Same problem as last year. Cold AC lines under the hood...doesn't get to the inside of the car. Replaced the pressure switch last year...mechanic had to tear down the dash to the firewall to replace the switch. It worked for awhile but now same deal this year. Controls are a little worn...any ideas?

Also the ignition goes on and off, car stalls, won't start, radio doesn't come on, then everything works.whole nuther issue/thread

I'd first look to see if all the cables are operating the flaps in the air distribution box.

I'll check it out and let you know if this solves the problem. thanks!

I checked the flaps and air distribution and the air seems to go where it is directed (floor, dash, defrost). no cold air is coming out in any area, even though I can hear the compressor kicking in and feel cold on the AC lines in the engine compartment all the way to the firewall. Somehow it seems like the cold air is not getting into the car.

If this is a relay or switch somewhere I am not going to be happy based on the level of effort to tear down the interior...so I am really hoping it is something else. Since I preplaced the pressure switch last year it is either another failed part or an electrical short that is killing the pressure switch.

Also, I notices a miss in the engine that I traced to a spark that is coming from the ignition coil on plug wire # 6. It jumps from the coil wire to the seam where it joins the engine. The spark is about a quarter inch long, and jumps every couple of seconds. The engine miss is subtle but definitely there....any ideas on this????

Thanks in advance!!

There are three cables controlling the flaps that you need to check, particularly the one from the heat dial to the underside of the airbox. Also there are vacuum operated flaps, you might want to check your vacuum lines under the hood and where they go into the passenger compartment at the heater core. Finally, it is fairly common for the foam baffling on the flaps to disintegrate, causing poor or incorrect air flow. There should be no arcing. Check the plug & wire for excessive resistance.

Is the air distribution box accessible with out disassembling the dash?

Also, now that you mention vacuum lines, the front door won't lock becasue the lock button drops down....then slowly returns to the unlocked position....is this another vacuum/pneumatic line issue that is related (or could it be an actuator problem)?

Thanks again for the help with this.

You can remove the center console around the shifter and a couple of screws to remove the plenum that sits under the main box & have access to the two lower cable connections. That way you can ensure the flaps are moving fully in relation to the control dials. The third connector is on the driver's side of the air box, but it only controls the flap for defrost position. You only have to remove the cover panel above the driver's feet to see it. Getting inside the main airbox is alot more in depth (hard). If you really want to go in I can try to talk you through it.

Thanks for the update. Maybe I can get to it this weekend and see where this takes me.