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Just won't start !!


95olds
03-12-2004, 03:52 PM
I have a 95` Olds 88, for some reason the car doesn't always start up. I turn the ignition all the way and I get no response. All of the warning lights come on and the interior lights come on, i can also hear the fuel pump running however the car just will not start. After letting it sit for 2 or 3 minutes the car starts right back up as if nothing happened. If anyone has any idea as to what the problem is feel free to reply or send me an email @.... jesheppa@uncc.edu !

87delta88
03-13-2004, 01:22 AM
I have a 95` Olds 88, for some reason the car doesn't always start up. I turn the ignition all the way and I get no response. All of the warning lights come on and the interior lights come on, i can also hear the fuel pump running however the car just will not start. After letting it sit for 2 or 3 minutes the car starts right back up as if nothing happened. If anyone has any idea as to what the problem is feel free to reply or send me an email @.... jesheppa@uncc.edu !
Check/clean your battery connections. If either one are loose or badly corroded, it could prevent you from starting.

R_ACE1
03-13-2004, 11:35 AM
It might be your ingition goin bad...

joyce korus
03-22-2004, 03:08 PM
Hi, Im new today 3/21/04 and I have a 1995 '88 LSS. Problem like yours. Although it happens about twice a week. Car cranks good, but wont start. If I wait 1/2 hr. or less, it starts!!! HELP us someone. I have already had the ignition module replaced last week for 175 bucks and its still doing it! Hate to say it, but I'm a woman and have talked to two mechanics and no one seems to know what is going on! Thanks everyone.

joyce korus
03-22-2004, 03:10 PM
Hi, I'm new today to the forum. Have a 1995 '88 LSS which decides not to start about twice a week! If I wait 1/2 or less, it starts! Had ignition module replaced last week for 175 and did not help. Im a woman and spoke with two mechanics who don't know what's going on. HELP someone please!
Thank you all.

Creative
04-07-2004, 02:51 AM
Ok did they replace the whole coil pack age bottom module and all ?? or just the top side coils ?? could be a bad ground on the module it self ... simple as removeing it and sanding the bottom and engine mounts of all the corrosion ((( common when you have an Aluminum to Aluminum contact, Aluminum Oxide is an awsome insutaltor )) and this will not cause the service light to come on ....

A quick test with out much work to see if this is the problem is to use a screw driver and scrape the side of the module and expose clean aluminum and when the car won't start (( usally when it's cold or damp out )) get a peice of wire and use it to jumper the clean exposed Aluminum to a Good ground (( battery post )) and have some one try starting it ...... ((( you can do this at home so long as you keep your fingers away from moving objects .. ))

ddexter
04-11-2004, 08:43 PM
I've had this issue for over a year. Finally I read the manual - if the key is not recognized by the ignition, then the security system on the car shuts off the starter and the fuel pump. This is a *feature* to prevent someone from stealing the auto if they had a big ring of keys.

No - I haven't figured out how to fix it yet. And the car is only worth $1000 (if I'm lucky) so taking it to the dealer would probably cost way too much.

ddexter
04-11-2004, 08:45 PM
Oh - sorry to follow up my own post. The security system will let you try to start the car again in three minutes. So I sit there, and wait, and try not to grind my teeth.

auto trainy
04-14-2004, 06:40 PM
Oh - sorry to follow up my own post. The security system will let you try to start the car again in three minutes. So I sit there, and wait, and try not to grind my teeth.


I have two 88s and one is a 1998,my wife complained that a couple of times the car would not start for her and a friend (service mgr) said its very common for the wires on the ignition switch to wear out from movement so it was replaced and the problem went away.

Creative
04-16-2004, 12:22 AM
Well it's only a GM pass key system ... you need to measure the resistor on the key (( little silver contacts in the black plastic )) and place a resistor on that line ... (( don't remember the wire colors but when I find my remote car starter book i'll post it here because you have to bypass it for the starter to work .......

wierd1001
04-16-2004, 09:09 PM
Well it's only a GM pass key system ... you need to measure the resistor on the key (( little silver contacts in the black plastic )) and place a resistor on that line ... (( don't remember the wire colors but when I find my remote car starter book i'll post it here because you have to bypass it for the starter to work .......


The Wires you are looking for are in an orange tube. Do not mistake this for a yellow tube as that is for the SIR or airbag circuit. there are 2 white wires inside of it. What you need to do is take a multimeter and touch the 2 points to both sides of the bullet on the key. it will give you an ohms reading. Then you turn the key over and do it again and take the average. once youve found that value, take a resistor within 10% of that value and cut one of those white wires (or both? its been a while) and just jump the wires with the resistor. I install remote starters for a living but its been so long since I did it the old fashioned way. we use bypass modules now. That will bypass your security in your key that is probably causing your problem. Either that, or try using another key for the car and see if that changes anything. If that still doesnt work, your contacts for your VATS or Passkey security have worn out in your ignition cylinder itself, and it will need to be replaced.

ponchonutty
04-18-2004, 10:11 PM
The Wires you are looking for are in an orange tube. Do not mistake this for a yellow tube as that is for the SIR or airbag circuit. there are 2 white wires inside of it. What you need to do is take a multimeter and touch the 2 points to both sides of the bullet on the key. it will give you an ohms reading. Then you turn the key over and do it again and take the average. once youve found that value, take a resistor within 10% of that value and cut one of those white wires (or both? its been a while) and just jump the wires with the resistor. I install remote starters for a living but its been so long since I did it the old fashioned way. we use bypass modules now. That will bypass your security in your key that is probably causing your problem. Either that, or try using another key for the car and see if that changes anything. If that still doesnt work, your contacts for your VATS or Passkey security have worn out in your ignition cylinder itself, and it will need to be replaced.
He's about right. I also do remote starters too. Anyway, the problem with the VATS system isn't the keys it is the cyl. lock. Those tiny wires go up into the column and have to turn each time you start the car. This makes the wires break or ground out over time. The permanet fix is to do what is stated above. You can also get the resistance value by doing a search on the web on this. Somewhere I found a site that would tell you the value based on the small number stamped on your ignition key.

mvinkler
04-20-2004, 05:11 PM
Guys I just posted a new thread with a similar starting problem but I found my key (that measured 1.86k) doesn't seem to be the problem, as if I tape one contact the security light blinks so you know you have a key read error. If the security light blinks ok, solder in a resistor otherwise read my new post and see if you've seen my problem???
mvinkler

denimsway
05-07-2004, 01:05 PM
HAS ANYONE WITH THIS PROBLEM BEEN ABLE TO FIND A SOLUTION? i HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM WITH MY 1997 OLDSMOBILE 88 AND THIS HAS BEEN GOING ON FOR A YEAR NOW. I CAN'T FIND ANYONE TO FIX IT. PLEASE HELP. EMAIL ME AT DENIMSWAY@ALLTEL.NET THANKS FOR YOUR TIME AND HELP!

hallrx
06-06-2004, 04:41 PM
Had some very frustrating problems with my 1997 Olds 88. Would stall for no apparent reason and not restart (and the windows, seat nor the locks would work). Wait a bit (10 minutes to 3 days) then it would start as if nothing were wrong. Had no fuel pressure when it wouldn't start. Changed fuel pump and sending unit. Continued to have problems that worsened. When we hit the power lock or the power window, it would die and not start. Found the schematics and found all 3 systems go through the same splice and ground. Dug it out from under the carpet (which the pad under the carpet was wet), added another wire from the splice to the ground and Voila! no more problems. Each of your problems has something in common and it took me over a year to put this problem together. Keep looking!

mvinkler
06-06-2004, 09:42 PM
In my case it was the PCM. I swapped it with a friends 95 olds and the problem followed the PCM. I purchased a refurbished one from Advance-Auto for 99.00 , swapped the prom and I'm back up and running!!!
For those of you who don't know, the PCM is behind the glovebox. It has 3 big connectors (red, white, and blue). You remove the cover under the glovebox and it clips into a plastic holder. 95 was a bad year as they weren't OBDII compliant. Even though the connector looks like the new OBDIIs it won't talk to a standard code reader. Good Luck All.

calab_guy
06-27-2004, 09:02 PM
Hi, I'm new today to the forum. Have a 1995 '88 LSS which decides not to start about twice a week! If I wait 1/2 or less, it starts! Had ignition module replaced last week for 175 and did not help. Im a woman and spoke with two mechanics who don't know what's going on. HELP someone please!
Thank you all.

had the same problem and after chaning starter, cleaning battery checking ignition and all that i took it to an person fwho specials in auto electrics it was the starter relay and ciruit there is a gm tsb on this

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