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Head Gasket Replacement


DamienZ28
06-03-2004, 10:00 AM
If anyone out there has to replace a head gasket on these vans Be warned! It was a freaking bear of a job! If you can afford it have someone else do it! On the bright side the van runs better now then it ever has, it turned out really good! If anyone is thinking about doing something like this themselves post and ill give all the blood, cuts and scapes details.

Oh and Good Luck!

Zebe9
06-09-2004, 02:22 AM
I am probably facing that...and I am gonna do it myself(except planning the heads of course!).
Thanx in advance for any hints !

Greets
Zebe :smokin:

DamienZ28
06-09-2004, 12:07 PM
Ill be more than happy to help! Im sure theres alot of other people here with good tips also!

Damien

Dan_in_WA
06-09-2004, 01:41 PM
I'm not going as far down as the head gaskets, but I'm doing the intake gaskets this weekend. Any hints?

BTW, for everyone else: I bought the GM gasket set for the intake manifold job. Inside was an instruction sheet saying to replace the 8 bolts holding the lower manifold to the engine. Something about proper clamping loads on the gaskets.... I can print it here if anyone's interested. Has part numbers and torque specs.

DamienZ28
06-14-2004, 10:01 AM
Yeah that runs along the same lines as using new head bolts (which I did) but I didn't use new intake bolts. Instead I cleaned them really well and used red locktight on them to make sure they didn,t losen up. Seven of the bolts on my intake were finger tight! I thought the gasket was the problem but it might just have been loose bolts. Just make sure to label everything and clean it before putting it back together. The coil pack on the back of the intake will probably be the worst part. The alternator is a bear also. On mine I removed the power steering pump bolts also so I could move it around and get to everything.. its not bad to do 3 bolts hold it on and there is access holes in the pully. Another thing in did was put a jack under the trans pan and removed the two front dog bones (front engine mounts). This allowed me to rock the motor alittle giving more clearence where I needed it. This will be big help on the alternator. Oh before I forget the alternator will come loose and might not want to come out. If it does this it will be easy to pull it out once the upper plenum is removed BUT! remember to set it back there before you replace the upper plenum since it really doesn't want to fit past the plenum.


Your going to want some good quality universals and sockets of differn't dept to get to everything. Also in addition to the correct tourque settings a degree wheel will come on handy also. To be on the safe you could or should get new bolts. The tourque and gegree settings are all set for new ones.

I forgot to mention this but as preventive maintence drain your coolant before you start and do a flush and fill and oil change after the job also. Once you fill the coolant levels again there is 2 Bleed screws to bleed the system of air. One is located on the thermostat housing and the other on the waterpump/heater hose lines. It will take some time to get all the air out the lines since the hear heater lines are very long.


Sorry if this is jumbeled trying to post this while working. If it doesn't make sense or if have other qeustions just post it ill stay on top of this as much as possible. Also mine was a 1999 not sure about yours or your level of experties so if you need anything just ask!


Good Luck!
Damien

Dan_in_WA
06-14-2004, 11:31 AM
I'm about 2/3 of the way through the job now; I got the lower manifold back on. I, too, had loose bolts. The two short ones on the outside, near the thermostat, (at the source of my leak!) were so loose I removed them with my fingers.

I can't help but wonder, if I'd just tightened all the bolts if the leak would've stopped.

DamienZ28
06-16-2004, 09:20 AM
Normally once it starts leaking it will continue to just at a slower rate if you retighten the bolts. Sounds like its going good! Let us know how it turns out!

Dan_in_WA
06-16-2004, 01:17 PM
Got the van running last night (Tues). Fired right up on the first turn of the key, NO SES light, so I got it right the first time! :naughty:

Drove it around a little bit after burping the system, no apparent leaks. God Bless GM for those little brass bleeder valves. :)

I'm one happy guy to have this job done; I hope it lasts!

I know why the dealership wanted $800 for this little treat, too. What a PITA.

DamienZ28
06-18-2004, 02:49 PM
Glad to hear it worked out! Yeah it is a pain to do but alot cheaper lol! Those bleeders are a handy little tool!

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