http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=214008&highlight=cough+grind

It's been at a mechanics shop for a week. He has run through every computer, electronic, mechanical test he can think of. He has even taken the engine physically apart, and cannot locate the problem. He says it sounds like the throttle position sensor. What do y'all think?

Thanks!

EDIT:

Compression now checks out at:

#1 - 186 psi
#2 - 184 psi
#3 - 185 psi
#4 - 186 psi

Is this too high?

EDIT (again):

Those compression values are when the engine is turned over 7 times. When the engine is turned over 12 times, they range from 189-194 psi, and when turned over 18 times, 195-199 psi. A thought just popped in my head, could a clogged cat be causing this entire problem???

Thanks!

Wow, that seems pretty high to me - but what does a Haynes/Chilton's manual say is normal?

it doesn't specify a specific value. It says that the lowest pressure should not be lower than 75% of your highest.

Mechanic gave up...says I should take it to a dealer. I've been thinkin on this "clogged cat" thing overnight...I've got an enemy in the neighborhood, don't who, but I know hes there, cuz he's egged my mailbox 4 times, my car once, my girls car once, and my girls' mom's car once...could he have stuck an egg up the exhaust pipe and when it popped it caused it to plug and cause back-pressure? I pick the car up today after work (un-fixed).

Ignition module has been the suggested problem for the "cutting out" under strain....thoughts?

The compression sounds fine, but both the crank and the cam timing marks should be dead on (when you turn the motor in the right direction, turning it by hand back-ward will show the slack.

Does it run poor both hot and cold?

That one funny colored cylender may have a bad injector. I think the EGR valve is worth a second look.

It is kinda common for the 98+ fuel pumps to go bad, but I'm not so sure thats your problem.

It's kinda strange your one plug was smashed closed, you could of dropped a valve seat.
Try www.escortracing.com for more help

The timing marks are dead-on since I replaced the timing belt (before it went to the mechanic). That (replacing the belt) did make a difference, but didn't fix the problem.

Can apply 8 hg of vacuum to the EGR valve and the engine tries to die, and on the other side, putting in a blocking seal between the valve and the manifold makes no difference...so according to Haynes, the valve itself is fine.

It runs poor when both hot and cold, however, it is a b*tch to start when cold.

I've checked the injectors and so did the mechanic:
#1 - 18 ohms
#2 - 17 ohms
#3 - 18 ohms
#4 - 17 ohms
Everything I've checked said that should be fine.
I've also pulled them out and visually inspected them and replaced the o-rings.

I have no way of checking fuel pressure, but the mechanic said pressure is fine, both running and not.

How would I check if I dropped a valve seat? Would that cylinder not lose compression?

Thanks for your help guys. I'll link this thread in escortracing.com.

okay, fixed.....Spark plug wires....

My GOD!!! IT WAS ONLY PLUG WIRES?!! geez...oh well, it runs right, now.

EVERYBODY TAKE NOTE FOR FUTURE REFERENCE

Holy crap man. A lot of work and worry for plug wires.

lol...yup, BUT, I don't regret one thing I've done to that car, cause it was all beneficial and would have needed to be done anyways. Now I'm gonna go home and fabricate a ram air system. hehehe

okay, fixed.....Spark plug wires....

My GOD!!! IT WAS ONLY PLUG WIRES?!! geez...oh well, it runs right, now.

EVERYBODY TAKE NOTE FOR FUTURE REFERENCE

:2cents: Thats why I have been says alway start simple no matter how stupid it may seem. Im glad you found it though. Like you said all that other stuff is nice to know how you motor really performs and if you had any hidden problems.

lol...I actually had the wires in my hand, near the beginning, but I decided to "test" them instead. Couldn't see/feel any arcing. Replaced with wires off another car, and a couple other things I'd heard from friends and mechanics, and everything pointed towards "good"...kinda funny. If I'd bought those wires with the air filter and plugs, I'd been fine.

that egg thing sounds nasty mate.
i'd set a trap & wait for the little turkey....then pull his face off.
plugs eh.......?????

okay, fixed.....Spark plug wires....

My GOD!!! IT WAS ONLY PLUG WIRES?!! geez...oh well, it runs right, now.

EVERYBODY TAKE NOTE FOR FUTURE REFERENCE


Whew!!! But thanks for the info! Did you do an ohmeter test of the old wires and new?

Whew!!! But thanks for the info! Did you do an ohmeter test of the old wires and new?
Didn't know you could...

I tested by looking at them at night, with the car running, in a dark garage, to check for arcing. Another test was also (really risky, but I was desperate) hold the wire, and move your hand down the length of the wire from the coil to the plug while it's running, if you get a 50,000 volt jolt, replace 'em.

How do you test 'em with an ohm meter?

Put one ohmmeter lead on one end of the cable, the other lead on the other end of the cable. Should be out of the motor entirely. I don't remember what they should be any more.

How do you test 'em with an ohm meter?

I was actually looking for the what the ohm reading should be.

The lower the better. Anything over 10,000 is questionable, IMO. Looking for a misfire on my Mustang I found that my wires are about 2000 ohms each. The Accel 300+ wires on my other Mustang are under 500.

BTW I had dead wires on my Escort also. Ran like crap, smelled gas, no power under load, etc. A friend told me to change the plug wires, no matter how good they look, and sure enough that fixed it.