Intermediate Shaft Steering Clunk

Anyone had the dealer tell you the intermediate shaft clunk of the steering can be fixed with grease?
Is this normal??


Thanks in Advance

02 silverado 4.8

Noise from Steering at Low Speeds #PI00299 - (07/30/2002)
Noise from Steering at Low Speeds
.When servicing the vehicle with the VIN you entered, the following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the described symptoms.

Condition/Concern:
Rattle, noise emanating from the steering column, particularly during low speed parking lot maneuvers.

Recommendation/Instructions:
Verify noise is from stub shaft bearing area.
Replace stub shaft bearing with kit part number 26099860.
Also, a special tool is required to complete the repair. You must use Essential Tool J-45798 to avoid damage to the bearing seal. The repair procedures are available in SI (Service Information) to install the new bearing


Clunking Noise Under Hood and Can Be Felt In the steering wheel (Lubricate Intermediate Steering Shaft Assembly) #00-02-35-003B - (01/24/2003)
Clunking Noise Under Hood and can be felt in the Steering wheel (Lubricate Intermediate Steering Shaft Assembly)
2002-2003 Cadillac Escalade, Escalade EXT

1999-2003 Chevrolet Silverado

2000-2003 Chevrolet Suburban, Tahoe

2002-2003 Chevrolet Avalanche

1999-2003 GMC Sierra

2000-2003 GMC Yukon, Yukon XL

2003 HUMMER H2

With Recirculating Ball-Type Steering

This bulletin is being revised to add model years and models and Correction information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 00-02-35-003A (Section 02 -- Steering).

Condition
Some customers may comment on a clunk type noise coming from under the hood that also can be felt in the steering wheel. These conditions may be more noticeable when turning at low speeds on rough road surfaces.

Correction

Important
DO NOT REPLACE THE FOLLOWING INTERMEDIATE STEERING SHAFT P/Ns

26085548
26049343
26083324
26088325
15772436
26078079

Remove the intermediate shaft from the vehicle and lubricate the intermediate shaft with a Steering Column Intermediate Shaft Lubrication Kit, P/N 26098419. Follow the service procedure below.

Set the front wheels in the straight-ahead position.
Set the steering wheel in the LOCK position.



From inside the vehicle, remove the upper bolt from the upper intermediate steering shaft (1) to the steering column connection.



From under the hood, remove the lower bolt that connects the upper intermediate shaft to the steering gear coupling shaft.
Remove the upper intermediate steering shaft assembly.
From inside the vehicle, slide the shaft down and off the steering column shaft.
From under the hood, slide the shaft towards the dash in order to disengage the shaft from the steering gear coupling shaft.
From inside the vehicle, slide the upper intermediate shaft through the dash boot seal and remove the shaft from the vehicle.




Remove the spacer clip from the end of the intermediate shaft with a pair of needle nose pliers.
Fully extend the shaft by pulling the two shafts apart.



Apply the syringe of grease supplied in the Steering Column Intermediate Shaft Lubrication Kit, P/N 26098419, into the open end of the shaft. Direct the syringe tip as deep as possible into the shaft and dispense the full content of the syringe.



Insert the plug supplied in the Steering Column Intermediate Shaft Lubrication Kit into the open end of the shaft and finger tighten the wing nut.



Place the plugged end of the shaft on a hard surface and apply pressure to collapse the shaft and dissipate the grease through the shaft.
Remove the plug from the shaft and fully extend the shaft.



Inspect the shaft for a minimum of 13 mm (1/2 in) of grease on the shaft splines.
Repeat steps 10-12 if less than 13 mm (1/2 in) of grease is on shaft splines.
Clean the excess grease off of the shaft splines and around the shaft opening.



Carefully spread apart the spacer clip with a pair of pliers.



Reinstall the spacer clip into the open end of the shaft.



Align the spacer clip with the stakes in the shaft.
Reinstall the upper intermediate steering shaft through the dash boot seal and slide the lower end into the steering gear coupling shaft.
Raise the upper end of the intermediate steering shaft and install into the steering column shaft.
Install the upper bolt and nut. Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 47 N·m(35 lb ft).

Install the lower bolt and nut. Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 50 N·m(37 lb ft).

Parts Information
Part Number
Description
Qty

26098419
Lubrication Kit, Steering Column Intermediate Shaft
1

Yes a close friend of mine had the same problem and the dealer told him to grease it. It did work and as far as i know it is common. My friend has a 99 Z71 i dont know how much changed between 99 and 2002 but If it is not the same steering system it is probably similar.

I had the grease job on my 03 2500HD Duramax and so far it has held for about 6kmiles. However I read a post on TheDieselPlace.com forum (TSB Section) that GM has a new replacement shaft and that they no longer recommend the grease job as a fix.

TSB is as follows:

Clunking Noise Under Hood and Can Be Felt In Steering Wheel (Replace Upper Intermediate Steering Shaft Assembly) #00-02-35-003E - (Jul 20, 2004)
Clunking Noise Under Hood and can be felt in Steering Wheel (Replace Upper Intermediate Steering Shaft Assembly)

2002-2003 Cadillac Escalade, Escalade EXT
2003 Cadillac Escalade ESV
1999-2003 Chevrolet Silverado
2000-2003 Chevrolet Suburban, Tahoe
2002-2003 Chevrolet Avalanche
1999-2003 GMC Sierra
2000-2003 GMC Yukon, Yukon XL
2003 HUMMER H2
with Recirculating Ball-Type Steering
This bulletin is being revised to include the replacement of the intermediate shaft . Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 00-02-35-003D (Section 02 -- Steering).

Condition
Some customers may comment on a clunk-type noise coming from under the hood that also can be felt in the steering wheel. These conditions may be more noticeable when turning at low speeds on rough road surfaces.

Correction
Replace the steering column upper intermediate shaft with an improved design shaft that will eliminate the clunk noise using the procedure listed below.

Parts Information
Part Number 88963611: Shaft, Upper Intermediate ShaftUse on all 1500 Series trucks:Except EscaladesExcept DenalisExcept Avalanches

Part number 89060582: Shaft, Upper Intermediate ShaftUse on all 2500 and 3500 Series Trucks and EscaladesDenalisAvalanchesH2

:)

Quote..
However I read a post on TheDieselPlace.com forum (TSB Section) that GM has a new replacement shaft and that they no longer recommend the grease job as a fix..

If it is in a 03 would this be covered by the warranty,>?

That is exactaly what I was feeing on the 03
I test drove last Sat..

Just discovered this forum. I'm looking for info about how close GM is to either issuing a recall or offering no-cost replacement for the defective Intermediate Shaft design that affects (I think) 2000 to 2003 Chevy trucks. It's pretty obvious from all the chatter that there are hundreds of thousands of instances of these shafts wearing out and causing the clunking noise, especially on turns. My dealer has been backordered since October 2004 on this part. He says because I didn't report it before my 36,000 mile warranty ran out, GM won't pay for the repair. Wondering if the Dept. of Transportation or other agency knows about the size of this problem.

Just discovered this forum. I'm looking for info about how close GM is to either issuing a recall or offering no-cost replacement for the defective Intermediate Shaft design that affects (I think) 2000 to 2003 Chevy trucks. It's pretty obvious from all the chatter that there are hundreds of thousands of instances of these shafts wearing out and causing the clunking noise, especially on turns. My dealer has been backordered since October 2004 on this part. He says because I didn't report it before my 36,000 mile warranty ran out, GM won't pay for the repair. Wondering if the Dept. of Transportation or other agency knows about the size of this problem.


Is the D.O.T the proper authority on issues like this? The only thing I have ever seen or heard of this agency doing , is giving me and other coworkers random drugtest all the time.I always wondered why the DOT would be interested in testing all employees (even the non-driver employee's)

The dealer replaced my clunky steering shaft or rather replaced some parts of it which made the clunking noise stop. Mine is under warranty still ,now if the electrical crap with the turn signals and power seats and wipers would go away I might keep it (2003 Z71 Tahoe) have had it fixed like seven times since buying it ....

I complained about mine rattling at least three times. I have the receipts from two of the times when they "fixed" the problem.

My question is: Do you think that Chevy will give me a new shaft since I had this reoccuring problem while under warranty?(even though my truck is now out of warranty)
The clunk returned quite a while ago and has gotten worse recently/
Thanks,
Jeb

I complained about mine rattling at least three times. I have the receipts from two of the times when they "fixed" the problem.

My question is: Do you think that Chevy will give me a new shaft since I had this reoccuring problem while under warranty?(even though my truck is now out of warranty)
The clunk returned quite a while ago and has gotten worse recently/
Thanks,
Jeb

SEEMS THEY HAVE ALREADY GIVEN YOU THE SHAFT..

huh good ?? I would think they would
Dose the problems with theses trucks Ever stop...

YES!,....actually they did give it to me. I went to my local dealership this morning. At first they said no, but I called GM Customer Assistance, who called them for me and then they said yes. The service manager ordered me a new steering shaft and it wasn't near as painful as I had imagined.
-Jeb

gm will fix this part free of charge untill 60,000 miles ... ask your dealer ... mine told me the other day

I'm waiting on back order about 2 months now. They are replacing them though.

gm will fix this part free of charge untill 60,000 miles ... ask your dealer ... mine told me the other day

Is this quote still true?! I'd like to get mine taken care of before I hit that mark.

Is this quote still true?! I'd like to get mine taken care of before I hit that mark.


i was told this by the service manager 2 months ago while i was having a radio programmed ..... i brought it up just to see if they were doing anything about it .........

Appreciate the info... looks like I'll be visiting the local dealership on Friday.

Okay folks sounds like I'm not the only one have this problem. I have a 2001 Tahoe that has given good service except for the intermediate shaft. The first one was replaced 2 months after I bought it and had been greased twice since and was replaced again(per the dealer paperwork) Feb 2005. Yep you guessed it, somethings gotta be done again. Has there been any new guidelines or anything Chevy is doing thats working now.

Sam

I have a 2001 Tahoe.
I had the repair done at the dealer a few years ago and I think they replaced the shaft at that time. Now the noise has returned. I went to the dealer parts department and they said that they do not replace the shafts any longer and that they just lube them.
I bought the lube kit and will follow the TSB for removing the shaft and greasing it.
They say that there is no way to install a grease fitting on it.

There is another thread here which refers to an after mrket shaft with vibration dampener...this fixed the problem for that person. I just live with it.

SEEMS THEY HAVE ALREADY GIVEN YOU THE SHAFT..

huh good ?? I would think they would
Dose the problems with theses trucks Ever stop... Had an 03 tahoe under warranty they said it was fixed. I picked it up after hours Saturday and took it back Monday morning. I had the service manager follow me out and I layed on the parking lot crawled on my back under it and grabed the pitman arm and shook it up and down making it rattle and said that is my problem.I picked it up Monday evening fixed. Since then I've bought 2 .05 duramax's a 3500 and a 2500 I just had the 2500 fixed. If they don't want to fix it try the number to G.M.in the back of you'r owners manual.

SEEMS THEY HAVE ALREADY GIVEN YOU THE SHAFT..

huh good ?? I would think they would
Dose the problems with theses trucks Ever stop... Had an 03 tahoe under warranty they said it was fixed. I picked it up after hours Saturday and took it back Monday morning. I had the service manager follow me out and I layed on the parking lot crawled on my back under it and grabed the pitman arm and shook it up and down making it rattle and said that is my problem.I picked it up Monday evening fixed. Since then I've bought 2 .05 duramax's a 3500 and a 2500 I just had the 2500 fixed. If they don't want to fix it try the number to G.M.in the back of you'r owners manual.

I've read the TSB for greasing the intermediate steering shaft, as outlined in this post, however, the TSB is for Silverado's up to 2003. Does the same 'kit' work for 2004 Silverado's, or is it a different P/N? Also, how much is this kit and do they provide the 'special tool' required? And finally, is this something I should let the dealer install, or is it relatively easy to do? I have a 2004 1500 Z71 Crew Cab with 50K miles and this clunk is driving me nuts!

Hey guys,
Just went by the GM parts house this morning here in Big D and I was told the grease kit had been discontinued and was to be replaced with a redesigned shaft that is coming down the pipe...

my 2002 silverado has the clunk. I plan on doing something about it, but in the meantime, am I creating alot of extra wear and tear or putting myself in danger by continuing to use the vehicle? I work on the road, so...

thanks,
sam

I have a 2003 and had it to the dealer twice while under warranty. The first time they added grease, the second time they were supposed to have put the new shaft in but GM put a hold on that fix. I went back a few months ago and the service manager gave me a copy of the new bulletin that stated do not grease, or replace the shaft. Instead remove the connecting bolt, and stroke the shaft 8-10 times in the steering column and replace the bolt. I went home and it took a whole ten minutes, but the problem's fixed until next year. My guess is the grease settles down to the bottom of the column and the noise of the metal to metal contact is magnified through the column.

So what you are saying is that your stroked your truck's shaft? You sick person.. I think you are a little too involved with your truck. LOL

I replaced the shaft with the new one, it worked great for about a year and the new one is back to doing what the original one did, clunk and vibrate. They didn't really fix anything, they just gave you a new one and it just took a few twists and turns for the grease to wear down and you have the same problem on your hands again. I'm still trying to figure out how to fix it.

So what you are saying is that your stroked your truck's shaft? You sick person.. I think you are a little too involved with your truck. LOL

That was the exact wording on the GM bulletin. What the hell it solved the problem,for now.

According to this advertisement there is a new steering shaft to fix this. It's about $60.

"GM has finally came up with a new design steering shaft for the clunking noise in your 1999-2007 GM truck. The part number is 19153614."

https://www.partszoneonline.com/index.php

Are you sure that is not just a replacement and not a fix?

Are you sure that is not just a replacement and not a fix?

I don't really know except the ad says it's a new design to fix the clunk. I'm hoping a GM Certified mechanic or parts guy on this forum can tell me.
Can we get that to happen?

According to this advertisement there is a new steering shaft to fix this. It's about $60.

"GM has finally came up with a new design steering shaft for the clunking noise in your 1999-2007 GM truck. The part number is 19153614."

https://www.partszoneonline.com/index.php

Looking at the picture on the posted link it looks like this part replaces the guts of the steering column. It has the knuckle for the tilt wheel which means the seering wheel and air bag will have to be removed. Looks like a big job for the do it yourselfer if you've never messed with this type of repair before.

According to this advertisement there is a new steering shaft to fix this. It's about $60.

"GM has finally came up with a new design steering shaft for the clunking noise in your 1999-2007 GM truck. The part number is 19153614."

https://www.partszoneonline.com/index.php

I had this same problem on my '03 Silverado. Removing and replacing the shaft is very easy - if you don't mind laying on your back under the dash to get at the bolt on one end and bending over the fender to get at the bolt on the other end. The book says you need to remove the throttle pedal first (which I did - two nuts and it pulls out). The whole thing is really pretty easy. Just be sure to lock the steering wheel so you don't get things mis-aligned. "Stroking" the old one had no effect. Adding grease worked for a week or two. The new shaft has worked great for several months - I've almost forgotten about the whole thing! I purchased the new shaft in April.

Art

Hey Art,

Did you use instructions from a Haynes auto repair manual? So your saying you don't have to remove the steering wheel? And your convinced this is a newly designed part...not subjected to grease migration?

Thanks for any more installation tips you can give us!

Mike

Just did mine in my '05. No need to remove the steering wheel and I didn't even remove the gas pedal but that would probably make it easier to get them in/out.

Literally two bolts - don't let the steering wheel spin and your done. Hardest part is getting a wrench on the nut/bolt inside. Took me 15-20 mins max.

I had the steering shaft replaced about two years ago, was supposed to be the "new" design to fix the clunk and it clunks just as bad as the original. I'll have to see if the part number is on the paperwork, if I can find it. But it looks as if they have an even newer redesign?

Kris

Hey Art,

Did you use instructions from a Haynes auto repair manual? So your saying you don't have to remove the steering wheel? And your convinced this is a newly designed part...not subjected to grease migration?

Thanks for any more installation tips you can give us!

Mike

I used the factory Chevy shop manual. No need to remove the steering wheel - just lock it into place so it doesn't turn while you have the shaft disconnected. The new shaft sure looked like a different design, so hopefully it will last. My original lasted for 50K miles, so even if the new one lasts that long, I'll be OK for a long time. It really was an easy job - just awkward to lie under the dash for one end and reach into the engine compartment for the other.

Art

I had the steering shaft replaced about two years ago, was supposed to be the "new" design to fix the clunk and it clunks just as bad as the original. I'll have to see if the part number is on the paperwork, if I can find it. But it looks as if they have an even newer redesign?

Kris
Just found the bulletin that I talked about earlier in the forum,"stroke the shaft", and it says do not replace the following intermediate shaft part numbers any more,P/N88965505,P/N89060582, and P/N19149105. Also states do not lubricatethe shaft, P/N26098419. So it looks like these are the part numbers of the shaft and related items that the dealers were installing. It looks like the 'partszoneonline number' 19153614 is a new replacement.

I have a 2006 2500hd (25000 miles) that for the last 2 weeks have been fighting with the dealer about the clunk and looseness in the steering wheel. They replace the shaft and it was still there. I took it back then they added some washers to a cross member and did an alignment. For one day no clunking or popping, but a pull to the left when braking. It went back the dealer can not find anything wrong with it and said that the alignment was still good. I got it back Saturday and have had 2 different people drive it and they find the same problem that I complain about to the dealer. There is nothing done to the truck other than 285 tires. I even drove used trucks on the lot to see if they had the same feeling as mine, I did not notice them doing the same thing I even told the service manager what I did with the used trucks.

Has anyone been told that the steering wheel does not lock anymore? yesterday checked the steering and was able to move a tire and see the wheel turn. I went to the dealed and was told that it has not locked for 5 -6 years now.

I was told the wheel does not lock anymore for the last 5-6 years (by the dealer).

I have on 05 hd 2500 w/ 41k on it. I ahd my truck in twice when it was under warr. Had the clunk repaired twice with grease. The problem came back as I thought it would. I took it back to dealer yesterday and they replaced the shaft with no questions. They told me that any reputable dealer (with high gm customer ratings) is given the greenlight by gm to make the call based on customers attitude, condition of the vehicle, prior documentation, etc. I actually had a good experience at the dealer, imagine that. The steering os so much better with new shaft.....good luck

They told me that any reputable dealer (with high gm customer ratings) is given the greenlight by gm to make the call based on customers attitude, condition of the vehicle, prior documentation, etc. I actually had a good experience at the dealer, imagine that. The steering os so much better with new shaft.....good luck
Had mine replaced in Jan. 06 with part #89060582 for $190. Took in in today to have unrelated service work done and after reading therink's post quoted above I mentioned to the service rep that I've been getting some slight intermediate shaft rattle along with some steering groaning noise when making very low speed sharp turns. They ended up replacing it again this time with part #19153614 and at no cost. Granted the part should have never failed in the first place but to get it replaced free 22 months and 14k miles later is a good thing.

I had my Silverado's intermediate steering shaft replaced no more than an hour ago with part number 19153614. The problem does not stop in 2003...mine is a 2006, and the only way to remedy the problem is to replace it with the latest redesigned part. I have also had numerous other problems with my truck such as the bolted joint in the body mounts coming loose and making noise (there were no washers designed in this bolted joint), and noise resulting from faulty a/c system parts. Overall, there seem to be some very poor design decisions made by GM engineers - and their reliability engineers did not catch and fix any of these problems, either. Please do complete research, analysis, and testing before releasing a product. Basic bolted joint knowledge would tell you that the body mount system would require washers to eliminate vibrations and bolt stretch. This new truck has caused more headache and heartburn than my '89 Crown Victoria that has 204,000 miles on it. I will likely never own another new GM truck.

I just had my shaft replaced with the p/n 19153614 shaft, I still have a rattle that comes from behind the guage cluster. Any ideas ? ( 05 Silverado 4.8l )

my 2003 1500 4x4 need the shaft replaced at about 5k miles(shaky steering wheel)....fortunately still under warranty....the dealer was DEFINITELY familiar with the problem!!

Anyone had the dealer tell you the intermediate shaft clunk of the steering can be fixed with grease?
Is this normal??


Thanks in Advance

02 silverado 4.8

Noise from Steering at Low Speeds #PI00299 - (07/30/2002)
Noise from Steering at Low Speeds
.When servicing the vehicle with the VIN you entered, the following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the described symptoms.

Condition/Concern:
Rattle, noise emanating from the steering column, particularly during low speed parking lot maneuvers.

Recommendation/Instructions:
Verify noise is from stub shaft bearing area.
Replace stub shaft bearing with kit part number 26099860.
Also, a special tool is required to complete the repair. You must use Essential Tool J-45798 to avoid damage to the bearing seal. The repair procedures are available in SI (Service Information) to install the new bearing


Clunking Noise Under Hood and Can Be Felt In the steering wheel (Lubricate Intermediate Steering Shaft Assembly) #00-02-35-003B - (01/24/2003)
Clunking Noise Under Hood and can be felt in the Steering wheel (Lubricate Intermediate Steering Shaft Assembly)
2002-2003 Cadillac Escalade, Escalade EXT

1999-2003 Chevrolet Silverado

2000-2003 Chevrolet Suburban, Tahoe

2002-2003 Chevrolet Avalanche

1999-2003 GMC Sierra

2000-2003 GMC Yukon, Yukon XL

2003 HUMMER H2

With Recirculating Ball-Type Steering

This bulletin is being revised to add model years and models and Correction information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 00-02-35-003A (Section 02 -- Steering).

Condition
Some customers may comment on a clunk type noise coming from under the hood that also can be felt in the steering wheel. These conditions may be more noticeable when turning at low speeds on rough road surfaces.

Correction

Important
DO NOT REPLACE THE FOLLOWING INTERMEDIATE STEERING SHAFT P/Ns

26085548
26049343
26083324
26088325
15772436
26078079

Remove the intermediate shaft from the vehicle and lubricate the intermediate shaft with a Steering Column Intermediate Shaft Lubrication Kit, P/N 26098419. Follow the service procedure below.

Set the front wheels in the straight-ahead position.
Set the steering wheel in the LOCK position.



From inside the vehicle, remove the upper bolt from the upper intermediate steering shaft (1) to the steering column connection.



From under the hood, remove the lower bolt that connects the upper intermediate shaft to the steering gear coupling shaft.
Remove the upper intermediate steering shaft assembly.
From inside the vehicle, slide the shaft down and off the steering column shaft.
From under the hood, slide the shaft towards the dash in order to disengage the shaft from the steering gear coupling shaft.
From inside the vehicle, slide the upper intermediate shaft through the dash boot seal and remove the shaft from the vehicle.




Remove the spacer clip from the end of the intermediate shaft with a pair of needle nose pliers.
Fully extend the shaft by pulling the two shafts apart.



Apply the syringe of grease supplied in the Steering Column Intermediate Shaft Lubrication Kit, P/N 26098419, into the open end of the shaft. Direct the syringe tip as deep as possible into the shaft and dispense the full content of the syringe.



Insert the plug supplied in the Steering Column Intermediate Shaft Lubrication Kit into the open end of the shaft and finger tighten the wing nut.



Place the plugged end of the shaft on a hard surface and apply pressure to collapse the shaft and dissipate the grease through the shaft.
Remove the plug from the shaft and fully extend the shaft.



Inspect the shaft for a minimum of 13 mm (1/2 in) of grease on the shaft splines.
Repeat steps 10-12 if less than 13 mm (1/2 in) of grease is on shaft splines.
Clean the excess grease off of the shaft splines and around the shaft opening.



Carefully spread apart the spacer clip with a pair of pliers.



Reinstall the spacer clip into the open end of the shaft.



Align the spacer clip with the stakes in the shaft.
Reinstall the upper intermediate steering shaft through the dash boot seal and slide the lower end into the steering gear coupling shaft.
Raise the upper end of the intermediate steering shaft and install into the steering column shaft.
Install the upper bolt and nut. Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 47 N·m(35 lb ft).

Install the lower bolt and nut. Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 50 N·m(37 lb ft).

Parts Information
Part Number
Description
Qty

26098419
Lubrication Kit, Steering Column Intermediate Shaft
1
It's not only the older models l have a 2006 Chev 2500hd and the same thing in the steering, mostly when l turn to the left you can feel and hear the clunk

I just bought a 2001 Suburban that was doing this and after reading a couple of these threads I decided to try a short cut. I took out the lower bolt (under the hood), retracted the ISS toward the firewall and sprayed some WD-40 up into the shaft splines using the little red extension tube. I cycled the shaft five or six times by hand and then re-assembled. That was two weeks ago and my noise is gone with no return. I figure a can of WD-40 is about three bucks so I can buy about 30 cans for the price of one steering shaft. May not work for everyone, but it' s the best 2 minutes I ever put into a car.

hello

i have question to those who replaced the shaft themselves.
ok, i have attempted this job once last year, relying on haynes manual. their directions turned out to be bogus. they said "losen 2 bolts, one at the gear box, one at the intermediate shaft, and slide shaft off" which is impossible to do, as shaft is backed by another shaft that comes out of firewall.

anyways, i have 2000 silverado. i read the post and it appears that shaft to be replaced is not the lower intemediate shaft, but the upper intermediate shaft. one that goes into firewall.
my assumption is, as i am dead fed up with that clunk, and it gets only worse (77K miles), that i have to remove a plastic panel that covers steering column; find upper intermediate to steering shaft nut or bolt; remove it; remove nut that connects upper intermediate shaft to lower intermediate shaft; slide shaft off steering column shaft and slide it off the lower shaft, pulling it out through the firewall, into the passenger compartment.
if this is correct, i have question: well, i have just picked under the hood, and there is no way the shafts will slide up or down for more than 1/8 of an inch. upper shaft is backed against the lower shaft, and lower shaft is backed against the steering gear box. there're no gaps for any "slide".

so, if you have done this before, please, let me know what am i missing? is the shafts assembly sliding UP into the dashboard on steering column splines so that it can come off the gear box and then be removed off steering shaft??

i have 3 days off coming, so it'd have been nice to have advice on this. also, making sure - it's the upper shaft that needs to be replaced, not the bottom one? as i tried to fix this last year and dealership told me that they are selling LOWER shafts mostly.

hello

i have question to those who replaced the shaft themselves.
ok, i have attempted this job once last year, relying on haynes manual. their directions turned out to be bogus. they said "losen 2 bolts, one at the gear box, one at the intermediate shaft, and slide shaft off" which is impossible to do, as shaft is backed by another shaft that comes out of firewall.

anyways, i have 2000 silverado. i read the post and it appears that shaft to be replaced is not the lower intemediate shaft, but the upper intermediate shaft. one that goes into firewall.
my assumption is, as i am dead fed up with that clunk, and it gets only worse (77K miles), that i have to remove a plastic panel that covers steering column; find upper intermediate to steering shaft nut or bolt; remove it; remove nut that connects upper intermediate shaft to lower intermediate shaft; slide shaft off steering column shaft and slide it off the lower shaft, pulling it out through the firewall, into the passenger compartment.
if this is correct, i have question: well, i have just picked under the hood, and there is no way the shafts will slide up or down for more than 1/8 of an inch. upper shaft is backed against the lower shaft, and lower shaft is backed against the steering gear box. there're no gaps for any "slide".

so, if you have done this before, please, let me know what am i missing? is the shafts assembly sliding UP into the dashboard on steering column splines so that it can come off the gear box and then be removed off steering shaft??

i have 3 days off coming, so it'd have been nice to have advice on this. also, making sure - it's the upper shaft that needs to be replaced, not the bottom one? as i tried to fix this last year and dealership told me that they are selling LOWER shafts mostly.

I replaced this shaft almost a year ago, and the fix is still working. There are only two bolts to remove - the lower one is under the hood about half way down the steering shaft assembly. The upper one is on the other side of the firewall under the dash. Both bolts are easy to see. You'll need to remove the throttle pedal (two bolts - easy) to get at the upper one. This intermediate shaft does compress enough to remove it - yours must be stuck (dried grease?). You'll need to bang on the intermediate shaft maybe? It WILL move and compress after you undo the lower bolt!. From a post I made last year: "I had this same problem on my '03 Silverado. Removing and replacing the shaft is very easy - if you don't mind laying on your back under the dash to get at the bolt on one end and bending over the fender to get at the bolt on the other end. The book says you need to remove the throttle pedal first (which I did - two nuts and it pulls out). The whole thing is really pretty easy. Just be sure to lock the steering wheel so you don't get things mis-aligned. "Stroking" the old one had no effect. Adding grease worked for a week or two. The new shaft has worked great for several months - I've almost forgotten about the whole thing! I purchased the new shaft in April."

I replaced this shaft almost a year ago, and the fix is still working. There are only two bolts to remove - the lower one is under the hood about half way down the steering shaft assembly. The upper one is on the other side of the firewall under the dash. Both bolts are easy to see. You'll need to remove the throttle pedal (two bolts - easy) to get at the upper one. This intermediate shaft does compress enough to remove it - yours must be stuck (dried grease?). "

as a matter of fact, i saw your post. appreciate response, thank you.
just to set my ducks in a row:
1. remove plastic panel to access steering shaft
2. possibly, remove 2 bolts holding gas pedal in place. i've seen a post stating that that was not necessary
3. remove in dash intermediate shaft to steering shaft pinch bolt
4. remove, under the hood, upper intermediate shaft to lower intermediate shaft bolt (mine has 2 shafts, one coming out of firewall and one attached to steering gear; that one looks like it has 2 "harmonicas" on either end, probably designed to collapse during head on collision; solid metal); they are connected together and there's a bolt securing connection, about midway from firewall to steering gear.
5. from under the dashboard, press intermediate shaft down on steering shaft, to slide it off it; i am assuming that there's some sort of compressing structure in it that permits so, as it will not slide down the lower intermediate shaft, it's 100%, i know from my 1st attempt. i never tried to remove the upper sshaft, as, like i said, dealer sold me lower one as "the most popular one". i have no idea if the upper one is stuck, never had my hands on it.
6. slide intermediate shaft off the lower intermediate shaft and remove it into the cabin.

did i get it right? will be fun to do, considering that i'm 6'5''. 'ts ok, that clunk became a solid "pebble in the shoe".

as a matter of fact, i saw your post. appreciate response, thank you.
just to set my ducks in a row:
1. remove plastic panel to access steering shaft
2. possibly, remove 2 bolts holding gas pedal in place. i've seen a post stating that that was not necessary
3. remove in dash intermediate shaft to steering shaft pinch bolt
4. remove, under the hood, upper intermediate shaft to lower intermediate shaft bolt (mine has 2 shafts, one coming out of firewall and one attached to steering gear; that one looks like it has 2 "harmonicas" on either end, probably designed to collapse during head on collision; solid metal); they are connected together and there's a bolt securing connection, about midway from firewall to steering gear.
5. from under the dashboard, press intermediate shaft down on steering shaft, to slide it off it; i am assuming that there's some sort of compressing structure in it that permits so, as it will not slide down the lower intermediate shaft, it's 100%, i know from my 1st attempt. i never tried to remove the upper sshaft, as, like i said, dealer sold me lower one as "the most popular one". i have no idea if the upper one is stuck, never had my hands on it.
6. slide intermediate shaft off the lower intermediate shaft and remove it into the cabin.

did i get it right? will be fun to do, considering that i'm 6'5''. 'ts ok, that clunk became a solid "pebble in the shoe".

1) - I don't remember having to remove any plastic panels (I assume you mean inside the cab) - I could see the upper bolt without removing anything. I just looked - underneath the dash at the firewall, you'll see a small u-joint and then the bolt you need to undo.
2) - 2 bolts for the gas pedal - you might get away without doing this, but it was so easy, I did it anyway.
3) - yep - that's the bolt just inside the upper intermediate shaft u-joint
4) - yep - the bolt you want under the hood is just above the upper bellow shaped part of the lower shaft.
5) - I found it easier to unbolt the lower bolt, push upwards on the intermediate shaft 'til it clears, and then unbolt the upper bolt inside the cab. I'd be pretty sure it's the upper (intermediate) shaft that you want to replace - it's the one that's causing all the "clunking" problems. This shaft has a sliding splined shaft inside a cylinder that moves in and out. This is how your steering wheel can remain in place while the front suspension goes over bumps. It moves enough to clear so it can be removed. If yours is too stiff to move, it's probably why you're getting the clunking. You may need to force it.
6) - I pulled mine out through the firewall from under the hood - I think it's easier.
My truck is an '03 4x4 1500 - yours could be different...
Good luck! Art

1) - I don't remember having to remove any plastic panels (I assume you mean inside the cab) - I could see the upper bolt without removing anything. I just looked - underneath the dash at the firewall, you'll see a small u-joint and then the bolt you need to undo.
2) - 2 bolts for the gas pedal - you might get away without doing this, but it was so easy, I did it anyway.
3) - yep - that's the bolt just inside the upper intermediate shaft u-joint
4) - yep - the bolt you want under the hood is just above the upper bellow shaped part of the lower shaft.
5) - I found it easier to unbolt the lower bolt, push upwards on the intermediate shaft 'til it clears, and then unbolt the upper bolt inside the cab. I'd be pretty sure it's the upper (intermediate) shaft that you want to replace - it's the one that's causing all the "clunking" problems. This shaft has a sliding splined shaft inside a cylinder that moves in and out. This is how your steering wheel can remain in place while the front suspension goes over bumps. It moves enough to clear so it can be removed. If yours is too stiff to move, it's probably why you're getting the clunking. You may need to force it.
6) - I pulled mine out through the firewall from under the hood - I think it's easier.
My truck is an '03 4x4 1500 - yours could be different...
Good luck! Art

thank you Art. how can i return the favor?

you see, that's what the forums are for. that's the spirit of camradery.
i don't think we have any difference in design, as there are plenty of complaints for the same clunk on 2006 and 2007 models. obviously, GM does nto give rats ass about this.
well, let them start staring at toyota's tailgate lights next year in the race, maybe then they'll start thinking less about corporate profit and CEOs bonuses and more about designing better vehicles.
this problem is just a tip of the iceberg i have to fix on this "60 years in development american revolution".

anyways, thanks again, friend. i ow u one.

ok, i just found that if you have below 70K miles on your truck, 1999 through present, chevy will replace it for you. the intermediate shaft, not truck. :rofl: depending on mileage, they "participate" in sharing cost of parts and labor. :2cents: :2cents:
too bad for me, as i'm over 70K, but might help other soles with the same clunk.

well, that was the easiest $120 i ever saved to myself.
took around 10 minutes for a rookie job
stealership quated $220
part was $101 after tax

piece has 2 bolts that hold it in place, and 2 couplings. one is like a finger, goes into steering column, right under the dashbord. did not have to remove any pedals, access was nice and easy even for my 6'5 frame. 15mm socket.
2nd bolt secures this shaft to lower intermediate steering shaft inside engine bay.
it was easier to pull shaft into passenger compartment, cardane joint won't let it go out into engine bay through bellow anyway.
i have not noticed any difference between the two parts. none. hopefully i got "improved" version.
so far, clunk is gone.
will get my hands on steering componentry tomorrow. i have now to take care of very scary sidewise shake that happens time to time. nice to have longer weekend.
i am still wondering how flimsy that piece is for such a large vehicle.

Dealer just replaced mine for the second time, first time they greased it then later replaced it under warranty, but now my 03 has 40k on it and they did it at no charge.

Dealer just replaced the THIRD one in my 06 2500HD. They must be a dime a dozen.

FYI... Borgenson makes an excellent quality replacement shaft for this application if you want to use a better one. I bought one and am going to install it.
Go to their web site (www.borgenson.com (http://www.borgenson.com)) and look it up. Thanks...

I replaced this over the weekend on my 05 Duramax. P/N 19153614, $99.36 with Tax. Dealer said he charges $90 for the job.

I was expecting it to be a little easier based on most comments on here, but with the Duramax it is a little tougher to get to the lower bolt. In addition I had a hard time getting the new shaft into the lower shaft. Had to tap the top end from inside the cab with a hammer to get it in all the way so the bolt holes line up.

Less the time it took me to look for the nut for the lower bolt that I dropped, which disappeard somewhere under the truck, overall time was probably about 45 minutes.

So glad I finally got to this. It had been annoying me for about 8 months.

This is a very helpful thread.

FYI... Borgenson makes an excellent quality replacement shaft for this application if you want to use a better one. I bought one and am going to install it.
Go to their web site (www.borgenson.com (http://www.borgenson.com)) and look it up. Thanks...

i tried borgensson(link posted) just out of curiosity, and all it is is bunch of re-routes to other sites that sell ISS-s.

i fooled with removed shaft for a while, just trying to figure out how it can possibly clunk. as it's plastic (!!) splines on metal. so, wiggling it sidewise produced no cluncking at all. the only time it'd clunck was when the shaft would completely fold/shorten. then metal hits on metal with loud clunck.
so i developed a feeling that when the front end saggs enough, ISS shortens to the point that metal approximates metal. slam on the brakes or hit a pothole - bang!

What recall is out for this now? I have a '04 K2500HD, and they replaced the shaft under waranty when the truck was about a year and a half old. They lubed it about a year and a half later. This time they wanted me to pay. I got them to give me service for a year in exchange. Now it is doing it again.
I have 64,000 miles, and I want to know if there is a recall now. Someone said that they will fix it under 60k, but seeing that it has been done twice before, I think that they should. I could do it too, but since it is their poor design, they ought to do it.
I am glad that I have found this forum. Now I know how widespread this problem is.