
Got the washer from the dealer and I can't believe that I paid $3 for this tiny ring of metal!!!!!

To the top.

Some others are having this clunk problem and I wanted to bring it up for everyone to see.

Thanks for this fix and all the other info you have passed on.

No problem! :D

For as long as we had this blazer that clunk was getting on my nerves. It always sounded like something was gonna fall out. Thx for the fix LT. I'll try it this weekend.

I've had same sound on my blazer... only from the driver's side.. after reading this post and watching the movie I went out propped the hood and shook boths sides and sure enough the passenger side is nice and snug and the driver's side has a good 1/8" - 1/"4 'play'... when I get it back from the tranny place tomorrow gonna try the towel trick. but I'm betting that's what the noise is.. and I was sure it was wheel/support related.
thanks BlazerLT :worshippy

Yip, I replaced my whole front end because of it.

Wished I knew earlier.

Yip, I replaced my whole front end because of it.

Wished I knew earlier.

That was going to be this summer's car project.. get rid of that rattle /clunk.. always freaked my gf out cause it sounds like it coming from the front axle/supports.. (only happens on 'bumps) So always made her anxious to get in the blazer... in her words : "sounds like the front tires' gonna fall off"

I crammed a bunch of paper towels in the side of the trunk (mines on driver side.. not passenger side tho..) and drove through our pothole laden entrance to our appt complex.. and.. viola.. no rattle!!!!.. Amazing.

now I've just gotta get that washer...

Thanks BlazerLT

On further investigation I don't think that rattle comes from the washer. It uselly makes the clunk noise when you slowly turn the car hard left or right. Never the less I'll replace that washer just in case.

On further investigation I don't think that rattle comes from the washer. It uselly makes the clunk noise when you slowly turn the car hard left or right. Never the less I'll replace that washer just in case.

Check the washer first if that isn't it check your ball joints they wear out quickly if not well maintained.

That was going to be this summer's car project.. get rid of that rattle /clunk.. always freaked my gf out cause it sounds like it coming from the front axle/supports.. (only happens on 'bumps) So always made her anxious to get in the blazer... in her words : "sounds like the front tires' gonna fall off"

I crammed a bunch of paper towels in the side of the trunk (mines on driver side.. not passenger side tho..) and drove through our pothole laden entrance to our appt complex.. and.. viola.. no rattle!!!!.. Amazing.

now I've just gotta get that washer...

Thanks BlazerLT

Glad to have helped.

Guys,

I thought I found that the sway bar bushings were causing my front end passenger clunk and popping but guess what, they weren't.

Before I drop the bomb and show what I learned through scouring the internet, I have replaced the following:

Lower Ball Joints
Passenger Upper Ball Joint
Sway Bar End Links (Had to be replaced Anyways)
Sway Bar Bushings
Front and Rear Shocks

Total bill: ~US$600

After all of that, it wasn't even the problem. There is a service bulletin that talk about this in this upcoming video.

Want to know what the clunk is? Here you go!

http://www.tweaknews.net/decarbon/one.JPG

Remove this 7mm screw holding the small outer cowl inserts over the hinges. Close the hood.

Remove the covers carefully and don't break the clips.

The hingles will be attached and they are a 13mm nut and bolt.

http://www.tweaknews.net/decarbon/clunkfix.AVI <----Right Click, Save As

That's right, a $2 dollar part fixes this problem that has pissed so many Blazer owners off.

This is the service bulletin that came out in 2001 I believe. Covers all S10 and Blazers.

http://www.zr2.com/frequently_asked_questions/problems/clunking.html

Scroll Down to Rattle.

There you have it, I temporarily laid a couple bunched up shop towels under the flat part in the video and went for a drive on the roughest washboard road within 50 miles and never heard a thing.

Hope you don't go through what I went through.

Ok, I'm about ready to jump off our local bridge. Even though I checked the noise from the hood, and I could make it make the same noise, NOW THAT I'VE ADDED THE WASHER, THE SOUND IS STILL THERE. I've done a bunch of things to make sure it's NOT coming from the hood. And now I think Ive isolated it to the passenger door. I can make the noise stop by holding the door slightly open when I hit the brakes etc. And it doesnt make the noise. Anyone else have this same issue? I can't MAKE the door make the noise, but I can make it stop by opening it while driving. Do I have to replace the pins and bushings? Is this expensive? Is it easy to do myself?
thanks in advance

Did you put the washer on the sholder portion of the bolt with the narrower end of the washer pointing towards the thread portion?

hahaha this thread will never go away!

Pin and bushings are easy. The parts were actually cheaper from the dealer for me (upper and lower -13 bucks). You'l need a spring compressor tool, hammer, and a bolt and washer mechanism to seat the bushings in properly. Should take about a half hour for the beginner.

hahaha this thread will never go away!

Pin and bushings are easy. The parts were actually cheaper from the dealer for me (upper and lower -13 bucks). You'l need a spring compressor tool, hammer, and a bolt and washer mechanism to seat the bushings in properly. Should take about a half hour for the beginner.


I think I need to do this. Can you explain the parts a little more? And the tools: Spring compressor tool? bolt and washer mechanism?
Does anyone have photos or images of this?
I can't get the door to make the noise...just stops by opening it while driving. I've noticed I have slight play in the door up and down, while the drivers side has none.

i never used the spring compressor tool. i just took the bottom pin out and lifted the door and the spring fell out. better than buying a tool you will only probably every use once, i also strongly reccomend having 2 people for this job or use jack stands covered with towels so you dont scratch paint. that door gets pretty heavy after holding it up a while.

I bought the spring washers in Okla and they cost $5.20 from the dealer, installed in minutes and the old ones from the hood hinge were shredded up, so far no noise.
Thanks

i never used the spring compressor tool. i just took the bottom pin out and lifted the door and the spring fell out. better than buying a tool you will only probably every use once, i also strongly reccomend having 2 people for this job or use jack stands covered with towels so you dont scratch paint. that door gets pretty heavy after holding it up a while.

How did you get the spring back in? Obviously it's not hard to get it out, but putting the spring back in is another issue. Also the tool only costs 20 bucks. Chances are that if one of your doors needs new pins and bushings, the rest will too.

Joshbarber: The new bushings need to be pressed into their holes. What you do (just like seating bike bearings) is you take a long bolt with a matching nut and at least 2 washers, you put it through the bushings with one washer outside of each bushing, and you tighten it with the nut. It will seat the bushings evenly in the holes. Then you take the bolt out and put your pins in, use the spring compressor tool to bring the spring back in, and you're done.


I'm gald people have been getting the clunk fixed. I've told all my s-series friends and they love it.

Just got mine...I'll let everyone know when they are installed....
This is applicable to both driver and passenger sides? I as well have a loud pop, sounds like something going in and out of place. I believed it to be the suspension, almost like it was coming from the passenger floorboards?

Yip, that isthe noise I had too.

The washers will fix it right up.

I'm so glad this thread popped up again last week... the washer fixed my clunk noise from passenger side and now the ride even FEELS smoother without that noise.

did anyone get a part number for these washers?

I didn't feel like driving to the dealership, so I cut a washer out of the plastic of an old oil container. As easy as it was to get to the bolt in question, I won't mind doing this job again correctly (with GM parts) if I ever have to, and if I don't have to, I saved a trip and a couple of dollars.

SHIT!
well, I replaced the drivers side washer again, as it DID need to be replaced. I flattened it out on install, which is why it started to rattle. I didnt really understand what good it would do flat when I installed it, which makes sense. ONLY TIGHTEN THEM SO THAT THE CONE IS PRESSED TIGHTLY INTO THE HINGE HOLE.

The SHIT! is for the fact that I still feel the rattle in the floorboard.

I would also like to remind everyone that the rubber hood adjustment bumpers need to be at the right height. One of mine was too low (screwed in too much) and the hood would vibrate at high speeds.

This will cause rattling and flattening of your new washers.

Very true, good point.

Will this clunk fix work on the 1st gen. Blazers as well? I have a '91 and the sound of it is almost identical to what you guys are saying but it sounds like all your Blazers are 2nd generation.

It will be that, or the torsion bar mounts for the first gen.

Just got mine...I'll let everyone know when they are installed....
I just got back from the dealer and they do not have the part listed. Do you have the number which you could pass on, much appreciated.

12383460 Washer - Hood Hinge

12383460 Washer - Hood Hinge
Thanks for the quick response much appreciated.

Always wondered what that was. New project for tomorrow I see.

Ordered the washers this morning. $3.00 at my dealership and he wanted to know exactly why I wanted them. Then said..oh that may fix it..but most likely not.

Part number would be the same anywhere though, right? I'm in Alaska. Didn't have time to go to the dealer today so I'll go by tomorrow. Also, I downloaded divX and watched that video, took off the black trim/cover where the hinge is on my Jimmy, wedged in a shop towel, and test drove it. No sound whatsoever. So I drove home and took out the towel, replaced the trim/cover, and I've been driving it unfixed since. AND I'M NOT HEARING IT ANYMORE!! I did the washboard thing again and there was nothing. I thought maybe since it's so cold the metal might have contracted so it's tighter now. Is it still a good idea to replace the washer so it doesn't come back or get worse later, or should I save my time?

No dude! Metal doesn't expand and contract that much :eek7: But who knows why it stopped. Good tho'

Just got mine...I'll let everyone know when they are installed....
Are these special washers that need to be purchased at the dealer are they nylon or steel

Yes, they are metal.

Hello to all. I'm new to this site, and have been searching for a cure for the clunk I've felt in the passenger floorboard (on take off, and generally right hand turns), on our 96 Blazer 4x4, for nearly a year. Ball joints, sway bar bushings, idler arm, messing around with the torsion bar mounts, and even the 7 dollar spring washers, with no fix. Although they were in need of replacing anyways. I read a suggestion (i thought was from this thread, but I cant find the post), about re-torqueing the upper A arm bolts. I had been told by numerous suspension experts, the A-arm bushings were fine. Well it seems over time the rubber from the bushings tends to shrink, allowing the a-arm to move back and forth just enough to make a clunk. I loosened the a-arm bolts allowing a little seperation, and hosed it down with white lithium grease, then re-torqued to specs. It not only cured that clunk, but another that I would sometimes get hitting pot holes, or going over rough pavement. Anyways, i thought I would post this for the people that haven't found their cause. Maybe it will save someone a couple hundred bucks.

Dusty

i still have a clunck in my 95 that nobodys been able to fix. lower and upper ball joints ,anti-sway link kit and bushings have been replaced,shocks replaced, entire front ends has been gone over and its still there. hood fixed as well and its still there. took it to a friend of mine and him and his mechanic could find anything rubbing or anything that looked like it was hitting. i looked at it my self and couldn't find anything. i've also played with the torision bar cross member and its not from there either. any ideas?

Im so glad I found this thread, Ive been chasing this clunk for weeks now .Ive spent 800 on front end parts. I hope this solves my problem....

Im so glad I found this thread, Ive been chasing this clunk for weeks now .Ive spent 800 on front end parts. I hope this solves my problem....

Yea, this is what happened to me too.

I vote this gets stickied

You want me to sticky this?

Sounds like a good idea to me.

The TSB that is linked in the first post is outdated, here is the current one:

http://www.image-hosting.ws/direct/1659.jpg

http://www.image-hosting.ws/direct/1660.jpg

I vote this gets stickied
Im so happy! This was my problem all along. $3.00 for two washers and problem solved . THANK YOU EVERYONE!!!! This site ROCKS.....

Gary

is it possible that this same problem would happen in a 93' Jimmy. mines making the same noise describied by many here, and we check the ball joints and everything, and couldnt figure out what the hell it was.

Yip....

It could happen too.

Or it could be your torsion bar mounts.

Yip....

It could happen too.

Or it could be your torsion bar mounts.

ok thanks man your a huge help, ill take a look at it in the morning

it was neither torsion bar mounts or the hood.

one of the body mount rusted through, and the transfer case was hitting the body

would it make a clunk when u started it and hit bumps but not when u powerbraked it?

**Update

We put the Jimmy up on the lift, and checked the mounts and while it was hanging on the lift, everything appeared fine.

We then saw the rusted hole in the body mount, so we wedged a peice of wood up in there to see if the noise stopped. Took it for a test drive, and sure enough the noise was still there.

My neighbor opened up the door and stuck his head down by the road, looking under the truck to see if he could pinpoint the problem. When we got back to the garage, he got down on his back, shoot torsion bar, and bam, it was torsion bar mounts, not the body mounts. It was driving us crazy, and finally we figured out the problem.

how were you able to see that the mounts were what was causeing it. the only thing i could see on the one side it looked like it had hit the frame at one time but hasn't for a long time. like you could see the rust but it had been there for a long time. if you understand what i'm saying. i did however put rubber on both sides including where it had hit and it didn't do anything for it.

the rubber is warn out and you can see where the torsion bar was slamming into the metal frame above

the rubber is warn out and you can see where the torsion bar was slamming into the metal frame above

See, was I right or was I right......

:lol: ;)

ya man you were right.

my neighbor, whos been a mechanic his entire life says you have his respect, because he couldnt figure out what the hell it was, and if you didnt tell me it was the torsion bar mount, we would have not known what it was, and the car would probabley go to the junk yard.

ya man you were right.

my neighbor, whos been a mechanic his entire life says you have his respect, because he couldnt figure out what the hell it was, and if you didnt tell me it was the torsion bar mount, we would have not known what it was, and the car would probabley go to the junk yard.

Glad to have helped you.

Now go and enjoy your clunk-free truck.

which bushing did you replace? the one that hooks up to the stud on the frame? i don't know it theres one where the torsion bar connect with the cross member. from looking at it could you tell it was hitting? would yours clunk when you started it?

http://www.sytyarchives.com/howto/viewarticle.php?article_name=torsion_bar_mounts.ph p&dir=suspension

A special thanks to BlazerLT for all the info.

I too have had a very frustrating time trying to fix that.
I allways thought that it was something loose and bouncing in the engine compartment. After going over that several times and a couple of wheel alignments I started at the a bunch of other things see the list below.

Here is what I did.
*Upper and lower ball joints (all four)
*Sway bar end links
*all four shocks
*upper and lower control arm bushings

When reading the post about the simple little cheap easy fix, I was very skeptical, but what could it hurt. Well it worked.

I like my truck just a little more now!

Yea, I know your feeling.

I was SOOOO happy when I found it.

I yelled WOOHOO! when I was driving it when I found it was fixed. The other driver's though I was ready for the nuthouse.

Hey BazerLT - thanks for the clunk post.. It worked on mine, too.. Thanks for saving me the time in replacing the shocks and etc..

The rattle is gone!!! yeh!!

sahweet!

just got a set pt #12383460 $3.45/piece
gonna find out if this does it!!!

can anyone tell me where i can see the video? when i click on the link
http://www.tweaknews.net/decarbon/clunkfix.AVI, it says "no results for this search, go to home page". I just went and picked up my washers, want to make sure i do it right.

can anyone tell me where i can see the video? when i click on the link
http://www.tweaknews.net/decarbon/clunkfix.AVI, it says "no results for this search, go to home page". I just went and picked up my washers, want to make sure i do it right.
Check your private messages:
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/private.php?

movies and picture back online for EVERYONE!

Even you Blazee......... ;) :lol:

Good, now I don't have to email it anymore.

Good, now I don't have to email it anymore.

Ahhh. That was nice of you.

Just got mine...I'll let everyone know when they are installed....
last week i traded my 85 s-jimmy for a 95 s-blazer sport 2 door with 30 inch mud tires all this time i tuogth that noise that only happens when i am at low speeds 2-3 mph while turning was the sway bar plus the annoying rattle i think from the spare tire carrier oh and i thougth it was odd since it only has 106k miles

http://www.tweaknews.net/decarbon/clunkfix.AVI stoped working again....

http://www.tweaknews.net/decarbon/clunkfix.AVI stoped working again....

Click the link in the posting starting this thread.

I am so glad someone has finally found out what the noise is all about! I have owned a 2000 that had this problem from day one of purchase. The dealership said it was the collapsable steering column and replaced that the first 60 days of ownership. I took it back constantly to tell them the noise was still there and after 3 years I turned the vehicle in on a new 2003. No porblems with that one. But we bought a used 2001 GMC Jimmy, the Blazer's sister, and it has the same noise. New shocks back and forth to the shop and still no one can figure it out.

I am a little confused by the post though. What is the two dollar part? The video doesn't show picture and the link for the service bulletin doesn't come up. Do you take out the old hinges and replace them or what? Where do you get the part?

I am so glad someone has finally found out what the noise is all about! I have owned a 2000 that had this problem from day one of purchase. The dealership said it was the collapsable steering column and replaced that the first 60 days of ownership. I took it back constantly to tell them the noise was still there and after 3 years I turned the vehicle in on a new 2003. No porblems with that one. But we bought a used 2001 GMC Jimmy, the Blazer's sister, and it has the same noise. New shocks back and forth to the shop and still no one can figure it out.

I am a little confused by the post though. What is the two dollar part? The video doesn't show picture and the link for the service bulletin doesn't come up. Do you take out the old hinges and replace them or what? Where do you get the part?

Watch the videos, I show you what to do.

And also the link has been fixed in the first post.

Im so glad that someone finally found the problem. iv read so many threads about that "CLUNK" and what to do, so im going to fix mine ASAP! thanks, and yes im a newbie who has only been reading threads and not posting anything. but i will from now on

Glad this has helped you. ;)

thanks for getting the link fixed, but I still can't view the video. I can hear the voice but not see the picture. I tried 3 different computers so it isn't the settings on the computers. It must be something in the video. Can you fix it so we can see the video?

Are you clicking the link in the first post in this thread?

Yes I am. Is there a different link? As I said I can hear it but can not see the video.

i also went to page 2 for the links and the one from tweak news says the page can not be found.

i also went to page 2 for the links and the one from tweak news says the page can not be found.

You will need the divx codec installed to view the movie as stated previously in this thread.

Thank you so much for all your info. Got the washers from the dealer the other day and my husband had them installed in no time. The noise is gone!

Okay, well, you've maybe given me some hope on my '94 S-10 Blazer. It has a front end passenger side clunk, but only when you make a left turn. The guy I bought it from replaced the ball joints, cv joints, and a whole host of other things, but never fixed it. I had one person tell me it could be an A-frame bushing causing it... But, could it be this instead? Thought I'd ask before I spent $500 getting the a-frame bushing replaced.

i changed my upper control arm bushings with no luck also. what ever it is its getting worse. i'm going to wait for it to either fall out or brake. nobody can find out where its coming from.

Okay, well, you've maybe given me some hope on my '94 S-10 Blazer. It has a front end passenger side clunk, but only when you make a left turn. The guy I bought it from replaced the ball joints, cv joints, and a whole host of other things, but never fixed it. I had one person tell me it could be an A-frame bushing causing it... But, could it be this instead? Thought I'd ask before I spent $500 getting the a-frame bushing replaced.

Replace your torsion bar mounts.

Links have been updated, if you want to view the movie, it is in the first post.

Hi. I just found this thread, and it sounds similar to what I have going on.
I have this "clunk" somewhere on my drivers side front. I had originally thought it was the ball joints, because when I went for an inspection sticker, the guy said I needed a l/f lower ball joint, and an idler arm, both of which I replaced right away. When he said that, I thought that would be where the noise is coming from. He said other than those 2 things, my front end was fine. When I realized I still had the noise, I thought maybe the ball joint was defective....nope. Maybe it was loose....nope. I am going to check the hood hinges soon, hopefully that will be the cure. I couldn't get that video clip to work. And the link for the TSB didn't work either.

The video worls.

Install the divx codec and wait for it to load, it takes time.

the video doesent work...can someone explain in detail how to do this?

ok i saw the video...what should i ask for when i go to the dealership? i dont want to look like a fool...

There is the part number listed in this thread.

I suggest reading through this thread, all the info needed is there.

Guys,

I thought I found that the sway bar bushings were causing my front end passenger clunk and popping but guess what, they weren't.

Before I drop the bomb and show what I learned through scouring the internet, I have replaced the following:

Lower Ball Joints
Passenger Upper Ball Joint
Sway Bar End Links (Had to be replaced Anyways)
Sway Bar Bushings
Front and Rear Shocks

Total bill: ~US$600

After all of that, it wasn't even the problem. There is a service bulletin that talk about this in this upcoming video.

Want to know what the clunk is? Here you go!

http://img1.putfile.com/thumb/9/24723565582.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=3329776)

Remove this 7mm screw holding the small outer cowl inserts over the hinges. Close the hood.

Remove the covers carefully and don't break the clips.

The hingles will be attached and they are a 13mm nut and bolt.

http://media.putfile.com/clunkfix <---Video Here

That's right, a $2 dollar part fixes this problem that has pissed so many Blazer owners off.

This is the service bulletin that came out in 2001 I believe. Covers all S10 and Blazers.

http://www.zr2.com/frequently_asked_questions/problems/clunking.html

Scroll Down to Rattle.

There you have it, I temporarily laid a couple bunched up shop towels under the flat part in the video and went for a drive on the roughest washboard road within 50 miles and never heard a thing.

Hope you don't go through what I went through.
HELP!

I Think I have the same problem with the stange rattle on my 1995 Blazer
I have replaced the shocks even the windshield.

The Video link and the info link in the post above no longer work and i an not sure how to proceed.

THANKS!!!

I bought the washers today and installed them on both hing mounts
and that took care of the noise that has been driving me nuts for 4 years.
Yes, my Blazer is old but only has 80K miles on it and I plan on keeping it until it dies.

Thank you very much for your help!

Greg

THANKS!!!

I bought the washers today and installed them on both hing mounts
and that took care of the noise that has been driving me nuts for 4 years.
Yes, my Blazer is old but only has 80K miles on it and I plan on keeping it until it dies.

Thank you very much for your help!

Greg

Glad this helped you. I too was getting driven nutz by the sound. When this fixed it I was on Cloud 9. Felt like a new truck.

Hi,

For the last 6 months every time I hit a bump in the road, it sounded like the front end of my 2000 Blazer was going to fall off. I came across this thread today and checked my truck at lunch. The driver side hinge was a little loose, I tightened it up and no more clunk. I picked up the washers at the local dealer (2 for $7) and will install them tonight. Again, thanks for the great tip.

Ed B.

Hi,

For the last 6 months every time I hit a bump in the road, it sounded like the front end of my 2000 Blazer was going to fall off. I came across this thread today and checked my truck at lunch. The driver side hinge was a little loose, I tightened it up and no more clunk. I picked up the washers at the local dealer (2 for $7) and will install them tonight. Again, thanks for the great tip.

Ed B.I too have been chasing this noise on my 97 Blazer. My dad mentioned this forum to me and I suppose I'll check my hood hinge bolts too. I'll let you know what I find.

Hey guys, thanks a lot for posting this. I cant believe tha clunking noise is finnaly gone! I had wondered for years what it was and alwats thought it was coming from inside the glove compartment, but i did exactly what BlazerLT suggested and it worked.

Also, posting the actual part number made it easier to find the right kind of washer.

I can't get video to work and the small picture in the post really doesn't help, cam you send me a picture a little bigger or more instructions

I can't get video to work and the small picture in the post really doesn't help, cam you send me a picture a little bigger or more instructions

The videos do work. Both of the links to the video works on the first page.

Please read the whole thread before you ask a lazy question that has already been answered.

Does any one have a copy of this video for blazer clunkfix? I cannot get it to work having trouble with downloading codec

As it has been said over 10 times in this thread, it says to install the divx codec to get the movie going.

Please read the WHOLE THREAD.

BlazerLT thanks a bunch for showing us this fix. I ordered the washers last week from the dealer and installed them today. I test drove the truck and drove on some choppy stretches of road to double check the washer fix worked! My wife's 2001 Blazer no longer needs an entire front end rebuild. Man you saved my bacon. Thanks again.

snoboy

BlazerLT thanks a bunch for showing us this fix. I ordered the washers last week from the dealer and installed them today. I test drove the truck and drove on some choppy stretches of road to double check the washer fix worked! My wife's 2001 Blazer no longer needs an entire front end rebuild. Man you saved my bacon. Thanks again.

snoboy

Glad to have helped you.

Bravo!

I have had this clunk in my 2000 Blazer ZR2 since it was new. I always felt it was a hinge problem, but never took the time to solve it. I was even thinking it could be something loose under the drivers side dash panel. I will be doing this repair soon!

There is the part number listed in this thread.

I suggest reading through this thread, all the info needed is there.

Before I get Flamed....I read the thread (tried dead old links and all :banghead: ) but I can not find the part number for the washer......anyone mind helping?

Thanks all!

Before I get Flamed....I read the thread (tried dead old links and all :banghead: ) but I can not find the part number for the washer......anyone mind helping?

Thanks all!

Never mind:rolleyes: ....third time looking....many questions with flaming remarks made me miss it....I found it this time:smokin:

Bumping an old thread but I just wanted to say thanks. I was about to start ordering parts to try and fix the thumping. But i found this thread, went to the dealer and no more thumps. Now i just have to figure out why its running rough, and I fear that its the spider assembly :(

Bumping an old thread but I just wanted to say thanks. I was about to start ordering parts to try and fix the thumping. But i found this thread, went to the dealer and no more thumps. Now i just have to figure out why its running rough, and I fear that its the spider assembly :(

You are welcome.

If the check engine light is on and the engine won't idle, but will run ok on the road, you have to clean your egr valve which is right under where the plastic intake attaches to the engine.

It will fix the issue.

No check engine light. It just seems to run rough at idle and it seems to be getting crappy gas milage. I just found out through more research that I might be able to get away with just replaceing the valve instead of the whole spider.

Will replacing the solinoid for the automatic transmission, be a cure for the transmission not shifting?

No check engine light. It just seems to run rough at idle and it seems to be getting crappy gas milage. I just found out through more research that I might be able to get away with just replaceing the valve instead of the whole spider.

Yea, the regulator will need to be replaced.

just remember that the longer you drive it like this, the more damge the gas in the oil will do to your engine. I would still remove and clean the egr as well while you have the upper plenum off and replace the EGR gasket.

Will replacing the solinoid for the automatic transmission, be a cure for the transmission not shifting?

Please start your own thread on this.

Here is the video uploaded to google.

<object width="425" height="355"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/97PUO-BDM0o&hl=en"></param><param name="wmode" value="transparent"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/97PUO-BDM0o&hl=en" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="355"></embed></object>

Weird, here is the link to the video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=97PUO-BDM0o

LT, is that part still availible at dealers? i'll have to test my truck to see if i have that dreaded rattle.

LT, is that part still availible at dealers? i'll have to test my truck to see if i have that dreaded rattle.

I can't see why not.

I can't see why not.
damn it i was just at the dealer today too, forgot to ask them about it :banghead:

LT, is that part still availible at dealers? i'll have to test my truck to see if i have that dreaded rattle.

It should be I just picked it up a couple of weeks ago. Just use the part number that u can find earlyer in this thread. I think it was about $3 for one at my dealership.

checked mine today, hood hinges are solid so no clunk there :thumbsup:

Blazer LT - You are a genius!! :loser:

I tightened the hinge bolt on the passenger side and..........NO MORE NOISE!!!!!!! Thank you so much for posting this. I dropped off my truck at the local GM dealership and they kept my car for three days without finding the source of this noise. The work order said the technician lubed the wheel stops. I still heard the sound immediately after leaving the dealership. I was so mad that I didn't bother turning around to complain and lose my car for another few days. TheY fixed my fuel gauge issue and I'm happy about that but I don't understand why the technician didn't refer to the advisory concerning this issue. I fixed the problem myself in 15 minutes thanks to your post. Thanks again Blazer LT my truck feels solid again. No more embarrassing clunks, squeaks, and burps!!!! :lol:

wow, this thread has been alive forever.... i really hope this will solve my problems..... i have a s-15 91 v6 4.3L jimmy and ive got this horrable clunk, i am really hopeing this will solve my problem, i just replaced my ball joints and let my shop do it this time cost me 400 bucks which i am not happy about, ive gotten so many other things replaced all mybushings replaced..... am not sure what i have done about my sway bar was going to check that....

My problem is; around turns i get this loud clunk that i can feel on the floor. i can feel it on the drivers side, but passengers say it is VERY noticable.
i will try the hood thing see if its loose at all tomorrow, and when i get some money see about the torsion bar mounts, or see if they are loose....

this should work with a 91 right?

wow, this thread has been alive forever.... i really hope this will solve my problems..... i have a s-15 91 v6 4.3L jimmy and ive got this horrable clunk, i am really hopeing this will solve my problem, i just replaced my ball joints and let my shop do it this time cost me 400 bucks which i am not happy about, ive gotten so many other things replaced all mybushings replaced..... am not sure what i have done about my sway bar was going to check that....

My problem is; around turns i get this loud clunk that i can feel on the floor. i can feel it on the drivers side, but passengers say it is VERY noticable.
i will try the hood thing see if its loose at all tomorrow, and when i get some money see about the torsion bar mounts, or see if they are loose....

this should work with a 91 right?

Clunking in an 1994 and earlier is usally due to the torsion bar mount pretty well under your driver's or passenger's seat.

Blazer LT - You are a genius!! :loser:

I tightened the hinge bolt on the passenger side and..........NO MORE NOISE!!!!!!! Thank you so much for posting this. I dropped off my truck at the local GM dealership and they kept my car for three days without finding the source of this noise. The work order said the technician lubed the wheel stops. I still heard the sound immediately after leaving the dealership. I was so mad that I didn't bother turning around to complain and lose my car for another few days. TheY fixed my fuel gauge issue and I'm happy about that but I don't understand why the technician didn't refer to the advisory concerning this issue. I fixed the problem myself in 15 minutes thanks to your post. Thanks again Blazer LT my truck feels solid again. No more embarrassing clunks, squeaks, and burps!!!! :lol:

Glad you all are happy. :)

99 Blazer Fuel Probs. There is very little fuel pressure in the lines. Is there a clog or is the pump going bad. I checked the fuel valve (on top near the carb.) and it drizzles out....

99 Blazer Fuel Probs. There is very little fuel pressure in the lines. Is there a clog or is the pump going bad. I checked the fuel valve (on top near the carb.) and it drizzles out....

Change your fuel pressure regulator.

99 Blazer Fuel Probs. There is very little fuel pressure in the lines. Is there a clog or is the pump going bad. I checked the fuel valve (on top near the carb.) and it drizzles out....
keep this on topic please :nono:. Post a thread in the problem diagnosis section.

Update: After tightening the bolts the sound went away for about two weeks
until I hit a really rough road under construction. The noise came back with a vengence. At least this time I knew where it was coming from thanks to BlazerLT's tip.

:banghead: :crying:
I then purchased the spring washers. I only had noise on the passenger side but I put the washers on both sides. Now everything is nice and snug. No slop. Still can't believe the dealership did not refer to their service advisories. Truck feels solid again despite all its quirks. At least one quirk is gone.
Thanks again BlazerLT :grinno: :) :ylsuper:

Update: After tightening the bolts the sound went away for about two weeks
until I hit a really rough road under construction. The noise came back with a vengence. At least this time I knew where it was coming from thanks to BlazerLT's tip.

:banghead: :crying:
I then purchased the spring washers. I only had noise on the passenger side but I put the washers on both sides. Now everything is nice and snug. No slop. Still can't believe the dealership did not refer to their service advisories. Truck feels solid again despite all its quirks. At least one quirk is gone.
Thanks again BlazerLT :grinno: :) :ylsuper:

*clicks heels* *salutes*

Blazer LT, I was wondering what was changed in 2004 as your original post states "from 9?-03". I have a 05 ZR2 with 77k that has a bad case of the clunks coming from the front drivers side, to the point of me crossing my fingers on washboard roads!! Intrestingly I checked the hood and have about an 1/8 of inch play on the PASSENGER side. Four year old thread still going strong... thanks in advance for any suggestions....

Blazer LT, I was wondering what was changed in 2004 as your original post states "from 9?-03". I have a 05 ZR2 with 77k that has a bad case of the clunks coming from the front drivers side, to the point of me crossing my fingers on washboard roads!! Intrestingly I checked the hood and have about an 1/8 of inch play on the PASSENGER side. Four year old thread still going strong... thanks in advance for any suggestions....

Probably the same thing. The cone washers should fix it right up. Good luck.

Might as well change the year to 1995-2005...... I did the fix and it worked flawlessly on my 05....... and I'm sure saved me some serious $$$$$$... thanks Blazer LT.

As a side note: truck returned the favour by turning on the CEL and unfortunatly unlike the clunk I don't think it will be a $10 fix. Thoughts and ideas welcome here http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=924387.