For those running Warn hubs, what washers did you put back into place from your original equipment.

I know that the snap ring goes back on, but I'm more curious about the following. For the purpose of common terminology lets label them as:

Left - Large bearing type washer
Center - Large flat washer
Right - Small splined washer

http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/410112washers.jpg

I WAS running none of the above, but saw the thread from Ian (XOC) about the splined washer so it got me thinking so I pulled mine apart today.

Any comments from those actually running these hubs would be greatly appreciated.

I swear I don't have either of the washers on the left...

Are those needle bearings in the far left one ?

Originally posted by xoc
I swear I don't have either of the washers on the left...

Are those needle bearings in the far left one ?

the far left is the needle bearing.

Is the far right the splined washer you were discussing in the other thread that Warn stated their instructions should have read "retain"?

Originally posted by xoc
I swear I don't have either of the washers on the left...



I don't recall seeing those washers either. I guess they could have been stuck somewhere to the automatic hub assembly, and I just don't remember them. :confused:

Look at those two bigger washers (one is a needle bearing?). There is actually two sets of those that go on either side of the auto hub mechanism. From what I can deduce those allow the auto hubs to "reverse" when your in 4x4 and you go from forward to reverse and vice versa.

Now, on the WARN hubs you'll notice raised lettering where those washers would go. Putting these washers in makes no sense. There is actually about 1/4 in. space between the hub preload locknut and the rear of the WARN hub. once installed. Also, what kind of sense would it make to put those needle bearing in contact with the raised lettered surface on the rear of the WARN hubs. Bottom line, no you don't need those 2 large washers. You can put them in, but since the gap is so large between the hub and hub body they do absolutely nothing.
Synchros instruction on the MAXC page show to put them in as do the WARN instructions, but from my experience I see they serve no purpose. The WARN instructions are way to broad and Synchros install was based off of those.

Yes the third washer is the "splined washer" and should be inserted behind the "snap ring". You might have to pull on the CV a bit to get both to fit. The CV has about 1/4 in. of play in and out.

Thus in summary,
Only need the "splined washer" and "snap ring.

Hope this helps

for the input guys. I'll be pulling mine apart this weekend again so I will install the "splined washer" as discussed. I agree with not needing the large washers but it seemed that the Warn instructions said to re-install those so I wanted to check with everyone else.

BTW, on the back side of the Warn hub there is a coiled snap ring that holds the inner splined portion of the hub that fits onto the axle. (this is already assembled when you purchase hubs) Well my coiled snap ring had come off thus the inner part of the hub slipped outward causing that hub to be engaged at all times. I mentioned this to 4 wheelers supply while trying to buy the service kit. The bad news is they didnt' have the service kits and therefore are ordering me 1 to use and another to have in my toolbox. The good news is that they gave me 1-hub under warranty since that coiled snap ring is installed at the factory.

My question is this. I could have been driving like this for a considerable amount of time and hit some highway speeds up around 85 sometimes. With the transfer in 2wd and the one hub locked it results in one axle turning but not the front driveshaft or other axle. My guess is the spider gears are doing about a gozillion rpm. Anyone think I've done considerable damage? My guess is since I don't utilize 4x4 near as much as the miles on my truck, I've just increased the wear factor of the front diff to catch up with the rest of the vehicle. What do you think?
:(

If the inner splines slipped all the way to the outer splines, the axle may not have been engaged at all.

If one hub was locked, the driveshaft would have been turning, and the opposite axle was probably turning in reverse due to friction.

I assumed the driveshaft part, but when the right front was jacked up I turned the wheel and the axle turned. I then checked the hub which was in 4x2, grabbed the axle to put resistance on it and tried again. The axle still turned, but I can't be certain whether the other axle was turning or not due to that hub being in 4x2 as well even though that wheel was on the groung it is possible it could have been turning.

That's what led me to pull that hub off and take a look. After removing the outer cover and taking the spring out, the inner part of the hub came off with the coiled snap ring following it. I then took the hub housing off to further inspect.

Soooooo, assuming your assessment is correct on what was tuning, back to my original question. What is your opinion regarding damage to my front diff?

I put both larger rings back but don't recall if I saw the small ones though

I agree with Kennedy that the 2 large washers (1 flat & the needle bearing one) are not necessary and after doing a brake job and re-packing my wheel bearings and greasing the hubs I ended up not installing those.

Also, I didn't put the splined washer back on behind the snap ring. My reason is this. I've ran many miles without it and had no sign of problems or any visible damage. Secondly, I tried to install it but when I put the hub on and tightened it down it had a jamming effect and was causing my axle to turn for some reason.

So I'll risk it and run without it.