Speedometer reads 0 transmission wont shift out of first

Some friends brought over their 2k Sebring complainig that the speedometer is not working/ always reads 0 mph and it wont shift out of first. They brought it to LeeMyles and they want to rebuild it of course.

I expect that the sensor that feeds the speedometer also feeds the transmission sift control logic mechanism and has failed.

Also if you drive the car and get to say 20 mph and release all pressure from the gas pedal and coast to a stop, the engine stalls.

Any thoughts?

thanks....Jim

I have a 95 Sebring. I had the torque converter rebuilt after having similar problems.....car wouldn't shift out of first one morning. I was told it was the electronic transmission going into a "safe mode" so it doesn't disintegrate.

I had the same problem with my 99 sebring. Dealer said it is most likley the transmission control module (TCM) $300. I wanted a second opinon so I took it to a local auto shop. Turns out it was the output speed sensor on the tranny. $25 for the part at NAPA, $20 to install. Remember, dealerships always look for the most expensive way to repair a vehicle. Get a second opinon.

I had the same problem, and it was a speed sensor. There are 2 types , an input and output. The one with the blue o ring is the output that usually fails and has the spedometer,odometer issues. It took me an hour to find the location. Its right next to where the battery is located going into the transmission. Jack up the car on the driver side, pull the small mud guard that exposes the underneath part of the battery and you'll see it. Five minutes to fix.

yep, I'd say speed sensor too - I haven't lost one in the sebring yet, but I've replaced them in several other cars. Half the time they are physically broken (so you'll know that's the problem without any real testing : )

Hey...i Just Had This Happen On My 99 Sebring Conv.
Of Course The Dealership Stated I Needed A New Tranny!
Wanted A 2nd Opinion, So I Took It To Another Mechanic. Turned Out To Be A Sensor...under One-hundred To Fix (including Labor)...good Luck!

We have a 2001 Chrysler Sebring Convertible.

The first indication we had was that - The Speedometer read 0 (zero) nothing, and the transmission would not shift out of first (sound familiar?). We weren't to far from home (less than 2-miles) so we returned home, during the drive home after a minute or so the dash board finally displayed a 'Service engine soon'.

We did a Google search for 'sebring speedometer not working', and did we get a lot of hits. H'mmm not quite to the point of a recall I guess.

The short side of the story was: The answer came to us in this forum, thanks so much everyone for sharing your stories.

It took me longer to write this message up than it did to fix the actual problem and as mentioned by others here it also saved us over $300. The dealers understandably said "it could be anything, but it is most likely the transmission control module (TCM) $300".

We looked and found the part on AZ online, in our case a WELLS Speed Sensor Part#SU1034 Output Side $26.99.

F.Y.I - OBDII CODE (this could help some folks): In another forum (dodgeforum.com - see below) there was the mention of diagnosing the problem from the dash boards 'Service engine soon' light (OBDII Code). In that forum it mentions that if you attached an OBDII diagnostic tool that you would most cases seen read a code of ‘PO720’ which translates into "The pcm has determined that a malfunction exists in the electrical circuit for the output speed sensor."

Understand we did not get to the point of using an OBDII tester to confirm the service engine light or find that forum until later. We did not have a tester nor did we want to drive the car to our local AZ who was over 10-miles away. Note however for those who don’t know that your friendly AZ will gladly help you out by using an OBDII tester right out in front of most of their store(s) if your able to get the car to them, we did not want to take that chance.

Here is the link to that forum:
http://www.dodgeforum.com/m_271215/mpage_1/key_/tm.htm#271215 (http://www.dodgeforum.com/m_271215/mpage_1/key_/tm.htm#271215)

Here is what we did. hopefully it will help others out too.

In reading this forum we discovered it was probably the 'Output Speed Sensor' located on the transaxle that was causing our problem. Seems like it's the culprit on a lot of Chryslers and Dodges.

Although the cause of the speedometer problem is mentioned, and what fact others have experienced with some dealers pointing to the TCM Module. I wish on behalf of others to thank all those for contributing information, especially (stully14) for his diligence in locating where the part was (nice job).

For those DIY that might want a little more explanation and a few more tidbits I thought I would elaborate on stullys message.

Here is what you need for tools: One 1" Offset wrench, Ratchet wrench, or 1" semi-deep socket, drop light or flash light, and a med or small flat head screw driver (just for kicks - you'll see).

The sensor on a Sebring is white plastic, (2" long, about 3/4" around) with a 2-pin keyed connector. As Stully mentioned it's located on the transaxle (to the right of where the battery is located underneath). To access the sensor jack up the car on the driver side, although you may find you may not need to it's easiest with the drivers front wheel removed.

Pull the small mud guard located under the car behind the bumper between the nose and the driver front wheel well. The whole piece is only about 1 foot large with two pop in place inserts to hold it up in place, this is the peace that exposes the underneath part of the battery, you'll see it.

Use a drop light/flash light and locate the 'Output Speed Sensor', it's on the side of the transaxle towards the front. Disconnect the two wire connector by lifting the locking tab (up) and gently pulling it out. Here is where you may want to gently lift using a med or small flat head screw driver to lift the locking tab (be gentle). OK - Here's the fun part, use either and offset 1" box wrench, ratchet wrench, or 1" semi deep socket and remove the sensor (standard CC Loosen, CW to tighten). It's just close enough to the frame that it may be difficult to use an open end wrench and certainly wont take most short sockets.

The sensor should come out easily with a blue 'o'-ring attached, ensure the blue 'o'-ring is removed as ours stuck to the transaxle case (no big whoop). The sensor will come with a new blue 'o'-ring attached. Note that the sensor will be oily as it is in the transaxle case but it is below the fill line so don't worry.

FYI to everyone: Note, we did find some minute fine graphite looking sludge and one or two minute filings (transmission break-in and wear?) on the end when we pulled it mixed with the oil. Since the sensor is magnetic one can only wonder if the metallic sludge might have caused the sensor to appear faulty? Having one, I did attach an oscilloscope to one side of the sensor and when wiped clean and waved in front of metallic objects as it would near a gear for example did find it to be reactive (sensing).

Replacement: Clean the transaxle sensor mount with a clean rag and ensure there is no debris.

Insert the new sensor and tighten snuggly, re-attach the sensor connector housing (note it is keyed) and is attached securely.

Replace the mud flap cover underneath, catching the cover lip and re-inserting the two plastic push pins.

Mount the front tire again (if removed) and that's it...

We took ours for a short test drive and - YES IT WAS FIXED !!!

OK don't get to overjoyed after all your not the only DIY.

The ever meaningless, general cover everything SERVICE ENGINE LIGHT. You would think with LCD panels and supporting electronic pieces that car manufacturers would replace the cover all Check Engine/Service Engine Lights with a more informative LCD Message panel (O’h that’s right it might make common folks like us think we could fix the cars our self’s). H’mmm – could it possibly more quickly assist garages or service centers when speaking with them on the phone? Naa !

Anyway - We were told that to extinguish the SERVICE ENGINE LIGHT we would:

1. Have to go to a garage or mechanic with a system to reset/clear the message.
2. The old "Disconnect the cars battery for about 20-minutes".

Concerning step-2 - Yes you may lose the cars favorite radio stations, but no big deal. and yes 'on some cars' it may scare the hell out of some people when they turn the ignition back on the number of the dash board lights that might light up and stay lit initially but keep reading.

We opted for step-2 "Disconnect the cars battery for about 20-minutes".

Here's a little shortcut for you, we choose not to disconnect the cars battery from underneath the car, in the wheel well where Chrysler so wisely placed the battery but rather to "CAREFULLY" remove or disconnect the battery at the POS terminal lug up top, under the hood near the FUSE Panel and Air Cleaner (where they recommend Jump Starting the car). After loosening and removing the terminal lug we carefully isolated the POS cables (battery plus two others) and left the battery disconnected for about 20-min.

You may find or want to go shorter but in talking to several mechanics and understanding something about electronics we opted to wait the 20-min to ensure the memory properly dissipated in the cars onboard computer (aka forgot things and hopefully would reset). You can find something to do for that long, take a break you deserve it, plus you can walk around and do the rooster strut like Mick Jagger, tell your loved one how you may have just saved over $300. OK - Come Back - Reality Check !

After 20-Min carefully re-attach the battery cables, the terminal lug nut, and it's (red) safety cover.

When we turned the key (ignition) on to our delight the SERVICE ENGINE LIGHT was extinguished. YAY !

Now our mechanic friends told us on some cars a number of other message lights may come on and that you may have to let some cars run as long as (15-20 minutes or so) so as the systems car computer can relearn or calibrate itself - OK point taken.

In our case the SERVICE ENGINE LIGHT was extinguished immediately and there was no other lights or messages to extinguish.

The weird but possible stuff: In fact I may be off here but I swear some of the cars other systems are running even more efficient than before. The cars electronic radiator fan - variable speed control seems to be running more efficient, even the radio's speaker system (balance) sounds better, h'mmm that's odd no one touched any controls. Best yet even though the cars radio clock did show 12:00 (OK easy fix we reset it to the current time) after 20-30 Min all the radio stations were still preset (flash presets maybe?).

When all else fails, nothing like a good old fashion system COLD REBOOT I guess. After all it is a computer !

Time total: 15-min worth of labor (jacking up the car, wheel and sensor removal and re-attachment) + 20-30 minutes worth of battery disconnect time = all told 45-minutes of time and $26 for the Output Speed Sensor.

Told you - It took me longer to write this message up than it did to fix the actual problem.

Hopefully this will help others along the way - Keep contributing everybody it's worth the time and helps others !

Regards
-RED-

My 1999 Sebring just had the same problem and thanks to this forum I fixed it in 1/2 hour for under $24.00. I'd like to thank Red for his indepth post on the fix. The part # helped too as NAPA was able to cross reference the #.
Yea "automotive forums".