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Intermediate Shaft Steering Clunk


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ukrkoz
08-14-2008, 10:36 PM
What recall is out for this now? I have a '04 K2500HD, and they replaced the shaft under waranty when the truck was about a year and a half old. They lubed it about a year and a half later. This time they wanted me to pay. I got them to give me service for a year in exchange. Now it is doing it again.
I have 64,000 miles, and I want to know if there is a recall now. Someone said that they will fix it under 60k, but seeing that it has been done twice before, I think that they should. I could do it too, but since it is their poor design, they ought to do it.
I am glad that I have found this forum. Now I know how widespread this problem is.

THEY ought to do many things, beginning with making better cars in general.

anyways, i don't really blame THEM, as there's the whole entire culture in the country of folks that are dead chevy/ford patriots no matter how shitty product they get. so the companies fell into fallacy of believing that no matter what they do and how little they care about their customers, "american revolution" will prevail.

as of recall, there is none. there's a participation in repairs. which, pretty much, means that if your truck is below 70K miles, chevy will throw in some cash to compensate for the cost of repairs. i had it calc-d and it is much cheaper to buy aftermarket ISS and replace DIY than to go for their participation. it's :lol2: :lol2: :lol2: :lol2: , as dealership wants some $200 for the part only, and it's like $76 off the internet. in addition, i had to listen to a long spiel from chevy guy about quality of their parts as comparing to the aftermarket ones. to which i, after patiently listening to his bull, politely replied - OEM part, 60K miles, broke; aftermarket part, 3 times cheaper - works fine. he got offended.:loser:

yakk
08-19-2008, 11:22 AM
FYI... Borgenson makes an excellent quality replacement shaft for this application if you want to use a better one. I bought one and am going to install it.
Go to their web site (www.borgenson.com (http://www.borgenson.com)) and look it up. Thanks...

I hate to tell you this, but I installed a Borgenson, and a year and a half later it started making the same noises.

ColoradoSilverado
08-22-2008, 06:09 PM
Has anyone tried the $72 Intermediate steering shaft from NAPA ?

Bert

Engineer Spike
08-29-2008, 02:21 PM
Well I fixed it myself! It only took about 30 minutes. I took the two halves apart and put spray lithium grease in there. Now it is like new. I may try to coat the male section with a teflon or rubber coating next time.
I agree that we all settle for Detroit's crap. There is something weak about all 3 brands, GM, Ford, and Chrysler. It is just a matter of time before the Japs get into the medium duty truck lines. If they had a product comparable to the K2500, or F250 (which I had before my chevy), I would have purchased it.

ukrkoz
08-29-2008, 03:15 PM
Well I fixed it myself! It only took about 30 minutes. I took the two halves apart and put spray lithium grease in there. Now it is like new. I may try to coat the male section with a teflon or rubber coating next time.
I agree that we all settle for Detroit's crap. There is something weak about all 3 brands, GM, Ford, and Chrysler. It is just a matter of time before the Japs get into the medium duty truck lines. If they had a product comparable to the K2500, or F250 (which I had before my chevy), I would have purchased it.

unfortunately, all you did was, again, to follow GM's suite. "exercising" the shaft with their magic lube is step #1 GM does at dealerships to "fix" the problem. same goes for binding driveshaft yoke. then customers come back as the clunck comes back, and they replace those parts.
so, you are destined to do that job twice. i like my friend's son approach. he just opened a repair shop and i know him ever since he was 10. i gave him timing belt job on my son's eclipse, as it's total pain in ass to do. his approach is simple: if you get "in there" - replace everything possible, so you don't have to do over as something else breaks. so he replaced belt, pump, and pullies plus main seal. now we are good for the next 60K miles.
like they say - you can pay me now, or you can pay me later.:2cents: :2cents: :2cents:

SuperBK
09-02-2008, 08:37 AM
A dealer just told me that its "around $250" to get the intermediate shaft replaced. He said Chevy would only do it for free under warranty, either the 3 year / 36k mile or an extended warranty.
Who can I contact about it farther up the food chain?
Brian

ukrkoz
09-02-2008, 10:25 AM
A dealer just told me that its "around $250" to get the intermediate shaft replaced. He said Chevy would only do it for free under warranty, either the 3 year / 36k mile or an extended warranty.
Who can I contact about it farther up the food chain?
Brian

1. tell your dealer to really look it up and find about GM participation program; write letter to chevy complaints center and when you talk to dealer, come with that letter in hand and tell the guy that you either have it resolved, or you send it in mail as you leave. ask for senior manager name.
2. brian, that part is some $80. they quoted you part and labor. it is 10 min DIY job. just do it, i'll guide you through.

buttloadsoclass
09-02-2008, 01:42 PM
You can purchase the steering lock pin from the following site...

https://gmspecialservicetools.spx.com/HomePage.aspx


Search for 42640 under part name. $9.11 with shipping.

ukrkoz
09-02-2008, 02:14 PM
not quite a silverado shaft, but looks very similar if you want to mess with repair:
http://www.colinkraft.com/shaft.php

or you can do this:
INTERMEDIATE STEERING SHAFT is connected to the Lower Steering Shaft through a spline. The "CLUNK" is a loose spline rattling. A quick fix is a new Intermediate Shaft but most likely (in time) the clunk will return. At that point I recommend that you purchase a kit for about $15.00 to relube the spline. The most important part of the kit is a special plug! Included also in the kit is a syringe of lubricant. My advise is to replace the grease in the syringe with a good quality wheel bearing grease. This will make the "relubing" last years longer. Instructions in the kit are quite easy to follow. (which sounds exactly like the items in link above)

waitingforcolumbus
09-04-2008, 12:12 PM
There are two shafts. The original was junk and they used grease to "fix" it. My post a year ago suggested using the new design shaft.
Good luck.
===
Part ID: 19153614 SPECIAL PRICING!

Manufacturer
General Motors

Description
New design intermediate steering shaft 1999-2007 Full Size Truck. This will eleminate the clunk noise in your steering wheel. This is a permanent fix with a teflon bushing inside that does not require any more grease.

Old Part Number(s)
N/A List Price: $89.15
Savings: $34.65
Our Price: $54.50
Core Charge: $0.00
Your Cost: $54.50
Quantity:
https://www.partszoneonline.com/search.php

XAutoXer
10-06-2008, 09:58 PM
1. tell your dealer to really look it up and find about GM participation program; write letter to chevy complaints center and when you talk to dealer, come with that letter in hand and tell the guy that you either have it resolved, or you send it in mail as you leave. ask for senior manager name.
2. brian, that part is some $80. they quoted you part and labor. it is 10 min DIY job. just do it, i'll guide you through.

Hey ukrkoz:
I sure would like it if you could guide me through the replacement of this shaft. I have read about doing this and having to do that, even tying off your steering wheel etc. You make it sound like a snap. If you could lay it out for me in somewhat laymens terms, that would be great.
Thanks
Kyle

waitingforcolumbus
10-08-2008, 07:09 AM
Kyle, take a look at this link and see if it helps. I've never done this job so I can't verify if it's correct.
http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=73044
<http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=73044>;

ukrkoz
10-09-2008, 10:59 PM
Hey ukrkoz:
I sure would like it if you could guide me through the replacement of this shaft. I have read about doing this and having to do that, even tying off your steering wheel etc. You make it sound like a snap. If you could lay it out for me in somewhat laymens terms, that would be great.
Thanks
Kyle

Kyle, it is very easy. get on your back underneath the steering wheel and look up. you'll see pinch bolt where it connects ISS to the steering wheel shaft. remove it.
go under the hood, remove upper pich bolt on the steering shaft. i say upper, as ISS connects to another shaft that connects to steering geer. so, that bolt is on the top of that other shaft.
now, slide shaft off the shaft that is connected to the steering geer and slide it off the steering wheel shaft.
i pulled mine in through the rubber boot in the firewall. some folks pull it out into the engine bay.
installation is reverse to removal. buy yourself ISS from NAPA, it does look much more substantial. mine was replaced around march with OEM look alike, and clunck already starts coming back. it's pos design.

04 GMC 2500HD
10-12-2008, 06:31 PM
I replaced mine back in July. I got mine from the dealer ( P# 19153614 ). Cost me $ 78.76. It was easy to change. I think the hardest part was getting a wrench up there inside the cab. I'd use a ratchet wrench under the dash. This site turned me onto the problem and told me how to fix it. Thanks guys

Rich

Gbuzz71
10-28-2008, 12:58 PM
I replaced mine back in July. I got mine from the dealer ( P# 19153614 ). Cost me $ 78.76. It was easy to change. I think the hardest part was getting a wrench up there inside the cab. I'd use a ratchet wrench under the dash. This site turned me onto the problem and told me how to fix it. Thanks guys

Rich

I just got done putting in an ISS from Borgenson. I had some trouble pulling the old one out from the cab. I had to remove some duct work to wiggle it out of there. I'm no mechanic by any means put the job was fairly simple. And no more knocking....for now.

2003 Silverado Z71 LT

XAutoXer
10-28-2008, 02:46 PM
I just got done putting in an ISS from Borgenson. I had some trouble pulling the old one out from the cab. I had to remove some duct work to wiggle it out of there. I'm no mechanic by any means put the job was fairly simple. And no more knocking....for now.

2003 Silverado Z71 LT

Hope it lasts a long time for you. I visited the dealer today. Talk to a service rep. Told be that any of the greese kit jobs have lasted from about 1 to 2 years depending on driving habits. I am hoping to remove mine tomorrow and install a greese zerk. Wish me luck gang. Dam I hope this fixes it.

waitingforcolumbus
10-29-2008, 11:49 AM
Gbuzz71, Did you notice if your Borgenson ISS had a Teflon bushing inside?

XAutoXer
10-29-2008, 06:44 PM
Hope it lasts a long time for you. I visited the dealer today. Talk to a service rep. Told be that any of the greese kit jobs have lasted from about 1 to 2 years depending on driving habits. I am hoping to remove mine tomorrow and install a greese zerk. Wish me luck gang. Dam I hope this fixes it.

Ok gang you ready:

Here is my story.

It is called the Clunk that was no more...

Well it started at about 9:00 this morning. I tied off my steering wheel and removed the ISS. Was not as bed as I thought it would be. Removed the two bolts, Slid the ISS out of the lower shaft first and then wiggled it into the cab. Like I said not so bad. Then I looked at
it for a while, had a smoke and coffee. There was not much play in it as I expected. A bit of whitish grease kinda like a blob in the opening. Oh and you know what else that surprised me was there was no bent piece of metal that most said would have to be removed with needle nose pliers. You know what I am taking about. Anyways it wasn't there. So I cleaned up the shaft inside and out. I then welded a piece of metal just inside the open end. I welded it completely around just inside the edge. Then I inserted a zerk fitting 3/4" above the lower bolt hole. My theory is that once I reconnect everything and I pump grease into the now closed shaft, that there is only one way for it to come out. right up through the splies. So I put it back together, no wait a sec I drilled the zerk hole first then slid the unit back into through the firewall. Connected the lower connection first, hand tight, then the upper. Tighten them both up, good and tight. Turn the wheel slightly after removing the steering wheel strap.
This was to have the hole for the zerk facing up. Installed the zerk. Then pumped er up good. Not to much, not to little but just enough. Gut feeling sorry I know it's kind of vague. So guess what. That's right. I don't go clunk clunk clunk down the street anymore. I am so freaking happy. Every oil change I am going to give it a squirt of grease through the zerk. And I will be set.

Stopped in the local GM Dealership afterwards. The service reps and the mechanic that usually fixes them all wanted to see what I had done. And were all impressed.
I got to tell you guy's, and maybe some of you are gal's Thank you so much for helping me fix this problem. Without this board I could never have done it.

Sorry no pictures I wanted to take some. My new Canon camera is in the shop. But that is another story.

I will post a update in a month or so, or if it god forbid comes back.

Gbuzz71
10-29-2008, 11:48 PM
Gbuzz71, Did you notice if your Borgenson ISS had a Teflon bushing inside?
No I didn't notice it. I just put it in, but it did say that it had the the teflon bushing on the part description.

truck owner
03-20-2009, 06:22 PM
Glad I found this forum. In February 09 I purchased an 03 silverado regulary cab v-8 w/ auto from and estate. It has 17,500 miles and paid $7,500.00. Shortly after the purchase I began hearing the clunking noise when steering left. I read all the forums about the steering shaft. I then called the local dealer and they said it would cost around $200.00 to fix and when asked if GM would take care of it, they responded with a "No, not likely"
I then called the customer service number in the owners manual. Yes I spoke with a female foreigner who was hard to understand. After getting my information:name, VIN number etc. She said I needed a "proper diagnosis". She then called the local dealer ship on a 3 way call. Guess who I talked to:... yep same guy. I made an appointment for the next week. Dropped it off the night before. The day of the "proper diagnosis" I received a call from the same gal from GM wanting to know if I had been contacted by the dealer. I hadn't so she said she would call and call me back, which she did in 5 minutes saying she had good news. The ISS had been replaced for free. I thanked her graciously and later picked up the truck and thanked them also.
I later spoke with a coworker whose GMC also had the "clunk" and the dealer had fixed his with 160,000 miles on it.
Am I satisfied? Sure am it drives like the new truck it is, now.

jodirt26
03-25-2009, 03:00 PM
truck owner:

Your situation is very similar to mine. I bought an 03 Silverado in 04 with 19k miles. They packed it with grease before I took it home. It was fine until about 50k miles which was about 2 years ago. I read some stuff online about packing it with grease was the only fix. Now I hear there is a re-engineered part out there. My truck currently has about 93k miles on it. In your post you say that your friend had 160k miles and they replaced the part with the new one. Did they replace his for free? Also, did he have to call the customer service number as you did, or did they just replace it. I am just figuring out what to do. I got 1 quote from a local dealership saying it would be $150 installed. I see that I can buy the new part for $55 on gmpartszoneonline.com and the instalation sounds pretty easy. But if I can get the dealership to do it for free since it really is their problem, I obviously want to do that.
Let me know.

thanks

Joe

ukrkoz
03-25-2009, 04:12 PM
truck owner:

Your situation is very similar to mine. I bought an 03 Silverado in 04 with 19k miles. They packed it with grease before I took it home. It was fine until about 50k miles which was about 2 years ago. I read some stuff online about packing it with grease was the only fix. Now I hear there is a re-engineered part out there. My truck currently has about 93k miles on it. In your post you say that your friend had 160k miles and they replaced the part with the new one. Did they replace his for free? Also, did he have to call the customer service number as you did, or did they just replace it. I am just figuring out what to do. I got 1 quote from a local dealership saying it would be $150 installed. I see that I can buy the new part for $55 on gmpartszoneonline.com and the instalation sounds pretty easy. But if I can get the dealership to do it for free since it really is their problem, I obviously want to do that.
Let me know.

thanks

Joe

no, you will not get a freebie. GM has it covered under warranty up to whatever it was for your truck. Also, they have an un=advertised "participation program" - for up to 70K miles, they will pro-rate replacement and deduct some of your costs for it.
DO NOT buy OEM design ISS. get a NAPA design, it is said to last much longer than OEM one. "Excersizing ISS", using GM terminology, only prolongs the agony and delays replcement, that's it.

ColoradoSilverado
03-26-2009, 07:50 AM
Am I the only one that used the NAPA ISS ? This has an Teflon bushing inside and so far so good.

Bert

http://tinypic.com/ei2g51

jodirt26
03-26-2009, 11:09 AM
ukrkoz-

Thanks for all of this great information. This site has been the most helpful. I will definitely come back if I run into any more problems.

You said:
get a NAPA design, it is said to last much longer than OEM one.Can you possibly give me the part number you used. I searched the part on NAPA's website and it comes up with 3 different ones ranging in price from $74 - $184. All 3 have the same description.

I could call. Generally speaking all the people working at NAPA are pretty knowledgeable compared to other stores, but I just want to make sure I get the correct part.

If you have no idea, no big deal. I will figure it out.


ColoradoSilverado/Bert-

How long have you gone with the NAPA part installed?

ColoradoSilverado
03-26-2009, 05:51 PM
ukrkoz-

Thanks for all of this great information. This site has been the most helpful. I will definitely come back if I run into any more problems.

You said:
Can you possibly give me the part number you used. I searched the part on NAPA's website and it comes up with 3 different ones ranging in price from $74 - $184. All 3 have the same description.

I could call. Generally speaking all the people working at NAPA are pretty knowledgeable compared to other stores, but I just want to make sure I get the correct part.

If you have no idea, no big deal. I will figure it out.


ColoradoSilverado/Bert-

How long have you gone with the NAPA part installed?

I installed mine on September 8th last year.

Bert

glenn77
07-29-2009, 01:13 PM
My truck is a 2005 chev silverado which has a similiar problem. Does anyone know if this was a concern for the 2005 years as well??

ukrkoz
07-29-2009, 07:58 PM
My truck is a 2005 chev silverado which has a similiar problem. Does anyone know if this was a concern for the 2005 years as well??

dude, they have never fixed it. i had it tracked as recent as 2009 models. probably will be followed by a brown nosed post from some chevy fan, saying that they have changed to improved design, it's bull, they never did.

kbaird83
07-29-2009, 09:09 PM
ok here's my question. i have a 02 silverado that clunks at slow speeds not only when turning left but right aswell. also can feel the jump in the wheel while going down the road and hitting bumps. gets up my nerve when going down the highway doing 70-75, hit a bump, and the truck wants to jump around a little. does this sound like the problem being discussed?

ukrkoz
07-29-2009, 09:29 PM
ok here's my question. i have a 02 silverado that clunks at slow speeds not only when turning left but right aswell. also can feel the jump in the wheel while going down the road and hitting bumps. gets up my nerve when going down the highway doing 70-75, hit a bump, and the truck wants to jump around a little. does this sound like the problem being discussed?

nope, wrong symptoms. ISS is felt only at take off and rapid braking, when front lifts or dives.
you have:
1. bad idler, if so equipped
2. bad pitman, if so equipped
3. one or both bad hub bearings.
you let it go - you'll get "death wobble", and that will scare the shit out of you when you experience it.

kbaird83
07-29-2009, 11:22 PM
nope, wrong symptoms. ISS is felt only at take off and rapid braking, when front lifts or dives.
you have:
1. bad idler, if so equipped
2. bad pitman, if so equipped
3. one or both bad hub bearings.
you let it go - you'll get "death wobble", and that will scare the shit out of you when you experience it.

I know the suspensions getting a bit beat down. this could cause these same symptoms couldnt they? get the bounce hop and sway at high speeds. also how do you check if bearings are going bad? everything feels tight and doesnt have any play.

ukrkoz
07-30-2009, 12:28 PM
I know the suspensions getting a bit beat down. this could cause these same symptoms couldnt they? get the bounce hop and sway at high speeds. also how do you check if bearings are going bad? everything feels tight and doesnt have any play.

reason i know the symptoms is because i have been down that route between 60 and 70K miles. and in my case, it was terribly scary. if you are familiar with what "flutter" in aviation feels like, that was best description.

1. to check on bearing, raise the front, jack securily, grab the wheel at 6 and 12, and tug it vigorously back and for. there should be NO play at all. none. it's a large tire on a large rim, so centrifuginal forces at high speeds create huge torque moments at slightest play in the hub, esp after bounce.
2. same done with hands on 3 and 9= tierods are bad. you need to find out if you have g'ol paralellogram steering, or rack n pinion. as with the last one, you do not have idler arm.
3. you need 2 people to check on idler. have helper in the cabin, raise front securily, both wheels up in the air, get under and locate idler. ask helper to sharply turn steering wheel left-right, maybe 15 degrees each way(unlock steering wheel, btw). if you see ANY play between idler stud and connecting rod, idler must be replaced. sometimes you can hear clunck in it. same goes for pitman. it's quite noticeable, actually.
basically, it's either no play, or repalce.

OKCSuburban
08-02-2009, 01:30 AM
subscribed....I might need to check into this.

MustangX2
08-05-2009, 11:49 AM
Purchased 05 Tahoe Z71 new. Now out of warranty. 49.500 miles. Contacted the BBB when Chevy service wouldn't fix the intermediate shaft problem. Chevy wanted $296 to fix it. BBB arbitrated with Chevy Customer Service who is going to pay 1/2 of the fix price. My feeling is they should have paid for all of it, but I didn't push it as I noticed the problem BEFORE the warranty expired and I didn't take it into the shop as I should have. Hope I don't get the shaft on the new shaft:)

smallxfires
10-20-2009, 03:52 PM
so i am about to do this project... i will take pictures and post on a website as a step by step for everyone... what is the final consensus of the right part to buy, and where to buy it?

napa? partsexpress 19153614? stealership?

thanks guys

ukrkoz
10-20-2009, 07:48 PM
said it many times and will say again: NAPA HAS THEIR OWN DESIGN, DIFFERENT FROM OEM ONE. OEM DESIGN STARTS CLUNKING IN SHORT PERIOD OF TIME. napa's one is not prone to same problem.

smallxfires
10-20-2009, 09:48 PM
part number, mr napa?

ukrkoz
10-20-2009, 10:56 PM
part number, mr napa?

yellow pages and a phone call to local napa store. oem ISS is round, with plastic bushing and splines that go into it. napa's ISS is flat. do NOT buy the round one.

ukrkoz
10-20-2009, 11:03 PM
of course, edit feature does not work, so:
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=265506&page=1
that's about all the knowledge on those shafts and rebuilt kits and "how to"s. including my 2 pennies.

ukrkoz
10-20-2009, 11:09 PM
that's your puppy:
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1059054

napa resells it

http://i36.tinypic.com/2ngt0go.jpg

NORTHEAST PATTERN
11-19-2009, 02:10 PM
I have a 2004 Tahoe and 2005 Suburban, both 4wd that had this problem of a clunking sound in the steering . Replaced with a NAPA part 7-3061 steering shaft and it took care of the problem. It was easier to take off the boot in the firewall and pull the shaft through into the engine compartment than full with the accelarator bracket.Took less than one hour to do and the part was less than $60.00.

smallxfires
11-21-2009, 10:52 PM
so i put the napa part in, and no more clunk. but i am getting a "squeeky'' noise when i steer, is this related?

NORTHEAST PATTERN
11-23-2009, 05:50 AM
My quess is that you need to put some lube around the shaft where it goes through the rubber boot. White lithium should do the trick

smallxfires
11-24-2009, 11:40 PM
My quess is that you need to put some lube around the shaft where it goes through the rubber boot. White lithium should do the trick

i went to town with some today with no prevail!

Silverado05
02-06-2010, 05:51 PM
Had the "clunk" in my 2005 Z71, 4x4, crew cab and took it to the dealer at about 20K. They said they replaced the shaft, but only greased it. :nono: The clunk returned about a year later with 40K. Brought it back, once again they said they replaced it, but it returned again a year later. Wanted to jerk the wheel into oncoming traffic...:banghead: Never beat on this truck off road or anything, it just started clunking again. I repacked the shaft as directed by some other fine gentlemen on this forum, and viola! What a simple fix, and if it only lasts a year, I can live with that. I just don't want to pay for a replacement shaft, just to have to eventually grease that one too. The splines on the shaft of my truck seem to have been dipped or coated in teflon or plastic, but it still clunks. And the tube half of the assembly is peened, so that the to halves can not be seperated. So I had to pack the grease like you would hand pack wheel bearings. Rubber gloves and axle grease; works great. The instructions above are spot on, thanks for the information. ONE QUICK NOTE: I had to use a 15mm socket to remove the bolts, but do not attempt to remove nuts, as they are welded to the metal extruded tabs. Took me a few minutes to figure that out :screwy: - Good luck.

TheHomeMechanic
02-18-2010, 03:35 PM
Does anyone have any experience with the intermediate Steering shaft available from PartsPros.com? It says it's a "New & Redesigned Dorman Assembly". It's $53.90. Just wondered if anyone used this version to fix this problem

xclodbuster
03-07-2010, 07:28 PM
Does anyone have any experience with the intermediate Steering shaft available from PartsPros.com? It says it's a "New & Redesigned Dorman Assembly". It's $53.90. Just wondered if anyone used this version to fix this problem

Same as the one from NAPA.


Straight from the NAPA Web Site: ((((see Manufacturer))))

Intermediate Steering Shaft
Product Line: NAPA Power Steering Parts

Part Number: NPS 73061

Price:Unit 61.59 Each

Features & Benefits Replacement Intermediate Steering Shaft Duplicates Original Equipment In Fit & Function

Warranty Warranty information is unavailable.

Attributes Contents : (1) Shaft
Manufacturer : Dorman Automotive Manufacturing
Manufacturer Part Number : 425-176
Style Name : OE Replacement

TheHomeMechanic
03-12-2010, 03:23 PM
Thanks, I bought the one from NAPA. Took me less than an hour to replace. I did have to unbolt the accelerator pedal to get mine out.

Crane-Engineer
04-27-2010, 09:07 PM
Thanks everyone for the insight. I got brave & fixed my '04 Silverado tonight. I took my time & read all the repair manual sections. I did use an Autozone "Dorman" Lifetime part. ($75 for the part, and $20 for a Haynes repair manual) NAPA refused to look more thoroughly for the part, and usually they are the ones I can count on. My local Autozone had one in stock for $75, and let me tell you something; I am an engineer and couldn't believe how much improved the new shaft design is! The length of engagement between the old 'splined' slide vs. the new round w/ flats design is considerable. The length of engagement should reduce any appreciable noise to a level that may not even be detectable even once it wears in a little. After preparing the new shaft to go in (inspection & marking to match removed shaft match marks) I lubricated the 'slide' heavily with Marine wheel bearing grease. Anyone can do this, just remember to tie the steering wheel into place (I used a small ratchet strap attached to the passenger door pull.) I hope it lasts as long as I think it will.:biggrin:

xxxyyyzzz
05-26-2010, 09:08 AM
I add something that would add onto response by ukrkoz.
I too replaced the UPPER intermediate shaft in about an hour without removing the gas pedal, although that would have only added 5 minutes.

Once the top universal is disconnected insdie the cab and pulled out of the way, if the lower joint in the engine compartment won't come loose after the bolt is removed, then lightly clamp a visegrip below the taper of the shaft and tap on its front side to get the shaft to move toward the firewall. My shaft was in the hole so tightly it would not move manually.
On reinstallation I put my visegrip above the taper on the shaft and tapped the shaft to the front to get it into the hole.
I would also add that in the cab, I removed the nut because the bolt had an antirotation clip welded to it. In the engine compartment I removed the bolt because the nut had the antirotation clip welded to it.
If you "can't get the nut off" and are rounding the nut, focus on the other end and remove the bolt.
There was enough room to tilt the shaft while it was in the rubber firewall boot to get it out without removing the gas pedal for me.

jzickafo
06-27-2010, 09:13 AM
Do you have to disable the Airbag system to replace steering shaft? I have 2001 Silverado 4x4. I have the locking pin and new replacement model. It's been clunking for a couple years now and finally decided to replace it.

ukrkoz
06-27-2010, 10:01 AM
Do you have to disable the Airbag system to replace steering shaft? I have 2001 Silverado 4x4. I have the locking pin and new replacement model. It's been clunking for a couple years now and finally decided to replace it.

no. but to keep in you at peace, disconnect battery negative. you will be working nowhere close any sensors and such, but just in case.
do NOT forget to lock the steering wheel. OEM lock has some play in it, so what folks do, they ties seat belt around steering wheel to hold it in position. AFTER you locked it with steering column lock. not fun to cross splines and end up with crooked steering wheel.

i read post above. 1 hour? took me maybe 15 min-s. unless there's something really stuck, rusted, etc. it's plug'n'play job. worst part for me was to wedge my 6'5'' onto the floor and upside down. pre-spray nuts and splines with quick wrench or something, about 5 min's before you start the job.

jzickafo
06-27-2010, 12:03 PM
Thank you. I can understand fitting up under the dash area. I am smaller than you are (5'5") but still see it being a challenge to get up in there. I do have the steering locking tool. The so called easy jobs always pop up with a problem. My luck it will be stuck in there and reaching up in there to pop it loose will be a pain. I really do appreciate the fast response. I will follow up on this just for an FYI on how long it takes.

Jayson

ukrkoz
06-27-2010, 03:39 PM
well, be honest, you just pre-set your self for troubles simply by expecting them.:runaround::runaround::runaround: called jinx.

truly, there is nothing to it. 15mm nut loosened easy. initially, i was somewhat confused, as it had bracket or something attached to bolt, so it took me some time to figure what it was all for.
and i had to use a step-stool to reach down towards nut/shaft under the hood. but that was about it. shaft came out of the boot, in my case - was easier to move it into the cabin.
if you strip the nut, and GM nuts are very soft(pun intended), just get vise grip on it. replacements ready available from any store.

steering wheel locking tool? hope you did not buy it. 3 pieces of 2x2, one across the steering wheel, 2 attached to it and supported on top of the dashboard do fine, if you need to go that fancy. seat belt works just fine.

Art's Auto
07-21-2010, 04:55 PM
I have an '03 Silverado Z71 4x4 5.3L that had the infamous steering cluck at around 50K miles. I replaced the intermediate steering shaft with a new GM part (after trying the re-lube process that didn't work). The truck was fine for another 50K miles or so and then started the "groaning" noise that these shafts exhibit at times - slowly turning the wheel while moving forward or backward around a corner produces a groaning noise. I lived with this for a while and then ordered the Dorman shaft from Rock Auto. Fixed the groaning noise, but the steering just doesn't feel right - not quite the original cluck, but sort of a clunky rattle when going over a slightly rough road. Anyone else experience something like this? I put the old shaft back in, and I'm sending the part back to Rock Auto, and they're sending me a new one. They (R/A) seem pretty responsive by the way. This repair gets tougher on my back as I get older...

Art

Art's Auto
07-25-2010, 12:55 PM
I have an '03 Silverado Z71 4x4 5.3L that had the infamous steering cluck at around 50K miles. I replaced the intermediate steering shaft with a new GM part (after trying the re-lube process that didn't work). The truck was fine for another 50K miles or so and then started the "groaning" noise that these shafts exhibit at times - slowly turning the wheel while moving forward or backward around a corner produces a groaning noise. I lived with this for a while and then ordered the Dorman shaft from Rock Auto. Fixed the groaning noise, but the steering just doesn't feel right - not quite the original cluck, but sort of a clunky rattle when going over a slightly rough road. Anyone else experience something like this? I put the old shaft back in, and I'm sending the part back to Rock Auto, and they're sending me a new one. They (R/A) seem pretty responsive by the way. This repair gets tougher on my back as I get older...

Art

The replacement part arrived Friday (very fast replacement from Rock Auto - they shipped as soon as I got the bad one to FedEx and had a tracking number - took about two days), and installed it Saturday. Works great - no clunking, rattling, or groaning!

yakkk
10-01-2010, 06:51 PM
I was poking around on another forum and found a very exhaustive thread on this topic, along with a few innovative solutions to this perennial problem. I replaced mine with a Borgeson, only to have the noise return in a year or so.

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=192072

You'll have to register to read the thread, and there's 22 pages of replies, but it's well worth the time.

I may try the hose clamp method, as it only takes a minute to try.

Jack

8Pack
10-01-2010, 07:24 PM
I was poking around on another forum and found a very exhaustive thread on this topic, along with a few innovative solutions to this perennial problem. I replaced mine with a Borgeson, only to have the noise return in a year or so.

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=192072

You'll have to register to read the thread, and there's 22 pages of replies, but it's well worth the time.

I may try the hose clamp method, as it only takes a minute to try.

Jack

Don't waste your time. I tried the hose clamp, doesn't work.

yakkk
10-01-2010, 10:38 PM
Don't waste your time. I tried the hose clamp, doesn't work.

I threw one on tonight, will drive it tomorrow and see what it's like.

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