1995 jetta throttle problems?,check engine light(how do you read codes)?

I have a 95 jetta with a 2.0 liter and a automatic trans.It has about 46,00 miles on it.I just purchased the car recentely.I got stranded on the freeway after the timing belt broke.I took it to a local repair shop ,a friend recomended.They fixed the timing belt the seals,and the belt tensioner.I went to pick the car up and it ran fine ,I went to leave and the check engine light came on.The manager said there scanner was broke,to bring the car back next week.well by the time i drove 20 miles on the freeway the car was sputtering and barely running.I limped it to auto zone the next week(the repair shop was unwilling to help,they said they fixed what they were suppose to,and cause no check engine light to come on!)Auto zone said they could not scan my engine code-something was wrong with the port?I got the car home and started looking over the engine.I found a vacum line disconected,and the bottom of the PCV filter/breather was broken off.I installed a new Pcv valve,cleaned th intake and throttle body with thottle body spray.I also reconected the vacum line.The car still doesnt run properelly.It will start normal,and idle normal.as soon as i get on the throttle it will start to spit and sputter.The only way to to get the rpm's up is to feather the throttle,or to ease into it by barely increasing the throttle and gradually letting the rpm's build.is there a way to check the check engine codes without a code scanner??????Also is there a way to check the th throttle positioning sensor?????Otherwise what else could be wrong??????

The belt broke at 46K miles? Something isn't right with that. Anyway, when they break there's always a chance the valves were bent, did they do a cylinder leakdown or compression test to check for that? If that's okay then if they weren't too familiar with the car they might have the timing off, particularly the distributor drive part. If it's off a tooth it will still run & the ECM will be able to compensate to a point, but once you start driving it may not be able to, that could explain the light. Your car is'nt OBD-II even though the connector looks like one. You can read the codes manually though, all you need is a jumper wire or a paper clip. You probably know the connector is located beside the ashtray, pull out the tray and slide the connector cover left. Turn on the ignition and insert the wire between pin #4 (top row fourth from left) and pin #15 (bottom row second from right) for about 3 seconds, then remove. The check engine light will flash once then begin to flash a series of four digit codes. e.g. code 2123 is 2 flashes pause 1 flash pause 2 flashes pause 3 flashes then a long pause between next code. Code 4444 is no problem found. It's not hard to do, so get them & post.

im having a similar problem with mine. i have a 95 jetta 5 speed 2.0 and i took it to 3 shops including autozone today and they say that they can only scan codes for a 96 and up. i have changed out my maf sensor, plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor, air filter, coil, had my throttle position sensor checked, and NOTHING!! the guy from autozone, called a vw place they said it is probably the cam positioning sensor which is on the distributor(this is what they told me). i will try this code testing that was posted with the jumper wire, hopefully it will tell the problem. goodluck..let me know what it was

The belt broke at 46K miles? Something isn't right with that. Anyway, when they break there's always a chance the valves were bent, did they do a cylinder leakdown or compression test to check for that? If that's okay then if they weren't too familiar with the car they might have the timing off, particularly the distributor drive part. If it's off a tooth it will still run & the ECM will be able to compensate to a point, but once you start driving it may not be able to, that could explain the light. Your car is'nt OBD-II even though the connector looks like one. You can read the codes manually though, all you need is a jumper wire or a paper clip. You probably know the connector is located beside the ashtray, pull out the tray and slide the connector cover left. Turn on the ignition and insert the wire between pin #4 (top row fourth from left) and pin #15 (bottom row second from right) for about 3 seconds, then remove. The check engine light will flash once then begin to flash a series of four digit codes. e.g. code 2123 is 2 flashes pause 1 flash pause 2 flashes pause 3 flashes then a long pause between next code. Code 4444 is no problem found. It's not hard to do, so get them & post.


I tried jumping the terminals like you sugested.I tunned on the ignition jumped the specified terminals and waited 3-4 seconds, removed the jumper.The check engine light went out and then it did nothing,it didint blink,or come back on.Once I turned the ignition off and then back on and started the car the light came right back on and stayed on(the car still runs bad)By the way the car initially runs good until it warms up,after about 3 minutes it starts to run bad.

The recommendations provided above are all excellent places to start. Also what you already did sounds right. Regarding the throttle position sensor, there may be a way to check (need to consult Bentley manual) however I do believe reading that it is a one unit item.

First, regarding checking the codes keep trying. The directions you were provided are correct but you are doing something either too slow or too fast. The light will blink like the user above says and it will return a code. Check under the rear seat to see if you find a little plug connector. A lot of cars came with it and it is the "tool" to check codes with. I went to the dealer, I told him that I read that my car should have one of these tools but does not and they found one that they gave me, however the tool is nothing more than the wire jumping those 2 terminals.

I would also recommend that you try to troubleshoot at vwvortex.com in their forums where you will find a lot of users who own a Bentley manual that may be able to provide more insight on your issue. I own the manual but I don't have it infront of me to look anything up right now.

From my behalf,
#1 - Did you consider that your exhaust may be blocked? On my '94, the honeycomb inside my catalytic converter had cracked and a piece was blocking the tailpipe. If I pressed hard on the gas, the flow of gas would push the broken piece in the pipe and restrict exhaust flow, if I were light on the gas, the gradual increase would prevent the piece from blocking my exhaust.

#2 - You own an automatic. If you EVER have any symptom of tranny problems, get rid of the car or convert it to a 5sp like I did. The early Jettas are infamous for having bad auto trannies. Mine went out at 86k miles and I converted to 5sp. I have about 112k miles now, the engine is in very good shape and I just changed my timing belt. 46k miles for a belt sounds weird. There are also three seals that you must change to prevent future oil leaks. They have to do with the intermediate shaft so make sure they also changed those.

I hope all of this helps,
good luck.

I dont know what i can be doing wrong?I tried scanning my codes several times.I dont belive I am goinig to fast or to slow,because I tried it a bunch of times with different time durrations(from 2-10 seconds)what would cause it not to respond properely?Please help-getting verry frustrated :banghead:

The wire must remain connected the entire time for the codes to display, dont take it out until it begins repeating codes. The wire should be inserted after the key has been turned to on position. If you insert it before you turn on the key it will erase the codes.

Okay time for a update-I tore into my jetta this morning.I removed the airbox,intake tube,ect.I then proceeded to remove plastic upper cover over timing belt-no problem .With that removed I took a wrench and turned the cam pulley until the mark on the timinig mark on the crank pulley lined up with the arrow on the lower plastic belt gaurd.I then checked the cam pulley and rotor location.The cam pulley was rotated a little(the timing mark is suppose to line up with "valley" betwwen two teeth were the timing mark on the cam pulley is located).It was actually located on the tip of the next
'tooth" clockwise from perfect.The rotor was positioned slightly counter clockwise from being alighned dead center with the timing mark on the distributor.Is the edge of the rotor suppose to line up with the timing mark or is the center of the rotor suppose to line up with the timing mark? Also is it okay that the cam pulley is rotated just a little like i described above?I loosened everything upand tried to reset the timing.I set the crank pulley-perfect,I then positioned the distibutor and the cam pulley.When i adjusted the belt tensioner everything stayed,except the cam pulley roted just slightly counter clockwise(again). I reinstalled airbox,ect. started car up-nothing changed,except engine light did not come on.car still runs bad when you try to give it gas.How much does it cost to get this car timned at a garrage/ B4 i did any of this I tried once again to retriev the check engine codes.I left the jumper plug in-tried it ,took it out tried it -no luck with any technique.Why cant I get the codes? But now the light is of so who knows

I didn't state the method clearly in that last post. After turning the ignition on only insert the wire for about 3 seconds, then remove it & wait for the codes. If it still wont start flashing then be sure you have the correct pins & be sure the light goes through it's self check on startup (comes on for a couple of seconds then goes out). If it's not on now it probably won't give any codes anyway. When you check the belt timing are you using the small 0 on the flywheel or the V notch to align with the transaxle housing pointer? The rotor should come out petty much centered over the notch in the distributor. The cam must be within 1/2 tooth of the mark (1/2 tooth advanced is preferred over 1/2 tooth retarded). Once you're sure that is set correctly you can go on to other system checks.

there is a straight line notch on the lower(crank) pulley that i am lining up with the arrow on the lower plastic timing belt cover.I did not see a small "O" on the pulley.Wich direction is advanced as far as the cam tooth?counterclockwise from the locating arrow or clockwise?Right now it sits 1/2 tooth counterclockwise with the crank pulley alighned to its mark.I think I must be getting close because the check engine light is off but car still runs like sh_t once it warms up

Clockwise would be advanced. Lets get the crankshaft issue cleared first though. The best thing to look at is the flywheel, through the inspection hole in the bell housing. Manuals have a plastic plug right at the top near the engine. Remove it then you will see that there is a V shaped pointer cast into the hole. Turn the crank until you see the V notch in the flywheel. Just past that you will find a hard to see small 0, which you align with the pointer. Automatics have a round hole for a special sensor and an elongated hole below that, neither have a plug. Turn the crank until you see a recessed line & a 0. Align the 0 with the bottom edge of the elongated hole.

okay,newest update.I went through the timing again this morning.I alighned the little circle(on the flywheel) halfway showing on the bottom of the bellhousing.Guess what the notched line on the crank pulley was alighned pefectly with the timing arrow.So ifigured I would set the cam 1/2 tooth advanced(clockwise) instead of !/2 tooth retarted(counterclockwise).whenI was done-rotor lined up dead center with notch,flywheel lined up perfect,crank pulley lined up perfect,cam lined up 1/2 tooth advanced.guess what car still runs like sh_t.idles fine starts fine,but the second you give it to much gas it wants to die!No check engine light.what do i do now????I belive the timing is correct and that is not the issue here anymore.HELP!

By the way what is the small pigtail that attached to the alternator harness.it is a short lead right by the back of the alternator.It has a green/blue wire and a brown/red wire that are about 4-5 inches long with a molex plug on the end????Is this suppose to plug into something or not,i couldn';t find were it would go???or is this for service/diagnostics :confused:

You can try unplugging the Mass Air Flow sensor & see if it runs better. Do you have a basic fuel pressure gauge? Check for tears in the air intake boot. Check the electrical contacts at the distributor connector.

I unplugged maf sensor -car died.no fuel pressure gauge.No tears in intake boot-car only has 43,790 miles on it.checked electrical connector on dist. plug -everything looks good.is it possible that because of the timing being off initially that the plugs are fouled?but this doesnt make any sense-I can rev it to redline smoothly as long as i dont give it to much throttle.How about clogged fuel injectors??there was the oil issue from the busted pcv valve-remember?????

anyone want to buy a 95 jetta with less than 44,000miles and a minor tuning problem?

Have you closely loked at the coil for signs of arcing, or sprayed it with water to see if it arcs? How about the plug wires, have you pulled each one from the cap & coil to check for burnt ends? Eehokie's idea about checking the catalytic converter isn't bad either, hit it with a rubber hammer & listen for anything rattling inside.

Yes I have got it!!!!!!!Bad timing = fouled plugs.The repair shop messed up the timing when they installed the new timing belt,therefor the fuel/air mixture was off.this caused the plugs to foul!! :mad: After I corrected the timing,and the plugs the car runs great =) =) Thanks for everyones help and suggestions I couldn't have done it with out you =) :cool: :D ;) :P :laugh: