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God I am starting to hate this car


FrancoT
03-22-2004, 09:24 PM
Ok here is what is still wrong with my car and I need some answers:

1. The back seat black leather has a rip in it now... I was wondering if anyone knew of a place in Toronto where I could pick up a used seat.

2. The back still makes that pump noise even though I replaced the air ride suspension.

3. The front end chirps over bumps and when I turn slight right. I sprayed it once with liquid wrench and it went away, but has come back and now won't go away.

Please someone help me.

I hate my car but like it at the same time.

RoraStar96
03-22-2004, 10:22 PM
1. I have had ZERO luck finding any Auroras at local wrecker yards in Toronto. When ever I ask the answer I get is...owners get em fixed....riiiight

2. Sounds like you ELC sensor is not working. Is it jacking the car up? I had the same issue. The compressor works, but the sensor wasnt tellin the compressor to disengage and it kept jackin the car up. I just disconnected the whole damn thing.

3. Tie rod end on the front wheels?

Sorry I can't be much help, but I feel yer pain.

97 silverbullet
03-23-2004, 09:38 PM
well it would be cheaper for you to get the back seat fixed by someone that specializes in leather seats such as someone that redoes old interior in cars. that pumping noise, I guess your talking about the pump for the shocks kicking on. well when you turn your car off the air is let out of the shocks when it sits over night. measure your space between your tire and fender when you get done driving for the day and then measure it in the morning you should get a difference in measurement. Because the air is letting out the pump is pumping the shocks with air. mine do that every morning. the squeaking is prob your springs on your struts. but if you wouldn't mind getting rid of your car I'm all for taking it off your hands.

ugsrich
03-23-2004, 09:56 PM
Don't know what to tell you about your torn upholstry. However, I had a problem with a suspension chirp in turns (make sure it's not your brake pad wear sensor.) In my case I was able to narrow it down to the large rubber strut mount at the top of the shock tower inside the engine compartment. Once I narrowed it down to rubber mount I used a silicon spray to lubricate the mount (do not use any petroleum based lubricants it will ruin the rubber!). The silicon spray worked great when ever the problem arouse (typically after I would wash the engine compartment). Since having completely new shocks/struts installed I no longer experience the chirping sound at any time.

Give it a try. Remember, NO PETROLEUM BASED LUBRICANTS ON RUBBER!

FrancoT
03-24-2004, 12:35 PM
Where do you live silver bullet? I am in Toronto. Two more questions: break wear sensor: my brakes are almost toast. Could it be? Also, that pump for the shocks. If I disengage it, will the shocks still work? And how do I disengage it exactly? Also, what is the number for the fog lights and if it is 9005/9006 how the heck do I install them?

ugsrich
03-24-2004, 05:09 PM
The rear shocks will still work as designed to dampen the effect of the spring with or without the load-leveling compressor operational. You simply will not get any load-leveling.

With regard to the replacement of the fog lamp bulbs it is not trivial to access the bulb as the lamp housing is surrounded by the bumper fascia in front and the air-dams below. The easiest way is to drop the plastic air-dam that covers the area just below the radiator and back to just in front of the oil pan. It is attached with those funky blind plastic push-pin fasteners. (the small diameter head pulls out from the larger washer-like portion and allows the fastener to pull free of the mounting hole). Once you’ve removed the 10 or so fasteners the entire air-dam will fall free from the back and then slide out from under the fascia. Doing this will expose the connector portion of the fog lamp. Now it’s real easy, the connector is removed pulling the locking tab down slightly and then pulling the connector back away from the bulb to disconnect it. Once the connector is removed you can simply rotate the bulb unit counter clockwise about 30-degrees and remove it from the housing. Reverse this process to insert, lock, and connect the new bulb (naturally you will rotate the new bulb clockwise). Finally, replace the lower air-dam by sliding it up under the fascia in the front and pinning it with the fasteners as you found it originally.

97 silverbullet
03-28-2004, 12:01 PM
i live in md

fluffie
03-28-2004, 05:14 PM
They had a 96 at Rushes autowreckers just out side of Hamilton
Ontario.

FrancoT
03-28-2004, 05:21 PM
What color was it fluffie?

dsatt12
03-29-2004, 01:11 AM
Also, that pump for the shocks. If I disengage it, will the shocks still work? And how do I disengage it exactly?

The fuse for that is under the back seat. You should just be able to yank it if the owners manual says it has it's own fuse.

fluffie
03-29-2004, 03:07 PM
I do not know what coulor it is just that they had one and was waiting to have it relleased from insurance company

dsatt12
03-29-2004, 08:27 PM
As for your back seat, I've been searching for some fabric repair kits after tearing the crap outta the headliner in a *borrowed* Explorer hauling lawn furniture. Those liquid leather kits from TV are all over a certain auction site for ~$10. I figure it can't hurt to try for that price.

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