I read the engine has to be tilted to replace the rear plugs?
I bought my plugs last year. Not prepared to take off the engine mounts. I'd be willing to grind down a socket. Anyone here change their own plugs ?
3.4 V6 2000 Silouette

The engine must be pulled forward (after removing the front dog-bone mounts). Be prepared for back, neck, and arm pain as well as misc. cuts and abrasions...

The engine must be pulled forward (after removing the front dog-bone mounts). Be prepared for back, neck, and arm pain as well as misc. cuts and abrasions...


Pulled forward ? So i need a ceiling Beam, chain, pully and a couple fat buddies to pull ?

The rear plugs can be accessed from underneath, if you reach up past the exhaust pipe on either side.

The rear plugs can be accessed from underneath, if you reach up past the exhaust pipe on either side.

Now thats what forums are for.
Some guys are pulling their engines and your telling me I just have to jack it up and go from the back.

THANK YOU ! ! !

sdanville@grar.com

There are a couple ways to do this job..you can loosen the front "dog bone" mounts and shift the engine forward (all you are doing is tilting the engine no removing it) or you can go in from underneath.
BEWARE...you may find it diffcult to remove the plug wires from the plugs..twist them untill they loosen then remove the boot from the plug.

just changed my plugs yesterday.

I reach in from the top over the TBI and down the back. I have changed them from underneath as well. Underneath is easier as you can see what your doing.

Make sure you secure the wires as the often lay on the exhaust!!!

[QUOTE=shaneland]just changed my plugs yesterday.

I reach in from the top over the TBI and down the back. I have changed them from underneath as well. Underneath is easier as you can see what your doing.

What is the TBI ?

just changed my plugs yesterday.

I reach in from the top over the TBI and down the back. I have changed them from underneath as well. Underneath is easier as you can see what your doing.

Make sure you secure the wires as the often lay on the exhaust!!!


Yours is a piece of cake (a '93). The 2000 and up version with the "E" code 3.4l engine is a back breaker.

throttle body injection...

Yours is a piece of cake (a '93). The 2000 and up version with the "E" code 3.4l engine is a back breaker.

sorry for the lack of paying attention...

Getting ready to replace my '97 Olds Sihouette plugs, and have a couple of questions ...

There are a couple ways to do this job..you can loosen the front "dog bone" mounts and shift the engine forward (all you are doing is tilting the engine no removing it) or you can go in from underneath.


1) Does your advice apply to the '97 Silhoutte's, also ??
2) Does the engine need to be supported from above (ie., with a strap or chain from an engine hoist or overhead beam, when the front ("dog bone") engine mounts are removed ??
3) Which method (removing the engine mounts, or accessing from below) of removing/replacing the plugs would you recommend ??

Thanks in advance ...

How do you replace from below? I have jacked up and can't find where to access plugs. Do I have to remove anything to acces plugs?

From below, you can access them by reaching up through the opening where the exhaust pipe comes out. You will need to jack up the car a considerable amount of distance though. I found it just as easy to remove the ignition modules (hint...once you remove it, never put the nuts on the rear studs...makes the next time alot easier) and going at it from the top. I'm a husky guy with big arms and hands, and it's a really tight squeeze to get under the vehicle as well as fit my arm up in there. I just go at it from the top.

I've done it enough times for various repairs on the back half of the engine that it only takes a jiffy to pull the ignition module to get easy access to everything back there.

My steps:
1. Remove both dogbones
2. Use a ratchet belt strap (for tying down cargo) and thread it through the loop on the right, front corner engine support bracket going through the hole where the hood latches down. (other locations are available too). Tigten down slightly.
3. Remove the middle link of the wiper arm assembly.
4. Remove spark plug wires from ignition module.
5. Remove two front bolts and 2 rear nuts. You may need to rock the engine forward slightly make room for the rear
6. Rock engine back if you moved it forward already. Remove ignition module and set aside.
7. Change rear plugs. A universal joint and/or a stubby ratchet wrench may be helpful.
8. Reassemble is the opposite order.

Hello.It took me three hours to change plugs in my 97 olds van.Bought it used ,And the plugs were original from the factory.They were in there for 158,000!!.Had to use P-B Blaster oil to get them to loosen up.It was like they were welded into the heads! You can get to plugs from underneath the vehicle.You cannot really see them very well,But you can do them by feel.Good luck, Diesel 1962..

From below, you can access them by reaching up through the opening where the exhaust pipe comes out. You will need to jack up the car a considerable amount of distance though. I found it just as easy to remove the ignition modules (hint...once you remove it, never put the nuts on the rear studs...makes the next time alot easier) and going at it from the top. I'm a husky guy with big arms and hands, and it's a really tight squeeze to get under the vehicle as well as fit my arm up in there. I just go at it from the top.

I've done it enough times for various repairs on the back half of the engine that it only takes a jiffy to pull the ignition module to get easy access to everything back there.

My steps:
1. Remove both dogbones
2. Use a ratchet belt strap (for tying down cargo) and thread it through the loop on the right, front corner engine support bracket going through the hole where the hood latches down. (other locations are available too). Tigten down slightly.
3. Remove the middle link of the wiper arm assembly.
4. Remove spark plug wires from ignition module.
5. Remove two front bolts and 2 rear nuts. You may need to rock the engine forward slightly make room for the rear
6. Rock engine back if you moved it forward already. Remove ignition module and set aside.
7. Change rear plugs. A universal joint and/or a stubby ratchet wrench may be helpful.
8. Reassemble is the opposite order.

This was a great help for replacing spark plugs and the air control check valve. If you apply this to a 2001 with California emissions, then a few more steps are required.

Modified Steps:

1. Remove both dogbones
2. Use a ratchet belt strap (for tying down cargo) and thread it through the loop on the right, front corner engine support bracket going through the hole where the hood latches down. (other locations are available too). Rock the engine forward and tighten the strap down slightly.
3. Loosen the 2 screws on the left wiper arm assembly and separate from the ball joint (swing it to the right out of harms way)
4. Loosen the 2 screws on the right wiper arm assembly (middle of the engine compartment) and separate from the ball joint (swing it to the right out of harms way)
5. Label and Remove spark plug wires from ignition module.
6. Remove the 3 electrical connectors from the coil module (1 on the right and 2 on the left)
7. Remove the two front bolts from the coil module
8. Remove the left rear nut from the coil module. (It is located behind the small hole on the left side of the coil module mounting bracket, below the curve)
9. I could not easily remove the right rear nut so I removed the coil packs one at a time by removing the mounting screws. (2 per coil) Once the coil packs are out of the way you should have easy access to the right rear nut. (It is located behind the small hole on the right side of the coil module mounting bracket, below the curve)
10. Change rear plugs. A universal joint and/or a stubby ratchet wrench may be helpful.
11. Reassemble is the opposite order.

I did it from below using ramps on our 2001 Silo at around 50K miles. It is not easy to do, but with this engine and van nothing really is.

If you have 100K miles and this is your first plug change, then you should probably do it from above to allow you easily inspect and/or change the plug wires.