1995 aurora brakes

hello everyone,,,,,,i'm going to be replacing the front and rear brakes on my 95' aurora..i was told that a special tool is required to compress the caliper pistons..is this true? is there anything else to know,to make the job go smooth..i've done many brake jobs before but never on an aurora..any tips or advice would be appreciated...thanks

no its really easy prob easier than any brake job you'll ever do. at least for me it was.

Thats good news. Any suggestions on what aftermarket brake products work best?

I have been looking into RSM and their slotted rotors and ceramic pads. Knowing that this job is easier then expected is a relief :)

I used a C-clamp to compress the front.
The rears screw in....I used needlenose pliers, open, lining up each tip into the slots and screwed the piston back in. Depressing the parking brake is supposed to adjust the rear after your done

If you have the cash, slotted rotors, and ceramic pads, are the way to go. I went the cheap route, and they seem to be doing fine. Don't go to cheap on the pads cuz they'll squeek

Good tips thanks

I called RSM and they want $149 for one slotted rotor and $79.99 per pair for ceramic pads. (All in $ CDN). Seemed reasonable. ;)

I replaced my OEM pads on my ’95 at just over 80K miles (I was amazed at the longevity of the OEM pads, they must have done a great job engineering the rotor/pad size for proper levels of heat dissipation). Among the easiest pad replacement front and rear of any I’ve done. I was amazed. No special tools (a large C-Clamp to compress) were required. I consulted my father (a former VP of Engineering at Wagner Electric Corporation and a supplier of both OEM and aftermarket braking products) he recommended Raybestos or going with the OEM replacement directly as specified by GM. The OEMs cost me about $100 all around. That is pretty steep but of course I get that, “great GM feeling”. Good luck.

Good tips thanks

I called RSM and they want $149 for one slotted rotor and $79.99 per pair for ceramic pads. (All in $ CDN). Seemed reasonable. ;)

All right, so call that $350 USD for the front alone. I doubt you're stopping any quicker than I am. I'll grant you that you have less brake dust on your wheels thanks to the ceramic pads, but when I can do both rotors and pads for $60 total, that's a lot of brake jobs to add up to $350. I'll be the first to admit my cheap-o chinese rotors are more prone to warpage, but I drive pretty easy and just do a 45 mile commute to work through rural areas. Not a whole lot of stopping going on. I guess maybe there is the occasional cow in the road :)

<laugh> I guess I just revealed myself as a nascar hating grandma-like driver huh?

I used a C-clamp to compress the front.
The rears screw in....I used needlenose pliers, open, lining up each tip into the slots and screwed the piston back in. Depressing the parking brake is supposed to adjust the rear after your done

If you have the cash, slotted rotors, and ceramic pads, are the way to go. I went the cheap route, and they seem to be doing fine. Don't go to cheap on the pads cuz they'll squeek
thanks alot for the info....your advice was on the money...i did however have one more question...on the rear calipers,when you screwed the piston back into the caliper bore,did you leave it in that position and re-assemble or screw it back out then re assemble??thanks again everyone

Theres a set of slotted rotors on ebay for 129/set?!?!?! Are they any good or is this another case of "you get what you pay for" heres the link if any of you want to check them out. They are from r1 concepts. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33564&item=2469453042

thanks alot for the info....your advice was on the money...i did however have one more question...on the rear calipers,when you screwed the piston back into the caliper bore,did you leave it in that position and re-assemble or screw it back out then re assemble??thanks again everyone


I left the rear caliper piston all the way in after the install of the pads.
Working the parking brake adjusts the rear calipers. Its good to do it frequently to keep them adjusted and to keep the cables from seizing up

Theres a set of slotted rotors on ebay for 129/set?!?!?! Are they any good or is this another case of "you get what you pay for" heres the link if any of you want to check them out. They are from r1 concepts. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33564&item=2469453042
Just the fact that he has a feedback of 467 with a 99% possitive rate and sels mostly rotors tells me that they are worth a try. I will probably be getting them for my 96.

LOL dsatt...don't tell me to much about your driving style ;)

The RSM slotted rotors with ceramic pads I believe also gets longer life span, with my new chrome rims, I don't want any brake dust and when I called RSM they told me they guarantee the life of their parts.

The $129 set for both front and back is a great deal. Someone wanna guinea pig these and let us know how they are..nudge nudge wink wink

I must admit, with the one brand of super cheap pads I bought I was tempted just to spray paint my front rims brownish red and never worry about dust again. I don't go QUITE that cheap anymore...

Come to think of it though, I hope I never get like my grandmother. She went 50 everywhere she went- 15MPH zones, school crossings, interstates. It was horrible.

This is another one of my dumb questions guys. Im getting alot of squeeking from the brakes. Went in for a tune up and had the guy look at the brakes. He told me the pads are new but one of the rotors needs to be shaved. Ive decided to just replace both rotors and pads. Since you guys have made it seem so easy on the pads, My dumb question is this. How easy is the Rotor change??? Anything special I need to know???

Once the caliper is off the rotor it's a piece of cake.

Just unscrew the retaining rings off the studs and discard.

Rotor falls off from there.

BTW Ceramic pads are absolutely great, NON corroding dust and much less total dust. And STOPPING power.

However, since I only take mine out of the garage once every few weeks, the first application of the brakes squeaks.

COOL Thanks rodtice

Once the caliper is off the rotor it's a piece of cake.

Just unscrew the retaining rings off the studs and discard.

Rotor falls off from there.

BTW Ceramic pads are absolutely great, NON corroding dust and much less total dust. And STOPPING power.

However, since I only take mine out of the garage once every few weeks, the first application of the brakes squeaks.
im assuming new rotors come w/ new retaining rings??? :screwy:

This is a HUGE help rodtice because just to shave the 1 rotor and put on new pads he wanted 165. I'd rather do it myself. Not too big of a price but i would rather spend the money on 2 rotors and do it right.

actually they don't, but they don't really do much anyway. When you take them off you'll see what I mean. All they do is hold the rotor on straight if the wheel is off. Once you put wheel on and TORQUE IT CORRECTLY they are useless.

Thanks again rodtice!!! Glad we have so many helpful people on this forum who really care about their cars and dont wanna screw them up!

wearever gold pads...medium grade..$27
turn the rotors down..$20

1 hr per set

The front was pretty easy but the rear was tough..the piston has to be turned to get it to release...the c-clamp worked but was tough..if there was a tool to turn the piston it would be great..but without this tool you'll feel that something is wrong but it will gradually release and go in and you will be able to fit the pads.

all together its about a 2 hr job if everything goes well

Any parts store should have the tool to turn in the piston for $8 or less.

Great, thanks again guys!!!

Just remember ceramic pads on stock rotors is not such a good idea.

I picked up a pair of Rototech slotted and cross drilled rotors for $100 CDN a each and $90 bux for a set of Wagner ThermoQuiets.

Great brakes.

If I remember correctly as long as you either have them turned or clean them with cleaner and sand them with 400grit sand paper there is no problem with OEM rotors.

For those not familar the reason rorastar brings this point up is the residue on the rotor from OEM pads contaminates the new ceramics decreasing there effectiveness.

Excellent advice Rodtice,

Here is a pic of my new brakes
http://img30.photobucket.com/albums/v91/wallacej/DSC03336.jpg

So are Wagner ThermoQuiets supposed to be ceramic pads? That is actually what I put on my car after some annoying squeaking issues. I just thought they were a premium semi-metallic...

Not the ones I got. It looks like a plate stone on the pad face. And it has a rough feel to it as well. Box said ceramic brake pads.

Can some one help? I replaced the rotors and pads on the rear 25,000 miles ago, now I need to do the front. I pulled the front tire off and was inspecting the job. For the life of me I can't see how to remove the caliber from the rotor. When I did the rear I don't remember anything tricky. I noticed on the back of the caliber that it looks to be a large alien nut, is this how to remove the caliber form the rotor? If you could give me any advice it would be greatly appreciated

The caliper is bolted on from the back side. You need an allen-wrench style tool as the bolts are cap-screw style as opposed to hex-head. I forget the exact size. The two cap screws are located on each side of the piston and may sort of be hidden from view by the rubber boot that keeps them clean. Use a small mirror, or feel around, you'll find them very easily.

My new (improved) technique is to install a bleeder hose on the bleeder screw, insert the free end into a suitable receptacle, open the bleeder screw, and then compress the caliper piston. This forces the dirty brake fluid from the caliper piston out into the receptacle and not back up into your brake system. Naturally, I re-tighten the bleeder screw prior to loosening the C-clamp that compressed the piston. This eliminates air being "pulled" back into the caliper piston.

Of course after removing the cap screws and rubber boots you will want to properly lubricate those pieces as well as the o-rings with some sort of silicon grease. DO NOT use a petroleum-based lubricant!

Once the new pads are installed and the caliper is remounted I then check the fluid level in the Master Cylinder to ensure the proper level and I top off with fresh DOT #3 (for the '95) brake fluid. Check owner's manual to ensure proper brake fluid specification. Do not mix in silicon-based brake fluids with DOT #3 - this is bad.

[QUOTE=ugsrich] You need an allen-wrench style tool, as the bolts are cap-screw style as opposed to hex-head.

C-clamp that compressed the piston. This eliminates air being "pulled" back into the caliper piston.

Is it an allen-wrench or a hex-head? I was able to fit a 3/8 allen-wrench in, but I was afraid that it might not be fitting very snugly. I didn't want to strip it out. Also so you are telling me that the front and rear caliper are different? Because I remember when I did the rear I had to turn them in to compress them.

Second question first: Yes front/rear are different. The rear caliper/piston has an adjusting feature for the parking prake. Naturally the front does not.

First question: Make certain it fits snuggly - yes the proper size allen-wrench will work if you can develope sufficient torque (mine are not long enough). I purchased a tool that is a hex (like an allen wrench) mounted in 3/8"-drive socket. If it's sloppy, it's the wrong size! Mine is a hex cap screw. (NOT a hex-head bolt.) I think you got what I was trying to say there.

Here's a pic for clarity:

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=38560

Let me know if I've helped or if you want more elaboration.

ugsrich,

Thank you for your help! I changed the front brakes out today. I didn't have the Allen-wrench, you used. It took forever to get them off with just the normal Allen-wrench. Wish I had bought the right tool for the job. Would have save a ton of time.

I have another dumb (?). I put on new ceramic pads and new rotors. This is the first time I ever-used ceramic pads on any cars. They squeal when stopping slowly. Is this common for the ceramic pads? Never had any other brake job sound that bad? If it is because of the ceramic pads, I wish I had used lower grade pad. Anything I can do to stop that awful noise with out changing to a lower grade pad?
Thanks again for your help.

I can not comment on the ceramic pads. I have no experience. When I replaced my original pads at 80,000 miles (incredible longevity), I went with OEM pads from GM. I paid more than for the equivalent brand-x, -y, or -z pads, but there is no squeaking what so ever.

I know that others in here often weigh-in with there experiences with high-tech brake pad and rotor materials. Perhaps they'll weigh-in here as well.

Glad you were able to get the new pads installed!

Many OEM's are ceramics on higher end autos.

ugsrich,

Well as it turns out the squeal when stopping slowly (as I described), part of it was just allowing the ceramic pads to slightly break in. However the majority of the squeal was from the rear passenger side. I have replaced the rear and no more squeal.

Thanks for your help!