Hi All!

Got a newbiesque question for anyone willing to help out. I'm new to this type of thing (no spark).

Here's what I have:

No juice to plugs.
No juice to wires.
No juice to distributor.
No juice from ignition coil.

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A little background is in order. The car stalled at a light on my way into work. I started it up, and it seemed like it was about to stall and I gave it gas and it seemed as though not only did that not help, it made it a bit worse? A couple of tries later, it started and I took off (cars honking behind me) and made it to work. On the way home, same thing happened, and it eventually started and I made it home. The next day, it stalled and would not start.

It has started a couple of times since, but the most recent time, it ran for a couple of minutes and stalled out. No check engine light is on, no signal to be retrieved from the computer (I tried). The car will not start now.
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My next step is to test the ignition coil for two things: 1. Test the resistance as per guidelines in the Haynes manual. 2. Look for obvious hariline cracks along the coil.

Should this all check out (I'm hoping it doesn't so I can replace the darn thing and get my car back on the road), what comes next?

Thank you in advance for any light you can shed on this.

having the same problem please email me when you find out what is wrong sbramblett03@aol.com

Hi all.

The problem with my car was the ignitor module, located within the distributor. It's a cool $100 new, if you shop around, or $15 if you visit your local junkyard. Granted, it might give out at any moment, but what the hey, my car has 236K miles, so something else is going to break before the replacement. Besides, it's running now and that's all I am want from a car.

BTW, I checked out the throttle body while I was under the hood, and man, is that dirty! I'm hoping the shaking I experience while at lights will be somewhat resolved with a proper cleaning. Just waiting on the gasket to arrive before I undertake that. :-)

Thanks for the help.

Orion

I have been reading about ECU and Mazda. It may have a Mitsubishi ECU in which case it MAY be the problem. Apparently there are electrolytic capacitators made by Rubicon which leak their corrosive contents onto other electronic components nearby on the circuit board and mess them up. I think the ECU is under the right front seat?? Might have a look INSIDE it for bad smells or messy ugly stuff on the board. I carry a complete used distributor (from the wrecker's) in my trunk and a couple of tools necessary to change it. Never been out of the truck (Yet). Good luck, eh!