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Rear wheel rumble, can't pull


Phaltoo_ji
07-16-2004, 11:53 PM
My 1994 Geo Metro is developing a rumble in the rear wheel. I tried to pull the thing to take a look, but can't get it off. It looks like the whole drum should pull off over the lugs, but it won't budge. Or do I need to take the dust cover thing off the hub? Is there some trick? Do I just use a bigger hammer? Any practical advice would be much appreciated

- GC

dayle1960
07-17-2004, 12:10 AM
1. remove spindle cap
2.unfasten the staked portion of the nut using a suitable chisel.
3.remove castle nut and washer.
4. slacken parking brake cable by loosening its adjusting nuts
5. remove the backing plate plug, located on the back side of the backing plate
6. insert a suitable tool into the plug until its tip contacts the shoe holddown and pust hte spring in the direction of the leading shoe. This allows a greater clearance between the shoes and the drum.
7. remove the drum from the spindle.

As per chilton's.

Phaltoo_ji
07-17-2004, 09:45 PM
Thank you. I'll give it a shot!

My 1994 Geo Metro is developing a rumble in the rear wheel. I tried to pull the thing to take a look, but can't get it off. It looks like the whole drum should pull off over the lugs, but it won't budge. Or do I need to take the dust cover thing off the hub? Is there some trick? Do I just use a bigger hammer? Any practical advice would be much appreciated

- GC

Doug Rodrigues
07-17-2004, 09:50 PM
Don't hammer anything related to bearings! You'll damage them by creating flat spots on the roller bearings! Only use a hydraulic press if you have to get the bearings out of the axle housing. You may have to take the axle to the dealer and have them do that part of the job for you. You can do everything else yourself (without the hammer). Still cheaper than having them do the whole job of replacing the wheel bearing, which is what the probable cause of the noise is.

**Back again: Just read-up on removing the rear wheel bearings. It says to use a slide-hammer and a brake drum removal tool to remove the brake drum. I'll find out next weekend as I have to do the rear brakes on my daughter's Metro. It also says to use a brass drift (to prevent damage to the edge of the bearing race) and a hammer to drive the rear wheel bearings from the brake drum. How many people own a brass drift? Seems to me that it would be easier to use a 1/2 inch drive socket of the same size as the bearing race to drive it out and back in. A 1/2 inch socket extension would be what you pounded on to do the driving. I still think that the safest thing to do would be to have the dealer press the bearing out on a hydraulic press, OR rent the proper tool from the auto parts store. In any case, don't use any impact force on the bearing cage or the rollers will be damaged.

Doug Rodrigues
07-25-2004, 10:02 PM
An 11/16" socket removes the lug nuts. A cold chisel (or any tool with a sharp edge that can be lightly hammered) is necessary to pry the grease cap off the center of the drum. A 7/8" socket is necessary to remove the castle nut. The castle nut can be reused if necessary by unlocking it from the axle slot with a flat nose pin punch and torquing it later to the higher torque value of 85 ft. lbs. *Something like 55 to 87 is within normal range. Try swapping the left and right flat washers and or nuts to get a different fresh surface of the castle nut to safety later. I found it unnecessary to use a brake drum puller. The drum and bearing easily slid off the axle. When you get it off the axle, place the drum face down and cover it with the grease cap or a clean rag to keep the dirt out. If you have to replace the wheel bearing, use a 1/2 in drive socket that will fit the hole in which the bearing is seated. Drive the bearing out by hammering on a socket extension inserted backwards in the socket. Installing a new bearing can be either by using a hydraulic press OR using another larger socket that allows you to use force on the bearing race. Whatever you do, DON'T HAMMER ON THE BEARINGS THEMSELVES. You can get real fancy by renting a bearing installing tool, which won't do any better a job than using a large socket of the correct size. More than one way to do things.

If you want to do the brakes, get a flat blade screwdriver and insert it between the brake adjuster mechanism...that area keeping the top of the shoes apart and has teeth. The will release some of the top spring pressure. Be careful removing the keeper clip holding the hand brake arm pin in the top of the most rear shoe. If they get bent, you may have to go get a new one from the hardware store. As you remove the keepers, springs and pins, lay them out in front of you exactly as they came off the axle. You won't mix them up that way. Do only one side at a time. In that way, if you get confused you can always go look at the other side to know how the thing goes back together correctly.

Now is the time to observe where the most rearward keeper spring clip is in relation to the hand brake arm. Those two flat keeper springs are made differently. Notice that the most rearward flat spring is not only holding the shoe in place, but it is located behind the hand brake arm. I mention this because I put it on wrong the first time. Easy to do. However, I think that I could do the same job blindfolded now! When positioning the shoes to the wheel cylinder, be careful not to completely depress one side only of the two pistons. That will cause the other piston to pop out. Mine did. I had to clean and reinstall it, followed by bleeding that one wheel cylinder after the drum was put back on. The rest of this job is to machine the drum, if necessary, and reinstall everything you took off. No big deal. **Opps...almost forgot: The lug nut torque is only 45 ft. lbs. Don't overdo it or you'll warp the drums and/or break the lug clean-off the drum! Tire shops have a habit of doing that.

dan deutekom
07-26-2004, 09:24 PM
When I did the bearings on my geo the drivers side needed a slide hammer to get the drum off and the passenger side just slide off with out any trouble at all. The Chiltons manual says that if the drum dosn't slide off easily then you have to use a slide hammer. Luck of the draw I guess.

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