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350 to 383 help


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Stroked it
08-07-2004, 11:22 PM
Ok i've got a 350 (who dosn't) in my 79' Monte Carlo but i really want to make it to a 383. What do i have to do to it??? What parts will i need? Will this take machining, and if so, how much will the whole lot cost, (built good). Any input would help.

Peace

quaddriver
08-08-2004, 12:42 AM
You will need either


A crank from a 400sbc which will need either

The journals cut down to 2.45" to fit in the 350 block saddles or
the block main saddles and caps rebored (very '$pensive)

or one of the new stroker cranks from summit, lunati etc......which have the corrct jounal diameters
The 350 block bored .030
pistons in 4.030 that have the wrist pin moved to allow 5.56, 5.7, or 6" rods
the correct rods.
A lot of balancing. the 350 is internally balanced, the 400 crank is not, therefore you need a hybrid balancer and flywheel/flexplate for the 400 crank, or if using a stroker crank, the proper harmonic etc

Stroked it
08-08-2004, 05:41 PM
That helps some, i would use the pre-made 383 crank, bore the block .030. bigger pistons, 4.030". What size rods do i need,and is boring the only machine work that needs done,,, if not please go into detail (15yrs old first car). what do you mean by the wrist pins moved??? and im looking to run around about 91 pump gas, is 9.5.1 a good compression ratio???

quaddriver
08-08-2004, 08:09 PM
You need to hend down to the mall and find a bookstore and find any of the 'motorbooks international' publications of what to do with chevy v8s. all your questions are in there and prevent me from typing them.

There has to be a balance between parts cost and machine work cost. If you go for an existing crank, then the machine shop time goes up, if you go for a new crank, then parts price goes up. In all cases the .030 overbore is a given and you have to choose a rod, 5.56/3.75 will be the lowest rod/stroke length, 6/3.75 will be the highest. Since 5.7 rods are the most common, and unless beaten or bent, never wear out, just use 5.7 rods, the proper piston set (to keep the piston from coming up above the engine deck, or ending too low, the wrist pin location must move when stroke/rod length are altered.)

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