Has anyone else run into this problem? If so, how did you resove it?

Common problem. Replace. Duh.

Yea, tons of posts on here about that issue. Hoses leak at the connectors. You need to buy some new form fitted hoses, most auto parts stores have em, very common problem.

Yea, tons of posts on here about that issue. Hoses leak at the connectors. You need to buy some new form fitted hoses, most auto parts stores have em, very common problem.


A local mechanic quoted me $300.00 for the job. I have tried ordering the parts at a parts store. They tell me they aren't available due to the "pressure" fittings on the hoses. What are "form fitted" hoses?

The oil lines are pretty much a dealer item only... Gasket kit though can be bought for about 2 bux at advance autoparts though... The hoses going from to the rad from the remote oil filter are about 40 bux at the dealer, and the ones going to the engine are about 60.00. You can do the change yourself, pretty easy..

no no no people. This is a common problem I just replaced mine. Don't go to the dealer this is a simple job maybe takes an hour to finish. The part you need is made by dorman. The two part numbers are 625-100 and 625-001 depending on which set your replacing. most likely it will be the 625-100. if you do a google for "dorman oil cooler lines" you can see what I'm talking about. I went to my local carquest auto parts store and got them for around 30 bucks. I'm telling you seriously go get them you'll save time and money.

I had just found a 95 Blazer with this problem. The lady thought her engine was blown so I offered her $500 cash and took it home to find a leaky line.

Hope its this line and not a $1700 motor.

looks like its time for a new engine. I replaced the oil cooler line and leaks stopped so now it's time to replace this engine. Anyone need spare 4.3 parts looks like im gonna have some extras when I put my new one in.

no no no people. This is a common problem I just replaced mine. Don't go to the dealer this is a simple job maybe takes an hour to finish. The part you need is made by dorman. The two part numbers are 625-100 and 625-001 depending on which set your replacing. most likely it will be the 625-100. if you do a google for "dorman oil cooler lines" you can see what I'm talking about. I went to my local carquest auto parts store and got them for around 30 bucks. I'm telling you seriously go get them you'll save time and money.


Hey thanks for this time and money saving post, was wondering how your lines have held up after this long? Kinda curious as to their durability. thanks again.

You can also buy them on Amazon.com
search - automotive section,
"blazer oil"
http://www.amazon.com/gp/search/ref=nb_ss_auto/102-7272157-4984920?url=search-alias%3Dautomotive&field-keywords=blazer+oil

Whoa, two year bump.

a friend of mine replaced the lines on his 95. he said it took about 2hrs and said he had trouble with the line that connects to the engine block. these things sound like a bitch to replace. by the way, does anyone have the part# for the gasket kit (includes the gasket and o-rings for the remote oil filter) 2 of my o-rings at the filter drip oil if its parked for over an hr.

they're crush washers not o-rings... You can get them at the dealer for 2 bux...:) As for the rear line, an extention and a swivel makes easy work of it.

someone had mentioned before that there is a gasket kit at advanced auto parts that includes the gaskets for the lines attaching to the oil filter, and these crush washers. wanted to know if anyone knew the part # for them? as far as i can tell the lines them selves are not leaking, just the crush washers. With almost 204,000 miles and not knowing all previous maintanence records, the lines may be going up soon.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/94-95-S10-BLAZER-SONOMA-4WD-Oil-Cooler-Lines-Hose-S-10_W0QQitemZ8030430456QQcategoryZ46095QQssPageName ZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
is that just considered one line or two.

there is one other listed for a 95;
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/94-95-S10-BLAZER-SONOMA-4WD-Oil-Filter-Lines-Hose-S-10_W0QQitemZ8030123304QQcategoryZ46095QQssPageName ZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

The Block-to-Filter lines on 1995-only are more difficult than any other year. GM added a steel-rod brace from the engine block to the transmission bellhousing to stiffen the assembly. In 1996 and newer, the aluminum oil pan provides the extra stiffness to the engine-trans connection. 1994 and earlier have a different assembly because the filter is up on the fender, and I don't think they have the brace rods.
The oil line assembly is 2 lines crimped and braised together so they cannot be separated. The engine-to-trans brace passes between the 2 lines, so it must be removed before you can access the rear bolt on the oil lines. Best way to get at it is through driver-side wheel well with a shorty-9/16" wrench.
Also note that you do Not have to jack up the motor on a 1995. There is plenty of room after the brace is removed.

I have a 97 blazer....same problem.

We carry the lines. Dorman 625-100 to the radiator and 626-001 from the filter to the engine.

So is it more likely that it would be these crush washers than the lines?
Mine seemed to start leaking after I replaced the Oil pan and engine mounts.

Also can anyone confirm Autozone having the washer set?

It's the lines for sure.

Mine have been leaking a drop every once in a while for 7 years.

From what I have been told, even the new ones seep a bit.

If anyone needs the quick disconnects for the oil cooler line to radiator, the PN is 800-607. It is a Dorman part and Rockauto.com carries them as well. The GM cross reference is 15719697.

Typically the lines leak where the hose crimp into the pipe. I have a mess under mine but it only leaves one drip on the garage floor every couple of days. Its been like that for 5 years. I am going to change mine when it warms up outside.

I have a 98 4x4 and had the same problem with the lines leaking. I think I paid around $140 in parts (dealer) and did the job myself. It took me a couple of hours, it was a very tight fit to get the lines in. I've heard that the rubber part on the lines can break off and well, no more oil in the engine.
Someone told me that there might be a special filter that would fit on the 4x4's rather than replacing the lines. Don't know if this is true, haven't looked into it, but on the 4x4's is there an alternative to replacing the lines?

No, you will have to change them.

Tough call really, mine have been leaking for over 7 years with no failure, just a slow seep that takes days to form a drop that can fall.

To aid in not blowing them, use a quality oil filter that is not too restrictive on a remote oil filter setup.

Hey everyone,
Yesterday, I just installed new oil cooler lines on my 1998 2wd...
This was a piece of cake job, Under 1 hour.(I TOOK MY TIME) no jacking, and plenty of room to work.
DORMAN OIL COOLER LINES PART# 625-122 = 2WHEEL DRIVE
I rebuilt my old oil lines with 300psi rubber semi truck oil lines and a hack saw, I took about ten minutes to rebuild them, Then my son in law installed the rebuilt one's in his 97-2wd last night. $17.00 spent for his rebuilt lines.... The rebuilt lines seem to be much stronger then the new ones. That's the route I'm going next time...

Hey everyone,
Yesterday, I just installed new oil cooler lines on my 1998 2wd...
This was a piece of cake job, Under 1 hour.(I TOOK MY TIME) no jacking, and plenty of room to work.
DORMAN OIL COOLER LINES PART# 625-122 = 2WHEEL DRIVE
I rebuilt my old oil lines with 300psi rubber semi truck oil lines and a hack saw, I took about ten minutes to rebuild them, Then my son in law installed the rebuilt one's in his 97-2wd last night. $17.00 spent for his rebuilt lines.... The rebuilt lines seem to be much stronger then the new ones. That's the route I'm going next time...

I have to look into this.....