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1997 Geo Metro LSi 4 cyl auto


ph03n1x
08-27-2004, 07:52 PM
Hello, I recently (uh...2 weeks?) purchased the above Geo. I already like this car alot. Even though 4 days after I got it a solenoid in the tranny seems to have gone out. I've been babying it along since then but now a new problem seems to have surfaced.

The car has no desire to run. I was on my way to work and 1/3rd of the way there, I went to give it gas and nothing. I pulled into a driveway, hit the ignition a couple of times (3 at the most) and got back on my way. Then it died at about the half way mark and a third time at the 3/4 mark. Didn't try to hit it again for a few minutes because I was calling my boss. hit it again and drove 100 feet and it died again. Got out and pushed it 3 block, sat there for 10 minutes. Started it and drove up the big hill that had stoped me from pushing it farther. Stopped at a car wash, let her rest while I washed her. Got in and drove the 4 remaining blocks to my friends house. When I got here I let it idle for a good ten minutes while I waited for it to die and eventually gave up and went inside to ?enjoy? my unexpected day off. This morning when I came over I got in and started it ran for 15 seconds and died. Can anyone suggest the order I should check things. I haven't heard any noise out of the fuel pump, but before I did that I wanted to see if there is a fuse pump relay that I might want to check. I thought I saw something somewhere that said that the fuel pump is outside of the gas tank, please tell me this is true...please? Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.

geozukigti
08-28-2004, 09:37 AM
Geo's are picky, like cats. If they don't like you, they'll hiss and scratch at you :iceslolan lol. 99% of the time, a fuel pump either runs, or it doesn't. You may have a clogged fuel filter. If you know anyone with a A/F gauge, you can see if your car is running lean. Give her a good tune-up. Plugs, wires, dist cap and rotor. Also, see if you can find a MAP sensor. They have a tendancy to give trouble if they collect moisture from sitting, or wet environments. It really does sound like a funky distributor cap. If the center lead is worn, it will arc, and you'll get a crappy spark, almost in-capable of lighting the gas, or no spark at all. Also, run a compression test, just to make sure you don't have a blown headgasket or anything like that. Pull the spark plugs, and make sure they're all tan. If they're white, or green, you've got a problem. Also, if they're wet, or just black. You've got a biiig problem. But do the tune up first. Get some nice Bosch plugs. Wires are about $25, plugs are about $6 for all 3, and the cap and rotor are about $14. If it doesn't fix it, it probably needs them anyways. Let us know the results after the tune-up, and if you so desire to go into it, the fuel filter (behind the rear drivers side control arm next to the gas tank)

ph03n1x
08-29-2004, 04:11 AM
Let us know the results after the tune-up, and if you so desire to go into it, the fuel filter (behind the rear drivers side control arm next to the gas tank)

The plan for today was to replace the fuel pump and filter. But sitting in the parking lot of the parts store I decided to go ahead and check everything that I could.

So here's what I found out- Fuel pump is pumping, filter is filtering. So I moved up to the engine compartment- plug ends are a nice tan color, all 4 plugs are getting spark. We also poked around in the carb a bit. Is it normal for the factory to lock-tite the screws that mount the throttle body injector connector? And how much pressure should there be above the injector? when we finally loosened it there was enough pressure to spray an open hand sized spot of gas on the plastic at the bottom of the windshield. I'm giving us a week to figure this out. I think that I'll wait till I get paid on Friday, then load her onto a trailer and take her to the shop. They gave me a quote of $450 (p+l) for the tranny solenoid. So I guess I'll just give it to them for a couple of weeks and hope that I can have the cash to pay them when she's done. Any idea of what the name of the solenoid in the tranny it is that I'm talking about? Thanks for the help and suggestions.

ph03n1x
08-30-2004, 11:46 PM
Would it be possible that this could be because of catalytic conv problems? And how common is it for a throttle bottle injector to go bad? That's as far as we went through the fuel sys. The injector has gas supply, but it isn't spraying past that. I dunno, these things frustrate me. Help.....?

revrew12
08-31-2004, 09:22 AM
My 97 4cyl is sitting in my driveway in storage right now for similar problems. Damn finicky thing starts sometimes, not others. I've got a thread on here myself about it.

geozukigti
08-31-2004, 09:34 AM
Could be a bad injector, or just a bad injector resistor. They'll both cause the injector to stop spraying. If you have a metro manual, it'll give you the steps, and the specs on how to test, and what specs are normal for the injector and resistor.

ph03n1x
09-02-2004, 11:35 PM
And where might I find one of these manuals?

I already have a chiltons, it's kinda a ritual. Everytime I buy a new car I go buy the chiltons for it. So far I have one for a 93 chevy lumina, a 78 ford truck, and the geo, now. My first car was a 73 beetlr, and I have the idiots guide, the actual book is in storage. But the book reads like it was written by a stoner, and it is a Volkswagen......

ph03n1x
09-07-2004, 04:03 PM
Just for an update. I went to poke and prod at the Geo a couple of days ago. When I walked around to the front of the car there was a nice puddle of an oil/gas mix that had been leaking slowly out somewhere. Checked the dipstick and there was not alot of oil, but definately smelled of gas. So, Changed the oil and filter, and let it sit most of the afternoon while I worked up the cahjones to turn the key. When I did the first time she hit like she wanted to start. So I turned the key a little longer and gave it some gas. And for the first time in a week she started. I ran her for 3 10 minute intervals, and she started stronger each time. All seems to well for the most part. No puddles on the ground yet, I need to check the oil still though. But yea....I'm still confused.

qreturn
09-14-2004, 10:19 AM
there must be something about the 97 metro's that is causing this problem. i have a 97 with about the same identical problem. i have fuel pressure, replaced the computer (the old one was bad), replaced a kind of relay that is under the egr modulator on the back side of the engine (if anybody knows the name of this, let me know), have cleaned out the egr valve and replaced the fuel filter. the problem lies somewhere in the throttle body itself. my car will run fine then without warning will all of a sudden lose all power in the gas pedal. the engine is still running but at the idle speed. if you try to give it gas, the engine sounds like it is being flooded and drops in rpm. as you are pulling over to the curb the engine will die. it may or maynot restart. in order to try to restart, you have to pull the air filter cover because the iat sensor will be showing a high imput message. the warmer it is outside, the worse it is. during cooler weather, no problem. i understand that these kinds of fuel delivery systems cannot vaporlock, but that is exactly what it is acting like. i don't know, but may come down to totally replacing the entire tbi unit itself. i get the feeling that under the bottom of the tbi unit where the egr valve connects is clogged with carbon. by the way, i didn't hear anyone mention what codes they where getting with a scanner. i bet you are getting a 113 and a 400 code. let me know if i am right about this. in the meantime, do we have any clues about this? by the way, i have also replaced the iat sensor too. :banghead: :banghead:

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