help!! gtp won't start
momof2
05-06-2004, 01:56 PM
hope someone can help me. my son has a 91 gtp. 3.4 i think-it's the bigger engine. will turn over but not start. getting fuel underhood and thru the filter, but still no start. hubby replaced the aultinator(sorry for the spelling), a month back. wondering if he pinched a wire? or could it be the ecm bad? also, what is the spec or setting that the ecm needs to be to check if it's bad.when he replaced the 15 amp inside the car at the glovebox, it blows it as soon as you try to start the car. it ran fine for him to school, but went out to try and start it and nothing. wouldn't fire. checked the plugs, they are good. fuel filter is good. what else could we check, or does anyone have any ideas??? i would greatly appreciate it. i'm ready to just blow it up, lol. thanks all!!!!!!!
Slade901
05-07-2004, 08:19 AM
Check the fuse panel cover of the fusel panel itself and it will tell you what that fuse connects to.
We need to know what that fuse supplies. If it just for courtesy lights, radio, we can leave it for now as it is not important for the engine to start. However, if that fuse is for the engine operation then it must be fixed.
Check the label on the fuse box. Make sure you are putting the same fuse rating. Don't put smaller rating or larger fuse rating. If you use a smaller rating then it will always blows since it is designed to protect lower amp devices. If you use a larger rating then it might not blow but it will melt or burn your wires and it will be hard to trace where it burns.
If you put the same rating fuse and it still blows then the wires upstream of the fuse is either rubbing on a metal ground or another ground wire. I have that happened on my vehicle and it was shorting right behind the fuse box itself and I have to remove the screws that hold the fuse box and turn it around.
Let us say the fuse is not important for engine operation.
We can diagnose the engine this way:
1. Check for spark. Get an Adjustable Gap Spark Tester with a clip. All you got to do is disconnect one spark plug wire from the spark plug and connect the Adjustable Gap Spark Tester on the end of the disconnected spark plug wire and clip it to the engine block where you can see it (one person working the car) while you crank it in the driver seat. If you got spark, try testing other spark plug wires.
If all spark plug wires are getting spark, check for proper fuel pressure using a fuel pressure gauge.
If you don't get any sparks at all. The Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKPS), if applicable Camshaft Position Sensor (CPS) are not providing the signal for the Ignition Module to tell the Ignition Coil to fire. The Ignition Module or Ignition Coils might be bad.
A lot of times it just the CKPS or CPS itself that is not working or its wires are rubbing on the engine block and thereby shorting it and no signal to the Ignition Module.
Some engine has a timing belt in addition to the timing chain. There is a small cover that you open and see the condition of the timing belt to see if it is still intact or begin to break or shred. If that timing belt breaks then the camshaft won't rotate and if the camshaft won't rotate, then the engine won't stay running and it will just keep on spinning when you crank it.
We need to know what that fuse supplies. If it just for courtesy lights, radio, we can leave it for now as it is not important for the engine to start. However, if that fuse is for the engine operation then it must be fixed.
Check the label on the fuse box. Make sure you are putting the same fuse rating. Don't put smaller rating or larger fuse rating. If you use a smaller rating then it will always blows since it is designed to protect lower amp devices. If you use a larger rating then it might not blow but it will melt or burn your wires and it will be hard to trace where it burns.
If you put the same rating fuse and it still blows then the wires upstream of the fuse is either rubbing on a metal ground or another ground wire. I have that happened on my vehicle and it was shorting right behind the fuse box itself and I have to remove the screws that hold the fuse box and turn it around.
Let us say the fuse is not important for engine operation.
We can diagnose the engine this way:
1. Check for spark. Get an Adjustable Gap Spark Tester with a clip. All you got to do is disconnect one spark plug wire from the spark plug and connect the Adjustable Gap Spark Tester on the end of the disconnected spark plug wire and clip it to the engine block where you can see it (one person working the car) while you crank it in the driver seat. If you got spark, try testing other spark plug wires.
If all spark plug wires are getting spark, check for proper fuel pressure using a fuel pressure gauge.
If you don't get any sparks at all. The Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKPS), if applicable Camshaft Position Sensor (CPS) are not providing the signal for the Ignition Module to tell the Ignition Coil to fire. The Ignition Module or Ignition Coils might be bad.
A lot of times it just the CKPS or CPS itself that is not working or its wires are rubbing on the engine block and thereby shorting it and no signal to the Ignition Module.
Some engine has a timing belt in addition to the timing chain. There is a small cover that you open and see the condition of the timing belt to see if it is still intact or begin to break or shred. If that timing belt breaks then the camshaft won't rotate and if the camshaft won't rotate, then the engine won't stay running and it will just keep on spinning when you crank it.
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