Well, if things don't go my way, I won't be getting my beloved FC3S RX-7 Turbo II. My next favored choices (in order) are the S14 240SX, BMW 3 Series, and Audi A4. I figure that for the price of an S14 SR20DET (plus the price of the install), I could get a turbo kit for the KA24. I realize that the KA24DE-T is more suited for drag racing, but I also like road racing (which the SR20DET would be the better engine). Needless to say, i'd be happy with either option. My question to you is, which of the two are more reliable? I have a feeling the answer will be the SR20, simply because it would be at factory specs (for now), but maybe i'm wrong. Any info and opinions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

BTW: Just for the sake of information, my budget for my new car is $7500.

sr20det is more reliable

If you are going to go turbo ka, which i recommend anyway, get the engine rebuild with stronger pistons and connecting rods, and get the greddy turbo kit. That is probaly the best kit i have ever seen, they also have an intercooler kit. MAKE SURE YOUR ENGINE IS UP TO THE TASK. Get it checked out or you WILL most likely be sorry. A rebuild would probaly be a good idea anywere near 100k miles which most 240sx' are getting near at this point. Thicker Head gasket, no more using shitty gas either. If the engine does go, they arent that expensive.

You wont be dissapointed with the results

Ok, so the Greddy/Trust kit, plus rebuild with quality parts...how much do you estimate that to cost?

the greddy kit the best youve ever seen ???hahahah try FMAX,Nsport,or realnissan kit

If you are going to go turbo ka, which i recommend anyway, get the engine rebuild with stronger pistons and connecting rods, and get the greddy turbo kit. That is probaly the best kit i have ever seen, they also have an intercooler kit. MAKE SURE YOUR ENGINE IS UP TO THE TASK. Get it checked out or you WILL most likely be sorry. A rebuild would probaly be a good idea anywere near 100k miles which most 240sx' are getting near at this point. Thicker Head gasket, no more using shitty gas either. If the engine does go, they arent that expensive.

You wont be dissapointed with the results

yea I'd like to rebuild my KA then turbo it (faster than sr20det) but it's goin to cost a shitload. How much will all this cost do you know?? Probably be a better thing just to buy a new SR20DET (found one at $1,800 @ 30k miles) and just use the rest of the money it would cost to rebuild a KA + greddy turbo to sup it up a lil bit.

I'm not meaning to hi-jack the thread or get flamed, but I do have a question on something that I keep seeing that I don't understand.

People say the KA is more suited for drag because of the torque. This good for the launch and a good pull throughout the run. Now, they also say when comparing the KA with the SR that the SR is better for road and obviously drift racing because it rev higher. That is what I don't understand. Does the SR have a longer power band? I assume it has a higher redline as well. What is the overall benefit of having this "higher revving" engine?

Again, I'm not trying to get flamed. Thanks.

Shohn

people are stupid and say KA is better for drag or whatever

learn ur shits, and every motor is suited for all types of racing

I'm trying to learn my shit. I've been reading the boards. I see something that I don't understand what am I supposed do?

Obviously every motor is suited for all types of racing when built properly, but there will still be some better then others for what ever reason.

slohan dont pay attention to that last post people around this board arent that helpfull, but to answer your question the Ka is better for drag because it has a longer stroke and is a bigger engine then the Sr20, when you drag race you dont stay in the High redline rpms that long so all that matters is raw power. The Ka is a 2.4 liter engine while the Sr20 is a 2.0 liter engine. The Red line in the Sr20 is 7 grand as for the KA 6 grand, the Sr20 can stay in the higher rpm band longer then the KA and substains less strain in doing so. also the torque comes in at a lower Rpm in the Ka compared to the Sr20 so it will have more pull but will let off around 5000 rpm. People love sr20's for drifting and auto racing mainly because you dont have to shift as much and like I mentioned before it can stay in that high red line longer. So think about it for a sec.... if the ka lets off at around 5rpm? how can you maintain a drift? easy answer is you cant thats why its not very efficient. For a normal persons needs the Ka is a very good engine and pulls like an American made car.

Thanks Zanark! You answered my question completely and then some. I appreciate your help and I agree with you about the less helpful crowd here. I have read a multiple post asking serious question and then see replies of people laughing the person off the board. Thanks again.

^ yea it is kind of sad how some people behave here. Not everyone has the time or knowledge to know everything about 240sx's, no point in belittling them or putting them down.

yeah your right

KA or SR is going to be a tossup.

Most SR's are more reliable *because* they were factory built. The KAT's with problems are usually bad builds or old engines with some idiot trying 15lbs of boost and poor tuning.

Either engine *built right* is equal, neither has enough torque advantage or weight savings to be more than splitting hairs. If everything is equal the KA should be a little more powerful due to .4 more liters (which is equal to about 17%).

For most people with newer engines KAT is cheaper (bolt on and go) for most people that will require a rebuilt first, buying an SR20DET is cheaper.

Of course the KAT will be *legal* in all but a few states, the SR not in any.

Å

Hey Alk just thought ide tell you the Sr20 is legal in all states depending on if the car passed emissions or not.

the SR20det swap isnt legal any any states as far as i know

Hey Alk just thought ide tell you the Sr20 is legal in all states depending on if the car passed emissions or not.
sorry that we poeople on this board are not that helpful

but it makes much sense for the muthafucka to go get his engine swap then have to put his KA back in just cuz ur ass lied/////

"but Zanark said it was legal!!...."

:D

"but Zanark said it was legal!!...."



I would laugh if I heard someone say something like that!

Then I was mistaken and I apologize for false information, its just seeing so many people around in my area have done these swaps and are also insured i asumed it would be legal if it passed emissions. But there was no need for the comments. Thanks.

Then I was mistaken and I apologize for false information, its just seeing so many people around in my area have done these swaps and are also insured i asumed it would be legal if it passed emissions. But there was no need for the comments. Thanks.
no need to apologize to me man, ....

but yes, there was need for a comment....and no thanks...

:) :D

the KA24 is far more reliable. When something breaks on it you can go get the parts at most parts stores for it. When something breaks on your RB or SR your car sits there waiting days/weeks for parts from Japan.

^ nope, SR parts are easily found here. The non-turboed version is used in the sentra. the Sentra uses the sr20de just not turboed. the RB you will have to wait for awhile. That was the main reason my friend chose the SR swap instead of the RB swap

Then I was mistaken and I apologize for false information, its just seeing so many people around in my area have done these swaps and are also insured i asumed it would be legal if it passed emissions. But there was no need for the comments. Thanks.

Yeah man, comments are necessary. Don't go talking about stuff you don't understand fully because "you saw it" especially when you are changing directions on another's statement.

I hate to break it to your friends, but if they get into a large enough accident were financial damages are high the insurance company on their side will rule 'illegal equipment' and not have to provide coverage (I can guarantee you they will comb through the car to figure out anything to not have to pay out a large claim). The insurance one the 'victims' side will rule 'illegal equipment' and use that to imply racing.

Chances are a fender bender will never have the 'powertrain' checked, but it's an illegal swap just as everyone speeds too, but only a few get caught.

Å

^ nope, SR parts are easily found here. The non-turboed version is used in the sentra. the Sentra uses the sr20de just not turboed. the RB you will have to wait for awhile. That was the main reason my friend chose the SR swap instead of the RB swap


this is not true, name 5 parts on them that are interchangeable...

block is different
pistons are different
pulleys are different
manifolds are different
IGNITION is DIFFERENT(thats an important one)
Cooling is different
Computer/Electrical is different
Headgasket is different.

you shouldn't even really put it in the same class as a SR20det. Yes they are both SR20's but thats it. What the similarities are and why its still called a SR is the Displacement and bore/stroke on both engines is the same. They are constructed SIMILAR to each other. this does not mean that every nut and bolt is interchangeable, they are not twins.

One of the main differences is the Ignition system, and that one engine is for FWD and one is for RWD. This design change makes the construction a bit different on the two engines, ex. manifold is different, the coolant passages/hoses/headgasket/outlets on block are all different. The belt system is different as well, Power Steering, A/C compressor.......this is all the normal type of shit things go wrong on with cars that is important to be able to get the parts exactly when you ask for them.

A lot of people are blind to maintenance, they think the only thing that will go wrong with their car is if they overboost it and blow up the engine. The thing is not a brick its a machine. It depends on different systems to all be operating properly to ensure the operation of the engine.

So say you need to do simple maintenance things on your SR20det, most of them you cannot get from the Sentra. Wires, Ignition System, Gaskets(thats an important one there), oil filters, radiator hoses, belts, serpentine belt system, power steering, air conditioner, and electrical things.

man! good shit sr20det power good shit!!!!!!

i can't add anything to what u said! i agree with u, but i fined it hard to disagree when most of what u said is facts!

i have a bltp sr20 and i waited 2 weeks for a turbo gasket!!! the whole time i ran 0 boost!!!!

i think sr are more better but it all has to do with how often the car been taken care of!

This could go on for ever :rolleyes:

Just get a 3 series, and call it good, autocross your ass off.

:evillol:

What the FUCK does parts availability have to do with the reliability of the engine??? If your engine keeps crapping out, then should that engine be thought of as reliable just because parts are easy to find??? It may be practical, yes (for a USDM engine), but reliable, not necessarily.

In general, Nissans have great reliability and can withstand a good amount of abuse (if cared for properly). SR motors are usually in bad shape since they've probably been beaten the shit out of. In terms of reliability on a fair and even level (new vs. new or rebuilt vs. rebuilt) the engines should be about the same, ESPECIALLY since more people are going KAT and most of the tuning and bugs are being worked out as we speak.

A lot of people are blind to maintenance, they think the only thing that will go wrong with their car is if they overboost it and blow up the engine. The thing is not a brick its a machine. It depends on different systems to all be operating properly to ensure the operation of the engine.


I dunno man, a car made entirely out of bricks wouldn't go very fast or last very long. You would automaticly win any car accident though...

Hey they call it a red top because the head is made out of a brick right? k cause thats what my friend told me. =(

this is not true, name 5 parts on them that are interchangeable...

block is different
pistons are different
pulleys are different
manifolds are different
IGNITION is DIFFERENT(thats an important one)
Cooling is different
Computer/Electrical is different
Headgasket is different.

you shouldn't even really put it in the same class as a SR20det. Yes they are both SR20's but thats it. What the similarities are and why its still called a SR is the Displacement and bore/stroke on both engines is the same. They are constructed SIMILAR to each other. this does not mean that every nut and bolt is interchangeable, they are not twins.

One of the main differences is the Ignition system, and that one engine is for FWD and one is for RWD. This design change makes the construction a bit different on the two engines, ex. manifold is different, the coolant passages/hoses/headgasket/outlets on block are all different. The belt system is different as well, Power Steering, A/C compressor.......this is all the normal type of shit things go wrong on with cars that is important to be able to get the parts exactly when you ask for them.

A lot of people are blind to maintenance, they think the only thing that will go wrong with their car is if they overboost it and blow up the engine. The thing is not a brick its a machine. It depends on different systems to all be operating properly to ensure the operation of the engine.

So say you need to do simple maintenance things on your SR20det, most of them you cannot get from the Sentra. Wires, Ignition System, Gaskets(thats an important one there), oil filters, radiator hoses, belts, serpentine belt system, power steering, air conditioner, and electrical things.

alright I shall not question your knowledge of sr20's anymore, you obviously know a lot more than me. It's just that I heard that a major advantage that the sr20 has over the rb25 is that the parts are easily found in america do to the sentras using the same engine. My friend who knows a lot about 240s and just got a red-top sr20 said that also

What the FUCK does parts availability have to do with the reliability of the engine??? If your engine keeps crapping out, then should that engine be thought of as reliable just because parts are easy to find??? It may be practical, yes (for a USDM engine), but reliable, not necessarily.

In general, Nissans have great reliability and can withstand a good amount of abuse (if cared for properly). SR motors are usually in bad shape since they've probably been beaten the shit out of. In terms of reliability on a fair and even level (new vs. new or rebuilt vs. rebuilt) the engines should be about the same, ESPECIALLY since more people are going KAT and most of the tuning and bugs are being worked out as we speak.

call me retarded but if I lose a part on the road and cannot get a replacement within a day (hell even under a week) I would say that is unreliable.

I don't know where you get that SR motors are terribly abused. It would be like the average 30-40k mile pull here. Not all of japan in 240SX's (silvia/180sx) are insane like us.

Å

do you guys want alot of cross over parts???

CA18DET!!!

is the CA18DET the NA model, and the SR20DET the Turbo? or what? I read Initial D, and watch the Anime, the S13 in the series has a CA18 and the Sileighty in the series has a SR20... if the 180sx and silvia are pretty much the same car what is with the engine differences?

is the CA18DET the NA model, and the SR20DET the Turbo? or what? I read Initial D, and watch the Anime, the S13 in the series has a CA18 and the Sileighty in the series has a SR20... if the 180sx and silvia are pretty much the same car what is with the engine differences?
yes you are right, the CA18DET is the NA model of the S chassis cars, and the SR20DET is the turbo model...180sx never came turboed, they all had the NA sr20's which were also known as the CA18DET's

i have just learned what initial D is last week when i went to the arcade and saw the game so i dont really know much about that.(im serious)_

hey, I have a 92 ka turbo charged with stock internals 300whp with the jim wolf tech ecu ect. It's still running.

hey, I have a 92 ka turbo charged with stock internals 300whp with the jim wolf tech ecu ect. It's still running.

running is only a small part of the picture. Mileage since adding the turbo is the real one.

Congrats on the build up, don't like anyone tell you 300HP is crap. Most that will say that are :screwy:

see I don't really believe all the high mileage shit either. If you take care of a car and have everything working like it should theres really no reason why it shouldn't be able to make 200-300rwhp everyday for a long time. I think the KA is stronger then the SR now. The construction is heavier duty and the block is made of iron. As long as fuel/spark/computer/appropriate boost level is all in check it should run perfectly fine.


Stealthj....

you need to find a company that wants to sell some CA18's and ask them to be the head salesman hehe....

Stealth you should add some stuff on this thread about the CA and its reliability, parts interchangeability etc. it would be good info for this thread.

see I don't really believe all the high mileage shit either. If you take care of a car and have everything working like it should theres really no reason why it shouldn't be able to make 200-300rwhp everyday for a long time. I think the KA is stronger then the SR now. The construction is heavier duty and the block is made of iron. As long as fuel/spark/computer/appropriate boost level is all in check it should run perfectly fine.


Well that was my point....I have heard of probably 100+ people making 'turbo' engines between the different car boards. I have found 2 years with a 'turbo' is 1.9 years of it sitting in a garage somewhere and two runs around the block.

If you build up a 200-300hp KA and tune it properly you should get to see 85-90% of the normal longevity out of it. Going higher causes a faster decrease on longevity though.

The thing most that are successful in their turbo builds come to boards only for the advice and never return other that for post build problems. However there are many that should never have attempted a build up and they are the ones that make it sound big of problems and unreliable.

So:

saying I have a KAT running just fine tells me nothing.

saying I have a KAT at 10psi making 200-300HP tells me more

saying I have a KAT at 10psi making 200-300HP that I have put 20,000 miles on and over 50 1/4 mile runs only having to change the oil and play with the fuel maps a couple times tells me a lot.

I am also not saying that a KAT cannot be every bit as reliable or more than a stock SR20DET....I am also not saying that a stock SR20DET can't be improved. I will say with either you are bound to be able to find a power level you can be happy with.

Å

CA18det not turbo?? huh??
The way I read Nissan motors is this way

CA18det

The CA stands for the motor mane the number that follows it (18) is the engine displacement (1800 cc), the (d) stands for dual overhead cam, (e) for electronic fuel injection and finally the (t) for turbo????

KA24e (not d, this is the single cam version on the KA)

KA name
24 (2400cc)
e electronic injection


VQ30DE, RB26det…..etc

Correct me if wrong, but that’s how I was informed at the Nissan dealership?

he was just joking with the nooB about him saying he learned about engines from IntialD lmao

he was just joking with the nooB about him saying he learned about engines from IntialD lmao
The joke isn't so obvious...I was wondering how a 1000+ poster could think the 180sx never had turbo ;).

For the record the CA18DET is a turboed 1.8 liter. I think all 180sx always had either the CA18DET or SR20DET, yet silvias could be had with CA18DE and SR20DE.

I am still learning though....

Å

The joke isn't so obvious...I was wondering how a 1000+ poster could think the 180sx never had turbo ;).

For the record the CA18DET is a turboed 1.8 liter. I think all 180sx always had either the CA18DET or SR20DET, yet silvias could be had with CA18DE and SR20DE.

I am still learning though....

Å
actually 180sx's also came with the SR20DE's, i believe its the type S?im not so sure on that

and yes:), i shall be head salesman!!

and if you guys really want i can get a list of crossover parts

Just to clear the engines up, 89 (88 for silvia) to mid 91 was ca18det (also ca18de for silvia). 91 to 97? was sr20det (also sr20de for silvia to 94 and post 96 180sx type s).

I can't comment on the KA-T reliability, we never got them thank god. The sr20det is a very reliable engine and can withstand a lot of punishment. I rarely hear of anyone having anything go wrong even on fairly worked engines. One mate has a sr20det silvia making 290odd rwkw (400rwhp) @20psi on completely stock internals (including stock headgasket, pistons, cams) and pump fuel. A mob in South Australia pulled just over 500rwhp on completely stock internals a couple of weeks ago, though that was with some toluene (and lots of boost).

the ka motors i dont think ever came factory turbo. so you wouldve never gotten them anyway, no one did. you have to add the turbo yourself. i dont know much about this topic, but what ive gotten so far is that if you want a turbo, beef up the ka. if you want a known reliable engine with a turbo already, go with the sr. the ka should be reliable if you make it reliable, do regular maintenence, make sure to build up the internals, etc.

just thought id summarize it

sr, is great but, it going to cause money to get it too run 300-400hp without upgrades $1500. You will be paying the same amout building up a kaT.

I think the KA is constructed better then the SR. Also when you are going for extreme power levels the KA will prevail with its iron block. Iron is stronger then aluminum, this is a known fact.

its different for someone in Australia or Japan to comment on the SR20det reliability because those engines were sold there. You cannot say nothing goes wrong with them because I have heard of MANY sr's blowing out the block. When you fuck up the block its time for a completely new engine. No parts dealers in america stock sr20det parts, most have never even heard of it...it was never ever sold here in one single car. There are more parts in America for a pinto then a sr20det.

I have also heard horror stories about SR swaps in America. Normal car systems do not work as well or at all, such as power steering, air conditioner(thats a biggie when u live in south florida), wiring rats nest of amatuer done harness jobs.... It is not really a bolt in process, yes the engine came in that car but the sr20 equipped S chassis do have differences, one being the systems of the car are built, designed, and laid out for a RHD car.

The KA comes with a forged crank and forged rods. The only thing that really needs to be replaced is the pistons. And if what some people say on here is true, then the pistons are fine. The only problem I see is that most KA engines have a lot of miles on them. Besides that, why pay for less displacement when you can rebuild and turbo for the same price and no wiring? If you are going to do a swap, just go for the RB. I saw a guy at the track last night with an RB that he did himself.

The KA comes with a forged crank and forged rods. The only thing that really needs to be replaced is the pistons. And if what some people say on here is true, then the pistons are fine. The only problem I see is that most KA engines have a lot of miles on them. Besides that, why pay for less displacement when you can rebuild and turbo for the same price and no wiring? If you are going to do a swap, just go for the RB. I saw a guy at the track last night with an RB that he did himself.
once my CA18 blows or whatever the hell happens im going for a fully built for turbo KA !! :)

all i want is a stock 270r...

some teins, kaaz 2-way and a nice clutch would be great too...

after that, id drive with a smile so big you'd think i was in a ferrari

I'm going to replaced the piston with JE once I blow them out; Until then thier doing just fine. But I am putting 103 oct. gas once and awhile when racing.

how old are you gc8936?

any engine is pretty reliable as long as you take care of it. in other words, resist the urge to race every single civic on the road.

View Profile Welcome, stealthj. You last visited: 04-15-2004 at 07:21 PM



gc8936
(AF Newbie)

Birthday: April 25th, 1977
Last Activity: 04-15-2004 10:06 PM



all u gotta do is click on the persons name and the profile comes up with their bday most of the time its optional for peeps to enter it

forgot to do that, my bad stealth. gc8936, you're 1977? awesome, i hope you got a lotta advice on regular car repairs instead of just performance replacement parts. at least that's the general impression i get from older people. if you're a mechanic, mind if i pm you from time to time?

Do not pay any attention to my profile it's all wrong, buddies messing around. Age 27 with a 92' kat, But can give advise to any questions you have.

but u really are 27....

ok so if the sr is "more reliable", would that still be the case if he went out and got the sr stroker kit to make it a 2.2?

My thought is go with the KA, if anything, the parts are available in large quantities (pull-a-part in GA, KA is only $90, for the whole engine), larger displacement, and for the price of getting an SR and then Installation, and not to mention parts that will have to be ordered from cali, emission worries, you can use that money to beef up the KA, put new and stronger components, machine the internals for higher RPM eg balancing the rreciprocating mass, including crank etc. Might come up to a little more than you would spend on the SR but you will be in a whole new level above the SR and ready for serious boost. The benefit of low end torque, you'll be able to smoke most SRs' if you boost the KA. But the SR looks more pretty, but good looks don't get you past the finish line. Once you get the SR and want to go to the next level, you will have spent alot more. But both motors are good options, depend on what you are going to use them for.
Drag & take off KA, drifting and road races SR20, but like I said you can always invest some into the KA and have it built for higher revs and keep you .4L displacement over the SR giving you the better option. Its all about the money. Speed costs, how fast can you afford to go. was given that card four years ago when I was 18 by a shop owner. found out the hard way.

yea the hard way sux.....i prefer ka just because its already in there and the nissan dealership has the parts available. Thats just me though, i need quick easy access being its my daily driver and all, maybe when im older and am suited financially ill bust out a rb25 or something. But for now i think a ka-t would be more than enough to make me smile.

If you go with a stroker 2.2 $3500+ labor, you are going to pay out more. If you build up your KA, you have 2.4L plus alot of upgrades and still have money left. MY 92' KA-T 300fwhp with stock internals with fuel mag. upgrades still running. spend $2800 total

my KA has too many miles on it. getting new internals would cost too much money. would rather go SR20 with low miles route, cheaper and more reliable

Like I said 137, choice is yours, both are fine motors with benefits in there own ways, but rebuilding a KA and reinforcing it would be less than buying an SR and installing it. Rebuilding costs around $700, and the aftermarket parts maybe another $1500 (rods and pistons, think the crank is already forged), some good head work extra $300, all for a total of $2500.00, which is still cheaper than the cost of buying an SR and installing it.
SR $1500-$3000, w/wiring and ECU, installation cheapest I ever saw in ATL was $1300 all for a grand total of $3000-$4500. Your choice, still think the SR is Pretier than the KA, but would rather have the KA.

My 2 cents:

KA=truck motor

SR=purpose built turbocharged performance motor

You can disagree if you want, but I beat the hell out of my SR20DET (I have a 180SX & live in Okinawa Japan) and it's NEVER failed me! I'm running 1.3 Bar of boost with a Garret GT-25R hybrid (T-28 exhaust section with T-04S compressor), HKS 264 cams, & more-about 400 Hp. The important thing with the SR (or any engine you modify) is the tune. You have to have the correct air/fuel ratio at all times under boost, if not, ANY engine will be toast in short order. I prefer the SR due to the massive amount of support & aftermarket available. The KA just isn't designed to do the same thing...does that make it a bad motor, no. It's just not optimum for a truly high performance application.

you do know the KA was used in racing way before the SR was even thought about? LOL

was there EVER a Turbo KA engine from the factory? People keep telling me there was and I have NEVER heard of this before.

there never was

im not engine builder but from what i have read and know about the specs of the ka24de and the sr20 is this. first of all i own a 240sx ka24de RWD engine and my friend owns a sr20 in a G20 FWD Both Stock! I smoked him with the 240 sx with no mods! the diffrences with the 2 engines is this. the ka24de has a longer stroke. meaning that the pistions travle a greater distince VS the sr20. The sr20 however has bigger pistons and head meaning that it is good for horse power. however sometimes Tork is what is going to win your race next to lets say a Camaro,Z28 because by the time your horse power builds up the z28 is going to be gone from the amount of tork behind the engine and the RWD. so this is what im trying to say.. The RWD 240sx which has more tork than a g20 which has more Hp and less tork!
do the math.
open for smart ass remarks on my posting!
thanks!

im not engine builder but from what i have read and know about the specs of the ka24de and the sr20 is this. first of all i own a 240sx ka24de RWD engine and my friend owns a sr20 in a G20 FWD Both Stock! I smoked him with the 240 sx with no mods! the diffrences with the 2 engines is this. the ka24de has a longer stroke. meaning that the pistions travle a greater distince VS the sr20. The sr20 however has bigger pistons and head meaning that it is good for horse power. however sometimes Tork is what is going to win your race next to lets say a Camaro,Z28 because by the time your horse power builds up the z28 is going to be gone from the amount of tork behind the engine and the RWD. so this is what im trying to say.. The RWD 240sx which has more tork than a g20 which has more Hp and less tork!
do the math.
open for smart ass remarks on my posting!
thanks!
it's torque. Torque = HP...it's where you make your power in the rpm range that changes the peaks.

An SR20 from a G20 is a totally different animal than a SR20DET.

thats funny totaly diffrent its the same block and head the only diffrent thing is the piston's injectors and a turbo. its the same engine dude from what ive read sr20 has less torque but more Hp than a ka24de

Ok i am new to the nissan seen, but for past couple weeks, and months i have been doing but researching what i should when i get a 240 that im looking forward to buy before feb. So im taking this time to look into what way i should go.....the ka24det or the Sr20Det. i have pretty much made my mind up just looking for the what seller. anyways. Is it just me or do some people tend to leave out what type of Sr20Det motor they are talking about or is that person just talking about the redtop. How about comparing to a blacktop (s14 or s15) especiailly the s15 blacktop. I think that a lot of time people talk about the redtop because it is most commonly heard about correct??? Why dont you compare the Ka-T to one of the blacktops. And when someone posted cant remember who was saying to fix up the Ka it would come to a total of $2500 i dont remember seeing any turbo added to that price or did i just miss the turbo added into that price??? Sorry if i mislead any information in this thread. and yes i understand that that blacktop only had 20 more hp than the redtop.

thats funny totaly diffrent its the same block and head the only diffrent thing is the piston's injectors and a turbo. its the same engine dude from what ive read sr20 has less torque but more Hp than a ka24de

block is different, just the transmission mounting should clue anyone in on that. Cams are different. I believe the G20 fires in a different order than the JDM SR20DE. Intake is different....

Regardless look at the specs for the FWD vs RWD SR20DE:

FWD: 108kW (144hp) / 178 n-M (131 ft-lb)

RWD: 119kW (160hp) / 188 n-M (139 ft-lb)

to me a 16 hp difference in both NA engines is no where near the same engine.

You are right about the RWD version having slightly more HP (5hp) and a lot less torque (21ft-lb) than the KA24DE

i learned somthing new i didnt know the block was diffrent. i thought a sr20det FWD will bolt rite in a FWD G20.
correct?

horizontal distance is important in determining the torque in an engine. when a piston is at the top of its stroke, the connecting rod points straight down at the center of the crankshaft. No torque is generated in this position, because only the force that acts on the lever in a direction perpendicular to the lever generates a torque. meaning the longer the stroke the more the torque as stated the ka24de is better for torque which will win you the race!

a message for harlockssx dam dude you have no idea what your talking about your from japan. whats the point for you to build a race i mean rice car anway their so mutch trafic their their is no where to go. :-)
Just playing dude

i learned somthing new i didnt know the block was diffrent. i thought a sr20det FWD will bolt rite in a FWD G20.
correct?

horizontal distance is important in determining the torque in an engine. when a piston is at the top of its stroke, the connecting rod points straight down at the center of the crankshaft. No torque is generated in this position, because only the force that acts on the lever in a direction perpendicular to the lever generates a torque. meaning the longer the stroke the more the torque as stated the ka24de is better for torque which will win you the race!

the only problem is there isn't a FWD SR20DET that I know of.

the piston stuff is not so direct on the torque that is output...

There is a FWD SR20DET, in the Bluebird and Pulsar GTi-R (or something like that), they can be made to fit in a G20. Damn you to need to stop this, especially in this 8 months old thread.

There is a FWD SR20DET, in the Bluebird and Pulsar GTi-R (or something like that), they can be made to fit in a G20. Damn you to need to stop this, especially in this 8 months old thread.

I was talking USDM...but what difference does the age of a thread make...it would be alot more helpful if people bumped a related topic than start another one with the same title.

im not engine builder but from what i have read and know about the specs of the ka24de and the sr20 is this. first of all i own a 240sx ka24de RWD engine and my friend owns a sr20 in a G20 FWD Both Stock! I smoked him with the 240 sx with no mods! the diffrences with the 2 engines is this. the ka24de has a longer stroke. meaning that the pistions travle a greater distince VS the sr20. The sr20 however has bigger pistons and head meaning that it is good for horse power. however sometimes Tork is what is going to win your race next to lets say a Camaro,Z28 because by the time your horse power builds up the z28 is going to be gone from the amount of tork behind the engine and the RWD. so this is what im trying to say.. The RWD 240sx which has more tork than a g20 which has more Hp and less tork!
do the math.
open for smart ass remarks on my posting!
thanks!

Alright, the KA does have more torque(DUH?). It also has a larger bore and stroke than the SR. If you ever race someone with more horsepower than you, you will notice when you hit third gear, they kind of just leave you. It happened to me when I raced a 5.0 before the turbo went on. I was even with him until I hit third and he walked. You are not going to beat a Z28 stock. Even if you have 2000ft/lbs of torque and 25hp, that just means you'll have really good 60' and 330' but a honda civic stock is going to beat you. HP and Torque are equally important. Increasing dispacement in general usually gives equal increases in torque and HP. Stroke will usually tend to give slightly more torque than hp.

lodownlv, u are incorrect, sr20det rwd and fwd are slightly similar and yet all the parts are different, if you read the whole thread you will find that out. rwd does not use distributer, piston sizes and all are not the same either. They just named the fwd sr cause it is 2.0 liter.
KA was designed for trucks, lots of torque. SR was designed for lighter small sports cars, it has almost 50:50 weight distribution (cause aluminum), can rev higher and longer and is more of a road racing motor. Any engine can be built for different applications, for road racing SR will be more successful in doing so imo. Plus I like to make the car different in some way, the handling becomes mush better with sr too.

their isnt a honda civic made that can beet my car. so i dont even get what your saying.
LOL by the way i can smoke a z28 and 5.0 mustang no problem! ow and since your soo smart explane the relationship of hp to torque

Are you mentally challenged or are blind? He said that no matter how much torque you had, you could be beaten by a stock Civic if you didn't have any horsepower. And tell me again how you can beat 5.0s and Z28s?

their isnt a honda civic made that can beet my car. so i dont even get what your saying.
LOL by the way i can smoke a z28 and 5.0 mustang no problem! ow and since your soo smart explane the relationship of hp to torque

No but there are plenty of respectable and ricer civic drivers that can "beet" you in the 2nd grade spelling bee.

I'm sure you can smoke 5.0s and Z28s, its not that hard on the internet.

Horsepower is how fast you can spin your torque. Ever hear of somebody say they need to make X amount of horsepower to acheve Y amount of speed?

Since your so fast, why don't you post up some pics or timeslips of your car? If it is stock, ever hear of a Type R civic? He would probably hand you your ass with a recipt.

its all good dosnt realy matter if i can spell in a forum or not. im getting my ka rebuilted next week im going with drop forged pistons and rods and im getting full head work including oversized valves im going to also get the vband turbo. no honda is going to smoke me honda lover

CR from how stuff works
So if you multiply torque (in pound-feet) by engine speed (in RPM) and divide the product by 5,252, RPM is converted to "radians per second" and you can get from torque to horsepower -- from "pound-feet" to "foot-pounds per second."

uhh whats wrong with HONDAS? i mean KA-T is cool and all but a turbo B18 or H22 could get u.

plus how did u beat the Z28 SS ? and 5.0?
1nc i got a 5.0 atuo, but a Z28 ss handed over my ass (it was moded)

Are you mentally challenged or are blind? He said that no matter how much torque you had, you could be beaten by a stock Civic if you didn't have any horsepower. And tell me again how you can beat 5.0s and Z28s?


you couldn't have torque without horsepower, it would be mathematically impossible..

"You may be surprised, I know I was, but horsepower is simply a calculation based on rpm and torque. Dynos and rolling roads only ever measure torque. Horsepower is calculated after. Here's the formula:



Horsepower = Torque * RPM / 5252


So how is this formula arrived at, and where did 'horsepower' come from?

Well it's all down to the Scottish engineer James Watt (1736 to 1819), he established that a horse could pull a 550lb weight up from a coal mine at a rate of one foot every second, for an eight hour shift. This converts to 33,000 foot pounds per minute. He published these observations, stating this figure to be the equivalent of one horsepower.

We need to convert from the rotary motion of an engine to a linear motion, like the horse example. Remember we can only measure the torque of the engine, this is expressed in pound feet. A pound foot of torque is the twisting force necessary to support a one pound weight on a weightless horizontal bar, one foot from the centre of rotation. Lets rotate the one pound weight one revolution, the distance travel is 6.2832, that's Pi multiplied by the diameter, 2 feet. We have now done 6.2832 foot pound of work.

One horsepower equals 33,000 foot pounds per minute, so if we divide 6.2832 in to 33,000 we can conclude that we at 5252 rpm we are producing one horsepower, we are moving our one pound weight 33,000 feet every minute.
Therefore if we multiply the torque by rpm and then divide by 5252 we can calculate the horsepower.

Lets see what we now know:

A car will be accelerating hardest in any given gear when at its peak torque
Horsepower is a calculation based on torque.
Torque means nothing without knowing what rpm it occurs at.
Horsepower factors rpm in to the torque equation.
It's better to make torque at high rpm rather than low rpm, so we can take advantage of gearing


Answer: Horsepower is King! (the more horsepower the more torque at the wheel)

Back to the large and small engine example at the beginning, which will accelerate a car down the quarter mile the quickest? They both put out the same torque at the wheel, so I guess as the small engine is considerably lighter, it's the winner. Again its not quite as straight forward as that. What we are really interest in is the average torque at the wheels through out the complete run. High revving engines by there very nature have a small power band, in other word there torque curve is not very flat compared to large displacement engines. To keep the average torque at the wheel as high as possible we need loads of gears, and changing gear takes time. So to counter its weight disadvantage the large displacement engine has high torque through out the working rev range, therefore needing less gears. Never straight forward is it!

There you go, Torque v Horsepower according to my world!"

-Julian
Interesting article (http://www.v8914.com/Horsepower-v-torque.htm)

:loser: Wow, thanks for the info I didn't read.

it sounds to me that he just got done reading some info of the internet and now he feels smart so he is posting all shit because he feels that much more smarter now. No im not talking about you sr20power. Its just that lodwndouche or whatever his name is keeps on bringing up this horsepower torque thing in every post to make him look like he is smart or something and knows what he is talking about. But he continually shows us he is not to smart, because he thinks a rebuilt engine with a turbo will smoke any honda out there. I guess he's going to race stock hondas with his moded engine so he can feel fast too. I dont no man you seem like a douche bag that should be driving a civic to me but o well what do i know. Post pics up of your rebuilt engine with turbo and shit so we can see your grandmaster setup....

I dont no man you seem like a douche bag that should be driving a civic to me but o well what do i know.


lets improve on our trash talk ok? LOL









He should be driving a rusty old school civic with 15" cheapy wheels, neon underbody kit, led washer nozzle lights, NOS floormats, and APC seat covers...... ain't no way you can forget the weld on shit can muffler either.


some hondas are cool

I especially like 90-93 4 door accords with H22's.....
:iceslolan

uhh whats wrong with HONDAS? i mean KA-T is cool and all but a turbo B18 or H22 could get u.

That is a completely uneducated response. I have only seen a couple B18 turbo cars run in the 10s. One was in Dsport and was running 10:1 pistons and 29psi of boost with FAST. Talk about precise tuning!

Key word for that kid is "He's getting," not "he's building,"

And the other key word is

rebuilted

:lol2: :lol2: :lol2: :lol2: :lol2: :lol2: :lol2: :lol2: :lol2: :lol2: :lol2:

im building from the ground up i just got the car and blew the head valve seals and gaskets. im building!

Don't you mean "rebuildingted"?

lol, i dont seem to like that guy, everythread he posts in he pisses people off..trying to say hes all smart and everything..and for the record you are re-building, not building... unless your handmaking everysingle part..which i doubt..

Don't you mean "rebuildingted"?

no hes reblingen it dawg

mad tyte jdm shit, hes got the engine dress up kit, the chrome radiator cap, the chrome oil cap, the chrome spray paint on his steelies haha, and his secret drift forumla tire setup, 4 different brand bald used tires.

i dont piss everyone off and im not even trying to. I actualy help a lot of people. And ok im rebuilding from the ground up.
"i am smart by the way"

and for SR20DETpower im not going to mess it up like pimp my ride did. im going to make it a nice car and not going to let anyone down.

well my mommy says im smart too!!! :icon16:

I'm dumb as shit.

im so dome I kant evean pass sicksth gurade

i never said i was a rocket scientist just smoke some refer and get of my back :-)

Interesting reliability forum, would you please stop all the trash talking and get back to reliability question on sr vs ka. Nice info SR20DETpower, by the way you can find more information on torque and hp in how stuff works. But thats just so off topic.

i never said i was a rocket scientist just smoke some refer and get of my back :-)

smoking refer+240sx=BROKE AS HELL!! lol, were just messing around with you.

i think any engine with high boost will be less reliable in the long run. A fresh KA24E with low compression, such as the 89 engine. Could probaly run 6psi for a very long time. Im sure it will wear out faster the an N/A KA but it will probaly last a long time if you dont beat on it and change the oil every 3k miles or sooner.

Basic matinence and proper tuning are your best bet for making your engine last. But more power most often means a shorter life.