My car has been problematic. Seems after a high speed run on the highway for extented time (well longer then my normal in town driving) and along with damp/raining days my car will just crank with no spark nor will it fire up. When this no start condition happens I have tried to spray carb cleaner down the throttle body to no avail and also I have put a spark plug in a random plug wire boot no spark. However if I let it sit for 1/2 hour it starts fine and I can drive for days. until it happens again.

I have taken it to a dealer the morning after a no start day and they "put it on the computer" for 89.00 to tell me nothing was wrong. This problem has happend 4 times after they told me nothing was wrong. (plugs and wires were overdue and should be replaced which I have done) I understand the fact they cant find the problem if the car is running but isnt there some other way to check the car out? no codes are coming back to the computer.

btw this is on a 1999 ford escort se 2.0 ltr 5 speed. with 80,000 miles.
currently i have replaced the battery, tune up, fuel filter, coil pack, control module computer.

**update** I just replaced the crank sensor to see if that helps.

Only thing I can think of in this matter is to change your spark plug wires and spark plugs. You could have a faulty battery too. Make sure you have good gas and oil in the car. I know this stuff gets to be a pain in the Arse. Good luck man.

yes thanks I did that first and it didnt help. so far after changing the crank sensor seems to help been almost a week now

Only thing I can think of in this matter is to change your spark plug wires and spark plugs. You could have a faulty battery too. Make sure you have good gas and oil in the car. I know this stuff gets to be a pain in the Arse. Good luck man.
do you read posts or do you just ramble on..... go drive your honda. :flipa:

have you checked the alternator or did ford do that when you took it to the dealership? also, check the battery connections for corrosion and cables for bare wire or just replace the cables altogether. ford does not look at that stuff they just do diagnostics.... if that doesn't work i may be able to think of a few other things....

zx2 thanks for the tips I have checked the battery (replaced it only because it was a factory battery over 5 yrs) and cleaned the cable ends really well even the ground points. Tightend nicely. What is the best way to test the alternator at home I have used the voltmeter and that indicates it is increasing the voltage higher then the battery (in fact voltage was higher after the new battery install) You know even after I did all this I just mentioned the car still had issues.

Forgive me for rambling, and forgive me for coming into the escort scene. Just figured I would help out owners in need of help. Since you inadvertently are trying to bash me, I guess ill word in a bit. First off, I dont drive a honda. I drive a 1993 Non turbo targa
mark4 supra. My knowledge is in straight 6 2jz-Ge motor, im terribly sorry my intelligence is too great for some of you.

My car has been problematic. Seems after a high speed run on the highway for extented time (well longer then my normal in town driving) and along with damp/raining days my car will just crank with no spark nor will it fire up. When this no start condition happens I have tried to spray carb cleaner down the throttle body to no avail and also I have put a spark plug in a random plug wire boot no spark. However if I let it sit for 1/2 hour it starts fine and I can drive for days. until it happens again.

I have taken it to a dealer the morning after a no start day and they "put it on the computer" for 89.00 to tell me nothing was wrong. This problem has happend 4 times after they told me nothing was wrong. (plugs and wires were overdue and should be replaced which I have done) I understand the fact they cant find the problem if the car is running but isnt there some other way to check the car out? no codes are coming back to the computer.

btw this is on a 1999 ford escort se 2.0 ltr 5 speed. with 80,000 miles.
currently i have replaced the battery, tune up, fuel filter, coil pack, control module computer.

**update** I just replaced the crank sensor to see if that helps.

Update #2 crank sensor didnt help This am I went to start the car got no spark just cranking away. I checked voltage at injectors and the voltage is there. I check for spark out of the coil no spark. I check the voltage to the coil with the three prong wire clip the wire in the middle had voltage but the coil wasnt spitting it out. I went and tried another coil and still no start. (or spark for that matter) I just made an appointment to bring it to an car electronic service station hopefully that will be the end of this drama this is supposed to be the best guy in RI thats why I have to wait till next wednsday.

Tried cam sensor? I know when I left mine unplugged...hehe...It was hard starting and fun running. Just a thought.

Tried cam sensor? I know when I left mine unplugged...hehe...It was hard starting and fun running. Just a thought.
:banghead: Any idea where it would be on my 99 2.0 5 spped sohc motor?

lol...yeah, I got the same thing, 'cept LX model instead of SE....If you follow your fuel rail to the end opposite your crank sensor (towards your air filter) it will go right into your head at the end...kinda hard to see. You have to take off your intake manifold to change it, but to connect/disconnect it, you don't. Let me know how it goes.

Are you sure about the manifold I looked at my haynes book and just says something about a bolt and an o ring. I think I found it and I unplugged and replugged it but its still not starting. Would a cam sensor make a no fire/start condidtion?

yeah, pretty sure. I haven't done it myself, but it is kinda long (the sensor itself), Haynes tends to leave "minor" details out, I've noticed. Like, for changing your intake manifold gasket, it doesn't mention that you have to remove EVERYTHING from the firewall directly behind the manifold (all that EGR stuff). Sorry it didn't work, only other thing I could think of is your PCM (it controls your ignition timing).

I havent replaced it yet seems to be only $13.00 at napa so i may just try it anyhow. Ever hear of a full function module? cost me 191.00 that was replaced a while ago. it controls fuel and spark and the fan too. pcm just sounds expenceive-lol Normally in a no start mode the car only needs an hour and its all set been that long already and still hasnt started up this morning.

I don't know exactly what the PCM is (read it in the Haynes manual, that spark timing is determined by it {PCM, I imagine it stands for Primary Control Module}). That very well could have been what you replaced. Lets see.....all fuses ok? I assume since you took it to a dealer, all your sensors are fine, otherwise they would have noticed. hmmm...crap dude, I don't what to tell ya. I'll see what some friend mechanics say.

the dealer said nothing wrong the very next morning i had the same problem. the dealer wanted to re charge me the 89.00 to look at it again. I told them to go **** themselves. BTW just now about 3:15 pm the car started on its own. But I did buy the cam sensor although I didnt put it in yet.

hmm...I'm still stumped, anyone I've talked to has said to check stuff that has already been completely replaced. I actually printed out our convo and showed a couple mechanics so they could follow along. They're stumped too, said it prolly isn't the cam sensor, but at 80k miles, it's not a bad thing to replace. They also suggested replacing your timing belt if you haven't already, should be doing that every 70k miles. On a day when it does start, run by AutoZone and get "Lucas" brand upper engine cleaner. It's like an induction flush in a bottle. Cleans your injectors, valves, valve ports, combustion chamber, piston heads and rings. Also, if you have time, pull off your intake manifold, and use a "brush" (kinda like an oversize pipe cleaner) on the inside. You know what a saxaphone cleaner looks like? Use something like that without the cloth, then when you get all the crap out of the manifold, make sure you clean it out REALLY GOOD with some type of solvent. It's more work than most mechanics do for an induction flush, but the difference it made to my engine was unbelievable. Good luck with it.

hmm...I'm still stumped, anyone I've talked to has said to check stuff that has already been completely replaced. I actually printed out our convo and showed a couple mechanics so they could follow along. They're stumped too, said it prolly isn't the cam sensor, but at 80k miles, it's not a bad thing to replace. They also suggested replacing your timing belt if you haven't already, should be doing that every 70k miles. On a day when it does start, run by AutoZone and get "Lucas" brand upper engine cleaner. It's like an induction flush in a bottle. Cleans your injectors, valves, valve ports, combustion chamber, piston heads and rings. Also, if you have time, pull off your intake manifold, and use a "brush" (kinda like an oversize pipe cleaner) on the inside. You know what a saxaphone cleaner looks like? Use something like that without the cloth, then when you get all the crap out of the manifold, make sure you clean it out REALLY GOOD with some type of solvent. It's more work than most mechanics do for an induction flush, but the difference it made to my engine was unbelievable. Good luck with it.

I never heard of that stuff before Ill be sure to check into that though. I heard the throttle body may be coated with a teflon and if you spray or sratch it you can end up in a world of trouble. When I get rid of my deamon ill do your idea though. BTW next weds the car goes to an automotive electronic expert

sorry i haven't posted about the alternator lately.... have you checked it yet? if not the easiest at home way to do it is start the car (i realize you have had trouble w/ this) and disconnect the negative battery terminal. if the car stays running then ur alternator is fine. if not then change the alternator cuz the engine should run off of the alt. once the car is started and not the batt. if thats not the problem then let me know what that electronics expert says...... i would like to know.. good luck..

zx2 My car starts when it wants too if it wont start at first if I wait an hour it will start fine. I have a home volt meter I could test it with. How could I Also doesnt autozone test charge the car too?

Autozone tests for free, but when my Bronco blew its alternator, and died in the middle of nowhere, I managed to get the alternator out and take it AutoZone, it tested fine. I took one of the guys to my Bronco, and put it back in a jump started the truck. It died. They replaced my alternator for free AND paid for the gas required to show the guy it was bad.

do you think alternator would cause my no spark /no start condidtion?

possibly because the car runs off the alt. once the car is started. so yes your spark and all that comes from the alt. goes to the coilpack which converts it to spark and sends it to the plugs.... like i said the best at home way to test the alt. is to start the car (if it takes an hour wait then its worth it) once the car is started disconnect either battery terminal from the battery. if the car stays running then its not the alt. since the battery is only used for accessories once the car is started. if the car shuts off once you disconnect the battery w/ the car started, then your alternator is bad... ive done this many times and found that it is a proven way to test the alternator...

possibly because the car runs off the alt. once the car is started. so yes your spark and all that comes from the alt. goes to the coilpack which converts it to spark and sends it to the plugs.... like i said the best at home way to test the alt. is to start the car (if it takes an hour wait then its worth it) once the car is started disconnect either battery terminal from the battery. if the car stays running then its not the alt. since the battery is only used for accessories once the car is started. if the car shuts off once you disconnect the battery w/ the car started, then your alternator is bad... ive done this many times and found that it is a proven way to test the alternator...

Ill try anything at this point but I have to ask by disconnecting the neg cable what does it prove? I mean how does that prove the alt is no good?

because your battery does not run your car once it is started... your batt. is used to get the starter going so it can get the crank going which is attached to the crank pulley and the belt is wound around your idler pulleys and then maybe ac if you have it and the ALTERNATOR. the alternator keeps your car running once the batter does its job of getting it running. so basically it proves that your battery isn't supporting the alternator anymore because if there is constant juice coming from the battery then the car will keep going. if you cut off that constant juice it forces the alternator to run alone w/o aid from the battery...

ohh ok I understand more now. I assume I should make sure all the accories are off when I do that too right and yes I do have a/c. BTW thats the only constant is the a/c is always on before the no start happens.

some times the crank shaft dampners spin.
they're held together by rubber.at top dead center
the missing tooth should be at 2 o'clock.

so does the car turn over? or just not crank at all?

I checked voltage before starting was sitting at 13 I started the car got 14.44 put all accessories on and was getting 14. I disconnected the negative cable car stayed running and was reading 13.80.

Funny thing I noticed when I put the a/c on the cooling fan came on and when it did the voltage steadily fell. I dropped from 13.86 (12:41pm) to 13.47 (12:52).

After I was done getting reading I shut the a/c off and the voltage stayed at 14.15v

My question is would any of this cause my no start condition that has plagued me? Running the a/c and defrost is the only constant thing in my problem. (I have narrowed it down to that from about 5 things that was common).

my car turns but I get no spark ( have checked voltage at my injector plugs and I have 12 there) When in no start mode if I check for spark there is none (checked with spark tester) The harness coming into the coilpack out of 3 wires I only got 12 in the center wire. Also in no start mode I have added another coil and it still wouldnt start.
This car is the 2.0 and doesnt have a ignition module(aaccording to hayes and autozone)
The kicker is if I wait an hour or so the car will start and run fine.

so does that mean your coilpack is good? i haven't asked yet but your ignition uses a single coil for each plug right? or does it have a distibutor then one coil that provides spark to the distibutor?

oh and the voltage dropping is normal when you turn the a/c on b/ the a/c runs off the belt system and steals the amount of power being used to turn the alt. so it drops the voltage...

can you push start it?

so does that mean your coilpack is good? i haven't asked yet but your ignition uses a single coil for each plug right? or does it have a distibutor then one coil that provides spark to the distibutor?

oh and the voltage dropping is normal when you turn the a/c on b/ the a/c runs off the belt system and steals the amount of power being used to turn the alt. so it drops the voltage...

I have one coil pack for all four spark plugs. I didnt try push starting it because I had figured if I dont have spark what would push starting it do.(motor cranks in no start mode I just dont have spark)

so does that mean your coilpack is good? i haven't asked yet but your ignition uses a single coil for each plug right? or does it have a distibutor then one coil that provides spark to the distibutor?

oh and the voltage dropping is normal when you turn the a/c on b/ the a/c runs off the belt system and steals the amount of power being used to turn the alt. so it drops the voltage...

replaceing the coilpack is the first thing I tried. I save my original also just in case it was good. (which I think it is because I had these same symtoms with the old coil pack)

Have check fuel pressure, also the impact shutoff valve in the trunk? Those two especially the valve is known to close fuel for no apparent reason. And then when you less expect it runs fine.

Have check fuel pressure, also the impact shutoff valve in the trunk? Those two especially the valve is known to close fuel for no apparent reason. And then when you less expect it runs fine.
He has NO SPARK....for future posters, THERE IS NO SPARK...the engine turns over just fine, but the spark plugs DO NOT SPARK.

wow jet lee is smart and can read-lol

Thank you, I try

tomarrow this car goes to get checked im hoping they can figure it out. BTW I havent used the a/c in 2 weeks and the car has started fine. Strange egh?

well we all must be on the wrong track then...

tomarrow this car goes to get checked im hoping they can figure it out. BTW I havent used the a/c in 2 weeks and the car has started fine. Strange egh?

**update** This car went to an auto electronic shop to find,,,, nothing! he cant find it either. So I went to pick it up he told me he only found one bad ground that he repaired and told me to try to keep a log of how the no start condition happens. Well I get in the car and wouldnt you know it wouldnt fire right there in his lot. So I yelled to him and he came out to check for spark(nope was none) and he said ok leave it here ill look it over. He didnt have much time before closeing but he told me he thinks he had the right area for after he wiggled a harness the car started. He is going to look into that harness more on monday.

whats the harness go to?

update**
got the car back friday. In the main harness there was some broken wires covered in green crustys. He had to replace one of the wires and repair the other corroded wires. So I'll give this a run for a while and see if that helps me any.

anything you could've seen on your own? lol, good luck man...

anything you could've seen on your own? lol, good luck man...

Nope I couldnt it was in the harness coming out of the firewall and some of the wires had to be rerun. Basic broken wire is one thing but multi broken wires is best left to a professional. With out a scmatic would be impossible to know what goes where and what the voltages should be. Also he said it had bad grounds too-lol

gotcha...nice to hear the problems been found and is bein fixed finally.

gotcha...nice to hear the problems been found and is bein fixed finally.

so far (knocking on wood) got the bill and was $115.00 to repair/replace 5 wires and clean battery grounds under the battery tray.

so far (knocking on wood) got the bill and was $115.00 to repair/replace 5 wires and clean battery grounds under the battery tray.

ok this car has been in the shop from june till this month come to find out my problem was the computer. We put a used computer for 75.00 and that was labor and diag.

you may have a heat related problem, get a can of cool it and spay the coil pack and see if your restart time is shorten. or a starter relay that hangs on you when warm.. swap out relay to test it.

I've heard of several Escorts having this problem, but really haven't ever heard of definite solution. I know you think the problem is solve and hopefully it is, but it you have any more problems here's a couple things to try. I did have one person once tell me he was having a similar problem with his ZX-2 Escort with no fire or fuel and said he turned the key to the on position and removed and reinserted the fuel pump fuse several times trying to start the car after each removal and insertion and said on about the 10 time the car started so I don't know whether his fuse block terminal or fuse blades were corroded or what, but you could try it it's not going to cost you anything. One thing that I will recommend checking is the grounding block which is attached to the negative battery terminal to make sure all the grounds are clean, attached and in good condition. Camshaft position sensor or any other sensor being bad would set a code so I wouldn't recommend spending a lot of money on new sensors. If you have a sensor in question buy a Chilton's or Haynes manual and there will be step by step instructions on how to test most if not all the sensors. I had a similar problem once about 15 years ago with my '88 Pony not starting in cold or rainy weather and it had a bad inertia switch. I think what was happening is the spring inside the inertia switch was contracting in cold weather and breaking the circuit. Went to a junk yard and bought one for $5. and haven't had a problem since.

After a fresh oil change, I'll hold my accelerator pedal to the floor to prevent spark while cranking for 30 seconds. The engine cranks, but won't start while being held to what the computer knows or thinks is the Wide Open Throttle position. If I release the pedal during the crank, it usually doesn't try to start.

I do this by the way, to prevent the hydraulic roller-lifters from making all that racket for a second during the first start after an oil change.

That design feature's actual intent, is to allow a flooded engine to clear.