99 blazer,security light random, will start but no run

blazer has aftermarket remote start that is now disconnected to "find" problem--blazer randomly will not run( will turn over and start) but acts like no fuel getting through. Usually able to start using the remote key however. One mechanic said the code showed no key recognized even though he had it started with the remote and key was in ignition. He suggested having a dealer "refrag" the computer. Dealer passed it off(couldnt duplicate not starting problem) to the RS(thus we disconnected it). Since disc. the security light comes on and stays on then goes away. 2nd tech suggested it was the ignition module not recognizing the key. Today it ran fine during errands. When I went to leave again, my problem of no go returned. Have checked fuses--all fine. Fuel pressue previously tested fine. New Alternator recently as well. Has been sitting in driveway now for 8 hours with no luck of running. HELP! Fuel pump? Ignition Module?

check the negative terminal on the battery and clean and retighten.

Get your coil checked.

Check for broken wires.

check the negative terminal on the battery and clean and retighten.

Get your coil checked.

Check for broken wires.

Thanks Man! lifesaver!

It sounds like you fixed the problem but I am just wondering if it starts with just the remote start? Did you install the passlock II bypass module for the remote start and program it for your ignition?

Thanks Man! lifesaver!

It fixed it?

It fixed it?
There's no way it did. It sure sounds like the notorious PK2 no start condition. I mean, he did state that it would start, stall and that the security light was on.

There's no way it did. It sure sounds like the notorious PK2 no start condition. I mean, he did state that it would start, stall and that the security light was on.
Okay here's the deal. I cleaned the battery cables and retightened them, then started the motor. No security light. I figured great. I just drove to the store it came back on again. I found a procedure outlining the "theft deterrent password relearn" for the so called "PK2 no start condition". Please take a look. http://www.bsecorp.com/files/techtips/ST9303l.pdf

Basically what that says is that if you have a key made make sure it's the right kind of key and do the relearn procedure or the fuel will be cut off from the engine when you try to start it.

I did get a replacement key that I've been using from ACE Hardware about 5 months ago. Problems just recently started occuring. Way to go on the theft deterrent GM!

Also see http://www.hillmangroup.com/transponder.htm

According to the above pdf. my blazer uses the passkey 3 system. I put the original key back in and ran the procedure. Nipped it in the bud! Now if I can just figure out why the horn isn't working.

Okay here's the deal. I cleaned the battery cables and retightened them, then started the motor. No security light. I figured great. I just drove to the store it came back on again. I found a procedure outlining the "theft deterrent password relearn" for the so called "PK2 no start condition". Please take a look. http://www.bsecorp.com/files/techtips/ST9303l.pdf

Basically what that says is that if you have a key made make sure it's the right kind of key and do the relearn procedure or the fuel will be cut off from the engine when you try to start it.

I did get a replacement key that I've been using from ACE Hardware about 5 months ago. Problems just recently started occuring. Way to go on the theft deterrent GM!

Also see http://www.hillmangroup.com/transponder.htm

According to the above pdf. my blazer uses the passkey 3 system. I put the original key back in and ran the procedure. Nipped it in the bud! Now if I can just figure out why the horn isn't working.
Sorry but you didn't fix anything, well, not what I am aware of. That link you have to me is wrong. It had the pictures of the keys and such. Well, those are all wrong. VATS is the one with the chip in the key. PK1, and 2 are visibly the same looking key. PK3 should look like that big key they show but it will actually say PK3 in the metal part right next the head of the key.

Your Blazer has PK2 period. The "code" is in the ignition lock and not in the key. You should be able to use any copy and should work fine. With VATS, you have to match the resistance and with PK3, you have to learn the key codes to the car. I know this for sure because I own a bizz that specializes in remote starters. You can look at a manual for a bypass that I use on your car. http://directechs.com/guides/manuals/ig/accessories/N555L_7-02B.pdf

Sorry but you didn't fix anything, well, not what I am aware of. That link you have to me is wrong. It had the pictures of the keys and such. Well, those are all wrong. VATS is the one with the chip in the key. PK1, and 2 are visibly the same looking key. PK3 should look like that big key they show but it will actually say PK3 in the metal part right next the head of the key.

Your Blazer has PK2 period. The "code" is in the ignition lock and not in the key. You should be able to use any copy and should work fine. With VATS, you have to match the resistance and with PK3, you have to learn the key codes to the car. I know this for sure because I own a bizz that specializes in remote starters. You can look at a manual for a bypass that I use on your car. http://directechs.com/guides/manuals/ig/accessories/N555L_7-02B.pdf

You're right, absolutely nothing is fixed. I used my spare key all day today and the security light never came on. It looks like I'm back to square one, why is the damn thing on in the first place? Has the ignition gone bad? You're saying the only way it's going to get it fixed is if I put a bypass on it or replace the ignition lock?

You definately need a bypass if you have a remote starter. If not the remote shouldn't start it. I was having the same issue with mine a while back. It turned out my battery went bad and was leaking around the positive terminal. I replaced the battery and haven't seen the security light since. Nock on wood!