Hey, Today I'm gonna go look at a 98 eclipse gsx and I need to know is it a good price and what should I look for.

1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX
Silver 5 speed
53,000 miles
12,500 (but at dealer so I'll talk him down..... what's a good price)

Also I have a 2000 v6 Stang (auto :() And I don't really know what to look for when I get to the dealer. What should I check for and be carful of. Thanks in advance.

all right heres what you do. goto ww.KKB.com, print out a Trade in value for that car, based on Good condition, not exellent.

are you trading your stang in?

once you have the trade in value for the gsx, you'll know roughly what they own the car for. be fair, but dont give in!! i sell cars for a living.

dont forget to ask for a free CARFAX.

There are two sides to the spectrum. First, the car is worth what a buyer will pay for it. My 97 with a few less miles (35k) was $12,000 with some extras. That's because the market up here is like that. There are so many people that jump on a turbo DSM for sale because it only happens every now and then.

On the other hand, if the dealer is negotiable, make sure you don't make it seem like you're desperate to buy. If they see a teenager drooling over a car, they will NOT go down on the price because they know it will sell.

If that car has good maintenence records and looks to be in good condition inside and out, it may be worth 11 or 12 depending where you live. I'm not unhappy with spending that much, while in other states you can find a 1995 GSX with maybe 80k miles for 7000-8000 bucks. 98's are very nice though, but you already knew that.

that seems like a good price... and listen to scottsee, i'm pretty sure he is a Screwed car salesman :naughty:

Jesus christ, I just wrote this all out, and tired to post it, when the fourm went down. Here goes, again!

Its up to you, its your $, there are different opions out their, but all that matters is yours. Spend as little or as much as you want. If you want a professional opinion here is mine.
The kbb trade in value on the 98 gsx is 8500. that’s probably where they bought the car at, if not, slightly under. If I were you, I would go down to the deaership and tell them you are looking at 2 or 3 other gsx, 97-98 and have no intention of buying a car today. Ask if they do carfax (they all do), and let the salesman give you a presentation, if you see any blemishes, dents, scratches, paint ware, tire ware make sure to touch them, don’t say anything, but just lightly touch them, and nod your head, do it while you in a conversation with the salesman, so he paying attention to you, and will see you. Go over the car really well inside and out, take your time. Reamber, if your polite, and curdious, you’ll get a whole hell of a lot more then if you’re a dick! Let the salesman feel he’s in control. That’s important, the second he feels like he’s not in control, he’ll dissiper and come back with someone else. Build a good repore with the salesman, talk about everything but the car with him.

If he’s a good salesman he’ll bypass every objection you through out at him, and go through the entire call selling process the dealership hired him to do with every customer. Never forget to ask for a different salesman if you need to, if you do that, you’ll know you’ll end up with a professional, or at least one that’s preatty experienced. Its easiest if you just call the dealership, and ask for the sale manger, tell him your coming down to look at it, because your comparing it to a couple others. If you have the balls, that’s my suggestion. If you do that, he’ll automaticly put you with the best salesperson he has.

When you get to drive the car, make sure to get comfortable, ajust your mirrors, and take it on the freeway, to check all the gears. once you’ve got comfortable with the car, head back, when you get out of the car, go over it again, and ask for the carfax. That gives the salesperson time to explain to the manager that you don’t want to buy today, there are some things that you don’t like about the car, you have several to go look at, but you would like a carfax because it’s something you might be interested in (your creating doubt about the sale), . 9-10 times the manager will come out to meet you, unless it’s a good salesman, or you might get turned to a closer, depending on the dealership. Get a cup of coffe, and sit down. Let them try and earn your business by asking “what if” questions. Just keep telling them you need to see the carfax before you make a decision, besides. Once you have it, go over it to see how many registerd owners their has been, and if it was registed locally, and if your lucky enough to be at the dealership that sold it new, ask for service records, or make them commit to telling you if the 60k service has been done to it.

The key to negotiation is not to let the saleman know your even slightly interested in buying the car. There are many many different negotiation tatics, the best one I can suggest is, be nice, curtious, plessent, and stick with your “realistic #’s don’t ask for something you know you wont get. Reamber. If the ever thought they could get more then 12500 they would have asked. Make it easy for them to try and close you, or let them think they are. Take your coffee, over to a desk in the showroom, sit down and read the carfax. Eventually you’ll have to tell them what you want to do, finance wise, just say “under 300” don’t forget to bring up the thing you want looked at or fixed. Dealerships typicly have body shops beating their doors down looking for business. So the repairs are a lot less then you think. Example. I had a trade come in with a scratched up bumper, a soft dent on the hood, and one on each door the size of silver dollar, and it cost $200 to fix it all. So stick with your offers they wont be eating as much profit in fixing the probles as you think!. As soon as they get a slight intrest out of you, the’ll get some paperwork out and start fiddling with #’s. their there to sell a car, so anything on paper is better then nothing. reamber its important to let the salesman feel like he’s slowing you down, and convincing you to look a #’s. so be patient, it will take a lot of time to get to a bottem end figure. Reamber this. There is no bottem line, they could sell the car to you for whatever they want to, for a profit or a loss. That’s why its important to be nice, no one wants to give a good deal to a dick. I don’t!!!

It will probably take some time on the 4 square, with out knowing what your becon score, or credit profile, I cant tell you what % your liable to get, or if your even qualified. Theirs a lot to know about credit, that’s why there are finance manages at dealerships. That’s why you shouldn’t fill out a credit application untell you work out a price on the car. Just tell them your pre-approved at your credit union or something. Tell them its a decent rate, but you don’t reamber exactly what. If you stick in there and let the salesman hang himself by talking the price down, you’ll end up getting a good deal. It normaly takes a couple times back and forth from the desk to get what you want. Don’t hesitate to stand up and tell them if your not getting what you want that “your going to sit on the figures” because you told them up front you wernt going to buy today. If you haven’t demanded anything they’ll normaly cave, unless its an unrealistic, a less then what they paid deal. Never the less, if you do leave, call back 2 hours later and ask if they can do the deal, for what you wanted to originally. that’s how I’ve seen latterly 100’s of people get good deals. If I were you, after sitting down with the dealership, after they asked “what would it take to earn your business, right now, today,” offer 8500 + t&l.
Tell them you would buy and drive the car home today if they could do that and take care of anything unsettling. That’s where I would start. Good luck.

Damn I could of used that when I bought my car :D

Very NICE!!

what a screwed car salesman anyways

went down there and saw the car today.... But i think I was ripped off. I decided to get the car but now... I don't know. my stang was damaged so they only gave me 5000 when payoff was 6500. Car ended up being 13,220+1500 which make it 14,780. PLus gap and I was at 15.000
I also put down 1500. (papers in car and too lazy to get them). But anywayz, I have payments of 280 a month. Was I ripped off?

btw, interest rate was 9.99 %

Also got 48,000 mile warranty

boy, you got had.

did I really, How bad????
How much should it have been

i feel like i typed all that for nothing..

you must have good credit to get that kind of loan to value, who did you sign papers with. ie bank of america??

Yep that's ripped off all right.... I just would not of bought it for that price..

And all that typing wasn't for nothing scott, I'm saving that shit for future reference.. lol

Damn I knew it! Because what I did in my head was

do you have any stipulations, like proof of income, or residency that you need to give to them?

(15000x9.95)/66 months. Should that equal my payments? Thats what I though, but they said I wasn't counting the AOR which was 5.56. APR was 9.99.

I think, they have to do a couple things to the car like smog, detail and get out a couple scratches. and I have to give them 1000 in 21 days.

but you dont have any stipulations on the aproval. like having to bing in a pay stub, or utility bill?

I don't think so... I never showed them a pay stub o proof or res.

ouch.

I didn't see these posts until I got back

well.. welcome to the family. your an owner!! unless they messed up the paperwork, or you didnt sign somthing that is contigent on the loan.

did you even read what i posted? out of curiosity?

I see but lets say they did mess up on papers or something, then what should I do.

I didn't see these posts until I got back. I had left before the post was done

i posted it an hour after you made the thread.. i was on here all day at work (shhh no telling) you sure didn't wait long

wow, I feel real sorry for scottsee , took out the time to write that book, it seems like, for nothing. But it was a real good write up anyways. My dad owns a carlot hear in my town, I do some sales work for him hear when Im not busy and everything you wrote up was right on the money, but again it is sad it wasnt put to use.

well, tell me what finance instutution you signed papers with... do you know what your beacon score was? what kind of stang was it? how many miles, and what did it have for options..

holy crap when I started typing my last post this thread was still on the first page, must be a slow typer lol

well, feel good for the salesman, becasue i think he hit a home run!

... :(. I'm got screwed to hell then. So, Is there absolutly anything possible for me to do? Like what if tomorrow they say they need proof of residence or a pay stub or something?

holy crap when I started typing my last post this thread was still on the first page, must be a slow typer lol

Lol, exactly what I was thinking...

well, they would have told you that already, the only way out of the loan, is if
1. they didnt do all the paperwork correctly
2. you need POI, POR or refrecnes
3. you didnt give them a copy of your drivers licenses, or your pay off was incorrect

if that happens, they dont have a legal bindings sale agreement for what you did. sorry man

2000 v6 mustang
bad bumper & fender damage in the front-right side
61,000 miles
automatic
cd,radio,power seats,spoiler,cruise,abs,alloys
scored kinda low cause dad's chase card (MAXED) showed up

just out of curriosity, do you know what your credit rateing was? 690-720-?

http://www.kbb.com/kb/ki.dll/kw.kc.ur?kbb.WA;302290;WA063&99206;cpe+t&39;Ford;2000%20Mus tang&5;FO;D1&&&

bad book mark

Equipment
Air Conditioning
Power Steering
Power Windows
Power Door Locks
Tilt Wheel
Cruise Control
AM/FM Stereo
Cassette
Single Compact Disc
Dual Front Air Bags
Front Side Air Bags
ABS (4-Wheel)
Power Seat
Rear Spoiler
Premium Wheels

Trade-In Value $6,415

so, is it something to really stress about or is it not that bad of a screw. But I don't know how I managed 280 for 66 months @9.99 percent with the total financed was only 15,000??? HOW!!!!! they said I wasn't factoring in the interest. But if I go 15000/9.99 i get 1501, add that to 15000 and i get 16501, and divide that buy 66 months I get 250. Shouldn't that have been my payments?

so, is it something to really stress about or is it not that bad of a screw. But I don't know how I managed 280 for 66 months @9.99 percent with the total financed was only 15,000??? HOW!!!!! they said I wasn't factoring in the interest. But if I go 15000/9.99 i get 1501, add that to 15000 and i get 16501, and divide that buy 66 months I get 250. Shouldn't that have been my payments?....

go get your papers.. i'll answer your questions

ok going

i bet your total about financed is $18480 including GAP insurance (keep that!!!!!) & warrenty. they caculate all intrest into your payments, its called simple intrest

got em

So what do you need to know

damn your exactly right!!!!!!! 18000!!!!!!!!! WTF 4000 finance charges

on the longest paper, the sale agreement, should be pink. it has your mustang, and gsx all on one paper..

55 % intrest of 5.5 years brother

well, the good news is, you like the car, and thats all tham matters!

WTF That's what they said too.

well, do you want to hear what i think the bottem line really was??

yeah I like it, and I can afford it. But damn that's a chunk of change! how much you think I could have got it for?

i dont know man, i wasnt their. did you even put up a fight?

yeah.... They were say 314 payments. What do you think the bottom line was. and also asking was 12,500 and I got it for 11,300

Also If I'm able to find a way out, should I take it

scottsee,

good advice, if I ever buy a car at a dealership I will certainly follow every step of that

also I'm tired of dickhead sales man too at dealerships, I go in and test drive different cars all the time hehe, but I feel that I need to work on my presentation a little because I look rather young and most sales man think I'm some rich kid loaded and ready to buy or something (at least thats the attitude I get)

but whats worse are the real asshole dealerships where the people won't even speak to you. agh thats the worse, man I need to get that off my chest. I go into a Acura dealership and theres like a half dozen sales man standing in the front, all with their arms crossed and looking seriously at me. damn that really bugs me... hehe at least I put on a good show for those asshats creating a little rubber dust storm on my way out... :D ;) (I normally act pretty polite, they were just straight up dicks)

write what the sales contract says.

mustang trade alounce
mustang pay off
gsx sale price,
cash down
trade equity
tax
term of loan
rate
finance company

trust me, you would feel the same way if you were up their with your arms crossed.

well all they did was change the loan from 60 months to 66 months, thats all..

scotsee awsomw advice man it was totally worth typing it

Mustang trade allowance 5000
payoff is 6502
sale price 18480
down says (0) but we gave a check for 500 and 1000 to be cashed on 6/10/04
trade equity (doesn't say)
tax 883.11
term of loan 66 months
rate 9.99%

oh I found the dp, it is 1500

and you say you got the car for how much? that sale price has to be wrong, what does the very top # say. 11500, 12000?

says 11,300

ok. did you buy that from a Mitsu Dealer?

crysler, was a trade for a PT convertable.

i typed it all out, but i think you'd be better off not knowing what i think at this point.. you have a nice car bro..

Please tell me because I'm gonna try and see if they messed up on some papers.

Tell Mr Scottsee Please

well. ok...
Bad news.

it seems to me they underallowed on your trade 1500 dollars, your trade in value was 6500, they gave you 5000. so your down payment that you gave them, did nothing but cancel out any negitive equity that you had, making it a wash. your sale price on the car way 11300. "if" they bought the car at high trade in value, wich they probably didnt, on a new car, they most likley got it for less then trade in becasue its easy to fiddle the # with new cars to make it look like you got a lot, but really didnt get squat, they made a front end proffit of 2800 + the underallounce of 1500 giving them a total front end proffit of 4300 payable. ( thats 1075 dollar commision where i work).
on the finace end you have a loan to value of 135% maybe 140% you must have good credit no matter what they told you becaue your bowering alot!! with that being the case, the held a couple of points of % on the back end, also selling you a 45k warrenty and gap. gap was probably 599? and the warrenty 1500? with those three items on the back you would have somwhere between 2000 - 3500 backend gross profit, making a total net profit for the dealership of $6300 - $6700.

good news is. you can cancel the warrenty, get it taken off your loan, KEEP THE GAP.
you can also refinance the auto loan through your bank at a sugnificatly lower rate, check a credit union, or got your bank and ask what their auto loan rates are.

remember though my car was damaged. The front bumber was hanging off and the fender was bent

i accounted for that.

bumpers cost what $200, paint is $50 at a dealer cost with labor

Ok I'm gonna go hang myself now. :( But what if my name is wrong on the information because i think they had my last name as (info) on some of the papers.

probably not wrong, the computers print out the information on the paperwork, their all in the right place.

reamber you can cancel the warrenty at anytime, and get it taken off your loan, and you can always refince your loan at a diffrent bank, and get a better initrest rate, thats why i suggested not filling out a credit app before negotation price, because i was going to explain the best way of shoping for finance rate next

go ahead scotsee your info is awsome plz explain interest rates. I personally have access to dealer auctions cuz my dad used to be a used car salesman but all his freinds still are and some even own their own dealerships shopping at auction like that really let me know how bad dealerships screw ppl