This will be the first time I tackle this. Will I need any special tools? How about specific hardware kits? Any tips?

CJ

I don't know about the ES, but if they are all disc in the front and back, you shouldn't have a problem doing them.
Disc:
1. Take tire off
2. Take two bolts holding break pad assembly together. They are located behind, so you have to reach over with a wrench.
3. Take pads w/ assembly off together. You might need to jiggle them a bit to get them off. Make sure you rest the assembly on top of the rotor and not to stretch or mangle the break line.
4. Take old pads off and use C-clamp to push the break cylinder back in. If you don't push the cylinder back in, the new pads won't fit over the rotor since they are thicker.
5. Put new pads in and replace whole assembly. Then bolt back on. Make sure everything looks lined up and in place. You should be fine if you get both bolts in. Just remember what the assembly looked like before you took it off and where it rested.
6. Place tire back on.
7. Take car out slowly and pump the breaks a few times. Since the caliper was pushed in, the first time you put your foot on the breaks it will feel loose. After that it should feel like normal.

If you have drum breaks on the rears, those are really a pain to get off. If you have less than 50k miles on those rear pads, you probably don't need to replace them. They don't wear as fast as the disc pads.

I have replaced drum breaks before and it is no picnic compared to the discs. You have to really force off the drum after loosening the spring through a small hole in the rear covered by a rubber plug using a flat screwdriver. And then you have a few springs/cables that you have to take off, and then place back on with the new pads. Then you have to place the drum back on, and adjust the spring again through the small hole.

If you're not a patient person, I would recommend getting those replaced at a break shop.

Since this is your first time, the discs should probably take about 2-3 hours(it takes me about 1hr to do both discs nowadays). The drums will depend on how hard it is to take the drum off.

So all you'll need is a large C-clamp, a wrench, and a screwdriver for the drums.

Hope this helps.

MMont is somewhat correct but hes missing some important steps that can prevent some unwanted effects, like lubricating the pins, applying disc break quiet to prevent break squeal not that you need to but you wont want that to happen. Its pretty annoying. Take a look at this site. Its not for a caravan but they are all basically the same. Good Luck.
http://www.diynet.com/diy/ab_brakes/article/0,2021,DIY_13682_2277655,00.html

Yeah, I guess I missed that since I don't do those steps. I've never had a problem with break squeal and usually don't lubricate the pins. But not a bad idea. I'll have to keep that in mind next time I change them. Thanks for the link.

How important is it to push the pistons in and cracke open the bleeder screws instead of pushing in the caliper pistons in slowly with the master cylinder cap off?

You have to remember that brake fluid absorbs moisture and is subject to contamination. You should always flush as opposed to bleed the brakes to remove these contaminates in your lines. I Always flush my lines to do so. Flushing cleans the entire system. Bleeding just cleans the particular line. A good gravity pull vacuum will be a great addition to your toolbox. Youll will be amazed how dirty your brake fluid can get. Stepping on the brake pedal with the brake lines cracked open can cause the dirt and debris to be pushed into the body of the master cylinder, thus causing damage to internal parts and seals of the master cylinder and the anti-lock brake components. Stepping on the brake pedal as someone under the vehicle opens each brake line at the wheel used to be the way you bled brakes, but not anymore.

They make special test strips which can detect high levels of moisture present in the brake fluid, but I prefer the old fashioned eye ball method personally. Remove the brake master cylinder cap and visually inspect the condition of the fluid. Brake fluid should be clear or a slight yellowish tent, so black or dark colored dirty fluid should be quite obvious even to the untrained eye.