ok, the time is coming to get serious about my turbo install.. here's what i'm thinking....
T3/T04 turbo (not too sure what brand yet)
27x6.5x3" rev hard stage 2 intercooler
aem ems
greddy profec-b boost controller
bov (most likely hks sequential)
wastegate (t40 or something like that.. can't remember, too tired)
aem cdi ignition system
custom made stainless steel exhaust mani, most likely ceramic coated
440 cc injectors
new plugs (not sure how much colder i have to go)
new wire set (still looking at which brand to go with)
jg edelbrock intake mani
a'pex auto timer with built in a/f monitor
whew this hurts my head
3" downpipe into either 3" exhaust or dual 2.25" exhaust
grounding kit required???
wow is that it? there's gotta be more.. oh right
9.0:1 cr pistons(suggestions?)
new rods (suggestions?)
port/polish head (most likely done at home with buddy that's a machinist)
new cam's with turbo configuration... still no idea which to get
random technology high flow cat (to stay somewhat close to street legal grr!!)
all this crazy stuff on a 97ish (getting engine swap) b18c1 engine
i'm sure i've messed up brutally somewhere... care to help me out anyone?

ya dude that sounds nice, but for the ignition, id susgest MSD, cuz they have a special set up u can get for boosted cars that u can choose how much ignition retard you want before lb of boost. I was thinking Garrett for my set up. Do you know of a way to have a 3 inch downpipe and still keep air condition, cuz Wisconsin summers are brutal, seriously.

i dunno man, i don't have ac to start with.. the 93 rs comes w/o ac & no power anything, but hey.. it's hella light :) yeah i'll look into that MSD ignition, but i'd think that aem and aem would work best together... but hey, i wanna do what's best

I would ditch the AEM ems and get hondata, but that is just my :2cents: . I feel that hondata is cheaper and does everything you need it to do. Also the MSD ignition would be a good move and the plug wires I would suggest ACCEL they are nice wires, I have a set and have had no problems what so ever, but I had a set of MSD wires and they did not fit right and just plain sucked, but hey maybe I got a bad set I dunno. For the exhaust manifold I see no reason to Ceramic coat the Stainless steel ? Why don't you just polish it? For the exhaust 3" would be best not dual 2.25, and lastly how much boost are you looking to run?

yeah i think i'll go with the MSD ignition... but i'm prettymuch stuck on the aem ems... it's quite a bit more expensive but it completely replaces your ecu.. so there's no worrying with soldering or anything... plus you can get the obd II configuration to work with it... i plan on running 15 psi... some people say i should have the block sleeved... but i have heard of a lot of people running 15 psi on stock sleeves with no problem. as for the manifold... i was planning on getting it coated so it kept the heat in better... i'm not sure if it helps with stainless steel, but if it's under $200 and helps... why not?

won't 9.5 cr pistons with block guard take 15 psi? just a thought...

9.5? i was gunna go with 9.0 just to be safe

Wait, are you saying you want the AEM cuz its got the OBD-II, but 93's have the OBD-I. Cuz the OBD-IIs have more sensors to work with, i dunno this is a guess but couldn't u do more tuning w/ an OBD-II or is it equall the same? I have the AEM tuning program on my computer cuz i thought itd be cool to download it and see what it was like. Its huge and confusing. But i have no idea to tune fuel maps though so if anyone knows that if you gimme a link or the basics thatd be cool.

yeah 93's have obd I but not once i swap in the b18c1 engine. and as for tuning it, i would most likely have that done when i take it to the dyno, granted i can find myself a good tuner

ok, is that ALL the stuff i need for a complete turbo setup? (except for like the gaskets and clamps and stuff) it'd be nice to know if i'm forgetting anything so i can price it out...

Heres my list of what I gotta get
Custom Turbo Manifold
Garrett T3/T4 TURBO
Hondata
Custom Downpipe
Tial 35mm Wastegate
HKS Blowoff Valve
Custom Intercooler Piping
Oil Lines
Silicon Hoses
Intercooler
MSD Boost Timing Manager
440cc Fuel Injectors - ne1 know any good reliable brands?
AEM fuel rail
A'pexi Boost Controller

That is everything i think I will need, for about $3800
If there are any other little things i need please post

hey!! back off! get your own thread!! :p lol just kidding... those HKS bov's seem to be pretty popular eh? oh yeah... fuel rail.. fuel pump.. fuel controller... almost forgot about those... heh that coulda been interesting eh?

lol sorry Ya i just copied and pasted it from excel to make it easier

i was just looking at the MSD ignition systems... there's the 6A, the 6AL, and the 6BTM. the 6BTM says it is the best for boosted applications.. so i'm assuming that this is the one i'd want to go with?

The MSD BTM just includes a boost timing master to retard your timing as boost increases, however, since both Hondata and AEM EMS include such a feature standard it really is not necesary.

BTW, I don't know about AEM, but Hondata recommends not running any aftermarket ignition at all. They feel that Honda did a good enough job designing their ignition, and they've got 600+ hp motors running stock ignition to back that up.

i see, so just a set of some hot wires and cold plugs and i'm good to go? i'm assuming that the stock distributor will do fine

Yeah, that should do it. I would definately recommend getting a new set of wires, but oem honda wires will work fine. Then run a step colder on your plugs and you're good to go.

excellent... any idea what the "coldness" is on the stock plugs are on a b18c1?

Honestly I can't really remember, but if you go to a parts store and tell them what motor it is and that you want a step colder they'll have no problem getting them for you.
It seems like stock are a 6 or 7.

alright, i've been pricing some stuff out on a few websites.. and this is what i've come up with so far...
T3/T04 ball bearing turbo (not too sure what brand yet) --- turbotenics/garrett $2000 usd
27x6.5x3" rev hard stage 2 intercooler
aem ems $1650 cad
greddy profec-b boost controller 370 usd
apexi auto timer 101 usd
autometer lunar boost guage 89 usd
" cobalt series air fuel ratio 72 usd
bov (most likely hks super sequential) 180 usd
turbonetics T40mm tial wastegate Evolution 204 usd
custom made stainless steel exhaust mani, most likely ceramic coated 200 cad
new plugs (heat stage 6) 75 usd
new wire set (blitz) 180 usd
skunk 2 intake mani 331 usd
a'pex auto timer with built in a/f monitor 90 usd
440 cc injectors 304 +40 for wire clips usd
in-tank fuel pump 275 usd
aem fuel rail 125 usd
aem fuel filter 89 usd
3" downpipe into 3" exhaust 400 cad
9.0:1 cr pistons(suggestions?)
eagle extreme duty H-Beam rods 300 usd
port/polish head (most likely done at home with buddy that's a machinist) 20 cad
new cam's was thinking skunk 2 stage 2 796 usd
clutchmaster's stage 1 clutch kit 355 usd
clutchmaster's aluminum flywheel 7.5 lbs (too light? what's a good weight?) 219 usd
all this crazy stuff on a 97ish (getting engine swap) b18c1 engine with lsd tranny (easier to just buy in parts?)
fpr req?
fuel pressure guage req?
total without pistons and engine swap and intercooler: 7953 usd... 10500 cad-ish... YIKES

i e-mailed the rev-hard site about the intercooler but they haven't mailed me back yet.. prolly cause it's a weekend.
as for the block and stuff, what do you guys suggest doing.. going to a scrap yard and ripping out a block from a wrecked gsr and parting up from there.. or doing the engine swap thing?

Ouch, that's a lot of money to spend. Try www.cheapturbos.com and you should be able to find what you're looking for more along the lines of 500-600 us. Plugs should only be like $10-15 at the most and if you find yourself short on cash a lot of those things will not be necesary to get you up and running but would be nice to have later on (intake mani, fuel rail & filter, cams, flywheel) and the fpr is not necesary but would be nice to have from the beginning.

yeah i suppose it is quite a bit of money.. but when you think about it... a car that's about 21000ish after mods beating a 100,000 car... i'd say it's worth it eh?

are the turbo's on that site ball bearing? that's pretty cheap if they are

for the plugs, that's the set of 4..
well i'm getting not getting everything at once.. going to get the engine, rip it apart, do all the internal work, reassemble the block/head, then do as much of the aftermarket part replacement as i can when the engine is still out.. that way the car's down time is only like 2 weeks for dropping in the engine, doing all the clutch/tranny work, assembling the turbo and all that good stuff

alright, i've been pricing some stuff out on a few websites.. and this is what i've come up with so far...
T3/T04 ball bearing turbo (not too sure what brand yet) --- turbotenics/garrett $2000 usd
27x6.5x3" rev hard stage 2 intercooler
aem ems $1650 cad
greddy profec-b boost controller 370 usd
apexi auto timer 101 usd
autometer lunar boost guage 89 usd
" cobalt series air fuel ratio 72 usd
bov (most likely hks super sequential) 180 usd
turbonetics T40mm tial wastegate Evolution 204 usd
custom made stainless steel exhaust mani, most likely ceramic coated 200 cad
new plugs (heat stage 6) 75 usd
new wire set (blitz) 180 usd
skunk 2 intake mani 331 usd
a'pex auto timer with built in a/f monitor 90 usd
440 cc injectors 304 +40 for wire clips usd
in-tank fuel pump 275 usd
aem fuel rail 125 usd
aem fuel filter 89 usd
3" downpipe into 3" exhaust 400 cad
9.0:1 cr pistons(suggestions?)
eagle extreme duty H-Beam rods 300 usd
port/polish head (most likely done at home with buddy that's a machinist) 20 cad
new cam's was thinking skunk 2 stage 2 796 usd
clutchmaster's stage 1 clutch kit 355 usd
clutchmaster's aluminum flywheel 7.5 lbs (too light? what's a good weight?) 219 usd
all this crazy stuff on a 97ish (getting engine swap) b18c1 engine with lsd tranny (easier to just buy in parts?)
fpr req?
fuel pressure guage req?
total without pistons and engine swap and intercooler: 7953 usd... 10500 cad-ish... YIKES

i e-mailed the rev-hard site about the intercooler but they haven't mailed me back yet.. prolly cause it's a weekend.
as for the block and stuff, what do you guys suggest doing.. going to a scrap yard and ripping out a block from a wrecked gsr and parting up from there.. or doing the engine swap thing?

Yikes, a lot of stuff to go through on here. For starters, 2000 for a turbo is way too much to spend. Ball bearing turbos are overrated, plain and simple. Am I running one? Yes. Do I feel it helped with spool? Yes. Are you going to have a problem spooling a fairly small T3/TO4E that is non ball bearing? No. With that being said, go buy a T3/TO4E off cheapturbo.com and run with it. I'd stay away from turbonetics stuff, their customer service is shaky at best.

AEM EMS is good (don't know where you're gonna get it for 1650 Canadian though), don't waste your money on the boost control (AEM has one built in) don't waste your money on a turbo timer, don't waste your money on an autometer air/fuel gauge (it runs off the stock narrowband sensor, which is totally worthless for tuning your car or watching for a lean condition), GET AN OIL PRESSURE GAUGE AND A FUEL PRESSURE GAUGE! I would rank both of those ahead of boost pressure, as you can have the AEM datalog boost and set a parameter to pull timing and add fuel if boost spikes above X amount, so it isn't a critical gauge to have. You could tell the AEM to open a circuit thats connected to a little buzzer when oil pressure drops below X amount, but it would be easier to just run an oil pressure gauge and keep tabs on it.

For a wastegate i'd run a tial 38MM, they are better quality than turbonetics stuff. I don't know where the hell you are going to get a stainless steel turbo manifold that is ceramic coated for 200 bucks Canadian, but plan on budgeting around 450 bucks USD for a good cast mani like the inline pro. If you're going to get an intake manifold, go find a used victorX off of ebay or on another honda site or something, it's well worth it over the skunk2, which is basically an ITR intake. I'd run bigger injectors than 440's (especially if you're considering new pistons and rods, which tells me you want to make a lot more power than 440's can support), fuel pump sounds good (a walbro 255 works fine), fuel rail and filter are fine, 3" downpipe is good, for pistons every major maker is good, although my favorites are CP and wiseco. I wouldn't have your buddy hack up your head in his garage with a dremel, more than likely all he is going to accomplish is majorly hogging out your intake port, destroying all port velocity and swirl, and causing a hefty loss in low end power. If you want a ported head, take it to a professional porter, otherwise leave it stock, it'll make more power. Whatever you do, DO NOT get those cams. Yes, cams with a bit more duration than the stock Vtec cams work well with turbos and will make lots of power, but will the skunk2 stage 2 cams? NO! They have duration @ .050 of nearly 270 degrees, which means a ton of overlap, and likely lost power over stock GSR, ITR, or crower turbo cams. With that being said, keep the stock GSR's, and don't forget to spend money on valvetrain upgrades. Don't worry about getting a new flywheel, but it's hard to say on your clutch choice. I would probably recommend going with a more powerful clutch, but it's hard to save because you havn't listed a power goal. Some parts you are thinking of getting are telling me 400+ horsepower (IE: new pistons, rods, an AEM, etc) and then other parts tell me I just want a mild car (440's, clutch, IC, etc).

Since you're in Canada, if you're buying shit from the states, don't forget to include duty fees. Duty can be as high as 40% on some things, so it helps to buy stuff from in country if possible. My recommendation on how to set yourself out for a project is take the amount of time and money you think you're going to put into it, double it, and you should be set. Not trying to scare you, but things usually do end up costing you twice as much and taking twice as long as you originally set out for. With your list you didn't put in any of the small stuff that always nickle and dimes you to death. Shipping costs, taxes, small fittings, lines, hoses, labour, tuning, etc.

^^^^^-what he said.

oh, and I meant $15 for all four plugs. I've never heard of 4 plugs costing $75 before.

yeah wow... YIKES about says it all.. ok starting from the top...
if i were to go with a turbo from cheapturbo.com, say the .48 a/r turbine and .60 comp. housing.. what rpm would you say that would spool at?
i can find the aem ems on e-bay(god forbid) for 1650.. that's without shipping tho... for the boost control.. would there be any quick way to shift between low and high boost? say 7 psi to 15 at the touch of a button? the oil pressure guage sounds like a good idea, as does the fuel pressure guage.. but i'm prettymuch stuck on the boost guage (going love watching the thing hop up to 15 psi*situation permitting*) for tuning the ems.. i really hope i can find a GOOD tuner around these parts... import parts shops seem to be scarce.. so it doesn't look like it would be easy to find a good tuner.

you suggest a 38mm wastegate? i thought it was better to run a 40mm above 1 bar? for the manifold.. i'm going to have my buddy that used to work in a welding shop, and now works in a machine shop to build one for me, using some designs i got off the internet, the 200 was just a guess tho.. i need to find out how much it is going to cost to get it coated. intake manifold: will do research to see what you're talking about. for the injectors.. i didn't have much of a clue what size to use.. so i just threw out the 440cc number cause' that seemed to be the most common(please don't hate me) for the fuel pump/filter/rail that's cool. i read a diy. article on polishing, looked to be pretty easy.. i'm not going to do any enlarging, just clean out all the sharp little edges left on the head when it was constructed. again with the cams i don't have much idea what i'm talking about.. just tossed em in there because someone said i needed aftermarket cams(again.. please don't hate me). valvetrain upgrades would be the rods and springs? anything to do with seals as well? with the clutch i was hoping not to have to go with a 6 or less puck configuration, as it is too 'clunkey' i was hoping to stay with some sort of street performance that can hold a good amount of power. right now i'm not really at a hp goal... just kind of put together a really strong engine and go from there... 400+ hp is a HELL of a lot for a fwd car.. especially a light (relatively) integra. all the prices on the list are just for reference really, kind of figuring out how long it's going to take me to save up for all this stuff, since i start working full time in the summer with low cost living expenses (living at home w00t w00t) i was thinking i could have the engine by end of summer, maybe a bit more.

the time used to assemble the engine is not crucial, as my car will still be running when the block is ripped to pieces.. how does this work you ask? rebuilding engine when it's sitting on the stand in my garage :) after i've got as much as possible assembled, i'll o/c the car and drop the engine in.. hopefully the installation of the engine and turbo kit will take about 2 weeks of solid work on weekends and after work. i'm hoping that all of the labour will done by me, but the tuning is going to cost me a pretty penny, granted i can actually find a good one.

i really appreciate all your help, that was probably the most informational post directed towards me ever. again.. thanks

$15 for all plugs? really? all the sites i go to have em really pricey.. maybe i'm looking in the wrong place... maybe it's the temp. rating... who knows

ok, the time is coming to get serious about my turbo install.. here's what i'm thinking....
T3/T04 turbo (not too sure what brand yet)
27x6.5x3" rev hard stage 2 intercooler
aem ems
greddy profec-b boost controller
bov (most likely hks sequential)
wastegate (t40 or something like that.. can't remember, too tired)
aem cdi ignition system
custom made stainless steel exhaust mani, most likely ceramic coated
440 cc injectors
new plugs (not sure how much colder i have to go)
new wire set (still looking at which brand to go with)
jg edelbrock intake mani
a'pex auto timer with built in a/f monitor
whew this hurts my head
3" downpipe into either 3" exhaust or dual 2.25" exhaust
grounding kit required???
wow is that it? there's gotta be more.. oh right
9.0:1 cr pistons(suggestions?)
new rods (suggestions?)
port/polish head (most likely done at home with buddy that's a machinist)
new cam's with turbo configuration... still no idea which to get
random technology high flow cat (to stay somewhat close to street legal grr!!)
all this crazy stuff on a 97ish (getting engine swap) b18c1 engine
i'm sure i've messed up brutally somewhere... care to help me out anyone?



Help real quick and return th favor

skp that car looks pretty sweet... what do u want help with?

skp that car looks pretty sweet... what do u want help with?

i just need to sell it because i need the money the down payment for the shop my partner are opening within the next month. She has two other shops, St. Louis, and TX. and so here i wait.

hmm, was just looking... think it'd be a good idea to get a block guard?

yeah wow... YIKES about says it all.. ok starting from the top...
if i were to go with a turbo from cheapturbo.com, say the .48 a/r turbine and .60 comp. housing.. what rpm would you say that would spool at?

A .48 housing is going to start restricting power at the top end of a GSR powerband. I'd run a T3/TO4E 50 trim, with a .63 A/R exhaust housing. That would make full boost in the 3500-4000 range depending on timing/fuel, and pull hard right till redline.

i can find the aem ems on e-bay(god forbid) for 1650.. that's without shipping tho...

Are you sure that's canadian though? Don't forget to add duty either, I wouldn't be suprised to see 600 dollars in duty charges on that.

for the boost control.. would there be any quick way to shift between low and high boost? say 7 psi to 15 at the touch of a button?

Yes, you can rig up a button to switch from high/low boost, but an ever better method to use is having the AEM control boost based on gear/speed. When you're driving hard or at the strip, you should be more focused on keeping the car straight rather than fumbling for a buttom for more boost.

the oil pressure guage sounds like a good idea, as does the fuel pressure guage.. but i'm prettymuch stuck on the boost guage (going love watching the thing hop up to 15 psi*situation permitting*) for tuning the ems.. i really hope i can find a GOOD tuner around these parts... import parts shops seem to be scarce.. so it doesn't look like it would be easy to find a good tuner.

Yeah, that's fine with a boost gauge, I didn't say that you didn't need one, but I just think an oil pressure and fuel pressure gauge is more important than a boost gauge. What city are you from? The best place to go would be down to Torquefreaks, they're located in Portland, OR. By far the best AEM tuners around, their rates are fair, but if you had some extra cash Shaun will come up to your location and tune your car, at a rate of 750 per day.

you suggest a 38mm wastegate? i thought it was better to run a 40mm above 1 bar?

Tial 38's are proven to be a dead-reliable part, and the quality on them is impeccable. Turbonetics has produced some shitty stuff in the past (look at the deltagate) and their customer service is quite lacking, which is why I try and stay away from them.

for the manifold.. i'm going to have my buddy that used to work in a welding shop, and now works in a machine shop to build one for me, using some designs i got off the internet, the 200 was just a guess tho.. i need to find out how much it is going to cost to get it coated.

If your friend has not made many/any manifolds before, do not have him make you one! The biggest advantage you get from a stainless tubular manifold is the merge collector, contrary to what that boob who I got sick of arguing with in the other thread said. A merge collector smooths the transition of the exhaust gasses from each port, which keeps up velocity and makes the turbo spool quicker. If you have your friend make you one, I wouldn't have it made of anything but 321 stainless (which is pretty pricey) tig welded with a merge collector, if it's made of 304 stainless it's going to be prone to cracking with heat cycles, and if it's made of mild it's not going to be as strong as stainless. In your position, I would just go buy an inlinepro cast manifold, lots of people have made power with them, you can run a 3" DP and keep A/C, and it's a stout piece.

intake manifold: will do research to see what you're talking about. for the injectors.. i didn't have much of a clue what size to use.. so i just threw out the 440cc number cause' that seemed to be the most common(please don't hate me)

I'd go get some PTE 880CC injectors, all their injectors from 310-880 CC's are the same price, and since you're going to be running a good standalone you might as well go with the biggest ones so you don't run out of injector.

for the fuel pump/filter/rail that's cool. i read a diy. article on polishing, looked to be pretty easy.. i'm not going to do any enlarging, just clean out all the sharp little edges left on the head when it was constructed.

Ahh, that would be fine to just clean it up a little bit. I thought you were talking about really hogging it out before.

again with the cams i don't have much idea what i'm talking about.. just tossed em in there because someone said i needed aftermarket cams(again.. please don't hate me). valvetrain upgrades would be the rods and springs? anything to do with seals as well?

Nah, you don't really need aftermarket cams with a turbo setup. Crower makes some nice turbo cams, but for average joe they really arn't worth the cost. Valvetrain upgrades would be springs, retainers, and valve guides if yours are worn down, although they're cheap so you really don't have any reason not to replace them. Portflow has some nice packages, both their own and Ferra's package would be solid.

with the clutch i was hoping not to have to go with a 6 or less puck configuration, as it is too 'clunkey' i was hoping to stay with some sort of street performance that can hold a good amount of power.

To be honest, I really am not very knowledgeable with clutches, although you hardly see anyone running a lightweight flywheel with a turbo car, mainly because a heavier flywheel loads the motor better and it will boost quicker. For my clutch I just bit the bullet and got and RPS Carbon/Carbon that I found on ebay for 1100. They retail new for 1800, but they're totally rebuildable, will hold 1000+ HP (yea, I think i'm gonna make that with my honda :p) but the pedal feel is like stock.

right now i'm not really at a hp goal... just kind of put together a really strong engine and go from there... 400+ hp is a HELL of a lot for a fwd car.. especially a light (relatively) integra. all the prices on the list are just for reference really, kind of figuring out how long it's going to take me to save up for all this stuff, since i start working full time in the summer with low cost living expenses (living at home w00t w00t) i was thinking i could have the engine by end of summer, maybe a bit more.

Good plan, building a stout motor before you jump into the turbo stuff. That way you don't have to worry AS much about toasting your motor, as the new stuff will handle detonation better than stock pistons will.

the time used to assemble the engine is not crucial, as my car will still be running when the block is ripped to pieces.. how does this work you ask? rebuilding engine when it's sitting on the stand in my garage :) after i've got as much as possible assembled, i'll o/c the car and drop the engine in.. hopefully the installation of the engine and turbo kit will take about 2 weeks of solid work on weekends and after work. i'm hoping that all of the labour will done by me, but the tuning is going to cost me a pretty penny, granted i can actually find a good one.

i really appreciate all your help, that was probably the most informational post directed towards me ever. again.. thanks

Another good plan! I've had lots of friends who say "Oh yeah, i'm gonna pull the motor this week, parts should be here by next week and i'll be ready to go" and then their car ends up taking 3 months to finish :lol:

Good luck with your project!

A .48 housing is going to start restricting power at the top end of a GSR powerband. I'd run a T3/TO4E 50 trim, with a .63 A/R exhaust housing. That would make full boost in the 3500-4000 range depending on timing/fuel, and pull hard right till redline.ok cool.. this was the one on cheapturbo's i was looking at..
http://store.yahoo.com/cheapturbo/gart3to450tr.htmlAre you sure that's canadian though? Don't forget to add duty either, I wouldn't be suprised to see 600 dollars in duty charges on that.yep, i'm sure... but $600 for duty?? what the heck is duty anyway? would it be good if i had a connection down in the states to get it shipped to then just drive it across the border?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33596&item=2469302758Yes, you can rig up a button to switch from high/low boost, but an ever better method to use is having the AEM control boost based on gear/speed. When you're driving hard or at the strip, you should be more focused on keeping the car straight rather than fumbling for a buttom for more boost.i see... the idea of having the button would be so that i'm not driving under 15 psi the whole time.. burning a hole in my gas funds, only if some riced out smacktard thinks he's got something.. then i'll turn it up, or if i'm goin for a good hard drive... you know, it's just nice to have the optionWhat city are you from? The best place to go would be down to Torquefreaks, they're located in Portland, OR. By far the best AEM tuners around, their rates are fair, but if you had some extra cash Shaun will come up to your location and tune your car, at a rate of 750 per day.I'm in Kelowna BC, so it wouldn't be THAT far for him to go, but $750 a day?? are all tuners like that? does that include dyno time? he doesn't charge for driving up to the location does he?*cough cough* $750 is quite the chunk of change:2cents:Tial 38's are proven to be a dead-reliable part, and the quality on them is impeccable. Turbonetics has produced some shitty stuff in the past (look at the deltagate) and their customer service is quite lacking, which is why I try and stay away from them.i see, but what i think i really meant to say is that doesn't tial make a 40 mm wastegate? also, wouldn't that help flow a little better?If your friend has not made many/any manifolds before, do not have him make you one! The biggest advantage you get from a stainless tubular manifold is the merge collector, contrary to what that boob who I got sick of arguing with in the other thread said. A merge collector smooths the transition of the exhaust gasses from each port, which keeps up velocity and makes the turbo spool quicker. If you have your friend make you one, I wouldn't have it made of anything but 321 stainless (which is pretty pricey) tig welded with a merge collector, if it's made of 304 stainless it's going to be prone to cracking with heat cycles, and if it's made of mild it's not going to be as strong as stainless. In your position, I would just go buy an inlinepro cast manifold, lots of people have made power with them, you can run a 3" DP and keep A/C, and it's a stout piece.well, i don't have any a/c to start with, so i'm not too worried about that part... i've seen a few diy. pages on how to make manifolds, as well as that merge collector.. doesn't really look like it would be all that hard.. just have to find a tapered tube that goes down to the right diameter (2" say?) but by then he will have made one.. he's buying an old BEATER civic and he's gunna throw a nissan turbo on there, so he'll have SOME experience... but he knows what he's doing, he's the same as me... research for countless hours before starting any project. as for the inlinpro manifolds, don't those completely contradict what duplox said about flow angles? (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=201824&page=2)
just a thought.I'd go get some PTE 880CC injectors, all their injectors from 310-880 CC's are the same price, and since you're going to be running a good standalone you might as well go with the biggest ones so you don't run out of injector.880cc it is! just gotta find a vendor for em nowAhh, that would be fine to just clean it up a little bit. I thought you were talking about really hogging it out before.haha, no way, i wouldn't trust anyone with actually cutting away any of my precious head, just wanna get it to the max flow capacity for stock diameter.Nah, you don't really need aftermarket cams with a turbo setup. Crower makes some nice turbo cams, but for average joe they really arn't worth the cost. Valvetrain upgrades would be springs, retainers, and valve guides if yours are worn down, although they're cheap so you really don't have any reason not to replace them. Portflow has some nice packages, both their own and Ferra's package would be solid.i see, so i wouldn't need new valves? hmm, i'll check out those packages... do they have a manufacturer site?To be honest, I really am not very knowledgeable with clutches, although you hardly see anyone running a lightweight flywheel with a turbo car, mainly because a heavier flywheel loads the motor better and it will boost quicker. For my clutch I just bit the bullet and got and RPS Carbon/Carbon that I found on ebay for 1100. They retail new for 1800, but they're totally rebuildable, will hold 1000+ HP (yea, I think i'm gonna make that with my honda :p) but the pedal feel is like stock.yikes... that's quite a bit of cash for a clutch, i was looking more in the way of 500ish hp holding capacity.. that way i don't have to worry about anythingGood plan, building a stout motor before you jump into the turbo stuff. That way you don't have to worry AS much about toasting your motor, as the new stuff will handle detonation better than stock pistons will.well hopefully i won't be detonating at all eh? :biggrin:Another good plan! I've had lots of friends who say "Oh yeah, i'm gonna pull the motor this week, parts should be here by next week and i'll be ready to go" and then their car ends up taking 3 months to finish :lol: haha, sounds like a few friends of mine too, but i'm going to wait until i have all the parts before i drop it in the car, as it is my only way of transportation.. might have to take the bus for a few weeks.. that'll compell me to finish the project faster i suppose tho.. i LOOOAATTHEE public transport.. too many bad experiences

hmm, that seems to be it..

ok cool.. this was the one on cheapturbo's i was looking at..
http://store.yahoo.com/cheapturbo/gart3to450tr.htmlyep, i'm sure... but $600 for duty?? what the heck is duty anyway? would it be good if i had a connection down in the states to get it shipped to then just drive it across the boarder?

Yep, that turbo looks good. Duty is basically a tax Canada puts on importing goods from the states that you could potentially buy inside Canada, I guess to try and stimulate the Canadian economy. The only way you can get around duty is if the seller marks the goods as a gift, not as a purchase. The only problem is this is supposedly illegal although they really have no way to prove if it's a gift or not, and not all sellers will mark it as a gift.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33596&item=2469302758i see... the idea of having the button would be so that i'm not driving under 15 psi the whole time.. burning a hole in my gas funds, only if some riced out smacktard thinks he's got something.. then i'll turn it up, or if i'm goin for a good hard drive... you know, it's just nice to have the option

Yeah, I guess you could run it like that if you wanted to. All it takes is a toggle switch.

I'm in Kelowna BC, so it wouldn't be THAT far for him to go, but $750 a day?? are all tuners like that? does that include dyno time? he doesn't charge for driving up to the location does he?*cough cough* $750 is quite the chunk of change:2cents:

750 a day includes transportation up there, and tuning for the whole day. That doesn't include dyno time. A lot of the tuning he does is street tuning, driving on the street loads the motor more properly than on a dyno, and it really helps him nail down maps for low speed, idle, etc, and to get good mileage. If I were having him come up for tune I would probably book 3 or 4 hours of dyno time in the evening, and have him work out most of the stuff on the street beforehand.

i see, but what i think i really meant to say is that doesn't tial make a 40 mm wastegate? also, wouldn't that help flow a little better?

Yeah, tial makes a 40MM gate, but for a mild street setup it's pretty hard to justify the 150 dollar higher price over the 38.

well, i don't have any a/c to start with, so i'm not too worried about that part... i've seen a few diy. pages on how to make manifolds, as well as that merge collector.. doesn't really look like it would be all that hard.. just have to find a tapered tube that goes down to the right diameter (2" say?) but by then he will have made one.. he's buying an old BEATER civic and he's gunna throw a nissan turbo on there, so he'll have SOME experience... but he knows what he's doing, he's the same as me... research for countless hours before starting any project. as for the inlinpro manifolds, don't those completely contradict what duplox said about flow angles? (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=201824&page=2)

A merge collector is more than just some pipe that narrows down, to make one yourself it would be all but impossible unless you had a metal bandsaw, or maybe you could do it with a chop saw. (see http://www.carcraft.com/carcraft/techarticles/116_0304_merg_3_z.jpg)
About the flow angles bit, that isn't really an issue with the inline pro manifold, or really any turbo honda manifold. Most honda manifolds that are a "log" manifold dump straight into the collector, instead of flowing into a main pipe that leads to the collector, which is what you see on a lot of V8's and V6's (http://vecco.net/pop/Manifold_Jig_pop.JPG) that's the kind of header you want to try and avoid, but an inlinepro will do just fine.

just a thought.880cc it is! just gotta find a vendor for em now

If you're gonna order ANY pte stuff i'd talk to Art @ laskey racing, he'll put the magic touch on your turbo :D

haha, no way, i wouldn't trust anyone with actually cutting away any of my precious head, just wanna get it to the max flow capacity for stock diameter.i see, so i wouldn't need new valves? hmm, i'll check out those packages... do they have a manufacturer site?

www.portflow.com has their spring/retainer package and ferras spring/retainer package. You could go to some 1MM oversize valves, but it really isn't necisary.

yikes... that's quite a bit of cash for a clutch, i was looking more in the way of 500ish hp holding capacity..

Yeah my clutch is way way overkill, but I love the pedal feel. Here again about a clutch, i'd talk to the guys at laskey racing, tell em your goals and they'll set you up with something great.

that way i don't have to worry about anythingwell hopefully i won't be detonating at all eh? :biggrin:haha, sounds like a few friends of mine too, but i'm going to wait until i have all the parts before i drop it in the car, as it is my only way of transportation.. might have to take the bus for a few weeks.. that'll compell me to finish the project faster i suppose tho.. i LOOOAATTHEE public transport.. too many bad experiences

hmm, that seems to be it..

I agree with you, public transport sucks ass. I remember going to university, I couldn't afford to pay for parking at the U, so I paid some grandma to let me park at her house which was about 300M off campus :p

Yep, that turbo looks good. Duty is basically a tax Canada puts on importing goods from the states that you could potentially buy inside Canada, I guess to try and stimulate the Canadian economy. The only way you can get around duty is if the seller marks the goods as a gift, not as a purchase. The only problem is this is supposedly illegal although they really have no way to prove if it's a gift or not, and not all sellers will mark it as a gift.

hmm i see, so would it be a good idea to ask beforehad to see if they can mark it as a gift? is it very common for sellers to do it?750 a day includes transportation up there, and tuning for the whole day. That doesn't include dyno time. A lot of the tuning he does is street tuning, driving on the street loads the motor more properly than on a dyno, and it really helps him nail down maps for low speed, idle, etc, and to get good mileage. If I were having him come up for tune I would probably book 3 or 4 hours of dyno time in the evening, and have him work out most of the stuff on the street beforehand.i see, the only problem is, the only dyno around these parts is about an hour's drive away, what would i do in that situation? get him to tune it on the drive down there?A merge collector is more than just some pipe that narrows down, to make one yourself it would be all but impossible unless you had a metal bandsaw, or maybe you could do it with a chop saw. (see http://www.carcraft.com/carcraft/techarticles/116_0304_merg_3_z.jpg)
About the flow angles bit, that isn't really an issue with the inline pro manifold, or really any turbo honda manifold. Most honda manifolds that are a "log" manifold dump straight into the collector, instead of flowing into a main pipe that leads to the collector, which is what you see on a lot of V8's and V6's (http://vecco.net/pop/Manifold_Jig_pop.JPG) that's the kind of header you want to try and avoid, but an inlinepro will do just fine.yeah the merge collector could be tough, but not impossible.. i was looking at the of the manifold's from full-race.com and the merge collectors on those don't look tooooo complicated, just some good cutting of the pipes and good welding and i'm set.. right?If you're gonna order ANY pte stuff i'd talk to Art @ laskey racing, he'll put the magic touch on your turbo :Dyeah i think i'll get in touch with him, but not just yet, it's still going to be a while until i get this project up and running.. as i am still in school with a bank account of about $88 :lol: but as soon as summer rolls around, i'ma start gettin the cashflow going, so it won't be till at least august until i pick up my engine, even later until i start picking up my turbo and stuff.. no use getting everyone all excited then telling them they have to wait for another 4 monthswww.portflow.com (http://www.portflow.com) has their spring/retainer package and ferras spring/retainer package. You could go to some 1MM oversize valves, but it really isn't necisary.why is the portflow set so much cheaper than the ferras one? is it because of the titanium retainers?I agree with you, public transport sucks ass. I remember going to university, I couldn't afford to pay for parking at the U, so I paid some grandma to let me park at her house which was about 300M off campus :p
hahaha sweet deal:p we have free parking where i go.. it's a good deal, but then again, it's trade school, and there's all of 3 classrooms on the campus.:iceslolan

alright, it's a beautiful day out.. i gotta stop lazing around on my day off and get out and do something

what bore size do you suggest on the pistons? the Wiseco pistons i was looking at could go all the way from the stock 81mm bore to 85mm... think it would be best to stay with the stock bore size if i'm not doing anything to the block?

what bore size do you suggest on the pistons? the Wiseco pistons i was looking at could go all the way from the stock 81mm bore to 85mm... think it would be best to stay with the stock bore size if i'm not doing anything to the block?

The biggest you can run without sleeving is generally accepted as .5MM over, although some people have gone to 82MM. If there isn't much/any wear on the cylinder walls you can go with another 81MM piston, but IMO you might as well go with 81.5 to make sure everything is dandy.

i see.. all the the wiseco pistons i'm looking at are either an 8.8:1 or a 9.7:1... i'd most likely go with the 8.8 if i had to, but is there any with a solid 9?

i see.. all the the wiseco pistons i'm looking at are either an 8.8:1 or a 9.7:1... i'd most likely go with the 8.8 if i had to, but is there any with a solid 9?

CP makes a straight up 9:1 piston, but if you can get a good deal on the 8.8:1 wiseco's go for it. Everybody says to go with higher compression because you'll have more low end, but I noticed no difference going from 81MM 9.7:1 JE's to some custom 8.5:1 wiseco's.

i see.. i haven't been able to find any prices on the CP pistons, but it looks like the wiseco's go for around 449 usd... i'll keep looking